jrican1219

Where should I pick up the part (read cheapest place ) and is there a DIY for it?

It seems like it should be easy but just like to do my research first.

I had a limp mode and it through a code relating to it, and it just went into limp mode again today on the wifey. A quick pull over, turn off, and turn back on cleared the issue, but left the check engine, but i want to get it taken care of.

Thanks to anyone that can help.

jrican1219

and to add to this.. where the heck it it? LOL

i figured it would be down by the pedal but it seems as though it goes through the firewall... so where is it and how do you access it? top of the engine bay or under the car?

NE14RoxCJ

Pull the plastic covers from between the strut brace and the firewall (they snap out like the other engine compartment covers.) You'll see the cable running along the firewall to an assembly on the passenger side firewall. It has a plastic cover with two 10mm bolts. Remove those and then you should see a couple more bolts holding the bracket to the strut brace and the firewall. Remove those and then work the cable off of the assembly. The new sensor doesn't come with the complete bracket, so you'll have to swap a few parts over. I found the cheapest place to order was from AcuraOEMparts.com @ ~$120. Enter your model info and search the entire list. It is listed as the "accelerator sensor". Yes, I've been looking too.

NE14RoxCJ

OK, I got my new APP sensor today and the install was as easy as I expected. The only difficulty was with the bracket. I couldn't get the whole assembly out between the firewall and the strut brace. No big deal, though. Only two bolts hold the sensor to the bracket. Turn the bracket over after removing the bolts that hold it on. Then remove the two bolts holding the sensor on and the pieces will come out individually.


This is the sensor before and after replacement.


Flip the sensor assembly over and remove the two 10mm bolts (the recessed ones) that hold the sensor to the bracket.


Loosen the nut holding the cable to the APP sensor. I adjusted the jam nut after I installed mine, so I wasn't worried about where the nuts were.


And this is the bracket after removal. Just set it aside after removing the sensor from it.

Place the bracket back behind the strut brace and bolt the sensor back on. Then bolt the whole assembly to the brace and firewall. I adjusted the slack out of the cable and tightened the jam nut.

See my other post for results.

Trooper04

good info, thank you!

NE14RoxCJ

BTW, I've got a few more miles on my new APP sensor and am proud to say the car is driving great. I never got a fault from mine because it would never "fail". For such a smart vehicle, I'm not impressed. But, I still love my car. And even more since I changed that sensor. Just wish it would have TOLD me what was wrong instead of me having to take a shot in the dark.

MWayne84

Im tempted to try this, my car hesistates really bad only when taking off and it doesnt do it every time i take off.. but in the most inconvienient times like when pulling out in fast traffic or crossing a mediun or something... it feels like it just drops down into a lower gear and looses power... doesnt jump and the rpms dont jump high... lol it goes like this
----__---___----

White Magic

Its been a few weeks since you've had the ap sensor replaced. How is your car driving now?

NE14RoxCJ

And a few more weeks since i checked this thread. Sorry bout that. The car is smooth and steady at cruise. The APP sensor was definitely causing that surging. BUT I still have that hesitation when accelerating. It's more noticable when accelerating hard, but not hard enough to make it downshift. Like pulling out of a tight curve still in 3rd gear and easing into the gas to just before it downshifts into 2nd. Like MWayne said ---__---__---. It feels like that. Driving normally, it feels a little sluggish at times, but not so bad. I'll start looking into that soon. I need to do the TB water bypass and see if that helps. It seems like a timing issue and I wonder if it is just because it's so damn hot. 100F is nothing around here. I've been seeing more like 104-107 on my little weather station at home. I bet the car is sucking in a bit hotter air than that.

White Magic

There is another thread that has similar performance issues.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=597082&page=4

so far i have read the possible culprits can be a faulty:

Throttle position sensor
App sensor
IAT sensor and
Knock sensor ( so far this replacement cured one member of his problems)

BukvaMan

did you fix yours yet or no.... ive heard about the knock sensor too and thinking to give it one more last chance if not i will be done with acura pretty soon...

NE14RoxCJ

Buka, I'm def. not to that point. I haven't fixed the acceleration problem, but it's not bad enough to make me swear off Acuras. I DID fix the problem that was giving me such a headache. The APP sensor was causing the throttle to be VERY erratic at cruise. It was really irritating. The acceleration problem is not that big of a deal since I'm not trying to race people all the time. If I were, I wouldn't have bought such a big car in the first place.

White Magic

Im probably going to change the knock sensors this weekend and see what happens.

bobbyc39

I've got the same issue on my 05' 6sp.... It feels like I'm taking off in 2nd gear sometimes and other times it flat out flies. After reading up on this stuff it seems like it might be the knock sensor but I'm NOT happy. It seems the more "technologically advanced" cars get, the more shit breaks. Let me know how you make out with the knock sensor.... I think that's probably my next route.

AGrushetsiy

This tutorial was great! I just finished changing my APP sensor like half an hour ago cuz my TL always went into "limp" mode. Some threads said it only takes like 15 min but today was like the hottest day in MA has ever had and i burned myself like a bunch of time so i took me almost 30 min but now the driving improved noticeably. I guess i'll have to wait and see if this really solved the issue though. Once again thanks for the walk-through

mc_holla

Thanks for the tutorial. I just completed this job and am anxious to see how my baby runs in the morning.

VanGuy

So do you think it's your motor mounts that would cause the stumbling upon acceleration? Did you change those already? I have the same acceleration problems (i.e. when accelerating to turn left from a dead stop) and stuttering acceleration from a stop upon first starting up the car after a few minutes or more of cooling down. That's two separate acceleration issues.

TLmaster7

very useful information, thanx a bunch guys

adrenaline

Hi Everyone, THX for the post. My 04 TL was occasionally going into the "limp" mode. I would have to pull over in the middle of a freeway. My oil change guy finally pulled the codes and acurazine helped me to confirm that it was a APP Sensor problem. After following this thread, I replaced (DIY) this sensor and my limping problem is 100% gone.


THX!!!

azzyork

before doing anything do i have to disconnect the battery?

nfnsquared

No:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...61&postcount=2

azzyork

thx, only been a day but so far so good *crossing fingers*

gogators22

OK guys, so my car apparently went into "limp" mode yesterday for the first time. One member on here told me it is the app sensor, but the guy who sold it to me said he replaced the throttle body sensor not too long ago. When I have the code pulled, will it tell me which part I need, or am I going to have to guess?

How much is each sensor, and where should I buy them?

p.s. not thrilled about this because I just bought my car last month.

Also, how often will this limp mode occur if I don't replace anything?

nfnsquared

Not sure what you mean by "throttle body sensor". There is no such thing. There is the throttle body, the throttle position sensor (integral to the TB), and the throttle actuator module (under dash, passenger side).

And yes, the code will help make a determination.

gogators22

sorry, meant tp sensor... and I just got the code pulled and it said tp/ap sensor, so since the previous owner put a new tp sensor on, I'm assuming I need a new ap sensor... advance auto sells one for $280... where can I find the best price?

nfnsquared

So he replaced the entire TB? The TP sensor is integral to the TB and the whole TB unit needs to be replaced if the TP sensor goes bad.

What was the exact code #?

$280 is way too much for an APP sensor. But need the code # first to know for sure it's the APP sensor

gogators22

he said the throttle position sensor was replaced for around $250. He didn't replace the entire throttle body. Idk the code #, I just saw that the code read "throttle position sensor/accelerator pedal sensor"

so what does that mean?

nfnsquared

There are multiple codes for both, that's why you need the code #.

gogators22

damn, I guess I'll have to wait till it happens again, because the check engine light is off now, and I have driven the car over 50 miles since it went away.

cust0mx

Even though the CEL is off, the code should be stored in the computer and you may be able to pull it. You can find the app sensor for $125 online. I replaced mine two weeks ago and it took about an hour

gogators22

my question is: if the previous owner replaced the throttle position sensor, but the code I pulled said "throttle position sensor/acceleration pedal sensor", then should I just change the ap sensor? and if that doesn't work, do I have to replace the entire throttle body? if so, how much will that run me? and is there a DIY for it?

cdavis1

I must share this with you guys. For the last 13 months, I've been experiencing issues with RPM fluctuations, hesitation, and surging. I live in Arkansas and the problems/issues seemed to present themselves more when it was warmer. While the issues were still slightly present in the winter, the spring and summer was awful. I have spent the last 13 months going back and forth with the dealer trying to figure out what the issue was. The dealership did a lot of work, including replacing my entire fuel system, but could never really isolate the issue. I read several threads on Acurazine and the issues described by others were exactly what I've been experiencing. I knew it wasn't a tranny issue. I ordered the part this past Sunday and it arrived yesterday. I must say that I am NOT mechanically inclined, but after pulling the instructions provided, it took me 27 minutes to change this part out. I drove it last night and this morning...the problems are 100% gone. If you could only imagine the frustration of 13 months...only to find out it was a simple $200 part that took less than 30 minutes to fix. Thank you...I LOVE Acurazine.

rmartin

So you replaced the App sensor 36531-RCA-A02 and you problems are gone? update back in a few days ...

BukvaMan

what exactly did you replace ? the app sensor or the throttle body assambly...?

cdavis1

I replaced the APP sensor for the 05 TL, aftermarket product BWD #PPS1046. My son and I just got back from the Acurazine National Meet in KC. The trip, including cruising, was right at 800 miles. I will report that the issues are 100% gone. No hesitations, no RPM fluctuations...nothing. For $235 and a 27 minute repair job, I'm quite pleased.

cdavis1

APP sensor, BWD #PPS1046 for 05 TL.

rmartin

Any reason why you went aftermarket on this part?

cdavis1

A few reasons: 1) the part was cheaper than what Acura quoted me (I didn't feel the need to go OEM on this particular part). 2) I was putting the part on myself and didn't want to drive 2 hrs roundtrip to the dealer to pick it up. 3) I was crunched for time to get the part before driving to KC for the AZine meet (I didn't want to deal with the frustrations of the part for that long of a drive) so I ordered it locally and they had it overnight.

zookie

It looks correct but I just want to verify that this is the part for a 2004 6MT

36531-RCA-A02 SENSOR, LAF 04 - 08 TL

Is this the APP sensor?

cdavis1

I don't want to give you a bad answer. With that said, I pasted this part in Google and it reflects a "Honda Oxygen Sensor." In looking at the photo of the part, it doesn't look correct (oxygen and APP are different). I think the part number will differ, depending on whether you buy OEM or aftermarket. I bought aftermarket. Here is the hyperlink and the picture of the actual part.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2183&ppt=C0033

Even if you go with a different vendor (OEM, etc.), the part will look identical...so at least you can print it off and have it for reference. 'Just trying to help.