VanyDotK

iTrader: (6)

Just a quick update, I had my bushings and alignment under AcuraCare warranty. They didn't replace the whole arm, just pressed in the new bushings. Regular price would have been around 520 which includes the alignment.

94eg!

I wish I had the indecency to charge someone that much to do something so simple.

Redlantrn

Mine had tears about 1" long. Just had them replaced by a local shop the other day. Was lucky to find an established, local shop that specialized in front end work. Had them replace end links while they were in there. Parts cost me $132 (they alllowed me to supply my own parts), and labor was $220. They threw in a four wheel alignment for $50. Have not been on highway yet, but front end feels tighter. Could be psychological though. I just hate seeing damaged shiot on my car....

professor48

Reading these postings got me interested and worried, so, this afternoon, I jacked up my 08 TL and examined the front bushings. They're perfect! Now that I know there's been a problem with them, I will keep an eye on them and check them at every oil change. Thanks for the info, everyone, and good luck to all who have found they have problem bushings. Hy

94eg!

It would be nice to know of a good rubber conditioner to apply to these bushings. Perhaps every time us meticulous types do our own oil changes, we can also apply a little protectant. I'm thinking about giving 303 a try on bushings. I've applied 303 to CV boots once or twice, but they are nearly new boots I installed on my OEM axles (in my civic). After all that uber messy work, I don't ever want those things to tear again.

So what do we think. Is there a good rubber conditioning grease/paste or something?

Jimbabwe

Hello All,
I have a 2008 TSX with torn front compliance bushings and at first the dealership called my and quoted $520 to repair both of them. I have the extended warranty and called Acura Care and was advised that this was covered. I called my service rep back and he apologized and said he'd have that taken care of at no cost.

2008 TSX
Auto 5sp
58,000 mi

nokkieny

Is this the correct pitman puller? Saw pictures of people with a box set of them, want to make sure i get the correct one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod...:referralID=NA

Slpr04UA6

I was wondering if anyone has the torque specs for all the bolts on the lower control arm? I don't know if maybe I skipped over it through the thread, but apologize in advance if I did. Hope to have these bushings replaced tomorrow! Thanks!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I torqued to hand tightened...you can go as hard as you can tighten on most suspension bolts.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

Well I just made an oem parts order and can't wait to get these bushings replaced. And when considering how big of a pain the rear end links were I went ahead and ordered a new set just in case.

I was going to order the other two bushing sets for the LCAs but after talking with the Acura tech he said don't bother those are always fine and last forever.

I needed a couple other random things too...

pinkertonpunk

Please don't tighten these as much as you can! Use a torque wrench!

Torque specs are:
Shock fork upper pinch bolt: 32lbs/ft
Shock fork lower bolt: 47 lbs/ft
Swaybar endlink: 04-06 Models: 22 lbs/ft 07-08 Models 58 lbs/ft
Lower control arm compliance bushing (the one you are replacing): 75.9 lbs/ft
Lower control arm rear bolt: 47 lbs/ft
Lower ball joint castle nut: 04 Models: 58-65 lbs/ft 05-08 Models 54-61 lbs/ft
For the ones with a range of specs, just tighten to the lowest spec, check to see if the holes line up for the cotter pin, if not tighten just enough to get one through.

One thing to not when torquing down the arm bolts or the lower shock bolt. Torque them when the suspension is in it's normal resting height. This will either require you to torque them on the ground or jack that corner up before you tighten those bolts down.

94eg!

FYI: On the ground is better. Jacking up the suspension doesn't get TRUE ride height. But sometimes it's a necessary evil (like UCAs).

This is also the MOST often overlooked step of lowering a car. Everybody forgets altering your ride height causes all the bushings to become twisted. Your bushings will last a lot longer if you loosen the bolts and re-torque them at the new ride height to reileve the twist. This goes for all the TL bushings except the stupid sideways compliance bushing (the one you are replacing).

pinkertonpunk

Yes, I agree, it's just tough to do it on the ground. You can certainly get it close enough just jacking it up. I usually just do it until it starts to just come off the jack stand.

94eg!

I have a Civic that's lowered almost 3 inches. I can torque every bolt with it on the ground. Every bolt except the UCAs. When I swap out the UCA bushings next month, I plan on measure the wheel position from the center cap to the fender at ride height before I lift the car. This way I can reproduce that same distance with the jack under the LCA to torque the bolts when it's done.

Jacking the suspension with the car on the jack stands is not as accurate because the weight transfer is very different from the jacking points as it is for the wheels. Especially if you don't have all 4 corners of the car on jack stands. Weight is also very different when jacking under the LCA vs having the tire resting on the ground. It compresses the spring less to lift the car from the LCA than it does from the tire. This is called wheel rate.

Either way, it's not a big deal and the way you do it is good. It's definitely light-years better than not resetting your bushings at all. I'm just throwing all this info out there for those that might be interested in subtle differences. Sometimes I have diarrhea of the brain.

pinkertonpunk

Yes, thanks for putting the info out there. I'm well aware of it myself, I was just trying to make it easier for those of us without lift access. My S2000 is quite low but I have all delrin bushings so I don't need to worry about it when I torque them.

94eg!

I just lay on the ground and reach up under the car with a click-type torque wrench.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

My goodie bag came today...

What's the rubber tab piece for? I mean obviously it's part of the bushing but seems like a weird design to me...?!?

94eg!

Lots of Honda bushings are like that. Though usually those tabs are metal. You would have to be a bushing designer to know what they do.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

Interesting. I saw that it can come off so I was just curious.

I can't wait to have these put on. Mine are fairly bad and that's just up top. I have a feeling they are going to be really torn underneath. My steering wheel just kind of goes where it wants to most of the time. And a slight vibration on the wheel over 65.

94eg!

Have you had your alignment checked as well? My car tram-lined like crazy because the rear toe was out. A little toe-out in the back makes this car not-so-fun. After I got it to less than 1mm of toe-in in the rear, it was all good.

Either way you will need an alignment after you get the bushings replaced.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^That makes perfect sense...when I had the cheap jpower ebay camber arms and the tire kingdom set the toe wrong...my car was friggin SCARY as hell.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

Yea I just had my car aligned at Honda. I bet I could have pulled it right back in the bay and it would be off. I thought that was synonymous with these bushings being bad.

I've got a hookup at Honda that will be doing this whole job for me. LCA, alignment and all.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Nice job, man...
I wasted an entire day DIY'ing this (I'm sure you're shocked).

LCA removal was easy...pressing in/out bushings was NOT. I broke my buddy's vice and had to take to a machine shop to do the other side. Took them an hour and cost me 10 bucks...well worth it.

Are you window welding the open spaces?!? I did, and seems to be holding up well.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

^I didn't even consider that. I thought that whole idea got debunked in this thread?

Window welding is still a good idea?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I don't know, but mine still seems to be holding up!
Not sure if it matters, but figured, for an extra $15, it was worth adding some reinforcement to the bushing.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

^Or at the very least it "seals" it from the weather. Thus prolonging the bushing.

Guess I'll give it a go! Thanks

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

Actually on my long drive home I decided I'm not going to fill it with anything. This just seems like one of those parts you don't mess with. That's just me.

94eg!

Maybe give them a spritz of 303 every time you do an oil change... I use it on my CV boots (cause I changed them myself)

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

don't be a chicken Maharaj! get the dang window weld and call it a day, the fact that the oems cracked in under 10 years tells you there's a design flaw...help those poor Honda engineers out with some ghetto engineering!

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

Yea I know. I'm actually more in sync with 94eg. Just keep them treated and if they need replaced again in 80k then so be it.

Next is the type-s top hat bushings...

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

...chi


CKEN...


I agree with 94eg! almost always, but in this case, I honestly don't think that the tears we are seeing are from being exposed and not having some sort of rubber treatment. I mean, I'm sure if you keep it pliable and treated it'll bend and not crack, but I think the sheer force it experiences is what causes the damage. Fk it, I'll put some 303 on mine if you do the weld support on yours! Fair?

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

Negative.

vr6vdub

How exactly are you supposed to torque those bolts down with the car on the ground?

TheBumbino

I just checked mine yesterday while installing my A-Spec lip.

My passenger side bushing has a very small rip in it and my driver side one looks good.

Only at 55k miles on an 08 base.

Going to have to keep an eye on that as the miles climb.

94eg!

You just lay down on your back and reach under the car with your click-type torque wrench. I do this every time I work on my cars suspensions in my garage (no lift or whatever). My civic is really low and I can still reach all the bolts (except UCAs).

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I wish you were local...I'd feed you beers while you did this for me.

mrsimeon

Today they are about an inch cut open.
2 years ago i bought this TL and they were ripped but not soo much.

Has anyone put clear silicone or a sealant to to clog the rips or tears?

I Havd a 2004- 6 spd -NBP- on black interior.
83,000 miles.
The TL drives real good, I'm all stock- no upgrades.
Stock suspension, factory wheels, on Bridgestone Potenza G019
235-45-17

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

An inch cut open?!?! If so, get it taken care of asap. This is not a bushing you want to completely fail on you. And I don't think filling them after they have degraded will get you anywhere. Filling it adds to the base structure, it can't replace it.

I've got my hookup set for Tuesday night. Can't wait for that highway drive home after!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, filling them with anything like that will not add rigidity...I actually wanted to window weld my bad ones back in the day but you can't really get into them...better off buying new ones, add the window weld (or cream soda, or whatever it is that Maharaj is adding in lieu) and then reinstall non damaged ones.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

I'm not adding anything. :P