Like I said, critical items like this.. it's better to stick to what's known.
But what the fuck do I know.. it's not like I work on this shit.

 

I think there is only so much we can do.

Safety < saving a buck...

 

e.g. tires

 

Interchangeability is common on the J series vehicles..
but I'd do your homework on the MDX app sensor and the TL.

Unless they have the same P/N.. Might look the same, might fit..
but the controls might be tuned differently.

Not saying that it is, but do your research and have confidence in it before taking it for a test.

 

Mdx sensor part # 37971RDJA01 from the junk yard was a success! Unrelated to the install, the left bolt that connects the larger frame to the car snapped off 🙃. It’s got a tight fit with the other bolt so I’m good for now but ideally would like to yank out that broken bolt. That’s for another day, thanks all! Hope this information helps others as well!

 

I was curious about part numbers too. I recall Acura and Honda having different part numbers for the same item. I’m guessing this is done so that prices can differ between the brands/models.

 

Hey everyone, I have a 2005 TL with just under 140,000 miles and have been experiencing sluggish/jerky acceleration for quite some time now, but never thrown any codes or experienced severe limp mode.

At first, I planned to adjust the throttle cable, but after reading through this entire thread and a few YouTube comments, it seems some have experienced issues if it is tightened too much. As an alternative (and for maintenance), I think I'm going to purchase a new OEM APP sensor instead and see if that fixes my issues. I can always adjust the cable later if needed. I'm just a bit leery of messing with the cable.

I also will be replacing my spark plugs as well.

PS - The OEM part 37971-RBB-003 is quite pricey lately! I'm seeing $220+ for this

 

Yes mine was sluggish for awhile and then one night just went out on me. The price did increase by about $100 over the last year or 2. Honestly the part is super easy to replace and once you get it hooked up and bolted down, just adjust the nuts on the slack of the wire. There isn't much you can screw up, just make sure the deflection of the wire is within spec.

 

So, I just replaced my APP sensor and noticed mild improvements. I tightened my throttle cable by one thread and it felt better. I tightened it by one more thread and we are golden . Idle is still great. My car drives wonderfully again

I am waaay too OCD and thorough when I do maintenance and this still only took me 25 min tops.

 

+++++1 on this fix.

My 07 would jerk regularly when accelerating from a stop light even when I lightly pressed the accelerator and it was really annoying. The dealer here in Ontario wanted 380$ for the part which was insane. Ended up ordering the part for amazon for half price and installed it in under 45 mins...the car drives beautifully and absolutely no issues - its been on for a week and I love driving my car again !

Few suggestions for some folks who may want to do this DIY:

- Pick up some extra 10mm bolts and put new ones on if you can - mine were really rusted so I ended up replacing most of them.
- The amazon part works fine - dont waste money at the dealer unless you get a really good deal.
- The throttle should be adjusted just as the thread above indicates - that gave me a much more responsive and predictable throttle response.
- Try resetting the ECU after you swap the sensor - let the card learn your driving style again - made a big difference !
-

 

I have a 2006 Acura TL with 138,000, and I just had my first experience with "limp mode". The check engine, VAS, and "Triangle !" lights all came on. Got the last 2 miles to destination. When I went to go home, just the check engine light on and drove fine. Had the codes read... P2138 ... which points directly to the APP sensor. I've located APP sensors for purchase, but I have a question ....

There's the "entire APP sensor", with the coiled "spring" and hooks for the tension wire and all (prices I've seen from $60 - $135).... then there is just the "plastic sensor part" (prices I've seen from $18 - $27). Does all the metal need replaced if it's in good shape and the car is normally driving great? A few people on a few threads have mentioned it's a 10 minute replacement, while others say it's 35 - 40 minutes. I'm thinking the 10 minute jobs were just the "plastic sensor". Yet, nobody has specifically addressed this that I've seen.

Can anyone shed some light on this before I start buying stuff?

Thanks in advance!

 

Posting to help any others out there that might run into this.... I got no responses to my July post question, but had the limp mode happen to me two more times, so needed to get it fixed. I found a video on You Tube where a guy replaces just the plastic sensor part only. So that's what I did. The only tricky part to the repair was the original one time use screws that were holding the thing in place. Have to cut into them to give yourself a notch to unscrew them with a flat head screw driver. Did it easily enough with my Dremel (metal blade and had my son hold the whole thing still for me. Takes seconds to cut the notch. Take a picture of the sensor position when removing. Placed the new one back in the same position (it comes with new screws). And done. Did it in early September and the car has been running perfectly ever since. Very cost effective repair ($25 for the part), and your not replacing a perfectly good metal coil and spring for no need. Hope this will help someone else.

 

 

I started having the limp mode issue a while back very rarely, maybe 6+ months ago. It started getting increasingly more frequent over the last month or two, especially with low throttle from a start or up hill. I tightened up the cable yesterday and it immediately felt like a new car; nice and responsive. Or at least until I got into the city after a ~20 minute drive. When I started it back up, it near immediately went back into limp mode and the responsiveness was gone, and it went into limp mode twice more on the way home (very unusual). I had tightened it nearly to the end so to make sure something hadn't shifted I eased off a bit. I haven't had it hit limp mode since, but it's still not responsive. So I'm giving it a couple days but I'm probably just going to replace the APP sensor, especially since the responsiveness is still junk and maaan that felt good (and I have an out of state trip in 2 weeks and want it handled).

 

Same part number for the TL? I get changes in behavior by adjusting the cable position but I'll go a week or two with no limp mode then 9 times in a row going a few miles and I'm very done with the issue and would like to swap some parts out.