CEL P2628- Rear Upsteam A/F Sensor Help

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 30, 2011 | 03:44 PM
  #1  
ollie526's Avatar
Thread Starter
Advanced
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 89
Likes: 1
From: Providence, RI
CEL P2628- Rear Upsteam A/F Sensor Help

I pulled P2628 and I need some help. The first shop I called told me the sensor was $203. Then I called autozone and they told me the Bosch version was $90 (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=491525_0_0_). Do they do they same thing?


Secondly, I need to make sure I have the right location for this. Looking at the service manual it isn't very clear what size of the engine the diagram is showing.

Name:  425963735_photobucket_35392_.jpg
Views: 7278
Size:  64.1 KB

Is this the one right in the very front? I know it's called Rear Upstream but I don't see any others around. Considering my plug goes off to the right, I think I'm out of luck. If it's literally in the back of the engine, I have no idea how I'll get back there to get at it.

425963735_photobucket_35393_.jpg?t=1296423727

Last edited by ollie526; Jan 30, 2011 at 03:45 PM. Reason: Typo
Reply
Old Jan 30, 2011 | 04:09 PM
  #2  
nfnsquared's Avatar
Race Director
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 1,824
From: MAGA country
Originally Posted by ollie526
Is this the one right in the very front? I know it's called Rear Upstream but I don't see any others around. Considering my plug goes off to the right, I think I'm out of luck. If it's literally in the back of the engine, I have no idea how I'll get back there to get at it.
No, bank 1 refers to whatever is attached to cylinder 1 which is the rear passenger side cylinder:

firewall
123
456
radiator

It's the top, rear sensor, part #36531-RCA-A02, $118 for OEM. You can reach it. Removing the tower strut bar will make it much easier.

part #9 in the diagram:

http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/P...gPicture=False

The Bosch wide band o2 sensor should work as well.

Last edited by nfnsquared; Jan 30, 2011 at 04:12 PM.
Reply
Old Jan 30, 2011 | 05:05 PM
  #3  
ollie526's Avatar
Thread Starter
Advanced
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 89
Likes: 1
From: Providence, RI
Talking

Perfect answer. Thanks. Hopefully removing that bar wont be too hard. Ill take a look tomorrow. Im hoping this swap will also help my mpg a bit. Its been worse than usual lately.
Reply
Old Jan 30, 2011 | 05:17 PM
  #4  
nfnsquared's Avatar
Race Director
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 1,824
From: MAGA country
Originally Posted by ollie526
Perfect answer. Thanks. Hopefully removing that bar wont be too hard. Ill take a look tomorrow. Im hoping this swap will also help my mpg a bit. Its been worse than usual lately.
The bar is easy: 3 nuts on each end, 2 small bolts on the driver's side, 1 small bolt on the passenger side. Retorque the nuts to 21 ft/lbs.
Reply
Old Feb 5, 2011 | 05:05 PM
  #5  
ollie526's Avatar
Thread Starter
Advanced
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 89
Likes: 1
From: Providence, RI
Well this seemed easy until I started doing it. 2 of the bar bolts came off easy but the other four stripped almost instantly since they are soft brass. I decided I could get at it without removing the bar.

First I need to figure out how to get the existing pigtail clip off. There seems to be a tab i can press down, but even doing so the pigtail doesn't move. What's the trick?

425963735_photobucket_36566_.jpg?t=1296947000

Then once I can get that I just got to hope that the sensor isn't stuck on as hard as past sensors. I'm going on three hours now so any help would be appreciated.
Reply
Old Feb 5, 2011 | 05:18 PM
  #6  
nfnsquared's Avatar
Race Director
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 1,824
From: MAGA country
Originally Posted by ollie526
Well this seemed easy until I started doing it. 2 of the bar bolts came off easy but the other four stripped almost instantly since they are soft brass. I decided I could get at it without removing the bar.

First I need to figure out how to get the existing pigtail clip off. There seems to be a tab i can press down, but even doing so the pigtail doesn't move. What's the trick?

Then once I can get that I just got to hope that the sensor isn't stuck on as hard as past sensors. I'm going on three hours now so any help would be appreciated.
Wow, someone way over torqued those nuts!!

For the connector, press on the end of the tab (indicated by arrow) and pull. Sometime you have to really the end hard while pressing the tab and pulling.


Last edited by nfnsquared; Feb 5, 2011 at 05:22 PM.
Reply
Old Mar 17, 2011 | 12:05 AM
  #7  
pw123's Avatar
2nd Gear
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Palo alto,CA
Question regarding P2628 error code

Hi,

I have P2628 for a while, it has been on and off for half a year. Other than the check engine light is on, I haven't noticed any different feel of the driving.

What's the problem ? It's the faulty sensor I need to replace or it really reports something I need to take care of?

I searched the forum and found the thread and I wonder what's the result after replacement of the sensor?

Thanks a lot and looking forward to hearing from you guys!

Pw123
Reply
Old Mar 17, 2011 | 09:21 AM
  #8  
nfnsquared's Avatar
Race Director
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 1,824
From: MAGA country
Originally Posted by pw123
Hi,

I have P2628 for a while, it has been on and off for half a year. Other than the check engine light is on, I haven't noticed any different feel of the driving.

What's the problem ? It's the faulty sensor I need to replace or it really reports something I need to take care of?

I searched the forum and found the thread and I wonder what's the result after replacement of the sensor?

Thanks a lot and looking forward to hearing from you guys!

Pw123
I replied to your PM, but it says your quota has been exceeded...

P2628-Rear A/F Sensor (Bank1, Sensor1) LABEL Circuit High Voltage.

It's most likely a bad sensor, but could also be a bad connection.

You really should get it fixed. You don't want your engine running with a bad sensor sending erroneous information to the ECU. You could wind up with poor gas mileage, fouled plugs, burned valves, etc.

Here is a DIY thread on how to replace the sensor:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/e-130-diy-oxygen-o2-sensor-installation-rear-upstream-f-aka-p2251-811823/

Last edited by nfnsquared; Mar 17, 2011 at 09:28 AM.
Reply
Old Mar 17, 2011 | 12:02 PM
  #9  
pw123's Avatar
2nd Gear
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Palo alto,CA
Thanks!

Hi,

Thanks for the quick reply. I will try to fix it soon, hopefully by following DIY instructions you pointed. It seems to me a doable job for me.


Pw123




Originally Posted by nfnsquared
I replied to your PM, but it says your quota has been exceeded...

P2628-Rear A/F Sensor (Bank1, Sensor1) LABEL Circuit High Voltage.

It's most likely a bad sensor, but could also be a bad connection.

You really should get it fixed. You don't want your engine running with a bad sensor sending erroneous information to the ECU. You could wind up with poor gas mileage, fouled plugs, burned valves, etc.

Here is a DIY thread on how to replace the sensor:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=811823
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mada51589
3G TL Problems & Fixes
80
Jan 9, 2025 04:40 PM
Yumcha
Automotive News
9
Feb 25, 2020 09:57 AM
ibGTV
1G CL (1997-1999)
14
Sep 28, 2015 03:40 AM
Billu99tl
3G TL Problems & Fixes
1
Sep 13, 2015 11:30 AM
DS2000TL
2G TL (1999-2003)
1
Sep 9, 2015 09:26 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:37 AM.