Mr Heeltoe told me the replacement ones are cheap & easy to replace since it's just sliding the arm out, 2 snap rings, and replace the spherical bearing part.

but he won't tell me the price lol.


I was tempted since it's the front AND back LCA bushings in spherical bearing but then realized OEMs are $30..............

am still tempted.

Woudln't hesitate if the front LCA bushing came with some kind of rubber seal

 

I might have a little chat with Marcus and see what he suggests....

Chad, i like it stiff

but i totally agree with you....am thinking the TL will be a track only car in the next year or 2....i will check my bushings and if they seem fine, i will leave them as is and just upgrade to fastline when its time to hit the track

 

well, looks like I may have to go purchase a new 3 ton jack, breaker bar, and sockets to do this myself.......don't feel like paying someone $95\hr to do it...

 

Anyone know whe base TL bushing is more expensive than the Type-S. I would assume they are interchangeable.

Base Type-S

 

Because, at this point everyone has realized that the base is really the TL that's more prestigious to own.

 

can someone explain to me how compliance bushings can cause vibrations on highway? and only 65-80mph?

 

I don't think they do.
I thought they were my reason, but turns out the tires plus by me can't balance a tire on the high speed or road force, to save their lives.

I think under hard turning your car might feel a little "looser" but even then, it's not like play in the steering rack. I changed my bushings and felt nothing different. Just peace of mind.

 

The bushing you labeled as "Base" is actually the "earlier" bushing. Not necessarily base vs type-s. The later base models (07-08) have your "Type-S" bushing also. The reason the "earlier" bushing is more expensive, is because it is stiffer. This increases feedback & road feel. It is a better bushing, but most average buyers don't want to feel the road anyways.

 

^Eggzachary!

Earlier bushing FTMFW!

They are interchangeable btw.

 

Interesting....

So I was inspecting my motor mounts and lower control arm bushings yesterday and the mounts seemed a little donut-ed....seems like Innovative changed the design on the mounts....contacted them and they said they will replace the whole set for me and I will have to send my old set in for a full refund....NOT BAD....

the control arm bushings looked fine....I dont think I will mess with it now....Wise words from Jeremy "if it aint broke, dont mess with it"....I shall leave them alone for now....

so its gonna be dropping the subframe and changing out the engine mounts and installing the Type S front sway bar with greaseable energy bushings and moog end links

 

Don't have to drop the sub-frame to get to the rear motor mount, do you? Or are you dropping it JUST for the type-s fsb?

 

BINGO !!!

for the fsb you have to drop the subframe...so might as well support the engine and drop the subframe with the motor mounts....

now to find something to support the engine LOL....i dont think couple jacks with 2"x4" will cut it LOL

 

It would be much easier with a hoist...

Man I stare at my type-s fsb all the time. No way I'm dropping the sub frame just for that. That's waiting for the clutch to need changed. Lol

The life of a procrastinator...

 

Well I always like to club things together....I wanted to do the bushings as well but they look fine

so am guessing its just gonna be fsb and mounts...

 

Just replaced my bushings this week.

 

Made her ride nice again, eh?

 

Yep, but I don't feel any difference with the new bushings

 

thanks for your honesty.
I didn't either.

 

That's because your old bushings were actually in really good condition. It's normal to see surface cracking of this kind. They could have gone several more years as they were. Of course the new ones will last even longer proved the person installing them re-assembled your suspension correctly (not fully tightening certain bolts till the car was back on the ground).

 

Yea. Mine were fairly bad. And I felt a difference. Especially at speed.

 

I too felt a huge difference...
my placebo was super stable above around 55mph.


Okay, seriously, I was chasing a poor balanced set of tires for a solid year...this was on the list of things that didn't fix my problem. I'm still glad I changed them though since it got me very intimate with my lower control arm.

 

no change for me either, but mine weren't torn badly.

 

Concord Acura has twice pointed out that my bushings need replaced. The first time was about four years ago. They quoted me a price of $ 550.00 but I am going to go to my Acura mechanic in W.C. and also get a quote from him. I have owned the car since new in April 2004 and it only has 63,000 miles on it. Seems like premature wear to me but it could just be the age factor rather than miles driven. My local mechanic will give me the true skinny on this as he only works on Acura/Hondas and has a reputation for honesty.

 

The hockey puck bushing fails all the time 30,000 miles according to my Acura stealership

 

I pulled them myself and had them pressed at a local machine shop for 20$ per bushing I replaced both and I got them on eBay for 30$ so 90$ total every 30/60k miles ain't too bad but if you don't wanna get your fingernails dirty pay some jerk 500$ by all means

 

Just don't mess up your ball joints when removing them they have to be pressed at a shop and cost 100$ approximately for just parts

 

I just removed my control arm now the hard part of removing the bushing without a tool.

 

I replace those bushings on my 04 tl. You needto remove the whole lower control arm off to replace that bushing. It was alot of hammering to get that bushing out but we got it out and replace them with oem bushings. 40$ each bushing at the dealer

 

There is a tool set you can rent at Advance Auto Parts to both remove these bushings easily and press in the new ones. I used it for the parallel bushing.

 

Negative, ghost rider:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=910

 

ok I called a shop to change all the bushing(6 total) they said 180-240 bucks. So i just went to harbor freight and bought the 20ton shop press for 160 bucks which by the way is a great tool to buy.

I too all the bushing out and new ones in in like 30 minutes. everyhting went smooth. the bushing i bought were ebay bushing though. i figure I might as well try a different brand. I might fill them with window weld. btw I used a pipe i had layign around to push them out which was 70mm. the size needed is anything from 70-73mm that will push the bushing out

The only problem i have is the sleeve for the ;lower balljoint came out of the control arm don't know if its suppose to be tightly in the arm or just pressed in slightly.

and my upper ball joints are almost done also. ill need to change them soon

 

You don't want to hear this but if that ball joint sleeve comes out with the ball joint from the lower control arm, you should replace the entire control arm.

 

Well .. I did the window weld bushings and my window weld popped out of one end of the bushings on both ends.

I ended up going with the fastline performance sphericals and I can definitely say there is a significant difference with them installed.

The LCA moves much much easier, for example when the LCA is unloaded with the shock disconnected and you move it by hand with the stock bushing in its hard to move across its full range due to the compliance bushing, with the fastline it moves across the entire range of the spherical very easily by hand.

Also the road feel is night and day, I can feel a lot more in the road which is sort of a negative and I can tell that my suspension is travelling further down on dips now as well.

My big concern at this point is the aluminum subframe with the fastline bearing. Since it has to take more of the load now due to the travel of the LCA and the spherical bearing I'm worried about it opening up the hole where the spherical bolts to the LCA.

I guess we'll see if that happens, if it does I'll have to have some thick washers welded onto the subframe over the top and bottom of that mounting point to re-enforce it and prevent it from opening up.

 

you cant be serious. do you have any reasoning for this because to me it seems like they are held tight by the bolt.

ill take a picture. and if anything im not about to change the entire arm lol ill just weld the sleeve back in place if i have too

 

Did the sleeve come out on the ball joint while using a pitman puller to remove the ball joint? If you can separate the sleeve from the ball joint and reinsert it, it can be reused.

 

the sleeve is out came out with the arm but when i layed it on the ground it just fell out lol, it was like 30 degrees outside im assuming this had something to do with it. im just going to slap it back in and tighten it down from what i see the sleeve itself is held on tightly by the balljoint and the nut being tightened

 

I made this picture a long time ago so I might as well use it:

 

they just fall into place i didnt press them in ohh well i already installed them. no problems
only thing im worried about is the ebay lower control arm bushings they slid into place way to easy. might have to buy some oem bushings.

 

 

The SM says to replace the control arm if that sleeve comes out. However, others have done exactly what you plan to do with no reported issues. YMMV, dunno. Good luck!