Here are the prices for these engines in our area.

 

I don't understand the pic, is that saying that on paper the swap is 11.2 hrs labour?

looks like my prices are similar. what info am I lookign for with the VIN? Or is that just a confirmation on the engine type and manufacturing date?

 

Yes, the standard for replacing an engine at a dealer is 11.2 hours, but if the car is older than 10 years, garages usually add 25% to this figure to have a reserve for force majeure and to earn money. On average, I spend 3-4 hours removing this engine, 2-3 hours swapping attachments, and 5-6 hours installing it. You need the VIN to verify the mileage and service history via Carfax.

 

Hey, just jumping back into this issue and hoping you can lend some more advice! Mechanic said leakdown test had pressure loss to valves and a little bit to the rings. He didn't check with an endoscope but I'm going to myself. Is it possible that carbon buildup would cause valves to not seal and lose compression? Is a blown piston ring obvious by looking at the cylinder walls or would that require a leak down test to confirm? I'm expecting to see a lot of carbon from the burning oil but not sure at what point that's something I should worry about. Is there any further diagnostic you'd recommend I do before I move on?

I plan on taking the heads off, is this going to be a waste or time or is it a logical second step after an endoscopy? Sounds like pitted cams are common, is that a likely scenario here? If I have either messed up cams, messed up valves, or both, is rebuilding the heads a feasible solution or is it wise to replace the entire engine at that point? TIA

Side note that might help and I forgot to mention - my engine had the pinging issue that I've read about on here. If the engine is at or near operating temp and has been sitting for a few minutes (like going to get gas or groceries), the first minute or so of acceleration sounds like marbles in a tin can from the engine bay, but goes away quickly. It's less noticeable if I used 94 octane fuel. More noticeable on 91.

 

When was the last time you adjust the valves? Valve leaks can be due to a lack of clearance, and knocking can also occur if the exhaust valves do not open fully.

 

Never in the 100k that I've owned the car... Not sure about the first 80k...probably not. That'll be step 1 I guess?

 

Yes

 

Another question - I'm just trying to prepare for the worst... please tell me I'm an idiot if you have to but I'm having a hard time finding an answer on acurazine. Will a JDM j35z6 work in this car? One JDM guy told me it wont be a problem, but another said it CAN be a problem. Only reason why I ask is that there is an imported 3.5 locally that only has 90k km on it for not much more than a junkyard 3.5, and they have a startup warranty.

Haven't checked valves yet.. been -20C outside but it's warming up this week.

 

JDM J35Z6? I don't think such an engine exist because I do not know a car on which it could be installed in Japan. Do you have a link?

 

Looks like you're right, I didn't ask enough questions. The guy said the japanese engines don't follow the same numbers exactly so it's just a J35A... probably not a good option then eh?

 

Another random question... When I fire up my car in it's current condition (also was happening when the misfire just started and the battery was definitely fully charged), I get a bunch of warnings like check ABS system, hill assist?, emission system, might be forgetting some things that popped up. I'd expect the emission system warning light but what's up with the other warnings? Is that any indication of what might be happening or is the system just going haywire from the misfires?

 

There is no sense in JDM for this generation of TL

 

This is called limp mode, when the ECM does not understand what is happening and turns off all systems that could theoretically affect the operation of the engine.

 

Ahh okay. Think I found my issue...

 

Also... do these look abnormally nasty for this engine or is this par for the course with the oil burning issue?

 

With your mechanic prices, I dare to assume that you will be replace the engine. Right?
What is the mileage on your engine?

 

I called a machine shop and got a price to rebuild each head for $600. So around $1500 for rebuilt heads and new gaskets? Plus fluids and my time to reassemble. Based on those pics does it look like thats a reasonable option? I have also been put in contact with another mechanic, a friend of a friend, who will help me swap the engine for $800 plus whatever the new engine costs. Which is likely the better option?

180k km on my engine

 

If it were my engine I would rebuild the heads but if I were paying it would be more expensive than replacing the engine. Replacing the heads would take as much labor as replacing the engine.

 

Yeah that's fair enough, about the same price for me either way I figure. I'd be replacing with a $1500 j35 and it's not a sure thing if that engine won't have an issue as well. But am I just putting a Band-Aid on a bigger issue with this engine, or is the carbon buildup and burning oil manageable with sooner oil changes and/or more viscous oil?

 

First, you need to find out the approximate history of the new engine, at least through Carfax, and then start working from that before installation.
If you do a rebuild, you will need to remove the old pistons and at least completely clean the rings, or at least modify them to avoid future problems with oil consumption.
It's a pity that you live far from the east coast, I would buy an old engine from you.

 

So do you think it's not worth just getting the head rebuilt based on the pictures, in its current condition? I'm not sure I'm ready to pull the entire engine apart. I can manage the heads but if it's not worth just doing the heads then maybe it's best just to do the swap?

 

I just finished a similar job today, namely, replace the intake valves on the front head.
Here are the numbers.
Diagnostics and head removal - 4.5 hours
Replacing the intake valves and all valve seals - 6 hours.
Installing the head and replacing the timing belt kit - 11 hours.
The book gives 9 hours for the whole job.
+ $500 for parts from Rock Auto and a Honda dealer.
The rest is up to you.

 

Yeah I think I need to talk to the machine shop now that I know atleast the valves need replacing. Not sure what it's going to run me exactly but it seems like it's still cheaper for me to go that route, Atleast some of that labour is in my capabilities. I could use some advice on if this engine is going to be okay with just a head rebuild though, I'm not too concerned about my time at the moment.

 

how'd it end up going? where abouts are you located btw?

 

Western canada. Found an engine that had the warranty ring repair already done in a running car and got the engine swapped but not out of the woods. Working on getting to the bottom of some codes that are being thrown, might have an electrical issue somewhere. P0123 P0223 P2138 P2176. Car won't come out of limp mode right now.

 

I finally got the car back on the road. I went ahead and dropped in a z6. New timing
belt and all the other maintenance done while
it was out. Had a bunch of codes when I first started up but cleared them and they haven’t returned. Really haven’t noticed the decrease in power either. Thanks for the help guys.

 

Was it a simple drop in? I may have to go the same route with my j37 in the future (burning oil). I know i should use the accessories from my j37.

 

You used the stock original J37 ECM and harness, for the z6?

 

Did you have to reprogram ECU or did you use the ECU from donor vehicle? Did you have to reprogram immobilizer? Does SH-AWD still work and no throwing any torque codes? Was is z6 from Accord or J35z3 from FWD TL ?

 

I wonder how everything you asked could be related to an engine replacement? I especially liked the question about the immobilizer. The answer is no to all of these questions.

 

Well if you replaced J37A4 with J35Z6 you have smaller injectors ,displacement , no exhaust vtec and ECU would expect those values wouldn't it?
If you would use J35's ECU I'd think you'd need to reprogram the immobilizer ?
with original ECU now getting less power is it throwing check engine ? I read somewhere AWD and engine performance are intergrated and exhaust VTEC solenoid needed to be tricked and front cam sprocket needs to be put from J37
I my 09 TL i know pretty any kind od cel or vsa abs will disable SH-AWD

 

You are wrong about everything.
1. These injectors are universal; they were installed on almost all Acura V6 engines from 2009 to 2020. Even if they were different, you wouldn't need a genius to simply swap them with the right ones.
2. The VTEC on these engines is activated by a single solenoid; it's a very primitive and simple system.
3. There's nothing in the engines that can measure power. One sensor measures air, the second measures proper combustion of the fuel-air mixture, and the third one checks to make sure these two don't completely destroy the engine.
4. A 5% reduction in engine displacement will result in LFT of -5%, while for PCM +-10% is normal.

 

ok , let's assume you're correct , what about I keep reading something about the need to swap front camshaft sprocket from J37 and something about the sensor that needs to be replaced in order for it to work correctly ?

 

Why change 100% identical things? For what purpose?

 

i don't know what the differences are as I've only worked on J37's and haven't seen J35