How is the gas consumption around town, any better?

 

Question to you who have ktuner for long time now. Is there any issue with car reliability so far? Thanks

 

I've only had mine for about 10K but so far it's smooth as butter. No problems whatsoever. I haven't had a proper tune yet though - just the base map they provided. I want to say my mileage actually improved but it could be placebo. Seems I'm getting closer to 27-28 on average whereas I was almost never getting above 25 before.

 

Thanks for the reply. So did you gain any power by the base map? What about the shift point? Is your car stock? I'm planing to buy the tuner and install the base map as well since my car is completey stock. Thanks again.

 

Finally did it... Love the results this was done on AWD DynoJet

No did not disconnect the shaft to do this run.....

6 Speed Fully Bolt on..... with a K&N drop in filter.

4th gear pulls...

Etune first then dyno tune afterwards..giving thank @JAVITUNED for working this magic....

 

Yes, largely in torque though, which I was pretty happy about since I tend to stay in the lower RPM ranges. 2K-4K RPM saw significant improvements. I use the paddle shifters 98% of the time so I can't comment on shift points. I don't think K-tuner messes with the transmission.

Some have reported some difference with a tune @ stock but it's not as pronounced as with mods already installed.

I have most bolt ons - RV6 HFPC's, XLR8 J-pipe, magnaflow mufflers, 3.7L IM and TB and lightweight crank pulley.

 

Does any body know if there are specific ECU model numbers that are not supported by ktuner? I see ktuner website giving a range for the supported ECU. Also, how can I get my ECU model number?

 

nice numbers, what was the base etune numbers before and after?

 

Want to add I also have gotten my car recently tuned by Xenocron in NY.
2010 SH 6mt
Fully Bolted on Ktuner and hit nearly identical numbers 280hp and 250tq on an all wheel drive dyno.
Mods are
Rv6 HFPC
Rv6 JPipe
XRL8 Quad Exhaust

Getting a retune done soon as I am now adding

Lightweight Wheels
Lighter Tires
XLR8 lightweight Crank Pulley
XLR8 Lighteweight alternator Pulley
Drop-in Filter /Resonator delete and Velocity stack in Bumper
Increasing RPM redline
Smoothing out throttle map a bit
Setting up 2 step


Ill post up after my retune, its still about 2 months out I would say.

 

From the KTuner website for 09-14 TL:

Part numbers for usable ECUs include:

3.7 MT
37820-RK2-A01 through A13

3.5 AT
37820-RK1-A51 through A78

3.7 AT
37820-RK2-A71 through A96

I haven't heard of anyone who's had any problems with their ECU not being compatible. I have no idea how to find the ECU number though. Possibly on the ECU itself? It's located in the front passenger side of the engine compartment. I've never removed the plastic cover but I'd bet if you did and looked directly on the ECU itself the number would be there somewhere.

 

Nice post. They're about 20 min from me and I've got the same bolt ons minus the HFPC. Considering them at the moment. Who did you work with on the tune? Did you have any numbers before? Thank you for the info. Looking forward to the next update.

 

you are right found it thanks.

 

Honestly, don't know... but I happy with the outcome. Only way I prefer to tune a car is in that manner.

 

Be careful with those lightweight pulleys make sure you do your research on them. Also, our stroke is pretty long and higher RPM weakens the stock rods. Research on that as well.

 

Yes I did run into an issue with a 2012 FWD... but it was fixed within 24hrs.

 

I've started an Etune with Kenny from Turbogixxer yesterday. I'll post "results" as we work on the tune. I put results in parentheses since I won't be dynoing the car until after the tune is complete, so any change will be purely via butt dyno and subjective perception. So far he's provided a base map based on my existing mods which has really lit up the car. I know, that won't allow a baseline to start from. But considering that a stock FWD TL usually dyno's around 230-240hp or so (at the wheels), the final number will at least give an idea of what a fully bolted and tuned FWD TL can put out.

 

 

Will do. He provided me an updated tune today. I'll be flashing the ECU after work then logging the drive home and getting it to him by tonight.

 

I received two other tune iterations in the last few days. Car is running great. It might have been covered, but be prepared to provide a data log to your tuner with a 3rd or 4th gear run @ WOT from 2000RPM or so to redline. The kicker is that you'll get well over 100MPG in 3rd and hit the speed limiter (around 125 MPG I think?) in 4th before you get anywhere close to 6000 RPM. I had to go out to a long stretch of rural road to make those runs. You'll want to plan on how to accomplish that without getting busted for speeding. It was pretty fun though. That's the first time I've hit the speed limiter in this car. It was pretty knarly how fast you go from idle to hitting the speed limiter. It was still pulling strong in 4th, even when over 100MPH. It took probably 2-3 minutes in my '07 TSX on that same road.

 

 

Day to day driving doesn't seem to be impacted that much. Mileage is the same and there's no difference in cruising. Thing is, I don't know what difference I'd expect with basic city driving and cruising so I suppose that doesn't matter.

Low end torque was already pretty decent with the base map. If I had to guess, I'd say it's slightly improved since then. But not night and day. The biggest difference has been >3500 RPM or so. There's no doubt that higher RPM response has been significantly improved. I don't normally "live" in the higher RPM's since I shoot for economy. But if I need to pass, or just get on it for some reason, it's nice to know it's there. I suppose that's the case with any car.

He just sent me a new tune with slightly different timing. I'll be installing it today then providing some additional data to him this evening.

Edit - I have the end-user unit.

 

Speed Limiter should be removed.. In Mexico my ETUNE WOT 4TH gear was 130mph........................

 

So I have a 2013 AT 3.5 TL and have had the ktuner on since December but i can not figure how to get the speed cap at 120 removed. i was told that it would get removed when i reflash the car with the tuner but its still there. any form of help would be nice!

 

Did you update the software?

 

Yes i have the newest up to date software

 

Very interesting.. I think Ktuner need to chime in on this. Not sure if it's a FWD issue or what.

 

 

I confirmed that the speed limiter is indeed disabled, but that 4th gear will only go up to around 125MPH, even though it hasn't yet hit redline. However, after going into 5th, you can continue to accelerate. I'm not sure why the fuel cutoff kicks in while in 4th gear before redline.

 

I think I experience this with 5th gear on the dyno lol.

 

So my car is a 2012 SH-AWD 6MT. The only mod is HFPC's. Got a dyno tune Saturday - don't have the graphs yet but will try to post when I get them. Three takeaways:
1) A fair amount of power was found in steady-state 2000-3000 RPM cruising, which should help MPG's.
2) Similarly, tuner found A LOT of power at WOT on the low cam - 20-30 whp in the 2500 - 4000 rpm range.
3) Max hp number went up by 13 whp as compared to the "canned" kTuner tune for PCD/HFPC only.

Work was done on a "heartbreaker" dyno dynamics dyno with power going down front and rear, I can tell you my raw whp number but I'm sure we'd all be disappointed

 

^ Sweet. So you did a dyno before and after I presume?

I've only done one tune update with Kenny at Turbogixxer this week. I've had my snow tires on most of the last week or so. They're only have a T speed rating which is about 118MPH. I try not to go over 75MPH or so on them since they wear faster with higher speeds. Since I have to get up around 130MPH for the WOT runs I only do it with the Conti DWS 06's on, which are W rated (168MPH).

Our snow clears up on Monday after which I'll be doing one daily. It sounds like he's pretty close to finishing so I'll schedule a dyno in a couple weeks to see where I sit. If I can get 280WHP I'll be pretty happy. That would be around a 15%-20% increase over stock with bolt-ons and a tune.

 

Correct.

 

Excellent! Keep in mind knock control is reset after a flash, whereas we bring knock control down to a nominal settled value before testing, so it's 100% comparable and repeatable. That means power will be down immediately after a flash without letting knock control settle, which does make it easy to gain power by adding timing back in, etc.

 

I worked with Chris Harris and I believe John who did most of the tuning with Chris advising and checking in with me.

Xenocron is awesome.

I would do the HFPC or PCD before tuning, it gains you good power.

 

Our Engines our internally balanced, the rubber you see on the crank pulley is not for balancing but NVH , noise, vibration, harshness.
This goes for most Honda Engines including K.

Lighter Crank pulleys as long as stock diameter and not underdriven will only yield benefits from less rotational mass and weight.

Rev limiter increase on the other hand can be dangerous, the engine should not be spinning into redline and past frequently without a head package at least.
I intend to just increase it a tad but still stay in the safe zone or what I would consider the safe zone.

I recently upgraded to Ktuner 1.2 and am waiting on my pulleys, timing belt kit since my stock components are now 8 yrs old but not even 60k miles and figuring out what route I want to take with the stock intake.

I want to incorporate a velocity stack and a true cold air setup using stock components and removing the resonator.

Then Ill retune, for now enjoy my new suspension and wheel setup.

Fortune auto 500 and Miro 111 wrapped in 255 continental dsw-06

 

Looks good

Agreed on the crank pulley. I've spent hours scouring the web for user experiences on the crank pulley and I've come to the conclusion that the chance of long term damage or wear in our engine is very minimal, or even nonexistent. I read about 10 different instances where various engines were torn down after anywhere from 60K-200K miles with lightweight pulleys. There were a number of issues with some Subaru boxer engines and a few Honda I-4's. However, of all the J-series V6's I read about (mostly 2G TL's and some Honda Accords), none had any significant wear or problems. This leads me to believe that the nature of the engine (internally balanced V configuration and shorter crank than an I-4) results in less of a need for a higher weight pulley which would otherwise absorb some resonance.

 

Does reflashing the car delete/reset the oil life % and reset the maintenance minder as if it's a new car? Or the reflash has nothing to do with this? Are the maintenance minder data even saved in the ECU Or the cluster? Thanks

 

Reflashing has not reset my oil life % or maintenance minder. I'm not sure where that data is stored but pulling the battery cable and/or flashing does not reset it.

It does reset the ECU which results in all sensors (knock, fuel trim, etc.) also resetting and going through the "learning" process. However, that's a good thing since each iteration of a tune should start with a fresh ECU.

 

There is actually video clips on here and also on driveaccord.net in which some guys did experience Issues with certain lightweight pulleys giving a loud whining like sound. Hence part of the reason a few of us did not get this. Some had the issues some did not.. but for me, it was worth it just to rev quicker.. But nothing wrong with trying still I guess lol.

 

If the ECU resets from a battery disconnect would you have to upload your tune again? I'm thinking no.

If you're using the KTuner base maps is there any benefit in resetting the ECU and doing an idle re-learn right before uploading one of the base tunes or will it not make a difference?