'04 to '08 front lower control arm bushing failure - please read and look
#563
Three Wheelin'
wow, well that idea's out the window..
im glad i never put them in then, what a waste...
not gonna risk causing an accident for someone else, so i won't sell them either
im glad i never put them in then, what a waste...
not gonna risk causing an accident for someone else, so i won't sell them either
#565
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (3)
Pittman pullers are amazing btw
#567
Three Wheelin'
#571
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
Glad to hear you got yours resolved too!
Ok...went to my buddy's shop, GOD I wish I had a lift at home.
Old one DEFINITELY busted...
Used a little ingenuity, a cutting wheel and random diameter pipes/tank caps etc and a vice. Worked for 1 side, but we ended up breaking the vice. Took side 2 to a local machine shop, $10 and all done. Had I known that, I would just taken off both arms, driven to machine shop, gone back to his shop and had 2 beers and been done with this in 2 hours.
Ok...so now my 2 questions,
1- I used the puller tool to pop lower balljoint out...but of course NOT before using the wrong 4 in the kit. I popped the lower part of the boot up and let me tell you, there is NO way of pulling it back down after. Ended up shredding it. SOOOO...I cannot find this part alone, I JUST need the lower balljoint boot so if you can direct me as to where to buy it, or you have one for sale. Let me know please.
2- upon doing this install, I noticed my outer bushing is ripped too...don't think the inner back one (the rear of the compliance one) is shot, but you can see where the strut fork bolts thru, it's clearly cracked. What are the implications of this type of tear. It's not compliance and not a side to side...the suspension just kinda sits there, so does anyone know what symptoms you would experience with this ripped? Both sides are ripped the same. If it's not a big deal I won't bother changing it.
Thank you!
PS, anyone in South Florida that needs anything welded up/metal work done, or paint work done look up misfitmetal.com , good prices and good friend of mine. Off the gratigny and 32nd.
J.
His next project
99 Honda Shadow...
Ok...went to my buddy's shop, GOD I wish I had a lift at home.
Old one DEFINITELY busted...
Used a little ingenuity, a cutting wheel and random diameter pipes/tank caps etc and a vice. Worked for 1 side, but we ended up breaking the vice. Took side 2 to a local machine shop, $10 and all done. Had I known that, I would just taken off both arms, driven to machine shop, gone back to his shop and had 2 beers and been done with this in 2 hours.
Ok...so now my 2 questions,
1- I used the puller tool to pop lower balljoint out...but of course NOT before using the wrong 4 in the kit. I popped the lower part of the boot up and let me tell you, there is NO way of pulling it back down after. Ended up shredding it. SOOOO...I cannot find this part alone, I JUST need the lower balljoint boot so if you can direct me as to where to buy it, or you have one for sale. Let me know please.
2- upon doing this install, I noticed my outer bushing is ripped too...don't think the inner back one (the rear of the compliance one) is shot, but you can see where the strut fork bolts thru, it's clearly cracked. What are the implications of this type of tear. It's not compliance and not a side to side...the suspension just kinda sits there, so does anyone know what symptoms you would experience with this ripped? Both sides are ripped the same. If it's not a big deal I won't bother changing it.
Thank you!
PS, anyone in South Florida that needs anything welded up/metal work done, or paint work done look up misfitmetal.com , good prices and good friend of mine. Off the gratigny and 32nd.
J.
His next project
99 Honda Shadow...
Last edited by Bearcat94; 02-15-2011 at 09:32 AM. Reason: pics fixed
The following users liked this post:
glennjr15 (01-06-2017)
#572
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (3)
1- I used the puller tool to pop lower balljoint out...but of course NOT before using the wrong 4 in the kit. I popped the lower part of the boot up and let me tell you, there is NO way of pulling it back down after. Ended up shredding it. SOOOO...I cannot find this part alone, I JUST need the lower balljoint boot so if you can direct me as to where to buy it, or you have one for sale. Let me know please.
The part number for the lower boot is 51225-SL5-003 and you'll need new grease to pack the balljoint with. There is a complete procedure in the service manual. parkacuraoemparts(dot)com. $11.63 My local dealer with the best prices on the net
2- upon doing this install, I noticed my outer bushing is ripped too...don't think the inner back one (the rear of the compliance one) is shot, but you can see where the strut fork bolts thru, it's clearly cracked. What are the implications of this type of tear. It's not compliance and not a side to side...the suspension just kinda sits there, so does anyone know what symptoms you would experience with this ripped? Both sides are ripped the same. If it's not a big deal I won't bother changing it.
In my case, they are only superficial surface cracks. I'd say you're fine to leave as-is.
Good job on the lift man, lucky!!!!
The part number for the lower boot is 51225-SL5-003 and you'll need new grease to pack the balljoint with. There is a complete procedure in the service manual. parkacuraoemparts(dot)com. $11.63 My local dealer with the best prices on the net
2- upon doing this install, I noticed my outer bushing is ripped too...don't think the inner back one (the rear of the compliance one) is shot, but you can see where the strut fork bolts thru, it's clearly cracked. What are the implications of this type of tear. It's not compliance and not a side to side...the suspension just kinda sits there, so does anyone know what symptoms you would experience with this ripped? Both sides are ripped the same. If it's not a big deal I won't bother changing it.
In my case, they are only superficial surface cracks. I'd say you're fine to leave as-is.
Good job on the lift man, lucky!!!!
Last edited by gerzand; 01-30-2011 at 09:41 AM.
#573
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
Gerzand, like when I was looking for guidance on the accord fog mod...
YOU ALWAYS COME THRU. Thanks, man...much appreciated. Will do...will leave these bushings...I'm sure they don't serve any purpose other than a resting place and I'm certain it's just a surface crack. Thanks for reiterating that in my head!
YOU ALWAYS COME THRU. Thanks, man...much appreciated. Will do...will leave these bushings...I'm sure they don't serve any purpose other than a resting place and I'm certain it's just a surface crack. Thanks for reiterating that in my head!
#574
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (3)
Gerzand, like when I was looking for guidance on the accord fog mod...
YOU ALWAYS COME THRU. Thanks, man...much appreciated. Will do...will leave these bushings...I'm sure they don't serve any purpose other than a resting place and I'm certain it's just a surface crack. Thanks for reiterating that in my head!
YOU ALWAYS COME THRU. Thanks, man...much appreciated. Will do...will leave these bushings...I'm sure they don't serve any purpose other than a resting place and I'm certain it's just a surface crack. Thanks for reiterating that in my head!
Question for ya.... What did you clean the compliance bushings with before filling them with window weld? I see they have some powder like residue from the moulding process.
Also, where did you pick up your tube of window weld at?
Thx
#575
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
I feel the same way brother...
I just jammed it in there on Tuesday, I didn't take off little rubber leftovers from the molding process, kinda used it as a divider. If there is a powder I would probably use alcohol...I did it all in one shot too and it was hard as a rock by Wednesday.
Bought the stuff at advance auto...although South Florida inflation will get ya...it's $19 for it...
J.
I just jammed it in there on Tuesday, I didn't take off little rubber leftovers from the molding process, kinda used it as a divider. If there is a powder I would probably use alcohol...I did it all in one shot too and it was hard as a rock by Wednesday.
Bought the stuff at advance auto...although South Florida inflation will get ya...it's $19 for it...
J.
#577
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (3)
#579
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
Hey, was wondering, IHC or anyone else...since this compliance bushing is such a failure point on this car...are we adding more stress to it by putting the Progress rear sway?
I thought of this because I thought it was probably a little torn earlier on...but a few months ago I switched the sway bar from street to track...had it like that and one day when it was in the 40's...I was going around a curve and I could swear I actually felt it fail and rip more from that point on when going around curves the front of the car would kinda dance. It was scary. My solution was to drop back to street setting and it got better...but was still there till now that I changed out the compliance bushing.
Just a thought...if it does cause worse damage, figured I'd leave mine set on street from now on and warn people about it!
Thank you!
I thought of this because I thought it was probably a little torn earlier on...but a few months ago I switched the sway bar from street to track...had it like that and one day when it was in the 40's...I was going around a curve and I could swear I actually felt it fail and rip more from that point on when going around curves the front of the car would kinda dance. It was scary. My solution was to drop back to street setting and it got better...but was still there till now that I changed out the compliance bushing.
Just a thought...if it does cause worse damage, figured I'd leave mine set on street from now on and warn people about it!
Thank you!
#580
Has anyone tried just putting some window weld on some already cracked bushings? I was thinking about doing this, lifting the car up off the suspension but not into the air to get the cracked bushings into a 'neutral' position and letting the window weld set. Seems cheap and easy, but possibly too good to be true...
#581
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
Honestly, the tears are SUPER tight...so trying to get window weld in there by moving the bushing by hand, you probably won't be successful. As far as putting it in the existing gaps, you can try...but I think the WW is really to add to the structural integrity...I don't think it's strong enough to PROVIDE the structural integrity once it's torn.
#583
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
they probably won't...
I asked at the local acura dealership once...they told me they've never heard of that failure before. BS...but whatever. If they don't acknowledge it it'll never grow to the point of Acura issuing a recall. I guess a crappy ride isn't enough of a safety concern to fix it.
Now that I've done it once though...I would absolutely not be scared again...borrow that clamp on lower balljoint removal tool...get the lower control arm off in 15 minutes...then drive it to local machine shop. Pay $10 per side to have them press in new ones...have a beer while I wait, and then put it all back together.
Just need to get my alignment redone once more...waiting to make sure I don't want to change anything else before getting the alignment.
I asked at the local acura dealership once...they told me they've never heard of that failure before. BS...but whatever. If they don't acknowledge it it'll never grow to the point of Acura issuing a recall. I guess a crappy ride isn't enough of a safety concern to fix it.
Now that I've done it once though...I would absolutely not be scared again...borrow that clamp on lower balljoint removal tool...get the lower control arm off in 15 minutes...then drive it to local machine shop. Pay $10 per side to have them press in new ones...have a beer while I wait, and then put it all back together.
Just need to get my alignment redone once more...waiting to make sure I don't want to change anything else before getting the alignment.
#585
Bump...
I have read this whole thread today during various breaks, waiting for the page where some elegant solution bubbles to the top and everyone gives three cheers. Oh well.
I noticed my cracked compliance bushings while doing a full brake job at 62,000. I'm at 72,500 now. I have noticed an ever so slight feeling, halfway between a thud and a click, when accelerating from a stop. Could be these bushings, or an engine mount... will be addressing all this summer.
But just to recap, it looks like the preferred move, here, is to replace the bushings with OEM, preferably 04-06 part number, and then to just wait until it happens again in 10-20K miles? What a pisser...
I am very curious to see how Rockstar's window-welded bushings have held up. Hope this thread comes back! Looks like it has a number of times over the past couple of years.
It is a shame that Honda has not acknowledged this issue. You'd think that damn near 600 posts on the topic would indicate a design flaw worth addressing.
Still, though, I've yet to spend a penny on a non-wear/tear item on my '06 A/T and can't complain too loudly. Still will, of course...
I have read this whole thread today during various breaks, waiting for the page where some elegant solution bubbles to the top and everyone gives three cheers. Oh well.
I noticed my cracked compliance bushings while doing a full brake job at 62,000. I'm at 72,500 now. I have noticed an ever so slight feeling, halfway between a thud and a click, when accelerating from a stop. Could be these bushings, or an engine mount... will be addressing all this summer.
But just to recap, it looks like the preferred move, here, is to replace the bushings with OEM, preferably 04-06 part number, and then to just wait until it happens again in 10-20K miles? What a pisser...
I am very curious to see how Rockstar's window-welded bushings have held up. Hope this thread comes back! Looks like it has a number of times over the past couple of years.
It is a shame that Honda has not acknowledged this issue. You'd think that damn near 600 posts on the topic would indicate a design flaw worth addressing.
Still, though, I've yet to spend a penny on a non-wear/tear item on my '06 A/T and can't complain too loudly. Still will, of course...
#586
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
So far, so good, man...I think the window weld is adding that slight amount of support to KEEP it from cracking. Who knows?!
I will say what I immediately noticed when the cracks got bad was when I was going around a curve, the front of the car felt VERY unpredictable.
J.
I will say what I immediately noticed when the cracks got bad was when I was going around a curve, the front of the car felt VERY unpredictable.
J.
#587
Advanced
For those of you who had done it themselves such as 'Rockstar143'...do you know what diamter pipe was used to press the old bushing out of the control arm? Or, does anyone know the overall diameter of the new bushing?
I'm asking so that I know ahead of time what size pipe I need to press out the bushing.
Thanks!
I'm asking so that I know ahead of time what size pipe I need to press out the bushing.
Thanks!
#588
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
I still have my old one...and a micrometer...i'll see if i can get you some exact MM measurements on it tonight...then you'll know what size you need bigger and smaller.
Honestly though...if you have a machine shop locally...pay the $20 to have the new ones pressed in. Serious...take the arms out yourself and drop them off...come back in and hour and reinstall. Wasn't worth the headache IMO. That said, if you have a MONSTER press or vice, you can press them out pretty easily.
J.
Honestly though...if you have a machine shop locally...pay the $20 to have the new ones pressed in. Serious...take the arms out yourself and drop them off...come back in and hour and reinstall. Wasn't worth the headache IMO. That said, if you have a MONSTER press or vice, you can press them out pretty easily.
J.
#589
Advanced
I still have my old one...and a micrometer...i'll see if i can get you some exact MM measurements on it tonight...then you'll know what size you need bigger and smaller.
Honestly though...if you have a machine shop locally...pay the $20 to have the new ones pressed in. Serious...take the arms out yourself and drop them off...come back in and hour and reinstall. Wasn't worth the headache IMO. That said, if you have a MONSTER press or vice, you can press them out pretty easily.
J.
Honestly though...if you have a machine shop locally...pay the $20 to have the new ones pressed in. Serious...take the arms out yourself and drop them off...come back in and hour and reinstall. Wasn't worth the headache IMO. That said, if you have a MONSTER press or vice, you can press them out pretty easily.
J.
I do have a mechanic friend who can press them for me. I thought about removing the arms myself, to help save him time, but I'm somewhat hesitant being I haven't done it before. Granted, I consider myself mechanically inclined but whenever I'm doing something for the first time, I rather have some guidance and/or photos to follow.
#592
Intermediate
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NYC
Age: 36
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
this control arm problem is wack thank god my buddy work at acura & charged me 80 bucks cuz i called a dealer in li and bk they was asking 280 + tax.. then my homie put my car on his lift and did it for 20 bucks....now im thinking i shoulda changed the left one too
#593
Advanced
#595
Took my car into Weir Canyon Acura to have a tearing bushing replaced. 43k miles, lowered on tein h tech. No questions asked, covered by warranty, they had the part and total visit was an hour. While there I asked the parts guy for a few oil drain plug washers, he gave me 4 for free. I love this dealership. They are the same ones that mildly curbed one of my wheels, over a previous curbing that came with the wheels when I bought them. When the repair guy came they paid him to fix two of my wheels, so I got two wheels fixed for free.
Last edited by Dan000; 03-24-2011 at 04:25 PM.
#598
I just checked my compliance bushings.
2008 TL base with 33K miles.
I do see some minor crack, but no major tearing. How bad were some of your bushings when you got them replaced?
Here are a few pics of mine:
2008 TL base with 33K miles.
I do see some minor crack, but no major tearing. How bad were some of your bushings when you got them replaced?
Here are a few pics of mine:
#599
I have an 06 Accord.... I have been experiencing steering issues for a while now... At least 5-10k miles.
Yesterday I was getting new tires put on and saw this:
Left front lower control arm bushing completely torn. My steering issues consist of a very "wandery" steering that is hard to track straight. Yesterday I got some Michelin Primacy MXM4s on so the car should be tracking straight as an arrow. It is tracking straighter than with the old tires, but not as straight as it should be. There is still a wander.....
This could be causing it right? I only have 62,000 miles on my 06 Accord EXL V6
Yesterday I was getting new tires put on and saw this:
Left front lower control arm bushing completely torn. My steering issues consist of a very "wandery" steering that is hard to track straight. Yesterday I got some Michelin Primacy MXM4s on so the car should be tracking straight as an arrow. It is tracking straighter than with the old tires, but not as straight as it should be. There is still a wander.....
This could be causing it right? I only have 62,000 miles on my 06 Accord EXL V6