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I finally trimmed off the remaining weed barrier and filled in the dirt around the patio section
I am considering making some sort of beauty panels for the back and front open area of the cabinet. I would probably install some blocks around the outer opening and maybe use some earth magnets to make them removable.
Fully closed. It doesn’t blend as well as I figured into the area right now but hopefully as it turns gray over time it will blend in more.
Also got around to doing my yearly trimming. The damn tree in my front bed keeps growing so much each year. Either going to need to switch to trimming it twice a year or something. For this year I ended up wacking it back in the chainsaw.
Cabinet turned out great, but those shims look aweful. Just kidding. As Sam said, leave it as is. You don't need no beauty panels! That thing is impressive. Good job!
Awesome work man! That cabinet turned out awesome!
What beauty panels are you talking about? I'd leave it as is, that's something you should be proud of!
Also, just cut that tree down lol.
Thank you. No the tree is staying. It will grow back just fine just hopefully a bit shorter this time around.
Originally Posted by BreezyTL
Cabinet turned out great, but those shims look aweful. Just kidding. As Sam said, leave it as is. You don't need no beauty panels! That thing is impressive. Good job!
So when is the A-zine meet at your place?
Thank you.
Originally Posted by 00TL-P3.2
Fantastic work & looks excellent.
Great choice for video for the first tests
Yeah it made for a great test cause I could finish up a few things and clean up and not be too worried about missing action.
As far as the beautfy panels I am referring to they would be in the opening of the cabinet. They would not just be beauty panels but also serve the purpose of keeping leaves and pine needs from falling into the cabinet as easily.
They would go in these three very open areas of the cabinet and come in so only about 1in away from the TV. The front might have to be a little further away since currently the TV mounts at a slight downward angle. Not sure if I can adjust it so that isn't there.
It would look something like this which is the first cabinet I had ever seen in person at a restaurant a week ago. Funny that I actually saw another lift cabinet about a week before I finished mine when I had never seen another one in person in my life.
I don't mind dirty as long as I was involved in making it that way.
Beauty panels might be more functional than you think with fall leaves, as Sam said.
Could you screw some blocks on the inside of the top frame then make a top with a slot routered into it for the TV and Mount to clear. This "top" would sit flush with the top of the cabinet so it won't interfere with the closed cover.
Could you screw some blocks on the inside of the top frame then make a top with a slot routered into it for the TV and Mount to clear. This "top" would sit flush with the top of the cabinet so it won't interfere with the closed cover.
Blocks screwed on the inside of the frame is the plan but the cut out would have to be fairly big for the TV which is why I am leaning towards three seperate pieces. Originally I was thinking of just doing the front but them when I saw how much space there was in the back I figured that might be a good idea as well. I think if I just get a cedar 1x8x10 I should have enough to do everything out of one piece and also keep myself from having to do any glueups as well.
Blocks screwed on the inside of the frame is the plan but the cut out would have to be fairly big for the TV which is why I am leaning towards three seperate pieces. Originally I was thinking of just doing the front but them when I saw how much space there was in the back I figured that might be a good idea as well. I think if I just get a cedar 1x8x10 I should have enough to do everything out of one piece and also keep myself from having to do any glueups as well.
Don't half ass the top now. Something to match the sides would set it off that much better.
I apologize if you mentioned this before. Does the stand rise by a remote? If so, it is suppose to be a hands-free station. The top should be stationary or set-in and still allow the TV to lift up.
Don't half ass the top now. Something to match the sides would set it off that much better.
Fair enough. Something similar to the picture of the other one I showed is probably what I would do. Again with the fact the TV hangs at a slight downward agle I would not be able to get as close as they do. Also the lift design they used is different as well.
Originally Posted by BreezyTL
I apologize if you mentioned this before. Does the stand rise by a remote? If so, it is suppose to be a hands-free station. The top should be stationary or set-in and still allow the TV to lift up.
The stand has a wired and wireless RF remote. Obviously being outside I leave the wired remote inside the cabinet. The RF remote is what I use. The system also has an option IR sender/receiver that can be programmed to universal remotes. When I found out about this I ordered a Harmony Hub to use. Unfortunately, I have not been able to get this to work yet. The long term plan was to use that and then once it is programmed into the Harmony Hub I could create routines for automation in SmartThings to control the setup all at once.
I also have realized one other issue in my build that I had not noticed earlier. might be the angle of my pictures but I think I made my lid lip too thick. It appears to hang over the top set of bolts which means if something were to break on the lift I have no way to get the side panels off to get access to the inside.
Fair enough. Something similar to the picture of the other one I showed is probably what I would do. Again with the fact the TV hangs at a slight downward agle I would not be able to get as close as they do. Also the lift design they used is different as well.
The stand has a wired and wireless RF remote. Obviously being outside I leave the wired remote inside the cabinet. The RF remote is what I use. The system also has an option IR sender/receiver that can be programmed to universal remotes. When I found out about this I ordered a Harmony Hub to use. Unfortunately, I have not been able to get this to work yet. The long term plan was to use that and then once it is programmed into the Harmony Hub I could create routines for automation in SmartThings to control the setup all at once.
I also have realized one other issue in my build that I had not noticed earlier. might be the angle of my pictures but I think I made my lid lip too thick. It appears to hang over the top set of bolts which means if something were to break on the lift I have no way to get the side panels off to get access to the inside.
Just givin ya a hard time. Didn't realize it was on an angle. Then yes, your way will have to do. I'd love to see this thing in person. I feel pictures cut back on the detail. Should start making them and selling them!
Just givin ya a hard time. Didn't realize it was on an angle. Then yes, your way will have to do. I'd love to see this thing in person. I feel pictures cut back on the detail. Should start making them and selling them!
No worries. Come by and check it out some time. It definitely has a finish quality closer to when I built my kegorator than say my egg table.
I have thought about it with everything I had made my only concern with all my projects is how I would keep them on budget to be profitable. When I have built all of these things I start out with a budget but as I go along come up with design changes and what not and that budget seems to go out the window somewhat. There are lots of companies out there that makes these already but the ones for use outside are fairly expensive. Some of those do use more robust lift systems though. That being said this would probably be the easiest and quickest to make item I have designed so far when you consider just the cabinet and not all the other work I have done for the project. Commerical sold designs for interior range anywhere from $1600 to $5000+ and outdoor ones I have not really seen cost less thant $3000 and go all the way up to $10,000.
I didn't use the permanent screw mount yet because I want to make sure for a few weeks I get consistantantly solid singal with the UniFi UAP-AC-M. Right now I am getting anywhere from 18-38MB/s according to the Roku Ultra Connection test. I am not sure how accurate that is cause even with only getting 18 when I use stats for nerds inside YouTubeTV it shows anywhere from 20-26000kbps. If I end up with consistant issue I will either switch to the UniFi UAP-AC-M-PRO which is rated as much more powerful or maybe get a second UniFi UAP-AC-M and run it in bridge mode and hardwire the the Roku Ultra off it. I want to make sure I have good enough signal for 4k since they are broadcasting all Thursday night football and one college game a week on the Fox App in 4k the rest of the year.
No been super busy either enjoy the nice whether outside using the TV and with other things going on that I haven't gotten to start any work on that. Most likely won't begin design work on that till November at the earliest. Still need to get a cover order for it as well.
you getting something custom or you getting an NFL Dolphins grill cover that'll fit?
Custom made out of heavy duty vinyl. Found several sitres online that build custom ones. They almost make a lot of covers for generators and outdoors power equipment.
Took the tarp off today after the rain we had all day yesterday. Tarps are not water proof. Everything was wet again. Actually I am worried about rust. Need to get my cover ordered ASAP. Will cover the top for the next week with some plastic sheeting I have for floor protection when painting and then put the tarp over that. At least it will cover the top from letting in water and since the sides the water can run off they should be fine with just the tarp.
I also think I am going to get a bucket of this to keep inside the cabinet for moisture.
Took the tarp off today after the rain we had all day yesterday. Tarps are not water proof. Everything was wet again. Actually I am worried about rust. Need to get my cover ordered ASAP. Will cover the top for the next week with some plastic sheeting I have for floor protection when painting and then put the tarp over that. At least it will cover the top from letting in water and since the sides the water can run off they should be fine with just the tarp.
I also think I am going to get a bucket of this to keep inside the cabinet for moisture.
I was going to ask you want you planned on doing when the temps change and things inside sweat. Curious to see what it looks like after the snow is gone in the spring.
I was going to ask you want you planned on doing when the temps change and things inside sweat. Curious to see what it looks like after the snow is gone in the spring.
I have an outdoor TV under my porch year round with no problems. You mean just cause it is inside a wood cabinet vs being exposed to the air? With moisture bucket I think that will help. Hopefully just change them out every 6-12 months. Another idea I have had is to cut two dryer vent size holes in the bottom and build a mesh screen and washable filter mount for each one. I would have to make them almost flush mount though as the TV comes within less than 1in of the bottom of the cabinet when down.
First priority though is to stop letting water in.
I didn't even think of the changing seasons, shit...
stupid question or maybe idea but have you considered building an even bigger structure over it?
So there's a roof to take the brunt of the elements and protect your work of art? Maybe even big
enough to hang some all weather marine speakers and or provide shelter for a couple of chairs to be scooted
close to the TV in case you're in the middle of watching a game and the rain starts coming down?