Master and Slave cylinder replacement question

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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 01:52 PM
  #1  
coujac's Avatar
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From: maryland
Master and Slave cylinder replacement question

I have a 2005 6MT with 192,000 and I think the clutch is finally showing wear. I got a price of 700 labor to replace the clutch and I can buy the parts (acuraoemparts.com). The shop is telling me that I should replace both the master and slave clutch cylinders. I would like to save the extra labor costs so I am planning on doing the work myself. I'm not even sure if the cylinders need to be repalced.

Has anyone changed these cylinders and if so would you say its an ok DIY job?

Thanks, Paul
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 09:46 PM
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invalidalias's Avatar
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So You're thinking the clutch needs to be replaced. What is leading you to think this. If its the clutch then its the clutch, flywheel, flexplate, bearing and so on. Are the clutch cylinder and slave both leaking? Then you would need to replace them. doesn't sound right if you ask me. If you decide to change the cylinders yourself they are quit easy. Need a partner to help bleed. Check inside the cab on the firewall and see if there is fluid coming inside. If not then your master cylinder should be fine. Wouldn't hurt to run some new fluid through there. Are you doing the clutch yourself?

Another, Paul
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 08:57 AM
  #3  
coujac's Avatar
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From: maryland
Hey Paul,

The pedal goes to the floor and doesn't return until I pump it. I actually haven't looked for any fluid leaks yet. I am not going to do the clutch replacement. I have a shop that will do it for $700.00. I am going to change the cylinders on my own. I ordered the parts already. Since the car has almost 200,000 miles and it has to last I'm just going to replace everything.
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 08:59 AM
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if the clutch is going to the floor then it could be that the master cylinder is bad, or you just need to re-bleed.

I would try bleeding the system first, before replacing the clutch master cylinder.
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 03:30 PM
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justnspace has a point. its very easy to bleed. Also should you need to replace the master cylinder its easiest to leave the lines connected at the cylinder and unbolt it from the bulk head and remove the cylinder and lines as a unit from the trans assy. I would think its very likely that the clutch would be bad esp at 200k
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 03:31 PM
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^my clutch went out at 35k miles.

a combination of the previous owner, test drivers and myself contributed to its death.
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 12:04 AM
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99vtecaccord's Avatar
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I'm having the exact same problem with my clutch pedal. A few places told me it could be my pressure plate and others have said it may be the master cylinder.

I replaced my clutch with a Stage 3 ClutchMaster 15,000 miles ago. It drives fine, but at times the clutch pedal goes to the floor and doesnt return. To fix the problem, I would manually slip my foot behind the pedal and raise it back up.
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 08:43 PM
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johnny3's Avatar
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Is the M.C. full?
Is the slave cyl. leaking?
Sounds like the M C is low or empty.
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 08:21 AM
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I had a master clutch cylinder problem in my 2005 acura tsx 6mt a good way to tell if that is going is the clutch pedal engaging real low possibly problems shifting into either 1st or reverse. if you try to bleed the cylinder nothing will come out. even in a good cylinder some amount of fluid will come out. with the master cylinder going bad it causes the pedal to engage low causing the gears to not fully seperate.
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 01:31 PM
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SouthernBoy's Avatar
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From: Suburb of Manassas, VA
Originally Posted by chase791
I had a master clutch cylinder problem in my 2005 acura tsx 6mt a good way to tell if that is going is the clutch pedal engaging real low possibly problems shifting into either 1st or reverse. if you try to bleed the cylinder nothing will come out. even in a good cylinder some amount of fluid will come out. with the master cylinder going bad it causes the pedal to engage low causing the gears to not fully seperate.
These are symptoms of the pressure plate failing to fully disengage from the friction disk. If this happens and you start having to really force your transmission into a gear, you will create high levels of wear to the synchronizers of those gears.

BTW, gears never separate. They are always engaged in a constant mesh transmission.
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