Hello all,

My car definitely has some noise issues. I've had them ever since I put in my amps (see sig), but I've been using a GLI for a while and its been okay. However, I have to keep my gains really low on my mids and highs or the static crackling/whine comes back.

I've done some searching on here and I can't figure out if there is a definitive solution to the noise other than a GLI. I was actually thinkign about just getting an aftermarket head unit and just bypassing the acura nav hu all together, but that seems like a lot of trouble (and cost).

So Im just wondering if anyone has found a working solution for the noise issue before I consider my options, the whine has just been getting to me recently and I want to crank my system!!

 

also, I've been considering the JL Clean sweep, which everyone has seemed to shrug off; or Alpine's vehicle hub pro or other interfacing product (there are more coming out i just can't remember the brands)

 

If your amps don't like the balanced inputs, I'd recommend an Iso Max CI-2RR gound loop isolator from Markertek. Not cheap, but the best-sounding isolator I've ever heard. Google it and read the specs.

But that costs like $125 each. I use them to interface in certain other cars (BMW, etc).

Did you use twisted pair from the OEM amp location back? I forget.

But I had no crackling on my 300/4 when I had it in my car. My gain was low. If I turned it up too high I did hear whine, but no noise, and I had enough volume with the gain down.

 

Definitive solution? No. I'm running an aftermarket deck with the OEM deck piped into the AUX in of the aftermarket, and experience no whine. However, I'm all active (mostly for shits and giggles) and the gains on the amps are set quite low. I'd say you'd need balanced inputs but the 300/4 has them, so maybe try re-grounding? Possibly it's a headroom issue, but 300 watts should be sufficient. Hell, I have a 300/2 going to my mids and, when being stupid, I can turn it up enough to cause nightclub style hearing damage. There is one thing that I don't feel has been fully addressed. Is alt noise more prevalent amongst navi equipped vehicles verses non-nav? I do not have a navigation system.

 

I have twisted pair all around

So it seems like an aftermarket head unit does help, that might be an option. Ill check out that GLI.

Thanks guys

 

Of course an aftermarket head unit is easier.

I think your gains are too high.

Joerockt had this problem - he needed his gains higher and when they were that high, he had noise. He got a line driver and the problem went away, I beleive...

 

If you spliced the wires before the OEM amp and added RCA's to them, there pretty much isn't a solution!

The only resolve i've heard about is replacing the OEM amp and adding LOC's to the 4 door outputs from the OEM amp. Can't remember exactly who it was that replaceed the OEM amp, but it worked perfectly for them. No more noise and everything sounded great. I planned on doing it, but just haven't gotten around to it yet. I still have noise. Sux!

 

My gains probably are a little on the high side, but they don't reach half way (in fact, my rear gain floored for good up front stereo imaging), but I need that volume because my bass is pretty loud (gains are barely up on the 500/1). I guess Ill just have to live the noise until I can figure out if I want to go as far as getting a new HU etc...

Does anyone think that cleansweep would help?

 

Sure, it's a $400 line driver. (I am quoting the JL rep.)

It will help... but it's overkill. Most of that $400 is for reversing the OEM equalization that you don't have. Get a straight line driver for a whole lot less... unless you've already made up your mind and are looking for validation.

 

i definitely haven't made up my mind. Yeah the cleansweep is overkill, I just thought it made a lot more sense than a new head unit, i guess not considering the TSX hu output is presumably flat.

I like the idea of getting an alpine or kenwood with IPOD/Sirius/Bluetooth capabilities and then just running the nav head unit into one of the new head unit's aux inputs. I'm assuming the SQ would be a lot better, and the 2V+ output of aftermarket units might give me what I want.

 

Just a suggestion, maybe you've tried it, but have you played with the input voltage high/low switch on either amp? Say for instance, if have the switch on low for the 300/4 and high on the 500/1, that might allow you to set the gain low on the 300/4 and give you room to tweek the 500/1 so the bass blends better.

 

Cjams and glott,

I had noise and snaps when I tap the signals before the OEM amp. I added GLIs and the noise went away but still get very loud snaps even with the gains all the way down. Then I switched to getting the signals after the OEM amp, and no noise, no snaps, and I didn't even need GLIs. Just remember to use the 6x9's signals for bass. I sued doors signals at first and they weren't low or loud enough.

JL 300/4 for front and rear doors.
JL 300/2 for 12" subbox in trunk.

 

Hm. The strange thing about that is that snaps are usually a symptom of DC content from the HU.

If you use GLIs, they have transformers in them, and that means they don't pass DC through them.

When did the snaps occur?

As far as using the speaker level outputs you'd then be subjected to whatever EQing is in that amp (as well as any distortion added). I've never measured it, so I don't know if it has any or not. It is reversible (CleanSweep or EQS/DQS).

 

My snaps occur if the acc is on and im listening to the radio then turn the car on...pop!

 

Wiat a minute - that's turn on pop. That's when the RTO goes away and comes back. You can get rid of that with a turn on pop widget.

http://www.davidnavone.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=N-66

 

What does that do for noise? I think i'll just remove the rca's, the GLI's, forget the turn on pop widget, and return the OEM amp back to it's place then add loc's to the OEM amp output wires since that seems to cure all the problems.

 

The pop happens due to the timing of the RTO voltage dropping and coming back and the HU preout voltage dropping and coming back.

It will sound worse with the amp in.

 

Yup, the line driver solved this issue...

Ken, are you still getting your email at el_duderino@advincar.com? Sent you a message there about a week ago. And last I checked, your PM was full too.

Guess I could just call ya lol...

 

My snaps (not pop) occurs whenever it wants to. Usually, (1) when I listen to the radio and there's alot of static, (2) when I step on the brakes, (3) when I press any of the radio buttons. The snap sounds like a static discharge that gets amplified by the amp. The higher the gain, the louder the snaps.

Now with the signals tapped after the OEM amp, the sound is clear, non distorted, and loud. It sounds a hundred times better than before.

 

line drivers solved issues i had way back when trying to swap out the stock amp for aftermarket.

 

k, so what line drive do you guys recommend??

 

Just put a relay on the amp turn on wire, problem solved.

 

What does that do for noise? I think i'll just remove the rca's, the GLI's, forget the turn on pop widget or relay, and return the OEM amp back to it's place then add loc's to the OEM amp output wires since that seems to cure all the problems.

Or should I have just typed ditto?

 

So just to add my two cents, I have experenced this problem ever since I installed my alpine deck and amp. I am in the process of building a new amp holder in my trunk and right now I have all the speaker wires disconnected so they are in no way linked to the deck but I still hear the whine. I bought some uper end monstercable and ran that from the trunk to the crossovers to the speakers and while it helped alittle the problem is still there. I will have to trace it down but its like one of the wires is crossing paths with a high voltage source.

 

well, it's avincar.com, but yeah, I am catching up on my email. My home PC toasted and I am trying to do my email at home on an Apple laptop and the Comcast web interface (pfui). Also, we are almost done with our new bigger store (only 2500 SF but still bigger than the old place).

Sorry about the delay, I'll get back to you ASAP. I'll also post pics of the store - mudded and taped the wood shop yesterday, hung 8 400W metal halides in the shop, got the showroom carpeted and painted and everything, looking really nice.

Just picked up Zapco and Morel, have Eclipse and Nak and Sony, Dynaudio and DLS and AudioControl, and Clifford, and might pick up ID. US head of MB Quart visited yesterday and they have a new line that we might pick up.

 

OK, guys, tell you what.

Let's make an appointment for you working on your car and me playing tech support on the other end of the phone.

Email me at acurazine at avincar dot com, K?

And Glott, you're not at Bob Jones U, are you?

 

I go to Miami Law School in Coral Gables, FL.

 

The pop/snap/noise you describe is very likely due the amp powering before the HU as you shut them off and on by turning the ignition switch. A relay on the remote wire will introduce a slight turn on delay on the amp, thus eliminating the pop.

That could work if the OEM amp suppresses (delays) output on turn on, essentially acting as a buffer. If it doesn't, it will still pop. A relay is like $5.

 

The OEM amp actually comes on instantly. This is how you can get Nav voice with the system off (and why many aftermarket amp installs on nav chop off the first word or so).

 

Humm, I don't have a nav, any idea how it behaves with the audio system off? Does it switch the amp on to relay information then off when done or after some period of inactivity?

 

any line driver recommendations?

 

I picked up this Audiobahn:

http://www.audioallies.com/getitem.a...=ALD28T&Sys=FR

Its fairly small too, which makes it easier to hide...

 

I'm really confused over this. There has got to be some serious equalization being done at the HU. Just listen to the bass level at low volume and compare it at high volume, it decreases. The equalization sounds very different at different volumes, which many OEM systems do now to compensate for crappy amps and speakers. And I have no doubt Acura has done the same.

I've been trying for weeks now to figure out how to install a quality system while retaining the OEM HU. I'm wondering if using the CleanSweep prior to the amp, or the JL summing component and a cleansweep after the amp are the best choices to get the best possible signal and to avoid hissing, humming, popping, whining and only allowing your amp gains to be at minimum.

I don't know, it's getting awfully expensive to get what I want.

 

http://myeporia.eporia.com/Resources..._38/LC8_OM.pdf
.................OR...........
http://myeporia.eporia.com/Resources..._38/LC6_OM.pdf

These are Audiocontrol pieces.
I'm not sure of the prices but, I think they are less then the Cleansweep.

 

I've RTA'd the damn thing, and there is NOT "serious equalization" being done at the HU. There is a mild auto-loudness circuit that matches how we hear (it's called the Fletcher-Munson loudness curve) and above 20 it's very flat - but at like 2-4 on the volume control it's still only like 5dB at the highest boost point in the bass.

See my new thread today about a system with no noise at all