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i have a bent subframe and was thinking of swapping my good parts into another 3g TL with no trans an motor. I have the tools and time. Replacing a subframe seems slightly impossible without a lift. What should I do? Find a 07-08 shell? Get a subframe and change it myself? Part the car out? Other suggestions? Thanks guys! Glad to be here!
Get an engine and tranny combo... A 2007-08 tranny will likely hold up better even though the 2006 MY wasn't afully bad with failures, the 07-08 MYs are much better from what I hear... Might as well just do it all...
Get an engine and tranny combo... A 2007-08 tranny will likely hold up better even though the 2006 MY wasn't afully bad with failures, the 07-08 MYs are much better from what I hear... Might as well just do it all...
I don't believe that will work either due to differences in how the cars are wired.
Hello all!
new guy here, I’ve veen trying in vain to get this axle nut off to replace my front right cv. I cannot for the life of me crack it loose and I can’t get to a shop as the car is on stands (doing a subframe transplant too). Anyone have any ideas? Heat? Special fluids? I’ve tried elbow grease, foot power, mallets, pipes, and nothing seems to be cracking it loose. Anyone else run into a problem axle nut?
I’m currently replacing the subframe, sourced one locally for $173 delivered.
have a thread about a trouble axle nut I can’t get loose, so the repairs are well under way. Might be posting some pictures soon on another thread. Keep me posted with any advice ya got, this is my first project of such magnitude.
Hey everyone,
i bent the subframe on my 08 TL and decided why not, let’s fix it. I sourced a new subframe off an 07 type s which should fit nicely and am under way. As with all repairs I’ve run into a few problems. Maybe someone has some advice?
1). I cannot figure out where to hook on to the motor with the cherry picker chains to support it before I drop the old subframe. Could someone help me with a diagram and point out where/how to mount the chains just to hold the motor in place?
2) an axle nut is giving me major problems. I can’t get to a shop to do it and have only hand tools. Any advice? I don’t want to cut the nut off either.
3) would it be easier to remove the whole spindle assembly to press out a broken lower ball joint and replace it with a new one? Or is it possible to replace the lower ball joint when it’s still on the car?
thanks guys, I’ll post up pics as I go from here, it should be a week of fun coming up. I’ll be doing some hubs, rotors, and brakes too. Got tein suspension, but one project at a time, I can’t wait til she’s fully adjustable though!
Usually the axle nuts are staked to prevent them from vibrating out. Also if it's pretty rusty, it'll give you hell. With only hand tools, you're in for a hurtin'. My $70 HF Earthquake air impact hasn't been defeated by anything yet (on top of having the cheapest and most powerful gun in the shop)
Unless you have a powerful enough impact, axle nuts are easiest to remove with vehicle weight on the tire while using a breaker bar with several feet of extension for leverage(like a pipe).
Harbor freight has 3/4" breaker bars that work great in cases like these.
1)Here's a diagram of the engine/trans lift points:
2)I've always just removed the knuckle to replace lower ball joints since it is fairly easy to get at. If you have the proper ball joint removal set and impact gun it "can" be done with the knuckle installed but is a PIA unless the vehicle is on a mid/high rise lift and you can work on it with lots of room below
1)Here's a diagram of the engine/trans lift points:
2)I've always just removed the knuckle to replace lower ball joints since it is fairly easy to get at. If you have the proper ball joint removal set and impact gun it "can" be done with the knuckle installed but is a PIA unless the vehicle is on a mid/high rise lift and you can work on it with lots of room below
3) Answered on the other thread
Thanks for the crane mounting info help!
i’m going to crack that axle nut off today, got a few ideas. I think I’m going to finish off the subframe then drive it over to my friends place where there’s access to impact guns. Hopefully the trashed ball joint holds up for ten miles :P
Anyone ever strip the two Phillips head brake rotor screws? I did! Doh....
I’m renting a breaker bar right now, sitting in the shops parking lot waiting for them to open... haha hopefully this thing will be nicer soaking in penetrating oil all night.
Yeah, I swear those screws are made of zinc or some other soft crappy metal.
I've found if you clamp some vice grips on a screwdriver, then push as hard as you can on the butt of the screwdriver while turning the vice grip, you can remove the screw maybe 80% of the time without stripping it.
OP, why can't your buddy come to you (does he only have pneumatic guns)? That would be the safest move. If that ball joint goes while driving, you've got serious issues....
No need to open multiple threads for each problem.. I've merged all your threads, keep it all in one place and if you need me to change the title, feel free to ask.
As I said, just me. Most wouldn't bother, but I don't like rotors flopping around when doing brake work. One can always put a lug nut back on to hold it in place, but as the rotor screws are factory, that's what I go with and have done on every car I've owned or even worked on.
On our '11 Turbo Optima, did the front brakes and couldn't get the screws out so drilled them, put everything back together and the next day picked some up at the local parts store then did the install. I know useless, but pretty particular when it comes to cars.
Last edited by Turbonut; Jan 26, 2019 at 07:36 AM.
Got the axle out, took a pickle fork and two hours of prying and turning and prying and turning. Also managed to rip a nice hole in my palm from the friction. I found the retaining tab thing was snapped on the part where the axle meets the drive shaft, it was being held on tight. I decided since I’m in here I’m going to do hubs and lower ball joints in the front as well as putting my street advance z coil overs on, finally. This project is ridiculous but I’m sure it will be worth it.
new problem! I have a bolt on the exhaust pipe up front coming from the header that is blocked by the subframe. I only need to remove this bolt to drop the frame and not damage the exhaust pipes. I can’t think of any way to get to it, plus it’s a little rounded as well. I’ve used a torch to heat the bolt and try to break it loose but there’s no real estate. I love hitting these walls ^_^ who got the knowledge?
also, I got a strut spring compressor kit from auto zone because the clerk didn’t know if I should use that or a “coil spring compressor”. I’ve never done coils before so I’m learning as I go. Any tips?
No need to open multiple threads for each problem.. I've merged all your threads, keep it all in one place and if you need me to change the title, feel free to ask.
OP, why can't your buddy come to you (does he only have pneumatic guns)? That would be the safest move. If that ball joint goes while driving, you've got serious issues....
long story short, he’s “too busy” aka scared of the project and selfish lol
Got the axle out, took a pickle fork and two hours of prying and turning and prying and turning. Also managed to rip a nice hole in my palm from the friction. I found the retaining tab thing was snapped on the part where the axle meets the drive shaft, it was being held on tight. I decided since I’m in here I’m going to do hubs and lower ball joints in the front as well as putting my street advance z coil overs on, finally. This project is ridiculous but I’m sure it will be worth it.
new problem! I have a bolt on the exhaust pipe up front coming from the header that is blocked by the subframe. I only need to remove this bolt to drop the frame and not damage the exhaust pipes. I can’t think of any way to get to it, plus it’s a little rounded as well. I’ve used a torch to heat the bolt and try to break it loose but there’s no real estate. I love hitting these walls ^_^ who got the knowledge?
also, I got a strut spring compressor kit from auto zone because the clerk didn’t know if I should use that or a “coil spring compressor”. I’ve never done coils before so I’m learning as I go. Any tips?
THANKS GUYS!!
Do those coilovers come with their own top hats/camber plates? If yes, then you don't even need the spring compressor, just pull old ones out, new ones in
If you do need to re-use the top hats then this is the type of spring compressor you need to use; https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...eVehicle=false
Also with those previously mentioned rotor retainer screws; impact screwdrivers are a WONDERFUL tool, mostly to alleviate all your aggression. The harder and more force you hit it with a hammer/sledge into the screw, translates into more torque to loosen the screws. Great stress relieving tool
Got the axle out, took a pickle fork and two hours of prying and turning and prying and turning. Also managed to rip a nice hole in my palm from the friction. I found the retaining tab thing was snapped on the part where the axle meets the drive shaft, it was being held on tight. I decided since I’m in here I’m going to do hubs and lower ball joints in the front as well as putting my street advance z coil overs on, finally. This project is ridiculous but I’m sure it will be worth it.
new problem! I have a bolt on the exhaust pipe up front coming from the header that is blocked by the subframe. I only need to remove this bolt to drop the frame and not damage the exhaust pipes. I can’t think of any way to get to it, plus it’s a little rounded as well. I’ve used a torch to heat the bolt and try to break it loose but there’s no real estate. I love hitting these walls ^_^ who got the knowledge?
also, I got a strut spring compressor kit from auto zone because the clerk didn’t know if I should use that or a “coil spring compressor”. I’ve never done coils before so I’m learning as I go. Any tips?
THANKS GUYS!!
Get a dremel and just cut out the bolt and then replace it.
If the coils come pre-assembled, you shouldn't need to compress them (just need a bit more finangling possibly to get the old ones out.
Front coils in and adjusted HIGH. 2.55” and it’s still scraping a little. Backs will be in this weekend with new hubs and ball joints. Getting an alignment next so my new tires don’t die. Got the front drilled and slotted rotors and new ceramic pads in, they’re super quiet. The injen intake is doing wonders on gas 26 mpg city when I take it easy. Here’s a couple pics New rotors and tires Raised to 2.55” measurement on tein street advance z New wheels and tires
Thanks for the crane mounting info help!
i’m going to crack that axle nut off today, got a few ideas. I think I’m going to finish off the subframe then drive it over to my friends place where there’s access to impact guns. Hopefully the trashed ball joint holds up for ten miles :P
Anyone ever strip the two Phillips head brake rotor screws? I did! Doh....
Next time use an impact screwdriver. You’ll find it helpful with these screws, seatbelt anchor screws, door latch screws, etc. They are well worth the investment. I got one at Harbour Freight years ago for like $10 I believe.
I found the retaining tab thing was snapped on the part where the axle meets the drive shaft, it was being held on tight. I decided since I’m in here I’m going to do hubs and lower ball joints in the front as well as putting my street advance z coil overs on, finally. This project is ridiculous but I’m sure it will be worth it.
