If you add an amp and sub to the factory head unti, does the head unit have a ton of 'auto loudness' and boost everything so you can never make anything balance, or does it actually sound pretty good, and you still maintain some control?
I want to start with a sub and amp, then move into changes the factory speakers also, but want to keep the head unit.
Have 2002 TL-S with Nav coming in March, and would like to make some mods literally the day I get it...
Thoughts/feedback, please?

 

i'd start with the head unit and then amps then subs...i would toss the factory deck, amps, speakers and sub...

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1996 2.5 TL Dark Green
HKS Powerflow, HKS Fuel Pressure Regulator, Sebring Exhaust, Jacobs Pro Street, Apex-i AFC, Jet ECU, Powerslot Rotors, Axxis Metal Master Pads, PIAA 1100x, Clarion 9255, Tube Driver Amps, Boston Pro 10's (2) , CD Technologies 6-4-2, Clarion MVA6491 (3), Valentine 1, Cliford Avant Guard 4, Monster Capacitors (2), Jacobs Accuvolt, Trunk, Underdash and Underbody Neons
No nav yet but soon!!!

 

I find that changing the speakers make the biggest difference (how I hated the stock subwoofer, and that changing the head unit makes the least difference in the sound quality. Not that it doesn't make any difference at all, but getting better speakers and a real amp is the meat of upgrading a sound system.

If you're going step-by-step I would recommend: (1) front speakers (which most affect what you hear from the driver's seat), (2) amp with (3) subwoofer, (4) rear speakers if you have rear-seat passengers a lot, and finally (5) the head unit.

Just my 3 cents.

 

Anyone just change the amp and the subwoofer? Can it still use the stock HU with that setup?

Thanks

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'00 Acura 3.2TL Laguna Green
9005 Piaa Plasma's
Osram Diadem side markers
V1
other mod's coming after the winter...

 

With the syestme being Bose, can you change the front speakers without re-wiring and adding power? You can't drive non-Bose speakers in the front off the factory head unit, can you? What about the Bose crap in there?

 

I changed everything but the h/u! Alpine parametric EQ, four new door spkrs, new sub and amps for spkrs and sub and all new spkr wiring.
Ran the h/u spkr wires to a 4 channel line output converter, then RCA cables to the Alpine EQ, then RCAs to the new amps in the trunk. Sounds great!!! No need for a new h/u yet...I want to find a nice custom dash/console trim for the new h/u first.

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<A HREF="http://www.acura-tl.com/_borders/TL_in_Pacific_Grove.jpg" TARGET=_blank>1999 ACURA 3.2TL
</A>
Performance:
Comptech Exhausts | Comptech Springs | Versus Turismo Spada 18x7.5 | Michelin Pilot Sport 225/45ZR18 |
Security:
Clifford IG9000 loaded with all features & SuperBrite Blue LEDs | Valentine One w/ concealed display | McGard SplineDrive wheel locks/lugs | S&W 645
Audio:
Bose Headunit...for now | Alpine ERE-G190 Sub Processor/EQ | Phoenix Gold ZX400ti(Sub) & ZX475ti(Spkrs) Amps | Alumapro BP-10 Sub | Infinity Kappa 63.1i & 52.1i speakers | Custom-made speaker adapters | PG 1.2 farad Cap | GSI Fused Dist Panel | PIE Line-out Converter | PG wiring & cables | R/F 100-amp circuit breaker |
Effects:
Custom painted rotors & calipers | OEM Burlwood Guage bezel | Inspire Fog switch | Dynamat Trunk kit | Levoc pedals |

TL Daddy's pics

 

Thanks for your input. May just do the whole thing in one hit now, front back and subs! Anyone used Infinity stuff here?

 

I installed Infinity 6.5" 3-ways in the front and 5.25" 2-ways in the rear. Had to make new spkr adapters. Your door spkr mounting depth should be no more than 2.5". The stock plastic spkr adapter is 1" thick, and the Bose spkr extend 1.5" into the doors. So I made my adapters 1" thick also, and my Infinity spkrs are slightly deeper than stock, so they fit fine.

BTW - about your original "boost" Q? I keep my Bose h/u Bass/Treble setting neutral now, and use the Eq and the gain, sensitivity, etc. setting on my amps to make the stereo sound awesome.

Here are some pics of my spkr install. I'll post some of my system in a day or so.
Driver's door Infinity Kappa 63.1i

Left rear door Kappa 52.1i next to Bose 6" stock


------------------
<A HREF="http://www.acura-tl.com/_borders/TL_in_Pacific_Grove.jpg" TARGET=_blank>1999 ACURA 3.2TL
</A>
Performance:
Comptech Exhausts | Comptech Springs | Versus Turismo Spada 18x7.5 | Michelin Pilot Sport 225/45ZR18 |
Security:
Clifford IG9000 loaded with all features & SuperBrite Blue LEDs | Valentine One w/ concealed display | McGard SplineDrive wheel locks/lugs | S&W 645
Audio:
Bose Headunit...for now | Alpine ERE-G190 Sub Processor/EQ | Phoenix Gold ZX400ti(Sub) & ZX475ti(Spkrs) Amps | Alumapro BP-10 Sub | Infinity Kappa 63.1i & 52.1i speakers | Custom-made speaker adapters | PG 1.2 farad Cap | GSI Fused Dist Panel | PIE Line-out Converter | PG wiring & cables | R/F 100-amp circuit breaker |
Effects:
Custom painted rotors & calipers | OEM Burlwood Guage bezel | Inspire Fog switch | Dynamat Trunk kit | Levoc pedals |

TL Daddy's pics

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by TL Daddy on February 06, 2001 @ ]</font>

 

So when you connect the aftermarket equipment to the head unit, you just tapped off the line out of the head unit no problem? Did you use the sub line level from the head unit to go into your sub amp, or is it a full range output direct from the head unit? I assume there is a line out to tap into before it goes to the outboard bose eq, yes?
Thanks for your help!

 

SonyMan,

• I seperated the 8 spkr wires (Plus power & ground wires) that come out of the Bose h/u wiring harness and spliced & soldered each one individually to the 8 input wires on my PIE 4-channel line output converter.
• The LOC has 4 RCA leads coming out. So I used the rear channel leads, which has full range, to patch into my EQ (or directly to amps if you don't want an EQ).
• Then RCAs go from the EQ to my amps for the new sub and Infinitys.
• Oh, I tapped into the Radio Power-On to run my EQ.

I disconnected and removed the stock sub and sub amp.
Yes you can tap into the spkr wires before the little, hidden stock EQ. In fact, there are no spkr wires going there. I just left it intact.
I opted for the Alpine EQ so that I could have the sub volume control in the car, as well as sound control. The whole setup sounds great!!!
My pleasure

 

Hey, thanks for all your input!
I am very excited about this new car, and am planning on tearing it all apart within days of its arrival. Dynomat everywhere, new sub and amp, and, by the sounds of things new fronts and rears right away as well.
Is there something posted somewhere in here detailing what you have just explained, wire colors, etc? I can certainly do it on my own, but if someone already knows that it will obviously save a ton of time.
Thanks again!!!

 

I'll have to look at my Helm service manual and post the wire colors for the h/u later. Just post or email me if you have any questions when you do your install. Good luck!

 

Thanks TL Daddy.
Have not decided on total design yet, but looks like either an XMAX 10 or Infinity Perfect 10, sealed, with Pheonix power and eq, and adding a line driver as well.
Then I'll need to talk to you about the car starter...
Also, I will want to lower it ASAP, not much, probably .75 front and .5 rear. Any ideas on what the 2002 TL-S will need for this?
Thanks again, and I'll certainly take you up on your offer!