ravingstylez

Hey guys this mgith be the 100th time ive posted htis but noone answers me ...Please someone help me...

Everytime i drive my car it has 3 moods.

1 mood it wants to just get up and go the torque and hp are there and the tires spin throguh first when i punch it off the line

the 2nd mood is the forst mood going bye bye and you can slowly feel it vanishing and the car starts to sound different like its lagging and its sluggish

3rd mood IS THE BIGGEST PAIN IN THE ASS EVER, it seems the hwole car wants to be 120hp with 0 torque.. it doesnt move when u floor it doesnt spin tires or chirp at WOT and the brakes even feel sluggish the car lags with everythign and sounds liek shit.. CAN SUM1 please tell me what this is PLEASE...IS IT MY ECU and can i fix it becasue i todl my dealer and they just gave it back to me 2 days ago ..Someone please give me a solution.. Besides dry gas becasue i heard water in youre lines does this but i used dry gay 2wice already and the samew htign is happening. Thank You

subinf

maybe you need to get on your dealers ass about the problem.

MisterLinus

Your typing too fast but,

"Aoccdrnig to rscheearch at Cmabrigde Uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoetnt tihng is taht the frist and lsat ltteer be at the rghit pclae. The rset can be a toatl mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit a porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae the huamn mnid deos not raed ervey lteter by istlef, but the wrod as a wlohe."

Interesting huh?

I don't know what's wrong with your car though.

jmbnova

hadn't seen that in awhile...

CL Platano

Alot of guys lately have noticed that, it came to the conclusion of bad gas. Try using an octane booster to see if that solves your problem. Look for a post that Blktl1 made about that about a month ago.

Inaccurate

How many miles on the odometer ?

Before the first oil change, this is how my new TL behaved. After I did the first oil change at 2150 miles (did the oil change myself), the car was like a completely different car. Immediately after the oil change, the car now had mucho more torque at low RPM. And, the higher RPM was now too awesome... The engine ran thru first gear (auto) faster than the tach could keep up with the engine spin.

I would not normally post this info because I know it sounds unbelievable. There are only two logical reasons that I can think of to explain this new powerband.

1) When I reset the MID to reset the oil-life, it triggered some hidden code in the computer that I was no longer in break-in period. The engineers could had made the engine to be de-tuned until after the first oil change to assist in the break-in.

2) The "special" factory-fill oil was holding back the engine. I replaced the factory-fill with 10w-30 Mobil1. After the first oil change, the car ran "like it wanted to kill someone".

kuzdu

it's the weather, everyone cars goes through this, somedays mine feels faster than other. it's because of all the sensors on our cars.

GUMP

Agreed, the last 3 cars I've owned..they each had a different mood depending on the day or week. I notice some days my car flies and feels great. Others, it feels a little sluggish. It's probably weather , humidity, or gas. It's no big deal to me.

barry stevens

I too have experienced this moodiness of the car, but not in a bad way. I have found myself driving along and really just doing the speed limit or even under and somehow content with that, and thats not like me. Other days the car has more zip and performance. I am not saying that the zip isn't there on the slow days, just that i don't mind it. I also know what u mean by the engine lugging, almost as though it has gone into a higher gear at a lower speed. I know cars have something built into the computer to react the way the driver drives and resets itself every 10 or so restarts. You can try turning the ignition on and off a series of times and see if the cars comp resets itself.

sebounet2005

Had the same problem i'm complaining for most than one year

here the list of parts that were changed

CLean catalytic converter 2 or 3 times

Update and correct ECU

Oxygene sensor

Knock sensor

Transmission

the issue appear when the weather is hot and engine hot, it's like if you start in 2nd gear and you are unable to make the wheels squeals even with VSA off. Very frustrating. Above 4000 rpm everythig is fine after.

None of the above correction give good results.


2 weeks ago they changed a temp meter that had a bad reading ( 5 deg celcius above the reality) , untill now every thing seems fine. It seems that this bad reading put the car like in safe mode.

I'm sure i'm not the only one with this issue, it should have a TSB on this.

ravingstylez

Thank you fro all of the replies guys..

I have tried octane booster and dry gas ..No dice..
sebounet you described it exactly it sliek im in second gear off the line and BLAH nothing untill 4500 rpms..
When its in this mood there is no zip..
Has nothign to do with weather becasue it happens when its 45 degrees and dry .....
But it does seem worse when its hot out regardless every car isnt as fast but it egts real bad..Is changing the temp meter somethign the dealer has to do? if nto please explain i would love to get rid of this problem ..

sebounet2005

It's a temp sensor, on the bill it's written sensor assembly
ref : ACU 37880-PDA-E01

replace IAC SENSOR

that's all i have. Your wright about exterior temp. BUt it occurs when the engine become very hot and it happens quicker when the temp outside is higher.

DId a tes today, i drove it very hard, exterior temp was 26 deg celcius or 79 F, and everything is fine it's like a rocket and was able to overspin the tires every time. Not really my goal but it means untill now everything is ok.

A_UFO

Thanks for the part number. Using the part number, I was able to find that this Air Temp Sensor on the intake manifold. It is part number 12 in the diagram.

Diagram of Intake Manifold

Therefore, if the sensor is not accurate, then it is providing the ECM (Engine Control Module) the wrong information.

For those experiencing this problem, what year, navi/non-navi and miles do you have for your model?

I am curious if the problem is on certain models or when the "failure" seems to start.

CUNextTuesday

If the warmer weather seems to make the car feel sluggish, would a CAI help this?

A_UFO

No. The reason is the air temp sensor that attaches to the manifold is not properly calibrated to read the air temperature. The information that the ECM is receiving is false variables. The ECM is changing who knows what to compensate for the false air temperature reading.

sebounet2005

Mine is a 2005 TL , Auto , Non Navi. Purchase date October 2004.

Issue begin around 12500 miles, acually i have 37500 miles.

JDM5lugHatch

Yeah this is a big problem with the Auto's. I have it as well. I am working on installing a tranny cooler which should actually prolong the life of the tranny and prevent this problem from ever happening again. I hope to have everything finalized and installed in a couple weeks.

ravingstylez

so if i tell my dealer that the problem is the temp air sensor? hell understand?

A_UFO

Why not print this thread and give it to your Service Advisor and ask him to check the part in question?

sebounet2005

The issue is that sometimes the mecanics are to proud to accept a fix that is coming from a non mecanic customer. I think it's easy to test this sensor, it's easy to reach, easy to change and cheap. So it's worth a try

Actually always good, but i should avoid to test it because my brand new tires won't last for a long time.

I've done 1000 miles since the repair.

What i'm curious about is what a higher temp reading will change in the ECU or whatever to make the car sluggish. Was it on emmission control ?

A_UFO

LOL regarding customer telling the Service Advisor what the fix is to the problem. When I advised my Service Advisor that there is a TSB 05-033 to replace a 7.5 Amp fuse with 10 Amp fuse to avoid losing the function of power mirrors, the inside auto dimming mirror, the power seat position memory, and the windshield
washer if the fluid was frozen. The washer moter would temporary overload the 7.5 A fuse and cause it to blow.

The Service Advisor responded, "Having any problems with the fuse?" and I said no that the TSB was a preventative measure.

I have no idea what the ECM was changing due to the false higher air temp reading at the intake manifold.

type-s09

i am having the same problems on a second gen...anyone know a cause or what the model number of the sensor is? There seems to be tons of sensors on the manifold or throttle body...which one will help do the trick?

fatalglitch

My 2006 TL Auto w/ NAV is doing this exact same thing. I have 17,000 miles on her now.

ravingstylez

HAHAHAHA my dealer will nto replace it for me ... THere liek we hooked it up to the run the diagnostics and it says the car is ifne .. SO i was ballistic and they were liek wat do u want us to fix if its runnign fine ... I told him tkae it out for a ride and he wa sliek its just fine Becasue of course it was tires spun it was responsive ....DAMMIT never the prioblem when i am at the dealer.. How much is the sensor cuz it looks liek im just going to have to buy it and be liek look replace htis for me

sebounet2005

The part is around 30 dollars and i think it doesn't take a lot of time to change.

Drive it hard before bringing your car to the dealer and keep the engine running while you are waiting for the mecanic come to try it with you.

Last time i offered $100 to the mecanic guy if he could meke the tire squeal it was imppossible even with vsa off.

Everything is fine after 3000 miles from the sensor exchange

JDM5lugHatch

I thought that this was the Transmission Temperature Sensor but it's not. It's the Intake Air Temp Sensor. Do you have an intake? I am curious as to how the Intake Air temp sensor would make the car sluggish. Especially since I was thinking that it would be a problem with the Transmission temp sensor.

sebounet2005

I have no modification on my car. When i asked what the sensor could do to make the car sluggish the answer was :

It modify the mix gaz and air so the engine isn't working properly because false reading of the sensor. He told me that some young people who want they car drive faster even when the engine is hot they took off the sensor and put it somewhere where the air is colder.

JDM5lugHatch

That's why I asked. The AEM intake has an option for moving the IAT sensor from the throttle body to the actual piping on the intake (a cooler spot) However, I have been experiencing this problem since practically new before my AEM even went on. If that's what's causing the problem then I'll spend the $40 or so to replace it and try it out.

Darkcyde024

iTrader: (1)

wow.. i thought it was just me! this might be my last acura!

ravingstylez

HAHAHAHAHA u guys ready for this .. ive been complaining baout the sluggishness for about 2 years now i go to my dealer i tell them to check my tranny and my sensor they say everythign is fine so i say why cant i make my tires squeel they go well mayeb youre driving youre car to hard thats why it wont squell anymor ei looked at the guy and said that complete bullshit i know civics with 120 000 mile son it that can make the tires squell sure enough they say simply cant be replace so i was pissed 1 week later im driving my ca ri make a u turn and CRSHHHHHHHHHHHHHH i hear this aweful noise my car does not move forward or back semmes like the tranny teethe simply shredded off the wheel .. so whenever i put it in drive i hear clcik click lcick click liek it wasnt to go sumwea but it cant now .... SO PISSED WITH THSI FUCKIN CAR ITS UNBELIVEABLE ive been to the dealer more times then ive had the car for so many miniscule problems and serious problems it just semmes liek its never fixed... Do you guys htink i can claim a lemon law on one the tranny has been replaced almost killed my self ... driveline vibration since ive had the car.... Now this i dunno what happend yet cuz they still have to tow my car into the shop i think its tranny or axel just cracked/.. Rattles seats missalighned seatbelt malfunction ... do you guys htink i can get a case? please get back to me

Brettg

What many intake air temp sensors do is retard the ignition timing with temp rise.
Hot intake air is much more prone to detonation (ignition knock) than cold air is.

My Jaguar shop manual listed the temp/degrees of retard that the sensor did.

Knock sensors can also retard the timing (thats what they do), but I dont know if they can go bad and false trigger.

Brett

JDM5lugHatch

Yeah I know that they can cause the engine to retard timing. The strange thing is that at least on my car it seems to me like it's not shifting into first gear at all. Seems like the car is taking off in 2nd and it doesn't go anywhere until you hit vtec. Once you've hit vtec then the car drives fine. Maybe it's just that it's pulling timing so much it just feels like it's not in first. I guess because the car is so sluggish from take off the tranny could be shifting it into 2nd gear early (as if you were driving the car slowly/normal) even though your at damn near full throttle.

I just figured the sensor that would have been replaced would have been the transmission temp. sensor and not the intake air temp sensor.

JDM5lugHatch

Ok, so I ordered the part that sebounet2005 listed (37880-PDA-E01) which is the Intake Air Temperature Sensor today. I hope to have it by the end of this week however, I probably won't see it until next week. I will keep everyone posted if this fixes the sluggish problem. With the weather we've had lately the car gets sluggish every single day.

sebounet2005

It always works for me, hope it will do it for you. It's worth trying with thee relatively cheap cost of this part.

For this kind of problem it could be


Transmission
bad reading or bad sensor (that doesn't light on the check engine)
BAd respons from throttle ( drive by wire system)
Bad opening on a valv somewhere in injection or in pipe
Problem with antipollution system, bad catalyser or stuck catalyser in pipe. Some people using octan booster seems to have this problem.

Faulty ECU

What else ??

Almost every of this items have been tested or changed for me.

It could the temp sensor from the transmission, i was suspected this one also, but if i was letting my car, with the engine running, on Park (waiting for my wife so almost 10 minutes, the same thing happen, sluggish, although i didn't change any gear.

Good luck, if it's work for you that's mean a lot of people have the same issue.

JDM5lugHatch

So how long has it been with the new sensor and no problems? Also how many times have you replaced this sensor?

sebounet2005

I have change it one time about 2 months ago and after 4000 miles and a lot of city driving everything is find not more sluggish TL, i burn the rubber every time i wan't and sometimes when i don't want.

JDM5lugHatch

Thanks for the info. This looks very promising! Guess I'll find out if it works next week.

JDM5lugHatch

UPDATE

So I got the new IAT sensor in yesterday and installed it. So far so good yesterday was pretty humid as well and the car seemed to be more responsive than before even after idling for a long time with the A/C on. I was able to spin the tires with the VSA off going up a hill on a hot and humid day with the A/C on. I'll report back after a week or so of driving. However, this may be the fix you need. The old sensor has a different number on it compared to the new one. The color of the actual temp probe is different as well. Instead of a brown probe like the old one the new one is white. So this could be an updated part.

sebounet2005

Good newz hope it will last. I didn't see the parts so i can't comment on the color or whatever.

I think it's good if you could make the tire squeal. Did your dealer test the old one before taking it off and see if the measured temp was wright ?

If it works, internet and forum like this show their real strength. There is not only porn and viruses.

JDM5lugHatch

I was lighting my heavy ass 19's up all night after work with the A/C on at that. Definitely think there is something wrong with the older sensors. I never took my car into the dealer for the sluggishness. I hate taking cars to the dealer especially if it's a simple fix like this. I would rather out of pocket $35 to fix a problem in 10 seconds versus leaving it at the dealer for a day just for them to be unable to repeat the symptoms. For the most part dealers are a waist of time and energy. If it's something major then I will leave it to the dealership to fix it. This is an easy fix and anyone can do it. However, it's only been a day of testing and the real tests will come in the following weeks.