sockr1

iTrader: (5)

i just replaced mine proactively. not that much money and like you said i'd rather not be stranded. after 9 years i figured why not, let's reset the clock on that item

ds03

Mine gradually went bad, so gradually that I didn't know it was going bad until I got the Christmas lights one day and needed to replace it. It had a slowness, an ever so slight hesitation that I could sometimes get to go away with an ECU reset. Only after I had a chance to drive it with the new sensor did I see how the car SHOULD have been responding the past year or so before.

mayjarjar

Hey guys, I know this is an old thread but I've been unable to get a good answer for my question and I'm thinking this may fix my problem... Hopefully.. lol. Anyways, I have an 08 base auto and the car runs great and shifts smoothly but when the car is in 5th gear it will not rev past 2000 rpms no matter how hard I press the accelerator. It accelerates normally until 2000 rpms and it just stops accelerating. So would anyone happen to know if replacing the app sensor might fix my issue??

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

^^^^

Mine just failed. It's also an 08. I never had that issue. Mine would accelerate past 2000 rpms if I had constant pressure. It would down shift if I punched it.

I felt that around 70 to 80 mph my car was accelerating or slowing without me changing the pressure on the pedal. That went on for about a year. One day I broke really hard and skidded to a stop and my dash lighted up like a Christmas Tree. Lights all went away but I had the sensor changed after that. It's been running great ever since. That was a couple weeks ago.

iTzVlad

So this problem just popped up for me. 06 TL base, 114k miles. Scanned it, the code is P2138.

Last week I noticed some moderately loud rattling on acceleration on the highway coming from the engine bay. It went away. Didn't think anything of it. This morning when I pulled out onto the highway and gave it some power, dash lit up like a xmas tree. VSA + ! lights + CEL (mine was already lit up from the recycle gas bypass) and car immediately went into limp mode. 20-30mph and sub 3k rpm. Immediately got off the highway, turned the car off, turned it back on. Problem went away. Managed to make it into work and back just fine. Someone said don't use the throttle if you can avoid it. Use cruise control instead. That did the trick. Nothing popped up since.

Called a few places - College Park Honda charged $220 for the part and $300 for labor for a total of $520. LOL. It takes 20 minutes to replace for amateurs, why are you charging me 3 hours of professional labor for 3 bolts and a wire? On acuraoemparts it's $160 minus shipping. Chevy Chase Acura quoted me $320 for just the part, I didn't want to know how much labor was. I'm guessing total $500-600 from Acura. When I told the guy it was $160 on the website, he brought it down to $230 which is fair. I'm not cheap but I won't be taken for a fool either. I'm currently traveling for work so I don't have any tools with me but a friend is gonna drop by with his tools and help me replace it. If that doesn't work, I'll just call a mobile mechanic and pay him $50-100. I think that's fair.

It's one of the easiest parts to replace in the engine bay. I guess Honda/Acura charges so damn much because they know nobody will want to deal with limp mode and pay top dollar no questions asked. It's an incredible con/scam that just blows my mind. That's why we call it the stealership.

redbeard1

Thanks for great thread. After enduring three years of fluctuating revs around 47 mph in 5th gear, I finally changed the APP sensor. Problem solved.

Tip for removing the unit. Disconnect the cable where it is supported (support is located about 2 feet toward the driver's side). With the cable unsupported, it was very easy to remove the part and do the disassembly on top of the engine.

I did the 3x3 ATF about a year ago. That helped the fluctuating rev problem a little. Swapping the part got rid of the problem for me.

2005 TL 85,000 miles.

NE14RoxCJ

For a long term update, I had to replace the replacement in July, 2016. So it looks like I got about 5 years out of the original sensor and about 8 years out of the replacement (OEM Part.) As far as mileage, I would guess around 110,000 miles out of each one. This time, I bought a Standard Motor Products (aftermarket) from Amazon for $125. If I have to replace it again, I'll let you all know. I've got 235k miles on it, now...

cbptltypes

Does the CEL turn off right after you changed the APP sensor?
Mine is still on after changing it.

ds03

Give it a few cycles. If it doesn't go away there must be other codes that are being thrown. It's been a while since I replaced mine, but I don't recall it staying on too long afterward.

4DGSR

cbptltypes

After getting gas this morning, the CEL turned off. I got the APP from amazon.

nhawks16

This thread is awesome! I just replaced my APP sensor as it had all the side effects listed above. I purchased off amazon for 128$. Will provide link below as well as a helpful link I used to changed out the sensor.





After reading I also learned I should also adjust the throttle bottle cable. This little adjustment made my run like the day I bought it. I cannot believe how massive the effect was. I think every car on this thread should adjust or check this cable yearly. All this time, the hesitation my car made at low RPM's I thought was due to low compression (considering my car has 160K miles) but in realty the throttle bottle cable simple needed some love. I went from wanting to drive my car off a cliff to loving my TL again.

To clear your check engine light, pop your negative battery terminal off for 60 second and re fasten. ECU should have cleared.

Scottwax

For lack of a better term, it feels like the engine is surging at steady speeds but when you turn on cruise control, it doesn't surge anymore.

MyGuti

does anyone have a link for adjusting the throttle cable....thinking of trying this out

vpasla1

I know there's one out there on the forum with picturses but I'm on mobile right now. It's pretty simple though, you take the cover off the app sensor, I believe it's two screws, then you'll see a nut attached to the app sensor wire, you'll turn it one way to tighten, the other to loosen.

You don't want to go too tight, but you'll notice if you did fairly quickly.

Scottwax

Just reduce the play, the cable should be tight but still have some play when you push down on the cable.

wpalme00

Not being handy, I broke the bolt holding the plate that attaches to the car, by the wheel well. I tried drilling it out and now i have a funny-shaped hole with no threads. Any thoughts on how to escape this disaster?

vpasla1

a regular bolt with a washer (if necessary) on the one end, a nut on the other end to hold it in place.

ds03

Yeah, that's what I would suggest as well assuming you have access behind the bracket (been a while since I worked on this part of the car).

wpalme00

Thanks for making your suggestion conditional on access. I don't have access unless I want to start taking apart the wheel well. But I did get a new bolt with a plastic housing to ram in there and this should work. I have a 2006 TL with 186,000 miles on it, and this is my first fail on the APP sensor, so I figure I'm still ahead of the game even though I'm having a lot of trouble.

ds03

If it comes loose, I would suggest an anchor that can expand if there's free space behind the hole. This way it will stay tight.

wpalme00

I have a piece of plastic housing that a metal screw is supposed to fit into. But I have doubts that this housing is going to hold. I like your idea but have no idea where to find such a thing. I also have a problem with the adjustment of the cable. My cable has [from left to right] 4 or so threads, then a smooth space of maybe a quarter inch, and then the rest of the threads. It would seem reasonable that the smooth area is where the thing sits in the main piece [mechanical stop?] but: a) there wouldn't be much room to adjust before the smaller [left side] nut ran off the threads; and b) the smaller nut is sitting in the smooth space now and won't thread back to the left, if that's where it ever was. It will go right, but then why its this piece configured like this? Finally, I appreciate the help. I am 62 and not handy but have worked on cars on home fix-its for a long time. I now have probably 6 hours in this project including trying to adjust the cable first a couple of times and then test-driving. So where everyone says it's a 20 minute job, well, it's a long nightmare for me. I'm waiting for the part because we live in the boondocks and Amazon needs 3 days to fulfill. Maybe tomorrow. Anyone wanna buy a 2006 TL with 186000 miles, and well-maintained until we moved north outta Chicago and my mechanic dies 2 years ago.

ds03

Any hardware store will have anchors, just ask and explain how you're going to use it. Used for hanging heavy objects on drywall, just make sure the collapsible part is small enough to fit through your hole. I can't help with your other question as my cable was a simple adjustment. Just disconnected from the old and reconnected to the new with only a slight adjustment to the cable... just enough to take in any slack.

wpalme00

Well, I got the part - aftermarket Standard Motor Prods - and there is zero change. Setting the cable was fairly clear because the engine raced if the left nut was too far left. It seems to idle warm at 750 rpm now. The problem is that it surges to high rpm once it's heated up, going down the highway, with no corresponding power and then loss of power. Pulling over and restarting allows it to work again for a minute or two. I did put a half tank of 87 octane in there recently, mixing with the 91 that is the max we get up north. I'm considering having it siphoned out. I'm also overdue for an oil change - 30% on the dash. So I've tempted fate. I had a LOT of stuff done a couple of months ago culminating in a valve adjust which finally got the CEL off. Everything has gone to Hades since I stopped having access to 93 octane pure gas starting a year ago. I think i have to take this to a local garage that has the expensive machine to test codes.

ds03

You don't need 93, 91 is fine and actually the 87 in there now won't hurt anything until you use it up so don't worry about siphoning it out. The computer will compensate for the difference when that happens (to prevent knocking). Not sure about your surging problem though. The ECU may reset after you drive it a bit with the new throttle sensor so perhaps it will settle on its own.

ds03

Just reread your post about the surging. Definitely not related to the gas but I'd have a shop check it out, especially if other work was done recently that may have a hand in the problem. Hopefully you get it figured out.

wpalme00

The problem before was solved by the dealer 300 miles away. But maybe this shop will work - shoulda gone there in April. There's no way a "knock sensor" could be bad/involved? It doesn't want to go into first gear sometimes even when cold - just doesn't want to engage. And the automatic/manual transmission shows it to be in 4th when it's revving and won't shift. Finally, I had one of the rear brakes lock up in a damp garage a month ago. Could this be it? A lot of weird causes on these Acuras and, as I said, I've been really fortunate until this year with mine. Reading these pages, anything goes it seems with all the gizmos etc.

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

Could the transmission be on the way out? When was the last time the trans fluid/filter was changed?

wpalme00

65000/ 4 years ago whoops have it in to the guy acts like trans, but CEL light on now constantly too won't stay in gear hot

TLSCincinnati

My car recently started hesitating while driving at a constant speed. Eventually I had my first "Limp Mode" experience and it has happened several times since. I have done some research and have learned that there can be a couple things that cause this problem. 1.) TPS 2.)APP Sensor. Is there a way to determine which is causing the problem? I don't have the proper tools to check volts, etc., so i am hoping that there is a way to determine which sensor is creating the problem. Also, if it is the TPS I have read that i should just consider replacing the whole throttle body. Is this true? Seems to be a common problem so i am hoping someone can help....... Also, how difficult is it to replace. Thanks In Advance!!

redbeard1

At what speed and rpm? Or does does it hesitate at random constant speeds?

tomlinsonj

iTrader: (2)

I just replaced the APP this past weekend. The surging can be felt most prominently at 35-50 mph (at least that was my experience) and if you are in 4th or 5th gear. The problems go away if you put it on cruise at the same speed because the computer takes control of the throttle. If the APP symptoms get bad enough, the TL will go into protective mode with the CEL, VSA and (!) indicators lit up, and you will limp along until the car is turned off and restarted.

For replacing the sensor, there are good tips in this thread, along with some photos. Read the entire post. I had success with removing and replacing the APP by taking off the cover, removing the mounting bolts on the strut tower and bar, and then turning the assembly over to access the other bolts. Then you can angle the APP out and remove the cable from the spool. I reinstalled the APP in place and then reinstalled the cable into the spool by holding the app at the wide open throttle position and then inserting the metal tab at the end of the cable into the spool. No more surge issues so far.

wpalme00

It looks like it was the trans. I found a good local shop who got a 2006 Accord trans. and he says it works. May never know if the APP sensor was actually bad - replacing it maxxed me out that's for sure.

jeeva86

Hey all, I’m hitting limp mode. Replaced my app sensor about 100k km ago, but I’m curious how long can one drive in the current state. It’ll take 2w for the part to come in but I need to drive about 1k km before that. I can easily pull over and restart but is it possible to be stuck in limp mode?

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

You could do that but it would be a safety issue. You wouldn't want to have to floor it to get out of a dangerous situation and the car goes in limp mode. I would get it replaced asap!

jeeva86

Hey all, rock auto shows related part numbers as:

DORMAN 699114 {#37971RBB003, 37971RCAA01, 37971RDJA01}

the first one is acura, the others are for accords and crvs etc. Is it safe to assume that I can get either of those from the dealer and it would work? Those are cheaper than the Acura “version”. I need the part by today!

Majofo

I would only trust an non-OE part for the interim until the OE part gets in.
Even though the OE APP sensor is known to go out after a while.. you don't want to take chances with a critical part like this.
Trust what's known, in this regard.

Why doesn't your local Honda or Acura dealer have it?
Definitely don't wait, but if you have to pay a little mark up for it, do that rather than risk you or someone else's life.
Also, at a certain point, stopping and restarting won't work.

jeeva86

I'd rather skip the OEM version for this since it also craps out, so why pay double for crap quality. I used an aftermarket before it was fine. I went to the junk yard and picked out an app sensor from a 2006 MDX, gonna give that a try and see how it goes.

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

I wonder what the life span of non OEM is. Can anyone answer that from experience?

Majofo

You know how the OEM version will behave..
What you don't know is if the aftermarket will do the opposite and open your throttle wide open instead.