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Does anyone else have issues with TPMS sensors when temperatures drop? I've had the issue with both of my cars. But my Subaru was a bit more sensative, and I had to go up to 38PSI of Nitrogen to get it to shut off.
Normally from summer to winter the sensors might trip on the first cold day. That said you should not have to bring the tires up to anymore than their standard door frame recommended pressure. What you want to do is after you fill the tires is hit the reset for the sensors.
Seeing a pressure drop once winter rolls around is pretty typical. Cold air is denser than hot air, so you can pack more molecules into the same space.
Oxygen also has a slightly larger molecule size compared to Nitrogen, but I would think the PSI would be the same, there'd just be "more" nitrogen. I'd do what Bear said - fill to the recommended pressures and reset the sensors.
Last edited by civicdrivr; 12-09-2020 at 08:13 AM.
^ Agreed, assuming you can reset them.
I'll have to look into if there's a non-dealership way to reset the TPMS on the Malibu when it comes time to rotate the tires.
Seeing a pressure drop once winter rolls around is pretty typical. Cold air is denser than hot air, so you can pack more molecules into the same space.
Oxygen also has a slightly larger molecule size compared to Nitrogen, but I would think the PSI would be the same, there'd just be "more" nitrogen. I'd do what Bear said - fill to the recommended pressures and reset the sensors.
This. It honestly doesn't make a difference for normal driving. Just fill your tires back up to where they need to be for exactly the same reason this guy said. Most TPMS systems don't need a reset, the light will go off once the right pressure is sensed.
This. It honestly doesn't make a difference for normal driving. Just fill your tires back up to where they need to be for exactly the same reason this guy said. Most TPMS systems don't need a reset, the light will go off once the right pressure is sensed.
Air is 78% nitrogen anyway lol.
mrmako said he had to over fill the tires to get the alarm? to shut off. Should be able to fill to door PSI & the system will reset as you drive. Some cars have a reset in the touch screen car status menu that shows PSI & tire temperature. Change of seasons both ways lost pressure (winter) & over pressure (summer) a reset is a quick fix once you stabilize the pressure.
Also lets you reset the TPMS parameters if you like your tires to run at a different pressure than the door PSI say pump the up for track day.
mrmako said he had to over fill the tires to get the alarm? to shut off. Should be able to fill to door PSI & the system will reset as you drive. Some cars have a reset in the touch screen car status menu that shows PSI & tire temperature. Change of seasons both ways lost pressure (winter) & over pressure (summer) a reset is a quick fix once you stabilize the pressure.
Also lets you reset the TPMS parameters if you like your tires to run at a different pressure than the door PSI say pump the up for track day.
In the two cars I have that have this sort of TPMS (one that reads out a pressure, Subaru and Jeep) I've never had to overfill to get it to reset, going back to the desired pressure turns off the light. My VW doesn't use a real TPMS, it uses the ABS sensors to check the number of revolutions vs expected in an effort to determine when a tire is deflated. This system requires a reset after filling the tires to tell it to recalibrate as to what number of revolutions is ok. This can just be done in the infotainment pretty easily.
mrmako said he had to over fill the tires to get the alarm? to shut off. Should be able to fill to door PSI & the system will reset as you drive. Some cars have a reset in the touch screen car status menu that shows PSI & tire temperature. Change of seasons both ways lost pressure (winter) & over pressure (summer) a reset is a quick fix once you stabilize the pressure.
Also lets you reset the TPMS parameters if you like your tires to run at a different pressure than the door PSI say pump the up for track day.
So the door jam has 36. I did that and the light stayed on (drove about 20 miles). Went back a few days later and raised the pressure to 38 and that did it. I think the sensor is just a bit off, and being 2 lbs over should not make a huge difference. I don't think.
So the door jam has 36. I did that and the light stayed on (drove about 20 miles). Went back a few days later and raised the pressure to 38 and that did it. I think the sensor is just a bit off, and being 2 lbs over should not make a huge difference. I don't think.
One other variable: how accurate is the tire pressure gauge you were using?
I found that most gauges attached to gas station air hoses read high by 4-6 PSI, based on a certified-accurate gauge. I also have two digital gauges that each read 2.5 PSI high, and a cheap old pencil gauge that was spot-on.
I generally prefer to run pressures 2-4 PSI higher than the OEM recommendation sticker, while maintaining any PSI differential between the front and rear tires(as with the 3G TL-S or MR2 Spyder).
So the door jam has 36. I did that and the light stayed on (drove about 20 miles). Went back a few days later and raised the pressure to 38 and that did it. I think the sensor is just a bit off, and being 2 lbs over should not make a huge difference. I don't think.
Should have asked, does you car display what it thinks the air pressure & tire temperature is?
If not & you are depending on normal auto store or service station tire gauges I agree with Will Y. I would not worry about a few pounds one way or another. Its easy to try 5 different ones in a row & get 5 different results.
Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 12-14-2020 at 01:10 PM.
Should have asked, does you car display what it thinks the air pressure & tire temperature is?
If not & you are depending on normal auto store or service station tire gauges I agree with Will Y. I would not worry about a few pounds one way or another. Its easy to try 5 different ones in a row & get 5 different results.
I'll look to see if the Subaru has this feature. I didn't dig into the MMI to see what was there. I know it has service history (oil change) and some assorted things. I'll advise.
I'll look to see if the Subaru has this feature. I didn't dig into the MMI to see what was there. I know it has service history (oil change) and some assorted things. I'll advise.
Our Outback measures tire pressure in the gauge cluster. The main infotainment screen doesn't do anything as it pertains to TPMS stuff.
The Insurance Institute for Highway Safety has been harping on automakers to improve headlights for years. Even AAA is fed up with the slow progress in headlights. But this year IIHS found a way to get more automakers to fix their bad headlights, and it’s actually working.
How the IIHS did it was straightforward: The insurer-funded group required headlight ratings to be Acceptable or Good for a marque’s vehicle to qualify for the Top Safety Pick+ award in 2020. (Two lower ratings, Marginal and Poor, also exist.) The Top Safety Pick+ ranking is given to the vehicles that not only pass the group’s six crashworthiness tests but also meet additional criteria, including headlight performance. It’s a goal automakers push to achieve. These requirements are the safety group’s latest phase in improving headlights since they started testing them five years ago.
Many 2020 models fell short of a Top Safety Pick+ because of the change, resulting in some manufacturers simply ditching poorly rated headlights.
IIHS determines how good a headlight performs based on the distance a vehicle’s low beams and high beams illuminate straight and curved roads. On a straight road, a low beam rated Good will cast light down at least 325 feet of roadway. Meanwhile, a low beam rated Poor could light up only 220 feet or less. Points are further deducted for lights that blind oncoming drivers and points are awarded for features that automatically switch between low and high beams.
For the 2020 model year, 85 out of the 185 models tested by the IIHS could be purchased with headlights rated Good. But only eight of those models had the Good headlights as standard equipment.
The 2021 model year is looking even better, as 10 vehicles have earned a Top Safety Pick+ simply by no longer offering the lights rated Marginal or Poor. Such vehicles include the Audi A7, Honda Accord, Hyundai Palisade, Mazda CX-30, Nissan Altima, Subaru Ascent, Toyota Highlander, Volvo S60, Volvo XC40 and Volvo XC60. The Honda Odyssey also earned a Top Safety Pick+ after the elimination of two headlight choices and testing of its pedestrian crash avoidance system.
According to IIHS, about half of all fatal crashes in the United States occur in the dark, and more than a quarter of them on unlit roads.
Good headlights can save lives. It’s amazing you can still buy new cars in America with headlights that do little more than meet minimum federal requirements, so it makes me happy automakers appear to be committing to better and safer lighting tech. If your car came with crappy headlights and you want to make them better, be sure to get a setup that won’t blind everyone.
I didn't read the article but whoa an ITR. Kind of weird to be mentioned amongst the others but I get it. Wouldn't the latest CTR be superior to it or do they just want cars with that lore.
Yeah that kind of surprised me at first. I don't know if the Civic Type-R offers the same kind of on-brand driving experience that the ITR would though. Think the Integra was included because it was the best execution of the popular Honda recipe. Otherwise the S2000 or NSX would have been a better fit.
I'm shocked they were able to get a McLaren friggin F1. Unobtanium of cars...and they got it to be driven on a track....I can't imagine the mountains of waivers/insurance papers and the extra premium/cost for such an experience.
Yeah that kind of surprised me at first. I don't know if the Civic Type-R offers the same kind of on-brand driving experience that the ITR would though. Think the Integra was included because it was the best execution of the popular Honda recipe. Otherwise the S2000 or NSX would have been a better fit.
Originally Posted by Doom878
I didn't read the article but whoa an ITR. Kind of weird to be mentioned amongst the others but I get it. Wouldn't the latest CTR be superior to it or do they just want cars with that lore.
My guess would be that an ITR was much easier to acquire than finding an original CTR in the states.
Additional fun fact on the Mac: It used to be owned by Wyclef Jean.
Maybe both?
I remember one of the videos on VinWiki with Bolian talking about the El Chapo F1 & he mentioned not being in a financial position to grab the Wyclef F1 when it was offered his way.
Just watched that episode. John was the one who had a relationship with people in Wyclef's circle, and was offered the cars, to which he passed on the info to Ed.
Even if you could stretch it to buy the F1, paying to maintain and insure it would be an even bigger deal...
Yeah there was that one Vinwiki video about an owner talking about maintenance costs. Fuel cell times out at like 5 years, costs I think at least $100k in parts, changing out the tires were like $50k total because they had to rent a racetrack to balance the tires and adjust suspension and needed driver and mechanics on site. He said if he didn't drive it 1 mile...it would avg about $50k/yr in maintenance.....and I bet that's probably on low side too.
Yeah there was that one Vinwiki video about an owner talking about maintenance costs. Fuel cell times out at like 5 years, costs I think at least $100k in parts, changing out the tires were like $50k total because they had to rent a racetrack to balance the tires and adjust suspension and needed driver and mechanics on site. He said if he didn't drive it 1 mile...it would avg about $50k/yr in maintenance.....and I bet that's probably on low side too.
I can't even imagine the insurance costs......
That particular is exaggerated with only small bits of truth, according to an F1 owner on PistonHeads. Others more familiar with the cars said most yearly costs are $30-40,000 a year unless they need the fuel bladder replaced or something else major is due.
That particular is exaggerated with only small bits of truth, according to an F1 owner on PistonHeads. Others more familiar with the cars said most yearly costs are $30-40,000 a year unless they need the fuel bladder replaced or something else major is due.
Yes, but $30k-$40k a year is still insane upkeep for a car that doesn't move lol. Insurance is probably at least that, if not more, every year as well. It's probably pretty expensive to insure a $20M car.
I don't recall the car, but remember hearing about a policy that stated that the car could not be out of the owner's sight when away from the primary location & was restricted to <100 miles/yr.
Yes, but $30k-$40k a year is still insane upkeep for a car that doesn't move lol. Insurance is probably at least that, if not more, every year as well. It's probably pretty expensive to insure a $20M car.
Likely chump change for the owner. TMK, most owners can afford the car a couple times over.
A thing to remember as well is that there are a couple other routes owners have gone to maintain the cars. Lanzante offers far more "regular" prices to service the cars, but the parts themselves are what get costly b/c they're still coming from the factory.
Likely chump change for the owner. TMK, most owners can afford the car a couple times over.
A thing to remember as well is that there are a couple other routes owners have gone to maintain the cars. Lanzante offers far more "regular" prices to service the cars, but the parts themselves are what get costly b/c they're still coming from the factory.
Yes, I get that. My comment was more towards if Ed Bolian had to "stretch his budget" to get one.
Not correcting anyone, just thought ya'll might enjoy some comments I remembered from a couple other owners. Frank Selldorf's comments were made back in the early 2000's back when he owned 007, 068, & LM03.
-maintenance is hard to calculate on any "normal" schedule. Other than replacing the battery regularly, there is nearly zero maintenance. i had the clutch done once (and it needs to be done again), and that costs around $8K I think.
-you can change anything and everything on the car. the only true options are the HDF kit and sport exhaust (i think). sport exhaust, i was told, involves simply drilling some holes to make it louder , seriously!
- painting the car was 20 or 30,000 pounds i think.
Frank
my experience has been near flawless. i had a few problems with the reverse lock-out pin jamming, but nothing else. there are scheduled maintenance periods like any car, but without going to the manual i can't remember when and how often. there was one at 5,000 to 10,000 miles for a valve check/adjustment and other routine stuff. i don't think the next one is for a long while. the car is pretty bullet-proof (amazing for a supercar).
-I'm not sure about the first aid kits, i'll have to check.
-If by "security expense" you mean insurance, then I'd have to say that it isn't as bad as it could be. I'm sure most owners have a lot of things to insure and therefore can work with the underwriter to get a decent rate. I did. The repair and maintenance costs are not cheap, however the cars are very solid and not much has gone wrong.
This is from a current owner, I believe the chassis with the mirrors mounted way up on the A-pillar.
The reason is that McLaren insist on scrubbing in new tyres after they have been fitted. The owner pays for hiring the track for a brief time plus the labour required to scrub the tyres plus to transport the car to and from. Even if the tyres are not being replaced, after a car has been serviced the factory want to drive it briefly on a track anyhow, to make sure that everything is working properly.
Re that video interview, which was done I think about 11-12 years ago, most of the guy's claims about prices were exaggerations, in some cases large ones.
Re Gordon saying that he sold his car because it needed a new water pump, okay, replacing the water pump is going to be expensive relative to replacing the water pump on most cars, but it's not going to be that expensive!
Fwiw, I have just watched that video again. I have nothing against Bruce Weiner (have never met the man), but almost everything he has to say about the F1 is incorrect.
In case anyone has some down time, you can read more of his posts here. There seems to be a pretty active topic about his car and he responds often on various subjects in it. https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/...=1&h=0&f=0&t=0
12-08-2020, 12:20 PM
, seriously!