Progress Thread
What is the distance from the ground to the top arch of each fender? That measurement is the best way to gauge how slammed you are.
takin care of Business in
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From: Kansas City, MO
^^^ on the summer setup, I was at 24" and some change...not really 24.25"...somewhere in the middle....
winter, I bet I would be 25 and some change....i usually raise her up an inch for the winter....but then again, an running 17" wheels for winter, so dont know if that changes anything
winter, I bet I would be 25 and some change....i usually raise her up an inch for the winter....but then again, an running 17" wheels for winter, so dont know if that changes anything
takin care of Business in
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Kansas City, MO
Tire 1 - 235/35R19 Tire 2 - 235/40R18
Section Width: 9.25 in 235 mm Section Width: 9.25 in 235 mm
Rim Diameter: 19 in 482.6 mm Rim Diameter: 18 in 457.2 mm
Rim Width Range: 8 - 9.5 in Rim Width Range: 8 - 9.5 in
Overall Diameter: 25.47 in 646.93 mm Overall Diameter: 25.40 in 645.16 mm
Sidewall Height: 3.23 in 82.042 mm Sidewall Height: 3.70 in 93.98 mm
Radius: 12.73 in 323.34 mm Radius: 12.70 in 322.58 mm
Circumference: 80.01 in 2032.2 mm Circumference: 79.79 in 2026.6 mm
Revs per Mile: 816.6 Revs per Mile: 818.8
So it pretty much the same total height even if you are on 18" and he is on 19"
Section Width: 9.25 in 235 mm Section Width: 9.25 in 235 mm
Rim Diameter: 19 in 482.6 mm Rim Diameter: 18 in 457.2 mm
Rim Width Range: 8 - 9.5 in Rim Width Range: 8 - 9.5 in
Overall Diameter: 25.47 in 646.93 mm Overall Diameter: 25.40 in 645.16 mm
Sidewall Height: 3.23 in 82.042 mm Sidewall Height: 3.70 in 93.98 mm
Radius: 12.73 in 323.34 mm Radius: 12.70 in 322.58 mm
Circumference: 80.01 in 2032.2 mm Circumference: 79.79 in 2026.6 mm
Revs per Mile: 816.6 Revs per Mile: 818.8
So it pretty much the same total height even if you are on 18" and he is on 19"
Looks like back on page 28 you wanted tein basis?
SCREW THAT. they aren't damper adjustible
The Tein Street Advance are height and damper adjustable. I paid 850 SHIPPED from Excelerate.
Heeltoe wanted I think $940ish because shipping was more expenive from california.
For the extra 150$ its worth it for dampening adjustibility. My car felt near stock as far as comfort..just much lower
You'll just have to buy or reuse your OEM tophats. I chose to reuse.
SCREW THAT. they aren't damper adjustible
The Tein Street Advance are height and damper adjustable. I paid 850 SHIPPED from Excelerate.
Heeltoe wanted I think $940ish because shipping was more expenive from california.
For the extra 150$ its worth it for dampening adjustibility. My car felt near stock as far as comfort..just much lower
You'll just have to buy or reuse your OEM tophats. I chose to reuse.
OK
Tire: 255/40/18
Rim: 18X8.75 +35 Offset
Add 20mm spacer to stock rims... that rims will stay at that point
No need for spacer
Someone correct me if I am wrong
Why 255? Because I don't want the rim to stretch out like that FRS
But want those rims
Also I have to fill the gap in that fender with 255....From side and top
I rather stay high (if you know what I mean) than lowering the car to top of the tire and leaving the sides of the tire short, like very inside of the fender
So I do need bigger width
255 x 0.40 = 102mm, that's the side of the tires
235 x 0.45 = 105.75mm, that's for the stock rim
So not that' bad, not big not small, ok for 18" rim
Would fill the fender pretty well
Bigger tire diameter is more height but got coils...
Does my thoughts sound good or right?
http://www.nlmotoring.com/XXR-535-Wh.../53588652n.htm
http://www.mavistire.com/ProductCart...?id=9983&frb=B

$572.56 Tires
$600ish Wheels
$960 ISC N1 from XLR8
$220 Tint
Roll the fenders
find $2350
goto John
That's all I have to do
Guess, I will take JnC's advice
Tyler
your car looks good. Shudup
quanaman, why not N1 if you were going to pay 850? No need to reuse tophats
Tire: 255/40/18
Rim: 18X8.75 +35 Offset
Add 20mm spacer to stock rims... that rims will stay at that point
No need for spacer
Someone correct me if I am wrong
Why 255? Because I don't want the rim to stretch out like that FRS
But want those rims
Also I have to fill the gap in that fender with 255....From side and top
I rather stay high (if you know what I mean) than lowering the car to top of the tire and leaving the sides of the tire short, like very inside of the fender
So I do need bigger width
255 x 0.40 = 102mm, that's the side of the tires
235 x 0.45 = 105.75mm, that's for the stock rim
So not that' bad, not big not small, ok for 18" rim
Would fill the fender pretty well
Bigger tire diameter is more height but got coils...
Does my thoughts sound good or right?
http://www.nlmotoring.com/XXR-535-Wh.../53588652n.htm
http://www.mavistire.com/ProductCart...?id=9983&frb=B

$572.56 Tires
$600ish Wheels
$960 ISC N1 from XLR8
$220 Tint
Roll the fenders
find $2350
goto John
That's all I have to do

Guess, I will take JnC's advice

Tyler
your car looks good. Shudupquanaman, why not N1 if you were going to pay 850? No need to reuse tophats
Last edited by MEKO; Jan 30, 2013 at 06:10 PM.
You're going to have rubbing issues with that wide of a tire. 255mm = 10" wide. Even if you're only modestly low, that beefy of a tire could create problems. No need to overdo it. There would be almost no stretch with a 235 or even a 225 tire in a 8.75 wheel. My 215's on my 8.75's are BARELY stretched. Fill the wheel gap by lowering the car, not by running a fatter tire.
Yeah dude, my rim sticks past my tire BARELY. It's not a stretch at all.
With 235 and 2" lower, no rubbing issues at all.
Put it this way, your stock tires run 235 and that's on an 8" wide rim. Adding .50 or .75" is hardly anything.
With 235 and 2" lower, no rubbing issues at all.
Put it this way, your stock tires run 235 and that's on an 8" wide rim. Adding .50 or .75" is hardly anything.
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30,994
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From: Kansas City, MO
235 will provide more than enough protection and will not be stretched. I have 235's on my 8.5" rim....I like the 535's, they look sexy!!!
...and dont get spacers now....put the wheels and coils, let the coils settle....and then add spacers
but with a 8.75" rim and 235 tires, I dont think you will need more than a 10-15mm spacer....
and funny thing is I have sold my coils (tein basics but they are still sitting in my garage waiting for spring so I can get install on the guys car)....I could have sold you my coils + 5 tires (4 almost new and 1 brand new) for $1000 shipped....all you need after that is rims + tint....done in 1700 bucks LOL....
...and dont get spacers now....put the wheels and coils, let the coils settle....and then add spacers
but with a 8.75" rim and 235 tires, I dont think you will need more than a 10-15mm spacer....
and funny thing is I have sold my coils (tein basics but they are still sitting in my garage waiting for spring so I can get install on the guys car)....I could have sold you my coils + 5 tires (4 almost new and 1 brand new) for $1000 shipped....all you need after that is rims + tint....done in 1700 bucks LOL....
Forget shipping, I would drive down there with the rims and install everything with you. Reason to meet you guys 
Right, you paid like 2K right Austin?
What were the rims again? XXR 530?

That's right Austin has 18X9
But, what if I get the wheels 18x8.75 with +20 Offset
Wouldn't that be perfect? No need for spacers?
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,245
Likes: 20,199
There are 2 surefire ways to protect your rims.
Curb it once yourself. You likely won't ever do it again after all the anguish.
Don't let wife driver you car or your rims on her car. Lesson learned.
Fender to ground I'm at 23 5/8" Front and 24" even rear.
The biggest factor in your lowered appearance and FTG in inches (aside from the suspension itself) is the corrected camber. Going from negative 3 to 1 will raise the car a good half inch. I'm ballparking it, but I bet I'm not far off. My camber is corrected from the top on both front and rear and is between -1 and -1.5.
Obviously a drastic difference in rim size makes a difference too...if I were to slap on some 16's my car would appear a lot lower...becuase although measured, the rim and tire 's inverse relationship would balance out, tires give when you put 3500 pounds on em...rims don't. And when a tire is tucked into the fender, it looks a lot lower than when it's just sitting at the fender.
Meko...one corner at a time. GIT ER DUNNNNN!
Curb it once yourself. You likely won't ever do it again after all the anguish.
Don't let wife driver you car or your rims on her car. Lesson learned.

Fender to ground I'm at 23 5/8" Front and 24" even rear.
The biggest factor in your lowered appearance and FTG in inches (aside from the suspension itself) is the corrected camber. Going from negative 3 to 1 will raise the car a good half inch. I'm ballparking it, but I bet I'm not far off. My camber is corrected from the top on both front and rear and is between -1 and -1.5.
Obviously a drastic difference in rim size makes a difference too...if I were to slap on some 16's my car would appear a lot lower...becuase although measured, the rim and tire 's inverse relationship would balance out, tires give when you put 3500 pounds on em...rims don't. And when a tire is tucked into the fender, it looks a lot lower than when it's just sitting at the fender.
Meko...one corner at a time. GIT ER DUNNNNN!
MEKO, +20 is a bit aggressive...1/4" isn't enough to make up for 10mm more poke.

It's doable...just don't know if you want to run that.
Here's a thread you should probably see
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/8-5-rim-flush-fender-what-offset-needed-help-855025/

It's doable...just don't know if you want to run that.
Here's a thread you should probably see

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/8-5-rim-flush-fender-what-offset-needed-help-855025/
My 8.75+20's are almost flush, but not completely. I don't consider it that aggressive. When you have to pull/roll fenders and run huge negative camber and a crazy stretch, then I consider it aggressive hehe. I could probably run a 5mm spacer if I wanted with minimal rubbing. However, to be that low and flush, I can't run anything wider than 215 tires.
Meko, if you're dead set on those 535's and want to be modestly aggressive without overdoing it, MY suggestion is to get 18x8.75+20's with 225/40/18 tires, then drop it just enough to get rid of any wheel gap. Similar to the 530's, I think you will be losing some of the concavity if you go +35 instead of +20, which is part of what makes the 535's look good.
Meko, if you're dead set on those 535's and want to be modestly aggressive without overdoing it, MY suggestion is to get 18x8.75+20's with 225/40/18 tires, then drop it just enough to get rid of any wheel gap. Similar to the 530's, I think you will be losing some of the concavity if you go +35 instead of +20, which is part of what makes the 535's look good.










Not cutting springs, for the love of TLs!







