4drviper

^ i THINK so too,

btw eg, if you'd check out the design of these bushings, these are "shaped" the way your black bushing picture is "worn" ...

sohclubkid @ veesix performance says they're designed to allow the 3 axis movement of compliance bushing,, and to me, it sounds right.

here are the pictures
diagram and stock photo belong to superpro
the two other are from sohclubkid's thread, linked above.





** note this picture below is eccentric to allow caster adjustment **

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

My fiancee's 08 accord lca's looked eerily similar.

94eg!

Lol. Good luck with those. The first thing to split will be those floating outer rings. Then your arm will be knocking around. :S

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

what if we remove the poly and refill with large aggregate concrete?

bigteninch

So are the ARMS themselves the same on years from '04 - '08? Just want to be sure.

I wanted to get an extra set and replace the bushings to have on hand.

supraru

Not sure I even this is even going to go anywhere but does anyone here work with honda/acrua that could answer me this? I'm curious if there is a specific press tool that was ordered to press out the old bushing. Only reason I ask is we have the same kind of issues on subaru bushings and we were able to order up the cup for pressing. Naturally as flat raters we came up with a way to press in and out the bushings on the car without removing the control arm so the job takes us maybe 10 min. and it's a lot easier. Obviously I looked at mine and they are torn. It's not the end of the world but at some point I'd like to at least replace them. I kind of glaced around at our subaru press tools and haven't found anything usable yet. Oh yeah if you can purchase them a part number would be nice. I'd gladly change anyones tl's in the area too for a reasonable price. lol

nfnsquared

Members have used these tools for pressing the bushings with the control arm removed. Don't know if either one will work without removing the control arm. See post #817 and #819.

http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-fro...ers-66829.html

http://www.autotoolworld.com/product...FelDMgodyTsANQ

Keep us updated if you figure out a way to press the bushings "on the car". AFAIK, no one has been able to do this.

nfnsquared

How are they holding up corrosion wise?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

After finding a machine shop that was willing to remove and press in new one for $10 a side, I wouldn't bother going on the mission myself. Removing the Control arm was easy in comparison to trying to use sections of pipe and sockets with a huge vice.

nfnsquared

Edit: There is now a review for the Schley tool where the user removed the bushings "on the car"....YMMV...

Edit2: and another review:

http://www.amazon.com/Schley-SCH6810.../dp/B0079GQLO2

He added a follow-up comment saying that using an impact wrench finally wore out the bolt...The update was done 6 months later. No indication on how many times it was used before it wore out...

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

does everyone change out the other 2 bushings on the control arm too? i did the compliance bushing and the bushing under the suspension, but not the one that goes towards the subframe, but I did notice it was cracked when I had my lca removed

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^The one that the suspension kinda rests on, right?! I thought about that too...never did ended up doing it though.

supraru

Sweet, not sure when I'm going to replace mine. Maybe once spring comes around sing I'm going to put springs on and align the car. Next time I have my car up in the air I'll take a look at the set up. I don't see why I wouldn't be able to do it on the car. I would be using my air gun so Unfortunatly that would cut a bunch of DIYers out of they don't have a strong enough gun or air supply.

Also that's basically how we came up with the on car process. We get 3 hrs for replacing the bushings. We started pulling off the control arms and using the press with the proper tool. We then used some press pieces laying around along with a bolt for our wheel bearing kit and made it work to use it while it was on car to get the job done way faster.

supraru

Not sure what kind of quality kit they use or the bolt used. Our subaru bolts for our on car bearing kit was made pretty nice and had coarse threads. At first only maybe 6 of us out of 13 techs used it as much as possible. The first bolt finally took it's own life I'd say around the year and a half mark. From the impact guns beating on the head of the bolt it just snapped off. Then around that time the hacks of the shop finally got a sniff of what we were selling and how quick and easy it was to do and how much time we got. We went through the next two bolts pretty quickly. Probably two in one year but we're not doing them as often anymore.

94eg!

In theory it should be super cheap to piece a tool like that together for one specific purpose. The problem is knowing what size pieces you need, and where to buy them. If someone DOES build their own tool, it would be great if they provided specs on the parts used and possible sources.

BTW: LoL @ the Schley tool kit. It's twice the price and less than half the parts of the Harbor Freight one. I've personally used the Harbor Freight FWD Bearing kit to press bearings and bushings. It's definitely worth the ~$80 even if the screw strips or breaks.

supraru

Did you do your lca bushing with it on the car with the harbor freight kit though or did you pull off the whole thing to use a press?

The only reason I ask is the one from auto tool world basically looks exactly like the tool we made for our subaru's at work. Given there is room to leave the ball joint attached and pull out the other two bolts to swing down the arm enough to pop in the tool and bang out that bushing. As long as that is possible like I said before it would only take 10-15 min at a shop to do a bushing job.

nfnsquared

Should be easy enough to source a stronger bolt if needed. That other guy was a mechanic and I suspect he got a fair amount of use out of that bolt before it died.

Yes, but have you used it for Acura LCA bushings? Do you know for sure that it has the proper size fittings for the LCA bushings? And do you know for sure that the bolt is long enough for it to work "on car"?

4drviper

I saw pics somewhere, someone did it with the lower ball joint attached,
compliance, rear, shock, and sway bar bolt undone. (duh..)

but he warned that he risked pulling apart the CV axle and it's the DIYer's fault if that happens. it's on this forum. somewhere.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

This is the same reason I don't like the idea of filling the bushing with window-weld. The arm needs to pivot and having a solid bushing there is going to resist than movement and mess with the ability for the arm to cycle.

The Super-pro idea looks like a good compromise, but honestly the Fastline/PCI compliance bearings are really the best, most permanent, no compromise option.

supraru

Sweet, maybe I'll order it up sooner rather then later. If anyone is in the surrounding Philly area and wants it done cheaper then the dealers shoot me a pm.

94eg!

Good point. I have not tried that kit on this specific bushing. I suppose the major factor would be determining if the forcing-screw would even fit through the bolt hole in the bushing. The specialized tool is probably a much safer bet. Though it costs like 5 times as much as having someone press the bushings for you, so it's kind of a difficult sale if you're not a shop.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^that was exactly my point.
If the product had been ready when I did mine, I would have gone with Marcus' product.
That said, my new LCA with the window weld has been holding up really well.

supraru

Maybe I looked at the number wrong but it listed for $129. That isn't 5 times more then the harbor freight kit.

nfnsquared

Anyone know the diameters required to press out the bushings? On a Honda, its 68mm and 65mm. Is it the same for the TL?

And after re-looking at this, I'm not sure that you can press out the bushing with the control arm still on the car. Sure looks like the lip/flange over the end of the control arm that houses the bushing will prevent this:

4drviper

bushing is 74mm

so i guess 74, 76-77?

nfnsquared

So the Harbor Freight kit may work? I'm looking at the 2.90" (73.66mm) bushing and the 2.997" (76.12mm) sleeve. I think the main issue is how deep is the 2.997" sleeve?? In the picture, it looks like the sleeves are deep enough...

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Like Eg mentioned, if you're not a shop, why not just have it pressed in/out for you? I'm a die hard diy'er in the sense that I HATE paying for something I can do myself...after the headaches etc...for $20, I'd rather go that route the next time.

nfnsquared

This isn't necessarily for me. I have access to a lift and press at the base auto hobby shop.

But one could buy the HF kit for $87 shipped (with coupon), use it and then resell it in the BM for $60 -$65 (or just keep it). And it allows all the work to be done at home, saving the time it takes to drive to and from a shop with a press and waiting while they try to figure out how to press the bushings out.

It's a very viable option IMO.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^true, I guess I'd have gone that route too.
Well, I'm FOS because I DID go that route, I just ended up breaking my buddy's vice 1/2 through the install which added to my frustration. So at the end of it, I was like, FK THAT...should have dropped it off to be pressed and then gone to have a beer.

94eg!

It all depends on weather or not the forcing screw is narrow enough to fit through the bolt hole in the center of this bushing. The screw in that kit is pretty damn big.

As for the cups being deep enough, that is not a problem. They are designed to press wheel bearings which are thicker than any bushing I've seen on a Honda. They will have plenty of depth.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

Of course it is holding up! The damn thing is glued together

But that does not mean the suspension is cycling correct. Anyway, if you wanna give the FLP bearings a try let me know.

nfnsquared

Is the HF bolt/screw fatter than 14mm?

94eg!

Sorry I don't know. I no longer have my set.

TeeEll

looks like everyone else is having the same issue as me.

nfnsquared

Anyone know the outside diameter of the rear-most bushing for the LCA?

nfnsquared

FYI, found a universal ball joint separator that works on Hondas (according to multiple reviews). Only $19 shipped. I'll let you know if it works on the TL in about 2 weeks

http://www.sears.com/kd-tools-univer...-00996404000P?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Don't quote me, nfn, but I'm almost positive that one won't work. I tried using a fork style on the first side and although it probably could have worked, I tore the boot and it's a bishhhhh to replace that boot or balljoint.

Anyway, I had one of these 5 piece kits from advance auto, and the one that ended up working flawlessly because it spreads wide enough to grab the top portion of the wide lower control arm (at the point where the balljoint goes through).

nfnsquared

Hmmm, guess I'll have both on hand just in case. The KD tool has some great reviews from Honda users. I'm making somewhat of an assumption that that success will transfer to the TL. We shall see and I'll let everyone know.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Ok. Do.
It's not like the traditional upper balljoint though, you'll see. I'm sure that clip would work awesome on the upper.

supraru

Seems like it's been forever but finally got some bushings that failed inspection today. Took a couple snap shots so you guys can see how the tool is used. It's very easy on subaru's to do it on car but the TL's hopefully should be about the same. At the least the tool is nearly identical just subaru's bushings are smaller.

I mark the control arm which is coincides with the pattern on the inside of the bushing just to make it easy and make sure I install it correctly.



Cup half way though bushing almost out.



Bushing hanging out there and completely out.



New bushing marked at the same spot the old one was marked at on the control arm for correct instal.



Pretty simple. Just hope there is enough swing on the control arm on the TL.