Well, the TSX needed new wheels....ISF is back (Page 64)
#1161
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
damnit reading your post I was hoping you were onto something I might have missed and then I read the last part
#1162
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
this was the prototype... dunno what might have changed... but if you don't have the clamp, maybe that is the source of your fitment issue... the clamp helps you adjust how the pipe lines up to the muffler and how it will sit once everything is tightened down...
in the latest version, you should NOT have the pipes crushed near the x where it sits above the crossbrace... (driver side IIRC)
in the latest version, you should NOT have the pipes crushed near the x where it sits above the crossbrace... (driver side IIRC)
#1163
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
I hate it when they do that, although it is strange that GM would not list the specifics for that assembly. This may be one of those things where the customer has to either call/visit a local dealership, parts printout in hand, and have the wizards there explain it.
lol, I tried. This could very well be related to the 'crunching' noise you mentioned. Those initial pictures you posted on page 28 show that it has been going on for a while. Not knowing how much lubricant is embedded within that assembly, it may be prudent and bite the bullet to put further investigation of this, with either the dealer or a respectable comparison, higher on your 'to do' list. It would be a hell of a note to be stranded somewhere on one of your 'long hauls' as a result of this thing 'shitting the bed' miles from home.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
#1164
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
I wonder though, Jason...
if it was too tight for you, that might just be residual lube slinging out...I would be shocked it if was your groan or whatever.
What fluid did you end up using in your rear diff? I'm thinking I should do mine sooner than later.
if it was too tight for you, that might just be residual lube slinging out...I would be shocked it if was your groan or whatever.
What fluid did you end up using in your rear diff? I'm thinking I should do mine sooner than later.
#1165
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
I used the stock fluid that already includes the friction additive
#1166
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
Nice, I've been reading up on using amsoil or maybe redline...pretty sure I did 75W90 or something redline on the S2000.
You did notice that I said Jastin, right? Kinda of a poke at calling you Justin the other day? I was like, damn...wonder if he thought I forgot again.
You did notice that I said Jastin, right? Kinda of a poke at calling you Justin the other day? I was like, damn...wonder if he thought I forgot again.
#1167
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
totally missed that one
#1168
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
LOL...no kidding.
Well, I'm very happy you're happy with your exhaust, man.
Hmmm...I just got an idea, what about wiring in the QTP on the Corsa piping before the clamp! genius!
I love your set up now...that's insane. There's no way your girlfriend would have not noticed that beastly sound.
Well, I'm very happy you're happy with your exhaust, man.
Hmmm...I just got an idea, what about wiring in the QTP on the Corsa piping before the clamp! genius!
I love your set up now...that's insane. There's no way your girlfriend would have not noticed that beastly sound.
#1169
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Reexamining the pics above, in the first, you can see what appears to be centrifugally excreted lube residue at the two holes between the retainer bolts. It appears again in the second picture along with an area of dark residue on the retainer bolt side itself at the edge. Both of which, more or less, correspond with the patterns on the exhaust shielding.
I would like to know if this diff. coupler part is a self-contained unit with a heavy grease compound lubricating the ball bearings as they sit in their retainment cage vs. it being fed with diff. fluid from the case where the fluid is changed? Looking at the part diagram, my guess is that it is self-contained, and the now cleaned flung residue is the heavy grease compound, kind of like axel grease for a CV Joint And perhaps, like a CV joint that starts to 'click' as it wears without enough lube, he hears an occasional groan when the right amount of flexion occurs, if any.
I would like to know if this diff. coupler part is a self-contained unit with a heavy grease compound lubricating the ball bearings as they sit in their retainment cage vs. it being fed with diff. fluid from the case where the fluid is changed? Looking at the part diagram, my guess is that it is self-contained, and the now cleaned flung residue is the heavy grease compound, kind of like axel grease for a CV Joint And perhaps, like a CV joint that starts to 'click' as it wears without enough lube, he hears an occasional groan when the right amount of flexion occurs, if any.
Last edited by zeta; 10-03-2016 at 08:05 PM.
#1170
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
This and only this:
ACDelco 10-4034 Dexron LS 75W-90 Gear Oil
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-40.../dp/B008BZS6J8
ACDelco 10-4034 Dexron LS 75W-90 Gear Oil
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-40.../dp/B008BZS6J8
The following users liked this post:
juniorbean (10-04-2016)
#1171
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
I have been trying to tell him that Majofo everytime he asks but he wants to use the new fangled redline stuff. He doesn't understand that possible implications.
The following users liked this post:
rockstar143 (10-04-2016)
#1172
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
LOL...no kidding.
Well, I'm very happy you're happy with your exhaust, man.
Hmmm...I just got an idea, what about wiring in the QTP on the Corsa piping before the clamp! genius!
I love your set up now...that's insane. There's no way your girlfriend would have not noticed that beastly sound.
Well, I'm very happy you're happy with your exhaust, man.
Hmmm...I just got an idea, what about wiring in the QTP on the Corsa piping before the clamp! genius!
I love your set up now...that's insane. There's no way your girlfriend would have not noticed that beastly sound.
I really don't think she would have known if I had the valves shut. When you start the car with the valves shut it makes even less noise than the Corsa.
The following users liked this post:
rockstar143 (10-04-2016)
#1173
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
I hate it when they do that, although it is strange that GM would not list the specifics for that assembly. This may be one of those things where the customer has to either call/visit a local dealership, parts printout in hand, and have the wizards there explain it.
lol, I tried. This could very well be related to the 'crunching' noise you mentioned. Those initial pictures you posted on page 28 show that it has been going on for a while. Not knowing how much lubricant is embedded within that assembly, it may be prudent and bite the bullet to put further investigation of this, with either the dealer or a respectable comparison, higher on your 'to do' list. It would be a hell of a note to be stranded somewhere on one of your 'long hauls' as a result of this thing 'shitting the bed' miles from home.
Good Luck!
lol, I tried. This could very well be related to the 'crunching' noise you mentioned. Those initial pictures you posted on page 28 show that it has been going on for a while. Not knowing how much lubricant is embedded within that assembly, it may be prudent and bite the bullet to put further investigation of this, with either the dealer or a respectable comparison, higher on your 'to do' list. It would be a hell of a note to be stranded somewhere on one of your 'long hauls' as a result of this thing 'shitting the bed' miles from home.
Good Luck!
Reexamining the pics above, in the first, you can see what appears to be centrifugally excreted lube residue at the two holes between the retainer bolts. It appears again in the second picture along with an area of dark residue on the retainer bolt side itself at the edge. Both of which, more or less, correspond with the patterns on the exhaust shielding.
I would like to know if this diff. coupler part is a self-contained unit with a heavy grease compound lubricating the ball bearings as they sit in their retainment cage vs. it being fed with diff. fluid from the case where the fluid is changed? Looking at the part diagram, my guess is that it is self-contained, and the now cleaned flung residue is the heavy grease compound, kind of like axel grease for a CV Joint And perhaps, like a CV joint that starts to 'click' as it wears without enough lube, he hears an occasional groan when the right amount of flexion occurs, if any.
I would like to know if this diff. coupler part is a self-contained unit with a heavy grease compound lubricating the ball bearings as they sit in their retainment cage vs. it being fed with diff. fluid from the case where the fluid is changed? Looking at the part diagram, my guess is that it is self-contained, and the now cleaned flung residue is the heavy grease compound, kind of like axel grease for a CV Joint And perhaps, like a CV joint that starts to 'click' as it wears without enough lube, he hears an occasional groan when the right amount of flexion occurs, if any.
#1174
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
So I opened a case with Meisterschaft last night regarding the fitment issues I am having. Sent them a ton of pictures as well. Hope they will be able to help me figure it out them.
#1176
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
Nope I still have issues where the outer most hanger on both mufflers is full pressed against the exhaust hanger bracket on the car. Also the coupler for the muffler to the xpipe rubs on the rear diff case sometimes. I am not as worried about that one as I am the hanger. The hanger I believe is causing me to have an annoying rattle. It is almost like I need a way to drop the exhaust by about 1/4-3/8in.
Yes quarts is enough cause it only takes about 1.5qts. Also you will need one of this to fill it if you don't already have one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQW5LK/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1DSJZKDZY2E4B Z549T9A&th=1
Yes quarts is enough cause it only takes about 1.5qts. Also you will need one of this to fill it if you don't already have one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQW5LK/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1DSJZKDZY2E4B Z549T9A&th=1
#1177
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
Thanks Jason...
I appreciate it. Yeah, I have one.
Oh wow...yeah, that would be super annoying...on the first S2000 I recall having to get creative to get the piping away from the diff and lower control arm rubbing.
I'm sure you'll get it figured out. I wonder how they'd address it.
I appreciate it. Yeah, I have one.
Oh wow...yeah, that would be super annoying...on the first S2000 I recall having to get creative to get the piping away from the diff and lower control arm rubbing.
I'm sure you'll get it figured out. I wonder how they'd address it.
#1178
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Yeah I definitely need to get it taken care of sooner than later. I have two more 1k mile trips planned before the end of the year and do not want to be stranded on either of them or especially have the Vagon towed.
I am hoping it is self contained and not fed by the diff. Most of what I found seems to be a thick grease compound but I did find some stuff in the same area that smelled like the GM diff fluid.
I am hoping it is self contained and not fed by the diff. Most of what I found seems to be a thick grease compound but I did find some stuff in the same area that smelled like the GM diff fluid.
#1180
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
I agree. I was like 'Oh, that's why I can't find the driveshaft either'. For some reason the part is /vin# dependant. Probably because it's a known issue, based on year, and they need that specific info. to send out the correct coupling and driveshaft. Perhaps based on length,hehe
Next time you are under yours, please get some pics for comparison.
Next time you are under yours, please get some pics for comparison.
Last edited by zeta; 10-04-2016 at 07:38 AM.
#1184
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
FYI, I just got off the phone with a local Caddy dealer. The parts person there stated that they could not determine the exact part # for the Automatic Vagon diff. coupling without the VIN#. He stated that dependent on the VIN for your vehicle you may have to buy the driveshaft as well and that is why the on-line parts diagram(s) do not show a specific listing. I also looked for the driveshaft online and could not find it specifically. So, that seems to explain why the part # info is missing, gotta deal with the dealer.
I agree. I was like 'Oh, that's why I can't find the driveshaft either'. For some reason the part is /vin# dependant. Probably because it's a known issue, based on year, and they need that specific info. to send out the correct coupling and driveshaft. Perhaps based on length,hehe
Next time you are under yours, please get some pics for comparison.
Next time you are under yours, please get some pics for comparison.
#1185
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
Everything was lose when I first hooked everything up. I did have to make sure the mufflers sat a little further back to clear my sway bar but the hanger on the muffler hitting the mount on the car was an issue from the start. It was even causing an issue just to get the metal hanger into the rubber hanger cause it was blocking me from raising the muffler high enough to get it into the hole. Yes I am sure many comments will be made about that statement.
#1186
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (5)
i always found that with muffler/exhaust work, sometimes you just need to bend the hanger a little to get it to fit right... (even with OEM replacements)
so get out some vise grips and try to bend it... if you don't want to scratch the pretty metal, wrap it in electrical tape before you clamp the vise on....
so get out some vise grips and try to bend it... if you don't want to scratch the pretty metal, wrap it in electrical tape before you clamp the vise on....
#1187
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
Only thing I have not tried is removing the new sway bar and then losening everything up. It is possible that the mufflers need to sit so far back to not hit anything I guess that it would cause them to make contact with my new larger sway bar.
#1188
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Did you try cutting the hanger?
The following users liked this post:
RPhilMan1 (10-04-2016)
#1189
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
I agree. On the other hand, if you think about the function of it (the coupler and the connecting drive shaft) there are a lot of balancing/harmonic vibration considerations, to take into account for longevity and safety issues. I would speculate that GM made the coupler 'non-serviceable' for the reasons you mention and for overall safety due to the speeds the coupler/driveshaft rotate and the torque loads associated with getting an awesome 2 ton beast up and ready to play. The one thing a forgot to ask the dealership wizard was how much $ there part would cost.
#1191
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
I do want to make it to one you go to though so I can have you drive it just for the piece of mind of seeing if everything is the way it should be since I have never been in another Vagon.
The following users liked this post:
juniorbean (10-04-2016)
#1192
Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Dirty H-Town, Amerikkka
Posts: 28,432
Received 7,772 Likes
on
5,045 Posts
i always found that with muffler/exhaust work, sometimes you just need to bend the hanger a little to get it to fit right... (even with OEM replacements)
so get out some vise grips and try to bend it... if you don't want to scratch the pretty metal, wrap it in electrical tape before you clamp the vise on....
so get out some vise grips and try to bend it... if you don't want to scratch the pretty metal, wrap it in electrical tape before you clamp the vise on....
I just went through that with the shiny fart cannons on my mommywagon. Well, more accurately, the guy at the exhaust shop did. Because my dainty little girly hands can't get dirty and I couldn't install it myself. But yeah. Even though the kit came having been test fitted on an (in theory) identical car, he ended up needing to beat the muffler hangers into submission to get the tips away from the valance. And they're still not "correctly" aligned in the cutouts.
According to muffler guy, that's totally common.
So, maybe you need to:
#1193
Senior Moderator
Dat exhaust
If you bought longer rubber hangers would that help fix it? Most auto parts stores sell different size/strength/length hangers. Stop by with one of yours and look for some slightly different in the way you need??
They used QTP cutouts? How quickly do they open? Is the remote the only way to open the valves?
If you bought longer rubber hangers would that help fix it? Most auto parts stores sell different size/strength/length hangers. Stop by with one of yours and look for some slightly different in the way you need??
They used QTP cutouts? How quickly do they open? Is the remote the only way to open the valves?
#1195
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
Dat exhaust
If you bought longer rubber hangers would that help fix it? Most auto parts stores sell different size/strength/length hangers. Stop by with one of yours and look for some slightly different in the way you need??
They used QTP cutouts? How quickly do they open? Is the remote the only way to open the valves?
If you bought longer rubber hangers would that help fix it? Most auto parts stores sell different size/strength/length hangers. Stop by with one of yours and look for some slightly different in the way you need??
They used QTP cutouts? How quickly do they open? Is the remote the only way to open the valves?
I am definitely going to do that. You need to use two buttons though. There is a seperate button for open and close. So probably going to use the left for one and the right for the other and use the middle for my garage door.
#1197
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
Around town yes I will be running it completely open all the time. I only wanted the valves for when I make my long road trips honestly.
#1199
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Teh hell.. complain, that's burrrrshieett.