DIY: Converting DBW to Mechanical Cable Throttle with Working A/C

Old 09-08-2015, 12:25 AM
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
DIY: Converting DBW to Mechanical Cable Throttle with Working A/C

For those of you are tired of the sluggish DBW system, I got a good news for you. The DIY for converting DBW to throttle cable system is finally here! There are couple known issues that I am still trying to find the solution for. Please take those into consideration before jumping into it. Worth it or not, itís your call.

I mistakenly attempted this modification with the RSX-S throttle body. The reason why I call it a mistake is because first, you will have to purchase the RBC adapter ($60) and the cruise control delete kit ($85). Second, I actually spent more time to diagnose the vacuum leak (itís caused by the TB adapter) than doing everything else combined. Although I have never tried, it might be easier to attempt this modification with 04 Accord TB instead since both car come with the same intake manifold.

I am not a professional mechanic nor have I taken any mechanic classes at school. This is pretty much the first project on my TSX I attempt without following any instructions. I believe a lot of you guys can do a lot better job than I do.

Known Issues:
No Cruise Control

No VSA and the light will stay on the dash

Rev fluctuation
- I am still trying to find the solution. I have tried cleaning the IACV but that still didnít solve the problem. I am suspecting itís caused by the air in the cooling system. As soon as I have any updates I will post it here.

Throwing a code P0498
- It can be disabled on the ECU.

Speedometer is inaccurate
- The speed showing on the speedometer is faster than your actual speed due to difference in gear ratio
- It also affects the mileage you get on your car. That means your car gets more mileage than the actual miles driven.


This project was done on a 04 TSX Manual.

Parts you will need:

RSX-S Throttle Body ($180)
- Used, I got it off eBay

RSX-S Throttle Body Gasket ($3.59)
- Part # - 16176-PRB-A01

04 TSX Throttle Body Gasket ($3.76)
- Part # - 16176-RAA-A01

Karcepts RBC adapter ($60)

Karcepts Cruise Control Delete Kit ($85)

06 TSX Intake Tube ($37)
- Part # - 17228-RBB-A00

03-05 Accord KTuner End-User System ($450)

05 Accord ECU ($30)
- Used, I got it off eBay
- Please refer to the list of compatible ECU on K-Tunerís website

03-05 Accord Throttle Cable
- Part # - 17910-SDA-A03

5/16Ē Rubber Hose
- for EVAP

3/8Ē Rubber Hose
- for replacing one of the coolant hoses going to IACV since the original one is not long enough

RSX-S TPS Connector ($17)
- Brand new, I got it off eBay

RSX-S IACV Connector ($8)
- Used, I got it off eBay

Ring Terminal

6 pin HX .040 Male Connector
- Will be used for rewiring the TPS and IACV
- Will be plugged into the APP sensor wire harness

Heat Shrink Butt Connectors

16 AWG Wire
- I used 16 AWG because it provides a better connection
- Original size for the wire harness is 18 AWG

Heat Shield Sleeve for Wire Harness

Heat Shrink Number Marker (Optional)

Tools you will need:

Wire Stripper

Crimp Tool for terminals

RTV Gasket Maker

Electrical tape

On the RSX-S throttle body:
If you get it used, make sure DONíT use carb cleaner to clean the sealant around the butterfly plate. The sealant is easy to be mistaken as carbon buildup since itís in black. And check if itís fully sealed when itís closed by shining it under the light. If you can see crack of light around the butterfly plate, then well, you got some work to do to seal it up. I mistakenly cleaned up the sealant and I had to spend so much time to reseal it.
Replace the MAP sensor with the rubber plug which comes with the Karcepts RBC adapter. We donít need the map sensor on the TB since there is already one on the IM.
Remove the EVAP sensor. Open up the sensor and remove the piston and the spring inside. This sensor will then serve as a channel for gasoline vapors only. Make sure there is no leak before putting it back to the TB.

On the ECU:
Install the K-Tuner End-User System to the ECU. For installation please refer to K Tunerís website or ask the vendor to install it for you (which is what I did). And the vendor also provided me with the K24 map in it.


On the 6 pin connector, this is how you connect the wires to the TPS and IACV

1. TPS 3
2. TPS 1
3. IACV 3
4. TPS 2
5. (I left it empty)
6. (I left it empty)

Name:  IACV.jpg
Views: 229344
Size:  30.5 KB

On the IACV connector, extend IACV 1 wire with butt connector and wire. Make it long enough to reach where G101 is on the IM (underneath the IM cover). Crimp a ring terminal to it. Then for IACV 2 wire, extend it and make it long enough to reach connector C102.

*******Starting from here your car cannot be driven until you finish everything*******

Disconnect and remove the battery. Remove the intake box and replace the intake tube the original on is not big enough to accommodate the RSX-S TB. Remove the bolts and nuts that are holding the TB on the IM. Be prepared with couple empty bottles to catch the coolant coming out from the hoses. Pull off the coolant hoses which connect to the TB. In my case the coolant filled up 2 bottles. After that replace the coolant hose with a longer 3/8Ē rubber hose because the original hose is not long enough. Remove the TB. After that there are 2 studs still bolted to the IM. Remove them by putting 2 nuts on there to jam each other and unbolt the stud out.

Name:  IMG_20150502_170720.jpg
Views: 230589
Size:  150.6 KB

Install the Karcepts RBC adapter with the TSX TB Gasket in between. Then apply some RTV gasket maker into the right upper and left lower corner bolt heads to fill up the holes. Install the RSX-S TB with the RSX-S TB Gasket in between. Connect the coolant hoses to IACV on the TB.

On connector A of the TSX wire harness, extract the terminal at A25 and move it to A12, extract A26 and move it to A29.

Name:  IMG_20150502_135257_edited.jpg
Views: 230020
Size:  117.5 KB

Unplug the APP sensor, plug in the 6 pin connector you just finished making to the 6 pin female connector. Plug in TPS and IACV connectors. Remove the IM cover and bolt the ring terminal crimped to IACV 1 to where G101 is. For IACV 2 I gotta admit my work was kinda cheesy because I was rush to get this done. What I did was to unclip the C102 connector from the plastic housing (be careful the clips holding the connector is easy to break). Then took out the metal barrel from a butt connector and crimp it to the IACV 2 wire and use electrical tape to tape the barrel to the bus bar where circuit D04 is (Pretty ghetto huh?).

Name:  C102.jpg
Views: 229219
Size:  56.1 KB

Replace the ECU and plug in all the connectors. Put the intake back and battery back. Make sure all the hoses are connected. And make sure to refill the coolant to proper level.

Now start it up!!

Calibrate the TPS on KTunerís software. Make sure the TPS is at 0 when itís fully shut.
cycdaniel is offline  
Old 10-02-2015, 06:43 AM
iTrader: (1)
feuss2's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Nomadic
Posts: 945
Received 14 Likes on 14 Posts
Why did you do this instead of remapping your throttle plate?
feuss2 is offline  
Old 10-05-2015, 04:38 PM
Old Guy
Simba91102's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,860
Likes: 0
Received 156 Likes on 137 Posts
I think the drive by wire throttle used on the TSX is outstanding (with the AT anyway), and I'm curious about your opinion. I've been here for many years, and this is one issue that has received zero complaints that I can recall. And if you think the Honda system (which was designed probably at least 15 years ago) is inadequate, try driving a new Dodge with their version of it. That's a DBW system that would make you wish for a throttle cable!
Simba91102 is offline  
Old 03-30-2016, 11:25 AM
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Age: 23
Posts: 8
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Good to know this is possible. I have gotten used to the electronically-controlled throttle, but I do not like it. There is too much lag when making quick throttle inputs, and the system likes to ignore repeated sharp inputs sometimes. This is particularly frustrating when downshifting in rapid succession. The first two downshifts go fine, but then on the third, the computer likes to somewhat ignore my input and so the engine doesn't end up revving as high as I need. I get around this by bottoming out the gas pedal when rev-matching, which seems to work, but the technique is too aggressive to apply on other cars that have traditional cable throttles. So I have to maintain two downshifting techniques, one for my car and similar, and one for older cars.
Zane Kaminski is offline  
Old 05-22-2016, 06:50 PM
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Nice write up man.....this will help out many ppl looking to do this mod.
me3 is offline  
Old 02-26-2019, 08:55 AM
Registered Member
SatanicMechanic's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Vancouver, BC
Age: 47
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Finally, Pics!

Not sure how this post ended up in this thread, was supposed to be in "My current project" in 1st-gen CL.

Last edited by SatanicMechanic; 02-26-2019 at 08:57 AM.
SatanicMechanic is offline  
Related Topics
Thread Starter
Last Post
4G TL Problems & Fixes
09-28-2017 09:12 AM
3G TL Problems & Fixes
09-21-2015 08:32 PM
Car Parts for Sale
09-19-2015 03:47 PM
2G TL Problems & Fixes
09-10-2015 10:22 PM
2G TL Problems & Fixes
09-03-2015 07:54 PM

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: DIY: Converting DBW to Mechanical Cable Throttle with Working A/C

Contact Us - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to and affiliated sites.