'04 to '08 front lower control arm bushing failure - please read and look
#1001
Dunno. If the Fastline bushings were $100, I wouldn't hesitate to give them a try.
My OEM bushings weren't torn badly and I really can't tell a difference with the new OEM bushings installed.
On the plus side, the Fastline bushings appear to hold up well to harsh winters (see the review by MacKenzie001). And he gives them high marks...
My OEM bushings weren't torn badly and I really can't tell a difference with the new OEM bushings installed.
On the plus side, the Fastline bushings appear to hold up well to harsh winters (see the review by MacKenzie001). And he gives them high marks...
but he won't tell me the price lol.
I was tempted since it's the front AND back LCA bushings in spherical bearing but then realized OEMs are $30..............
am still tempted.
Woudln't hesitate if the front LCA bushing came with some kind of rubber seal
#1002
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Dunno. If the Fastline bushings were $100, I wouldn't hesitate to give them a try.
My OEM bushings weren't torn badly and I really can't tell a difference with the new OEM bushings installed.
On the plus side, the Fastline bushings appear to hold up well to harsh winters (see the review by MacKenzie001). And he gives them high marks...
My OEM bushings weren't torn badly and I really can't tell a difference with the new OEM bushings installed.
On the plus side, the Fastline bushings appear to hold up well to harsh winters (see the review by MacKenzie001). And he gives them high marks...
Chad, i like it stiff
![Pervert](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/pervert.gif)
but i totally agree with you....am thinking the TL will be a track only car in the next year or 2....i will check my bushings and if they seem fine, i will leave them as is and just upgrade to fastline when its time to hit the track
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#1003
Cruiser
well, looks like I may have to go purchase a new 3 ton jack, breaker bar, and sockets to do this myself.......don't feel like paying someone $95\hr to do it...
#1004
Moved to the LOU
iTrader: (6)
Anyone know whe base TL bushing is more expensive than the Type-S. I would assume they are interchangeable.
Base
Base
Product ID: 51394-SEP-A01 = $27.41 each
Type-S Product ID: 51394-SEP-A11 = $21.83 each.
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rockstar143 (07-18-2013)
#1007
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I don't think they do.
I thought they were my reason, but turns out the tires plus by me can't balance a tire on the high speed or road force, to save their lives.
I think under hard turning your car might feel a little "looser" but even then, it's not like play in the steering rack. I changed my bushings and felt nothing different. Just peace of mind.
I thought they were my reason, but turns out the tires plus by me can't balance a tire on the high speed or road force, to save their lives.
I think under hard turning your car might feel a little "looser" but even then, it's not like play in the steering rack. I changed my bushings and felt nothing different. Just peace of mind.
#1008
Anyone know whe base TL bushing is more expensive than the Type-S. I would assume they are interchangeable.
Base
Base
Product ID: 51394-SEP-A01 = $27.41 each
Type-S Product ID: 51394-SEP-A11 = $21.83 each.
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maharajamd (07-19-2013)
#1009
Race Director
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^Eggzachary!
Earlier bushing FTMFW!
They are interchangeable btw.
Earlier bushing FTMFW!
They are interchangeable btw.
#1010
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Interesting....
So I was inspecting my motor mounts and lower control arm bushings yesterday and the mounts seemed a little donut-ed....seems like Innovative changed the design on the mounts....contacted them and they said they will replace the whole set for me and I will have to send my old set in for a full refund....NOT BAD....
the control arm bushings looked fine....I dont think I will mess with it now....Wise words from Jeremy "if it aint broke, dont mess with it"....I shall leave them alone for now....
so its gonna be dropping the subframe and changing out the engine mounts and installing the Type S front sway bar with greaseable energy bushings and moog end links
So I was inspecting my motor mounts and lower control arm bushings yesterday and the mounts seemed a little donut-ed....seems like Innovative changed the design on the mounts....contacted them and they said they will replace the whole set for me and I will have to send my old set in for a full refund....NOT BAD....
the control arm bushings looked fine....I dont think I will mess with it now....Wise words from Jeremy "if it aint broke, dont mess with it"....I shall leave them alone for now....
so its gonna be dropping the subframe and changing out the engine mounts and installing the Type S front sway bar with greaseable energy bushings and moog end links
![Yum](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/yum.gif)
#1011
Race Director
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Don't have to drop the sub-frame to get to the rear motor mount, do you? Or are you dropping it JUST for the type-s fsb?
#1012
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BINGO !!!
for the fsb you have to drop the subframe...so might as well support the engine and drop the subframe with the motor mounts....
now to find something to support the engine LOL....i dont think couple jacks with 2"x4" will cut it LOL
for the fsb you have to drop the subframe...so might as well support the engine and drop the subframe with the motor mounts....
now to find something to support the engine LOL....i dont think couple jacks with 2"x4" will cut it LOL
#1013
Race Director
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It would be much easier with a hoist...
Man I stare at my type-s fsb all the time. No way I'm dropping the sub frame just for that. That's waiting for the clutch to need changed. Lol
The life of a procrastinator...
Man I stare at my type-s fsb all the time. No way I'm dropping the sub frame just for that. That's waiting for the clutch to need changed. Lol
The life of a procrastinator...
#1014
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Well I always like to club things together....I wanted to do the bushings as well but they look fine ![Shrug](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/shrug.gif)
so am guessing its just gonna be fsb and mounts...
![Shrug](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/shrug.gif)
so am guessing its just gonna be fsb and mounts...
#1016
Race Director
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Made her ride nice again, eh?
#1019
That's because your old bushings were actually in really good condition. It's normal to see surface cracking of this kind. They could have gone several more years as they were. Of course the new ones will last even longer proved the person installing them re-assembled your suspension correctly (not fully tightening certain bolts till the car was back on the ground).
#1020
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Yea. Mine were fairly bad. And I felt a difference. Especially at speed.
#1021
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I too felt a huge difference...
my placebo was super stable above around 55mph.
![rofl](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/rofl.gif)
Okay, seriously, I was chasing a poor balanced set of tires for a solid year...this was on the list of things that didn't fix my problem. I'm still glad I changed them though since it got me very intimate with my lower control arm.
my placebo was super stable above around 55mph.
![rofl](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/rofl.gif)
Okay, seriously, I was chasing a poor balanced set of tires for a solid year...this was on the list of things that didn't fix my problem. I'm still glad I changed them though since it got me very intimate with my lower control arm.
#1022
Race Director
no change for me either, but mine weren't torn badly.
#1023
Bobz
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Concord Acura has twice pointed out that my bushings need replaced. The first time was about four years ago. They quoted me a price of $ 550.00 but I am going to go to my Acura mechanic in W.C. and also get a quote from him. I have owned the car since new in April 2004 and it only has 63,000 miles on it. Seems like premature wear to me but it could just be the age factor rather than miles driven. My local mechanic will give me the true skinny on this as he only works on Acura/Hondas and has a reputation for honesty.
#1025
I pulled them myself and had them pressed at a local machine shop for 20$ per bushing I replaced both and I got them on eBay for 30$ so 90$ total every 30/60k miles ain't too bad but if you don't wanna get your fingernails dirty pay some jerk 500$ by all means
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glennjr15 (01-06-2017)
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glennjr15 (01-06-2017)
#1028
I replace those bushings on my 04 tl. You needto remove the whole lower control arm off to replace that bushing. It was alot of hammering to get that bushing out but we got it out and replace them with oem bushings. 40$ each bushing at the dealer
#1030
Race Director
#1031
ok I called a shop to change all the bushing(6 total) they said 180-240 bucks. So i just went to harbor freight and bought the 20ton shop press for 160 bucks which by the way is a great tool to buy.
I too all the bushing out and new ones in in like 30 minutes. everyhting went smooth. the bushing i bought were ebay bushing though. i figure I might as well try a different brand. I might fill them with window weld. btw I used a pipe i had layign around to push them out which was 70mm. the size needed is anything from 70-73mm that will push the bushing out
The only problem i have is the sleeve for the ;lower balljoint came out of the control arm don't know if its suppose to be tightly in the arm or just pressed in slightly.
and my upper ball joints are almost done also. ill need to change them soon
I too all the bushing out and new ones in in like 30 minutes. everyhting went smooth. the bushing i bought were ebay bushing though. i figure I might as well try a different brand. I might fill them with window weld. btw I used a pipe i had layign around to push them out which was 70mm. the size needed is anything from 70-73mm that will push the bushing out
The only problem i have is the sleeve for the ;lower balljoint came out of the control arm don't know if its suppose to be tightly in the arm or just pressed in slightly.
and my upper ball joints are almost done also. ill need to change them soon
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glennjr15 (01-06-2017)
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glennjr15 (01-06-2017)
#1033
Burning Brakes
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Well .. I did the window weld bushings and my window weld popped out of one end of the bushings on both ends.
I ended up going with the fastline performance sphericals and I can definitely say there is a significant difference with them installed.
The LCA moves much much easier, for example when the LCA is unloaded with the shock disconnected and you move it by hand with the stock bushing in its hard to move across its full range due to the compliance bushing, with the fastline it moves across the entire range of the spherical very easily by hand.
Also the road feel is night and day, I can feel a lot more in the road which is sort of a negative and I can tell that my suspension is travelling further down on dips now as well.
My big concern at this point is the aluminum subframe with the fastline bearing. Since it has to take more of the load now due to the travel of the LCA and the spherical bearing I'm worried about it opening up the hole where the spherical bolts to the LCA.
I guess we'll see if that happens, if it does I'll have to have some thick washers welded onto the subframe over the top and bottom of that mounting point to re-enforce it and prevent it from opening up.
I ended up going with the fastline performance sphericals and I can definitely say there is a significant difference with them installed.
The LCA moves much much easier, for example when the LCA is unloaded with the shock disconnected and you move it by hand with the stock bushing in its hard to move across its full range due to the compliance bushing, with the fastline it moves across the entire range of the spherical very easily by hand.
Also the road feel is night and day, I can feel a lot more in the road which is sort of a negative and I can tell that my suspension is travelling further down on dips now as well.
My big concern at this point is the aluminum subframe with the fastline bearing. Since it has to take more of the load now due to the travel of the LCA and the spherical bearing I'm worried about it opening up the hole where the spherical bolts to the LCA.
I guess we'll see if that happens, if it does I'll have to have some thick washers welded onto the subframe over the top and bottom of that mounting point to re-enforce it and prevent it from opening up.
#1034
ill take a picture. and if anything im not about to change the entire arm lol ill just weld the sleeve back in place if i have too
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glennjr15 (01-06-2017)
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glennjr15 (01-06-2017)
#1036
the sleeve is out came out with the arm but when i layed it on the ground it just fell out lol, it was like 30 degrees outside im assuming this had something to do with it. im just going to slap it back in and tighten it down from what i see the sleeve itself is held on tightly by the balljoint and the nut being tightened
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glennjr15 (01-06-2017)
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glennjr15 (01-06-2017)
#1038
they just fall into place i didnt press them in ohh well i already installed them. no problems
only thing im worried about is the ebay lower control arm bushings they slid into place way to easy. might have to buy some oem bushings.
only thing im worried about is the ebay lower control arm bushings they slid into place way to easy. might have to buy some oem bushings.
#1039
Race Director
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![Tomato](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/tomato.gif)
#1040
Race Director
The SM says to replace the control arm if that sleeve comes out. However, others have done exactly what you plan to do with no reported issues. YMMV, dunno. Good luck!
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glennjr15 (01-06-2017)