The bearings are totally legit. They are a night and day difference on the steering feel....especially on high speed corners. The car turns in much more accurately.

http://www.heeltoeauto.com/tech-arti...gs-by-pci.html

 

doh! just ordered some bushings for my gf TL. just outta curiosity how much are those sphericals?

 

How hard is to the diy in removing the LCA and re-install it? On scale 1-10?

 

Just did my LCA bushings over the weekend and I gotta say.. MY CAR FEELS BRAND SPANKING NEW! I used 07-08 bushings, bought all 6 (3 on each side) and the car feels amazing. It never drove like this before, for as long as I can remember.

 

^^^^ Why the whole thing? isn't the 2 of the biggest bushing is the culprit?

 

If I understand his current ad, they are 10% off 22-26 Nov...

 

Got about 4,000km on the Fastline Sphericals from Marcus, would never look back. I'll post an update and pics after a wonderful (read cold and roads salted all to hell) winter in NS.
Mak

 

If/When I need to revisit this mod, I'll look into those. So far, got 30K on my OEM bushings with the window weld and not a problem. If I have to do it all again though, I'll be doing the Markus bushings. He wasn't ready for me when I first attempted this.

 

What happens to the ride with these bushings?

 

Haha, the Markus bushings?

First off I am MARCUS not Markus, and secondly they are not Me Bushings they are Fastline Compliance bearings.

 

The ride on smooth roads is roughly the same, but more "feel" of the surface through the wheel. Beautiful on the highway, feels really tight. On rough roads, or potholes you definitely feel the impact more through the front end. But as I said I'm in NS Canada and most roads are shit, lol, but I'm quite content with them.

 

Sorry, I have a cousin that spells it with a "k". Didn't mean any harm.

Well, in case you missed the point, I was stating that I'd buy them from you if I ever have to make this repair again, which was a compliment. I can make the reason why I thought you manufactured them yourself, or the reason why I didn't end up getting to try them public if you like, but I highly doubt you'd want that.

J.

 

Good to know. I'll be interested to see how they look after this winter, particularly interesed to see if corrosion becomes an issue.

Did you replace all 4 or just the compliance bushings?

 

How much did those healtoes cost? I have an 04/Nav with 238k on it and my original oem's have cracked but have had an alignment specialist say he wouldn't change them if the car was his. Thing is I get a (very) little shake at 70mph. Wheels just balanced and aligned. Going on a cross country trip to cali and back and plan on cruising at 70. Would like to eliminate that little shake. Think new bushings might help?

 

I can grab the lead on this one for those of you in the same bewilderment of the proposed first post and question for ole Putt here.

Well putt, being that I'm not a mechanic but read this post going back 3 years......I would most certainly say the bushings would help at 238K miles. Glad i could help.

P.S. Xenon fluid also will make your headlights brighter which will in turn add 20 WHP. Good luck.

 

^^^that could have been a pertinent post if you deleted the second sentence.

 

I found this gadget on the internet. Evidently some enterprising person noticed how many people need to replace the bushings and made a tool to do it. Of course most of the labor is getting the control arm off, but not everyone has a press.

http://www.autotoolworld.com/product...FelDMgodyTsANQ

 

Yeah, IIRC an Azine member bought one of those and loved it...

 

That's great except you can get the same thing from Harbor Freight for $80 (when using a 20% off coupon), and it includes a $h!t-ton more accessories. I've used this tool for pressing Integra wheel bearings. I've also used the cups & discs to press rear trailing arm bushings. It's definitely worth as long as the forcing screw will fit through the bolt hole in the center of the bushing.

Here's the tool set: http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-fro...ers-66829.html

Here is my review of the tool for use on wheel bearings: http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2984426

Just a heads up.

 

I got the compliment man, no worries

I am sure I don't know what you are referring to but I will just let it be.

That's the tool I go, works like a charm.

 

wow I just discovered this interesting thread yesterday.

Someone mentioned this but I didn't see an answer: do the 07/08 models have the problem too? better? worse?

My '08 has 20,500 miles and is 4.5 years old and from what I can tell they don't look cracked and seem fine. Car drives and handles fine, too. I'll have to turn the wheels tomorrow for installing new bulbs so I'll take a closer look then.

 

Can't edit posts I guess?

Anyway reading more of the thread it seems like the 07/08 have pretty much the same problems.

 

Agreed, Marcus.

Above posts...yes, I'm sure that newer ones WILL have the issue no matter what...it's a design flaw.

 

Do the bushings make any sound when you turn? I know my are bad, Im getting a tap tap sound(doesn't sound like metal hitting metal) I got the car checked and the axles seem fine , I did get a boot and the things that got inside replaced on the right side which is where the sound comes from. My mechanic put the car on the lift an squeezed the bushing and they made a sound similar to what I hear when I turn, The sound mostly happens when the car is cold.

 

If your outer axle assembly is bad it can make a click click click when you are turning. Its usually the outer section that goes bad vs the inner.

 

So I put in my new headlights and fog lights and also looked at the bushings while the tires were turned sideways. On my 2008 with 20,500 miles I inspected both of them and mine appear fine with no ripping or tearing.

 

I just did a DIY on my compliance bushings, putting the cheaper 06 version on my stock 04 TL. The old ones were torn worse than those photos I've seen on this forum. I used the Honda socket-handle ball joint separation trick on the first side and all it did was press out the sleeve, not the ball joint, so don't do that on the TL arms. Went to three different parts stores to borrow the right (adjustable/heavy duty) ball joint separator, as the Pitman style ones would either not grab the flange or not even fit over the arm. Paid my local machine shop $40 to press the two bushings in. Noticed then that the shock mount bushings on the arm also looked crummy after the shop cleaned up the arms (huge oil leak) but I left them in there. That's because with a c-clamp style kit mentioned and pictured in this thread I believe you could press in new shock mount bushings without removing the LCA. I am at 110k on original dampers so I expect to do replacements soon. I had a tough time tightening the lower ball joints as the shaft was spinning. Saw some youtube ball joint tightening tricks but on one side just used a flat screwdriver under the castle nut to create some tension on the ball joint taper, but on the second side I needed plan B. That involved using the removable four foot long handle from my floor jack jammed between the bottom of the shock fork and pushing down on the tie rod end to put pressure on the lower ball joint. I had one of my teenagers sit on the end of the bar while I tightened the castle nut and that worked. Torqued everything with the car under load.

PS: Use the right tool, the right way, to remove the lower ball joint. Not a hammer on the threaded shaft because when you thread the nut onto even slightly damaged threads the resistance will cause the shaft of the ball joint to turn making it impossible to tighten.

 

^^^very good tips!

I tried to use a fork style too and tore the boot by pulling it over the assembly. The right way is the 2 armed puller that comes in the kit at advance auto...it's just perfect to reach up and grab above the LCA to push thru.

and 100 percent right...go to a machine shop and pay the $40. Fk that.

 

how important is the orientation of the bushing? like does it need to be dead on down to the millimeter or is like 5-6 millimeters off okay? anything noticeable?

 

just found my passenger side LCA rip! has anyone having any effect on the vehicle due to the bushings being rip? My car has a loud know on cold start up and i already replaced my passenger side motor mount. all the other mounts are good!

 

hey rockstar, how's your windo weld bushings holding up?? i'm guessing they're fine..

 

also, i found a poly replacement (finally, about time.)

if the 7G accord one fits ours.... here's the link to bushing page
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...?prod=SPF2945K


and here is the link to installation on 7g accord but is down for now
http://www..net/forums/7g-wheels-tir...-bushings.html

 

Heres a working link to the forum

for some reason, acurazine hides V-6-p-e-r-f-o-r-m-a-n-c-e . Just add that to the URL, without the dashes, and the link works.

or for the lazy
https://www.google.com/search?q=foru...a&channel=fflb

 

found another urethane replacement - this one doesn't have metal ring.
http://www.v6.performance.net/forums...gs-review.html

 

Urethane will be DESTROYED in this application. They are meant only to allow rotation of the inner sleeve....not deflection or pivot. In fact this is what happens to a poly compensartor bushing after a couple years when it's mounted the "correct" way (from a Civic/Integra):

 

^ but superpro has 3 year 36k mile (i think? it was in kms) warranty........ ?!

except they're in australia lol

 

 

OK so are the LCA themselves the same on the 04 through 08? Do any other Honda vehicles share the exact same LCA?

 

The bushings on the OEM 07-08 arms are softer than the 04-06. At least that's true for the large compliance bushing. Worse for performance, but better for ride quality.

 

But I assume the arms themselves are the same?