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The "no fender" look is becoming a stupid trend on these. I've even seen one that modified his front bumper and mounted round headlights to the rad support.
Cool shots, but you must have to truck your testicles around in a wheelbarrow!
Supposed to rain its ass off this weekend, but I have my stereo upgrade stuff ready to go in. My buddy needs me to assist with upgrading his stereo in his M3 first. Tit for tat kinda thing!
I drive up to it VERY slowly...then make sure there's nothing that'll make contact with the windshield...then inch my way under until the tail end is there. Then make sure not to bump my head or the support legs on the container getting out. Hardest part was getting my dslr from the trunk since i could only open it about a food.
That the driver survived with only a couple of broken bones is a testament to the design. It's a reason I've still got one in my garage. If only it would stop raining long enough for me to drive it......what a soggy June we've had here!
Drove home in a bad rain storm today...30 miles on newly paved highway from Miami to Broward County. Friggin unnerving...kept it in 6th, farrr away from torque!
I've recently been quoted $1200-$1500 to repair my rocker panel and they want to go as far as repainting the whole rear quarter panel to paint match.
After reading through quite a few articles & DIY, I'd say I'm comfortable attempting this repair myself given I have the proper tools (with the exception of painting the entire rear quarter panel, I have my own plan for that).
Here's the damage (Don't worry, I've installed a door since this was last taken )
Since the rocker panel is a structural part of the car, the metal is much thicker than traditional body panels.
Experts: Do you guys think a traditional stud welder & slide hammer could get it out? Or at least enough so I'm not using globs of body filler?
I know bodywork is traditionally left to the experts and it certainly is not easy, but $1200-$1500 for a 7" long crease is just too much to justify without exploring other avenues. Assuming the stud welder & slide hammer method works, I can get the job done for just under $350
Tyler...
question, I know there are bolts/and plug holes under the car in that region that might work or...have you given any thought to cutting out an access panel UNDER the rocker, then hand over to a paintless dent guy...then weld the cutout back on and paint with rustproofing white?
Just an idea...
I think the slide will work, and I think that on such a small area you can make it blend and look decent...but if you can keep the original paint, that'd be nice.
I decided yesterday morning to drive the S to work today. Since I don't typically drive it, I was genuinely giddy about driving it and had a hard time sleeping...
Due to the lack of garage & time as of late, I had my car in the shop yesterday and got slotted rotors, ceramic pads & fresh OEM motor mounts installed.
Wow, I knew my motor mounts were broken before, but when they were removed from my car they were completely disintegrated (poor NRG Torque Damper )
I noticed even the turn-in is crisper, acceleration feels more planted, and I can really bang out gear changes without the car feeling unstable. Downshifts are much improved, too.
After not driving my car for the past 5 days due to my brake issue, my car has developed a really funny idle & odd behavior on light acceleration.
Under 3,000rpm, my car has this strange hesitation & bucking - almost as if the fuel is being cut for a fraction of a second and coming back again.
My mechanic said after he test drove it, he thinks it's the Throttle Position Sensor inside of the throttle body since changing throttle position (essentially rebooting the throttle position) fixes the issue.
I'm busting out the multi-meter this weekend and measuring the resistance of the sensor - if I show any odd resistance & fluctuation on my multi-meter, it'll be time to order another TPS sensor from OMNI rather than shelling out $500 for the whole throttle body