i got a check engine like the other on my car. so i took it down to advanced to get the code read and the guys laughs and says there are 14 codes!!! my dash looks like a christmas with all the lights on.

the codes are as followed:
P02770- torque converter, clutch circuit high
P0974- shift solenoid A, control circtuit high
P0962- pressure control solenoid A control circuit high
P0980- shift solenoid C, control circuit high
P0970- pressure control solenoid C, control circuit low
P02640- rocker arm actuator A, bank 1 circuit high
P0498- EVP emission vent, vIv/sol malf circuit low

all these codes were thrown twice thats why there were 14. the system could not clear the codes.

i called the dealership and they said i would have to bring it in, in order for them to see whats actually going on. the only problem is that the dealership is over 70 miles from where i live and it would cost an arm and a leg to get it towed over there.

also the car drives like its stuck in 5th gear and has no other gears. no acceleration whats so ever.

any thoughts guys???
TIA!

 

i also have a supercharger if that info is needed

 

Sounds like ether the trans is shot or your trans computer is shot...

 

any idea what parts and labor would run for either of those issues?

 

The trans will default to second gear if there's a problem with the electronics.

It's highly unlikely there's an issue with the trans itself with that many codes. I would start looking for a bad ground around the trans and check the battery connections.

 

I have no idea what labor would be for ether but to me it sounds like a control module issue or like IHC said a bad ground some where. The should be a ground from the module to the body. I also would find all the ground you can and clean them. i did that when i bought my car.

 

thanks for the input guys! i checked all grounds and they all seem to fine..i guess im gunna trailor it to the dealership instead of getting it towed since its cheaper

 

my guess is rats got a hold of the harness. happens alot in cold weather. keep us updated. those are all codes that come up as soon as first start up. once pcm runs its self check of all systems. and reason why codes can not be cleared.(well they can but come right back on once pcm self test)

 

Taking a supercharged car to the dealer would be a bad idea. All they will do is blame everything on the supercharger and start swapping everything out until something goes right and in the end it will cost you a fortune. Can't you take it to a performance shop?

 

Dealership said my transmission is gone. Estimate=$4,050!!!! wtf

 

That's typical of a dealer. Circuit codes are not thrown for mechanical problems. There's an electrical issue with your car.

 

qft.

 

What do u guys suggest I do than?

 

more info please. ask to speak to the technician or take it to another dealer. also try looking under the hood around the trans area for signs of nesting critters... take pics vids give us something to go by. thanks
or a young eager tech. probably after pulling all these codes he rushed to parts for an estimate before even looking under the hood.

 

I have a similar issue, what ended up fixing your problem?

 

It is unlikely you will get a response from the OP, this thread is over 10 years old and it doesn't look like he's logged in for nearly 9 years.

 

it would be best to describe your issues...
as it may differ from the Original posters.

so, explain what's going on in your case, please

 

sorry for the long detail but I think it’s important to know.

Replaced transmission with a low mileage (under 100K) transmission last fall and used the TCU from the donor car the transmission came out of.
At that time I replaced 2 solenoids on top closest to the crossover manifold/intake & transmission filter.
Refilled with Honda ATF.
I replaced all motor mounts and transmission mounts. Coil Over struts, Speed sensors, upper and lower ball joints, inner & outer tie rods & sway bar links.
New power steering pump, rotors, ceramic brake pads (front & rear), cam shaft position sensor, PCV valve & oring. New autocraft battery.
Valve cover gaskets, adjusted valves to factory spec.
Water pump, gasket, crossover manifold gasket, thermostat, timing belt, tensioner. Coil packs and spark plugs. New oil pump, oil pump gasket, O-rings, oil pump filter, front & rear crank seals.
Oil filter housing gasket/screen.
O2 sensor bank 2 down stream. O2 sensor bank 1 upstream. Old codes stored so just replaced them because I removed 3rd Cat, all mufflers and resonator and straight piped with dynomax racebullet resonator.

After all of this was completed we took it to firestone (I know, first mistake but only place around here with lifetime alignment) to have it aligned. Honda was getting expensive.

All was well and no issues for 3 months.
My son received a new stereo system for Christmas. I removed 80% of interior to run all the wiring. No ground wire issues or open circuits.
At the same time, since rear struts accessible, I put in new.
Around the end of Jan my son had a hard curb check, bent his rim. He replaced the rim & drove for about a month.

Sub zero temps hit and driver side was making loud creaking noise when turning the steering.
I replace the driver side half shaft.
He took it in to have a 4 wheel alignment. They said they could not adjust right rear because passenger side-rear-upper-control arm bad. On his way home he was coming up our street and all 5 lugs came off with wheel getting jammed up into the wheel well.

I personally put that wheel on and torqued to 80ft lbs. Firestone only 3-4 miles from our house so Less than 50 miles and did not need re-torqued yet.
Of course they said they don’t remove wheels to do alignments but they have every time I’ve had our truck, wife’s car and this TL. They bring me out to show me some supposed issue with a ball joint or A-Arm that was a brand new part I just replaced, lol.

During this time my son found 2 Ford focus ST2 recaro race seats. So we decided to change tan interior to all black to go with the race seats. Got a set of donor seats, and cut seat rails off, wiring harnesses, latch/buckle side (black to match new seats). Memory module and seat position sensors.
Found another wrecked donor car and got all black interior and installed.

Lots of reading schematics and reading other threads, I was able to hook up existing airbags in the recaro seats and seat position sensors as well as belt latch sensors.

Replaced all wheel studs on front left. Torqued wheel to spec. Started car, put in gear and green drive light came on. VSA (which I expected the VSA to be on due to wheel coming off.

Now I have the following transmission codes:

P2770- Torque converter clutch circuit high
P0974- Shift Solenoid A control circuit high
P0980- Shift Solenoid C control circuit high
P0962 Pressure Control solenoid A control circuit low
P0970 Pressure control solenoid control circuit low
P2649 Rocker Arm Actuator Control circuit high bank 1

I have checked all solenoid connections and they are all making good connections. Main battery ground wire making good contact. Acceleration pedal put back together properly.

I did check transmission fluid and it was low. Got it to running temp and fans to cycle. Then added Honda ATF.

Looking for ideas.

From other threads I see that replacing shift Solenoid A has fixed the issue and another guy replaced throttle position sensor and that fixed all his issues.

I disconnected battery for 5 min and then hooked back up. I let it cycle again, checked fluid and I took it out for a drive.

A little loss of power and does not want to shift up to 5th & 6th gear. Does not shake or vibrate but it does stall a slight moment when slowing down to pull in and turn around, going from drive to reverse and back to drive.

 

Bunch of codes, all relate to wiring going to PCM but otherwise seem to be all over the place. Most of those things complete circuit by engine ground. By just glancing over schematics I would

- check ground G101 (on thermostat housing), check battery cables, positive is known to corrode internally and looking good outside, for the test you can put jumper cable on the negative and on the engine. Maybe one of engine ground cables give up.
- check if PCM is not getting any water on it from clogged AC drain hose
- check for mice damage to the harness

 

I had already checked for mice and critters and did not find any of that.

I will do the other things today, I really appreciate the advice!!!

 

Agree with peter6, put a jumper cable from battery negative directly to the engine/transmission.

Maybe check voltage drops from the battery while the car is on. All should be <0.5V

1. Battery positive to the fuse box
2. Battery negative to the chassis
3. Battery negative to the engine
4. Battery negative to the transmission

 

Both of you were correct!!! I first tried the negative to engine & tranny and then pulled the g101 and it was not corroded and seemed to be making contact. I used a battery brush to get into the thread on the thermostat and to clean up the grounds going to the ECU. Cleaned up the 10mm bold and washer really good on the wire wheel on bench grinder. A little sand paper to where the washer makes contact and to my amazement, all codes are gone!!!! Thanks peter6 & Synchro!!!