DIY: Converting DBW to Mechanical Cable Throttle with Working A/C

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Old 09-08-2015, 12:25 AM
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DIY: Converting DBW to Mechanical Cable Throttle with Working A/C

For those of you are tired of the sluggish DBW system, I got a good news for you. The DIY for converting DBW to throttle cable system is finally here! There are couple known issues that I am still trying to find the solution for. Please take those into consideration before jumping into it. Worth it or not, it’s your call.

I mistakenly attempted this modification with the RSX-S throttle body. The reason why I call it a mistake is because first, you will have to purchase the RBC adapter ($60) and the cruise control delete kit ($85). Second, I actually spent more time to diagnose the vacuum leak (it’s caused by the TB adapter) than doing everything else combined. Although I have never tried, it might be easier to attempt this modification with 04 Accord TB instead since both car come with the same intake manifold.

I am not a professional mechanic nor have I taken any mechanic classes at school. This is pretty much the first project on my TSX I attempt without following any instructions. I believe a lot of you guys can do a lot better job than I do.

Known Issues:
No Cruise Control

No VSA and the light will stay on the dash

Rev fluctuation
- I am still trying to find the solution. I have tried cleaning the IACV but that still didn’t solve the problem. I am suspecting it’s caused by the air in the cooling system. As soon as I have any updates I will post it here.

Throwing a code P0498
- It can be disabled on the ECU.

Speedometer is inaccurate
- The speed showing on the speedometer is faster than your actual speed due to difference in gear ratio
- It also affects the mileage you get on your car. That means your car gets more mileage than the actual miles driven.

*Disclaimer: I WILL NOT BE HELD LIABLE OR RESPONSIBLE IN ANY DAMAGE TO YOUR CAR OR ANY INJURY TO ANYONE AS A RESULT OF FOLOWING THE INSTRUCTIONS.*

This project was done on a 04 TSX Manual.

Parts you will need:

RSX-S Throttle Body ($180)
- Used, I got it off eBay

RSX-S Throttle Body Gasket ($3.59)
- Part # - 16176-PRB-A01

04 TSX Throttle Body Gasket ($3.76)
- Part # - 16176-RAA-A01

Karcepts RBC adapter ($60)

Karcepts Cruise Control Delete Kit ($85)

06 TSX Intake Tube ($37)
- Part # - 17228-RBB-A00

03-05 Accord KTuner End-User System ($450)

05 Accord ECU ($30)
- Used, I got it off eBay
- Please refer to the list of compatible ECU on K-Tuner’s website

03-05 Accord Throttle Cable
- Part # - 17910-SDA-A03

5/16” Rubber Hose
- for EVAP

3/8” Rubber Hose
- for replacing one of the coolant hoses going to IACV since the original one is not long enough

RSX-S TPS Connector ($17)
- Brand new, I got it off eBay

RSX-S IACV Connector ($8)
- Used, I got it off eBay

Ring Terminal

6 pin HX .040 Male Connector
- Will be used for rewiring the TPS and IACV
- Will be plugged into the APP sensor wire harness

Heat Shrink Butt Connectors

16 AWG Wire
- I used 16 AWG because it provides a better connection
- Original size for the wire harness is 18 AWG

Heat Shield Sleeve for Wire Harness

Heat Shrink Number Marker (Optional)

Tools you will need:

Wire Stripper

Crimp Tool for terminals

RTV Gasket Maker

Electrical tape

On the RSX-S throttle body:
If you get it used, make sure DON’T use carb cleaner to clean the sealant around the butterfly plate. The sealant is easy to be mistaken as carbon buildup since it’s in black. And check if it’s fully sealed when it’s closed by shining it under the light. If you can see crack of light around the butterfly plate, then well, you got some work to do to seal it up. I mistakenly cleaned up the sealant and I had to spend so much time to reseal it.
Replace the MAP sensor with the rubber plug which comes with the Karcepts RBC adapter. We don’t need the map sensor on the TB since there is already one on the IM.
Remove the EVAP sensor. Open up the sensor and remove the piston and the spring inside. This sensor will then serve as a channel for gasoline vapors only. Make sure there is no leak before putting it back to the TB.

On the ECU:
Install the K-Tuner End-User System to the ECU. For installation please refer to K Tuner’s website or ask the vendor to install it for you (which is what I did). And the vendor also provided me with the K24 map in it.

Rewiring:

On the 6 pin connector, this is how you connect the wires to the TPS and IACV

1. TPS 3
2. TPS 1
3. IACV 3
4. TPS 2
5. (I left it empty)
6. (I left it empty)



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On the IACV connector, extend IACV 1 wire with butt connector and wire. Make it long enough to reach where G101 is on the IM (underneath the IM cover). Crimp a ring terminal to it. Then for IACV 2 wire, extend it and make it long enough to reach connector C102.


*******Starting from here your car cannot be driven until you finish everything*******

Disconnect and remove the battery. Remove the intake box and replace the intake tube the original on is not big enough to accommodate the RSX-S TB. Remove the bolts and nuts that are holding the TB on the IM. Be prepared with couple empty bottles to catch the coolant coming out from the hoses. Pull off the coolant hoses which connect to the TB. In my case the coolant filled up 2 bottles. After that replace the coolant hose with a longer 3/8” rubber hose because the original hose is not long enough. Remove the TB. After that there are 2 studs still bolted to the IM. Remove them by putting 2 nuts on there to jam each other and unbolt the stud out.

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Install the Karcepts RBC adapter with the TSX TB Gasket in between. Then apply some RTV gasket maker into the right upper and left lower corner bolt heads to fill up the holes. Install the RSX-S TB with the RSX-S TB Gasket in between. Connect the coolant hoses to IACV on the TB.


On connector A of the TSX wire harness, extract the terminal at A25 and move it to A12, extract A26 and move it to A29.

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Unplug the APP sensor, plug in the 6 pin connector you just finished making to the 6 pin female connector. Plug in TPS and IACV connectors. Remove the IM cover and bolt the ring terminal crimped to IACV 1 to where G101 is. For IACV 2 I gotta admit my work was kinda cheesy because I was rush to get this done. What I did was to unclip the C102 connector from the plastic housing (be careful the clips holding the connector is easy to break). Then took out the metal barrel from a butt connector and crimp it to the IACV 2 wire and use electrical tape to tape the barrel to the bus bar where circuit D04 is (Pretty ghetto huh?).

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Replace the ECU and plug in all the connectors. Put the intake back and battery back. Make sure all the hoses are connected. And make sure to refill the coolant to proper level.

Now start it up!!

Calibrate the TPS on KTuner’s software. Make sure the TPS is at 0 when it’s fully shut.
Old 10-02-2015, 06:43 AM
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Why did you do this instead of remapping your throttle plate?
Old 10-05-2015, 04:38 PM
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I think the drive by wire throttle used on the TSX is outstanding (with the AT anyway), and I'm curious about your opinion. I've been here for many years, and this is one issue that has received zero complaints that I can recall. And if you think the Honda system (which was designed probably at least 15 years ago) is inadequate, try driving a new Dodge with their version of it. That's a DBW system that would make you wish for a throttle cable!
Old 03-30-2016, 11:25 AM
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Good to know this is possible. I have gotten used to the electronically-controlled throttle, but I do not like it. There is too much lag when making quick throttle inputs, and the system likes to ignore repeated sharp inputs sometimes. This is particularly frustrating when downshifting in rapid succession. The first two downshifts go fine, but then on the third, the computer likes to somewhat ignore my input and so the engine doesn't end up revving as high as I need. I get around this by bottoming out the gas pedal when rev-matching, which seems to work, but the technique is too aggressive to apply on other cars that have traditional cable throttles. So I have to maintain two downshifting techniques, one for my car and similar, and one for older cars.
Old 05-22-2016, 06:50 PM
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me3
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Nice write up man.....this will help out many ppl looking to do this mod.
Old 02-26-2019, 08:55 AM
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Finally, Pics!

Not sure how this post ended up in this thread, was supposed to be in "My current project" in 1st-gen CL.

Last edited by SatanicMechanic; 02-26-2019 at 08:57 AM.
Old 08-20-2019, 02:53 AM
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try to use elm327,I have got clone one on this site chinacardiags.com
Old 10-21-2019, 03:41 PM
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Just ignore it. I have it from day one, 3 years go.
Old 12-17-2019, 10:58 AM
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I just installed the 07 mirrors on my 06 base. Like everyone else side, driver side works but passenger side doesn't light up. So I should splice and tap the white wire into the right rear taillight turn signal? Or it's too difficult?
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