So today while checking for the whining noise (seems to be coming from the belt), at idle while looking at my crank pulley I noticed a slight wobble. Like it doesn't spin perfectly smooth, it has this slight back and forth wobble, like an out of balance tire. Should I replace the pulley? And is it bad to drive the car like this until I get the new pulley in?

 

Although the pulley hub is a tight fit on the crank, check to be certain the bolt is tight, which it probably is, then replace the pulley.
Many used parts available as the following are the same, plus, depending on year, Accord, Ridgeline, Odyssey, Pilot balancer:


'03-'04 MDX
'04 TL


'05-'09 MDX
'05-'08 RL
'05-'08 TL

Many available at Acura-Honda Dismantling in Rancho-Cordova @ $50
New $193/$145

 

The elastomer may be falling apart so it may need to be replaced. If you want to upgrade check out our lightweight crank pulleys.

http://store.excelerateperformance.c...s/g-60473.aspx

 

Thanks for the reply guys. I would get a used one, but how long before that one goes bad too? So for peace of mind I'll just get a new one. Found a new oem one on ebay for 132 shipped. Not too bad compared to my local dealer who wanted 182 plus tax (lol).

 

The crank pulley has a rubber/elastomer bushing like XLR8 said. From my experience as a mechanic, I've found the rubber dries out and reaks loose from the inner/outer portions of metal, spins, and creates a wobble. This can cause belts to squeak like crazy and is the most common way they are found. Id replace it because its a vital part of your engine. You can drive on it a little but you'll need to replace it. You will need a honda crank pulley holder to be able to loosen the nut. Get a lightweight pulley!

 

I would say that normally one never needs to be replaced, but I've seen some use the incorrect puller that attaches to the outer part of the balancer and when being pulled off the crank, the insulator is damaged, but normally the TL balancer isn't on that tight where a puller is needed.

 

Go lightweight! One piece design leave virtually zero room for failure. My aluminum pulley has been a pleasure of a mod. With no ill effects

 

If it were me I'd definitely replace it. Whether OEM or the one from XLR8 is your choice (but there is debate over one-peice vs. traditional "harmonic balancers" so do your research) . $132 for the OE is the easy part....getting the crank pulley off, well, that's not always that easy for home mechs.

Is it "bad" to drive? Probably not for a short time but when it goes then it's likely that ll the accessories stop spinning as the center part spins with the crank and the outer part stays still. Then you are likely stuck dead on the road if you are not really close to home.

 

When it goes?... If ur main pulley on the crank fails at even 1500 rpm it was destroy all sorts of shit. As it spins off and mangles everything in its path.

I have ran a cheap ass pulley on my car for 4 years now no issues whatsoever.

So I will say buy the one piece from excelerate, your will fix a problem, gain reliability, safety and Power...

 

I have seen this slight wobble on my car and was concerned so while working at the Acura dealer i checked a couple other TLs and they had the same wobble and they had lower mileage than mine so i figured it was normal. I showed the head tech there and he never notice it or has had anybody bring in a TL with a crank pulley issue. I did see a 2g RL have the crank pulley seperate from itself. I hope i dont need to worry about this.

 

I've been reading and some say OE is better because of the weight, some say it has balancing properties while others don't think so. Too much confusion, easiest for me was to stay with OE. Just bought the Honda pulley holder tool, and my Ingersoll Rand 1100 ft/lb impact should bust that sucker right off

 

Yea oem is better if u like less power

 

I havent used an impact yet that will bust that damn crank bolt loose. lol I always jam the crank holder in the control arm and use my 1/2" 24" long extention and a breaker bar with a jack handle on it. Work every time, be cautious that you dont scratch the fender or door tho, it can be close.

 

Pretty sure he has the IR W7150. It will pop it off no problem Just ordered one for myself today

 

Yup that's the one. You're going to love it. I have not come across a bolt/nut that it couldn't take care of.

 

When my crank pulley gets here I'm thinking of replacing the drive belt tensioner too since I see it wobble a bit and I hear a slight noise which seems like its coming from the wobbling tensioner pulley. However the guy at the dealership was trying to sell me the whole assembly (the one with the idler as well) for 200 bucks, saying just replacing the tensioner pulley by itself would not fix the issue. What do you guys think? The tensioner itself is only 18 bucks and I would rather not spend 200 if I don't need to.