Car cranks and shuts off right after it turns on, Help!

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Old Sep 6, 2015 | 07:38 PM
  #1  
Soul_Deamon's Avatar
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Car cranks and shuts off right after it turns on, Help!

I have a 2011 Acura TL base, today I was putting in a back up camera. When I had the car ON and in reverse, I took a volt meter and connected one lead to ground and the other to reverse light to check which wire had power the car shut off when I put the positive lead of the voltmeter on the reverse light wire. Now when I put the key in II position no lights come on the dash display and when I try to start it, it cranks 4 - 5 times turns on for 1-2 sec and shuts right off? What could be the problem? Ignition switch? I had the voltmeter in Amp setting rather than Volt setting.
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Old Sep 6, 2015 | 08:03 PM
  #2  
ulrblitzer's Avatar
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From: MN - Twin Cities
<p>Could be the immobilizer/ignition. I removed a remote starter off a car and clipped the ignition wire without knowing it. I would get the same thing, it'd crank, turn over, then shut right off.</p><p>Unhook the leads you wired in for the camera, reconnect it the wires the way it should be OEM and see if that'll reverse/fix your problem.</p>
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Old Sep 6, 2015 | 08:10 PM
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I have unhooked the leads which were wired for the camera and reconnected all the OEM wires but the problem persists. No dash lights turn on when key is in II or III setting, I hear a chime when the key is in II setting, now cranks but no start.?
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Old Sep 6, 2015 | 08:29 PM
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Reorge's Avatar
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From: New Orleans, LA
Did you check all the fuses in the engine compartment fuse box?
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Old Sep 6, 2015 | 08:30 PM
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Yes, fuses were ok.
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Old Sep 6, 2015 | 10:42 PM
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But i couldn't find the ignition fuse...?
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Old Sep 10, 2015 | 08:53 PM
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ray01's Avatar
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From: Toronto, Ontairo


your ignition fuse is most likely the fuse block in the under hood fuse box. look at #13,14 and 15 in the pic
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Old Oct 10, 2015 | 01:38 AM
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Leo K's Avatar
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Have you figured it out yet? My theory - the meter being on amps, rather than volts, let you short the power to ground. That surge likely backfed into the PCM/BCM (the module that controls most of your car, including all the ignition stuff). It was enough amperage (module wires aren't usually fused) to melt a connector in the module, which shorted something. That something is probably the control wire of the fuel pump relay or some section of the security system which cuts fuel. That would let you start the car using the existing fuel pressure, but it would keep it from running. I can print out a wiring diagram when I'm back in the shop Tuesday if it hasn't been fixed yet, and we can go from there. Let me know.
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 04:32 PM
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From: Chgo burbs
I had a similar issue when trying to install LED back up light bulb. Towed it to dealer who simply replaced 7.5A fuse #12.
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