He gives me good deals bro
Since he is the only one I shop for my TL from...I feel like getting the exhaust too

and this is fawking tempting
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...6#post14592486

But I just can't throw 900$ to change something that still works on my car

True J. haha I have the exact same middle spot scratched.
I am comparing with Austin and with 2" longer res, I might not be able to get a RASP... let's see, I don't know

Light rasp wouldn't bother me though..

 

Do it Meko...you won't get RV6 that cheap, that's for sure.
If you don't mind rasp, then you'll be just fine.

 

He might be in Boston sometime in October too...
It has resonator though.. that would reduce the rasp I guess or very minimal rasp

Stock tips would want some work to fit in there right?
Pipe is wider

 

You're not going to want the oem look after spending a grand. Trust me on that...
Dude, enjoy the no rasp, if it's too quiet, change it up. Don't hack that baby up for no reason though. Listen to it in person, if it sounds awesome, work out a deal.

 

Plenty of ways to get any exhaust to not rasp. That XLR8 is a good deal.

I think Josh once told me I could get that exhaust without tips for pretty cheap...

 

Let's be honest here...if there aren't any tips, Chad ain't at that party.


Hope you're in a jovial mood...

 

Well just put the tip in and I'll see how jovial mood I'm in.

 

Hahahaha

True I should hear it in person first.
But is that really a good price? On Heeltoe it comes to $943.41 with shipping and with swoosh coupon

Let me ask that to Josh

 

I could have sworn the the swoosh coupon actually added to the price...could be wrong though.

Hey, maybe it's not a good price, but if he'll meet you, no shipping, and will take more like $700-750 for it, might be worth your time!

Chad, I'm sad...the tip was in when you said that. Meaning, you didn't feel nuthin

 

It actually did, I had to call up Marcus to get it right



700$? Oh hell yeah

Awww Chad is not online

 

lol.......!

 

Jeremy....funny enough, I told him the same thing when he said about getting PCD's....the first thing I told him was, there is gonna be rasp...

I will kinda disagree with you, again, on the rasp from jpipe...the kinda rasp you had gotten was not (all) from the jpipe....there had to be other variables and as you mentioned you had an exhaust leak....

if he gets the jpipe and a resonated test pipe, he should be perfectly fine with his current setup....the OEM mufflers do a good job of reducing the rasp....

but i do agree on do it all or do nothing at all LOL...

Meko, if you are planing on changing out anything, I would change out everything....

I know there was some one on the east coast (check the BM and FB page) who wanted to trade the OEM exhaust with the XLR8 or RV6 exhaust....this should be a great deal for you since you wont have the exhaust hanging out....

I ended up selling my jpipe separately and chopped up the muffler/tips and sold those separately...the down pipe i just had to throw away since shipping it was not economical AT ALL....

so look for a trade...then do the jpipe and exhausts....enjoy the exotic sounds J series motor....then do the PCD's IF your state law allows otherwise just see if someone is selling type S cats....that might add to the growl, it will be legal, will gain you 1HP (LOL, kidding)...i would certainly not pay 400-500 for HFC's unless you get a deal where you buy them for 200 bucks....fuck i sold my OEM precats for 150 shipped....

 

Yep...well, the jpipe definitely accentuated any other issues I had in my exhaust...and then the primaries did the same thing on top!

I think so too...jpipe seems so easy...but it's the gateway drug! You get that and you will be intrigued to do full exhaust and primaries.

 

this man is speaketh the troof

 

With guidance, I've managed to learn just enough to get me INTO and OUT OF trouble with this car.

 

hahah same here brother....

done a lot of stupid shit with the car and with guidance, have been able to go back and either better it, or back it out, or just fuck it up enough to just like it LOL

 

Amen...
my newest plight is:
revisit almost any and all t-taps that I mutilated the stock wiring with and solder them on correctly. That and also wrapping all exposed wiring with wiring loom and tiewrapping it out of the way to keep the clean look.

 

^I feel so much better about my recent installs because I know the wiring is clean, soldered, and waterproofed.

 

Big time...far cry from my initial attempts at ANYTHING 5 years ago when my only goal was "Can I install this fast without removing ___________". Or, hooking it up to see if it worked, turns on and then YAY...zip tie everything and leave it!

 

I have done all solders right on my car so far....I hate t-taps....

when I installed the roll up module, I used the t-taps and they just wudnt work...so I stripped the wire using a dull knife, connected to new wire, solder, wrap in rubber insulation, wrap everything in insulation tape....

going forward, I have always preferred that to t-taps....no t-taps on my car

 

Dull knife?

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-...ter-98410.html

$4 man. Worth it's weight in gold.

 

I have had some bad luck with that tool....end up cutting the wire

so I just take a dull knife and go around it....works perfectly for me...

now if the wire is well exposed and i dont feel its going to come out of the connector, I use that tool...so even if i cut it, I have some slack

 

Really? Well that sucks. It's never done me wrong.

 

maybe it was a user error

 

First of all, fuh the person who designed our center console.

with that said... reason I want to keep everything stock, even moving my upper fog to bottom is THAT!!!

You guys know I really love to play with wires
I still hate hate hate that I cut my airbag and vsa wire (don't ask how Chad )
Whenever it comes to my mind I go angry

Don't like thinking 2 wire there is not perfect

anywayssssssssssss good luck J.

-------------------

Where did you guys get the HFPCD idea? I didn't say anything like that. Hell no

My idea is. Only get a test pipe for the 3rd cat. Leave the J-Pipe stock since some says good some says bad.
Leave it to Acura design. F. it
If I see a used ATLP V1 J-Pipe for cheap price. I'll jump on it since it's the one that matched the OEM design the most..

So test pipe is my aim right now. And a catback.
Catback before J-Pipe because you know why.....
I just explained it + my stock exhaust saw too many welding

So that idea kind of makes it perfect in my head. Even brand new ATLP V1 J-pipe is cheap but why waste money, since no problem with stock and some say stock is good.
If I see a used one, I'll buy it and test it.
Longer pipe, reducing low rpm power makes sense to me...

Well, let's see with the 3rd cat delete. You knoo me I'll feel any little difference

Anil, are you talking about FCVadi? He is the only one selling a catback


-------------------

Ohhh just tried to take out my cd player to open it up if I could fix it or not. The moment I noticed that I have to move back the middle console...................... I said f u and put everything back.

What kind of a design is this for god sake
Why not like BMW just pull the audio player and that's it

Anyways, didn't put the left knee cover in, because will connect my usb/android thing from there

Aww maan why are you guys offline

 

I never remove the sides to get the radio out...you can push them out of the way enough to get at the screws.

 

so whats the problem again Meko....post was toooo long to read

 

I couldn't pull out the nav and radio out, because the top of the (2 box thing in front of the shift) pushes it towards front.
In order to pull the audio toward rear of the car, I have to move the 2 box frame, which is the whole middle console.


And as it looks like, nav and audio comes out at the same time, couldn't separate it while it's there...

Arshole

-I never said I want HFPCD.
-I will buy XLR8 test pipe to delete 3rd cat
-My next goal will be a catback, used
-My next next goal will be buying cheap used ATLP v1 J-pipe, if I found one on BM, because it's the only one that has a design that matches OEM.

Bish



Dammit, both of you offline again

 

so whats the problem again?

and its asshole, asshole


I have a text from you clearly stating you want HFC

well then dont change anything right now....just get a jpipe + test pipe or a long-er jpipe and be done with it....just piece meal the jpipe and exhaust....

and why do you want a jpipe + test pipe....why not just a jpipe which replaces your 3rd cat?

 

Are you gonna read? Look read this, the bottom part

I don't believe the dyno numbers, road is different, dyno is different.
PLUS, hearing from you + from some others that stock J-Pipe has a better low end powaar, I don't feel like wasting $450 on a something that we are not sure of.

Instead, I'll pay $130 to delete the 3rd cat to increase the flow.

AFTER that, my goal would be catback to turn that flow into better one. Not a J-pipe for $450

Catback, because my brain doesn't aprove my stock exhaust that has 8 re-welded spots

---

Also, stock J-pipe having the shortest pipes before turning in to one, makes me think that, shorter the pipe is, better the low end power is.
RV6 is the longest, may be that causes to lower the low rpm power and gain high rpm power.

I don't want that

Have you seen ATLP v1 J-pipe? It's the closest design to stock J-pipe.
Iffffff someone will update their v1 to RV6 or v3 blah blah, I'll go ahead and buy his v1 J-pipe for a cheap price.
Since it's v1...old

and try how it performs compared to stock J-pipe
still, I wouldn't be endup throwing $450 to replace something on my car that works, and which some people say stock J-pipe is better.

I don't like wasting money on something that works on my car.

Read it!!!!!!!!!
Here I'll throw you a cookie
Since you like posts that has picture in them.

 

well the stock jpipe has better low end since it has more back pressure...

for high end you need more surface area, RV6 offers that, so it gains more as you go higher in the rev range....

seeing the videos you has posted, you if you want gains, you want fucking open header setup

my point being, are you even going to get PCD's or HFC's? whats your state law....?

if you never going to remove the cats, dont bother with the exhaust...you are restricting the flow right there, then why even put $100 in changing anything...gains will be minimum....if you want a little better sound, change the OEM muffs for magnaflow and some tips

 

I don't know the laws but I wouldn't touch precats anyway.
Do you have open headers? Exactly...

Changing OEM mufflers is changine the tone, I am telling you, no way wasting money on welding anymore. I am going to throw a muffler there, after that, hate the piping.

My goal is always to have something clean.
I'll be happy with a 3rd cat delete and a nice clean catback.

 

you dont need a 3rd cat delete then LOL

 

anyway am off to sleep...dont you dare call me LOL

 

Aw maaan, why aren't you at work

 

Let me share some cars from a Turkish FB page. Anil scroll to bottom











































Could go and drive on the F1 track in Istanbul




Anil!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Look his name is Anil, and that's how he got the license plate
Told you Anil is also a Turkish name
You could custom the letters and the last numbers
3 letter or 2 letter

 

I remove all the center console sections, but have NEVER removed the sides. Ever...and I promise you I've had my radio out no less than 15 times.

 

This whole revolt against jpipes is making me laugh. Lol

 

Ban j-pipes!!!

 

I resent that ish...
anyone that wants my J "pipe" should let me know.