Wow...those CE's!

 

@ Kix`nTL, 19x9.5 +22, rolled and pulled fenders. front and rear camber kit.

 

My contribution...

 

^^looking stellar son.


Now thats a clean acura. custom interior too....oooooweee.

 

John has a custom interior?

05, your ish is gorgeous, man....nicely put together.

 

oops, confused him with another member. clean car nonetheless.

 

LOL...he's still a baller, I'm sure he'll be honored!

 

What are your wheel specs?! That's awesome fitment.

 

Thanks, but i couldn't have done it without the help of Azine

19x9.5 +22 all four corners

225-35-19 falken 452's

 

Moar camber plz:

 

show off...baller...meh.
ok, maxed on teins...(that's like highest ride height for you "other" coilover guys...)

and alignment specs.

 

Sorry just had to quote this again. OMFG That's a nice car, dont remember ever seeing it. Great job.

 

Watch, I'll probably still have klunk issues when I try to re-lower it with the new UCA's installed.

 

I pray that you don't, John...what I would do though...is put something up on there above the LCA (like maybe that target paper that is black but turns neon green when you scratch it)...tape it up in there really well. Because from what I gather...when you use these camber plates...you won't hit like where I do with the balljoint nut. (since the profile on these is no taller than the oem UCA).
SOOO...if you do "clunk"...you'd be able to look above and see the marking on the paper...plus, it'll be further out than mine, I'm sure.

 

Yeah, I was under there this weekend and there's a fingernail-shaped mark on both shock towers underneath from the stock UCA's hitting. Nothing can be seen from above, which makes it tricky, because I'd be scared to death of hitting one of the AC lines if I drilled from the bottom on the passenger side.

Those with the Skunk2 front camber kit....are you running max negative camber (non-hellaflush)? I plan to set the arms to full negative when I install them...

 

^John, thats what i did when i insatlled my rims. i loosened the allen bolts and went max camber (only got like -1.8/-2.0 camber in the front)

Its enough for me though. Good luck

ps. they look anyways, and they are hella easy to work on

 

^Thanks man. Why'd you only get to -2.0 camber....the max should be -3.0 on the Skunk2's I thought...

 

Fcking sick Jeremy....love the wingless look

 

I asked the tech the same thing (when i was getting my car aligned)...his response was every car cambers differently, and that its probably in the body of the car somewhere (i guess its all the mounting points?!?).

others on here have said they only got around -1.5 camber with these i believe.

-2 was enough for me though. any more camber wouldn't have helped me any. i already rub when turning the wheel while on an incline. more camber wouldn't fix that.

 

Good info, thanks. In that case, I'll still plan on maxing the negative camber before installing and hoping for the best. I think the rubbing when entering an incline with the wheels turned is inevitable. That doesn't bother me too much since it only happens at very slow speeds.

 

I love those wheels on it. Now just space it out.

 

John and 05, I am almost positive I was hitting negative 1.5 or 2 camber when I first slammed my car...is there a potential that since this thing is designed to help you add camber it's not worth installing?!?

Just a thought, I KNOW John has 300 bucks he could spend on something else.
I want to say that you could likely go much more negative than that with the balljoint nut flipped the other way (the SPC one I have).

Matt, thank you sir!

 

skunk2 will not give much camber. -3 MAX but more around -2.5; it is only one arm pulling in the top of the wheel, so tehre will be a lot of other factors in how much camber you get. if we had LCA as well, than we could fine tune

 

I installed the skunk2 arms when i wanted to "correct" my camber (note: i was on staockies at the time and didnt think i wanted to run natural camber when lowering). All that changed a month later when i decided to get teh new rims

for most people, natural camber is enough, but i wanted my camber equal on both sides, so i still dont mind having bought the skunk2 kit (i got a deal in the BM for skunk2 arms and ingalls rear camber kit)

Makes sense.

 

Gotcha...well, figured you were a done deal! It was mainly for John since I'm pretty sure he paid full price AND hasn't installed yet.
They are gorgeous and a much nicer option than the adjustable balljoint, no doubt.

 

I actually went to install them this morning, but couldn't get the OEM ball joint screw to separate from the main suspension arm. So I put everything back together and I bought one of these...hopefully it'll help:

I missed out on the Skunk2 GB that Marcus was running unfortunately, but Josh at Excelerate gave me a good deal on the Skunk2 kit. I almost bought it from the Heeltoe site, but it told me shipping was going to be $38, so that killed it for me. The Skunk2 kit is beautiful and very well crafted. Once I get that damn ball joint separated, the install should be a breeze. Since I run spacers, I know I'm going to need to tweak the camber once I get the front height where I want it in order to prevent rubbing (and clunking)...and since I plan to be pretty low, the traditional ball joint camber kit is not an option. In addition, in the winter I'll probably raise it up and make sure the camber is at oem spec, so that makes an adjustable kit a must for me. I feel like the money was well spent on the Skunk2 kit!

 

I had the same problem where I couldn't get the tow separated. That fork does do the trick though. I have the skunk2's and still "clunk" on really hard bumps. Just to where you can see the C shape scratches in the top of the well.

 

 

^^^I toldja that!

Yeah, that fork works...I THINK I was able to get it last time with just a hammer hit and sledge hit on the other side...but I can't remember...the fork DOESN'T work on the LCA balljoint though. It rips the boot...be careful to push the boot up above the fork or the fork will pinch and rip it.

I may have even put the castle nut back on and hammer it up, but I've damaged the threading that way before.

 

^Good tips, thanks. I tried wedging a 2x4 between the ground and the underside of the UCA arms and then jumping up and down on the rotors, but that did nothing but tick me off hehe. I have to take deep breaths when I work on my car because Murphy's Law gets me every time...

 

Maxed out my HT spec coils out of curiousity... flame suit on









Raised the rear up a tiny bit to reduce it rubbing off my 255s & to stop dragging my catback...



corrupted file but looks cool imo.



thinking of changing wheels color soon cuz i curbed one at the drive thru.

 

^^^Wow...that was SLAMMED...
John, yeah, leverage ain't it...it requires a solid bang with a metal on metal hammer...

OR, the fork...they lend it you at autozone btw.

 

Badassvtec got a badass whip! Man that is sexy!

 

FAP FAP FAP. makes me want air

 

Haha totally missed these comments. Thanks d00ds!

Yeah the guy told me that I could just rent it, but it was only $10 so I just bought it. Going to take another crack at the ball joint tomorrow (pun intended).

 

^John, that pickle fork will make easy work of the balljoint. i barely had to hit it with a small sledge hammer and mine popped right out. the knuckle even slid right off the balljoint too, all i had to do was lift the upper control arm to seperate the two.


ps. you can either remove your coilovers to mount the skunk2 arms easily or you might have to twist the coils around to get the original bolts out and back in. i just twisted my coils when removing the bolts and installing them

 

as stated just hit the arm with a hammer repeatedly until it gives haha sometimes ive spent 2 seconds other times literally an hour

 

If u got the hella flush ones..u have to flip the ball joint to get the 3degrees...if u don't u will only get 1.5 negative camber...I'm runnin 3 degrees in front with skunk 2 arms and 3degrees rear with engalls kit

 

^Thanks...so my "natural" camber is already around -1.5 to -2.0 in the front, according to the last alignment I got. Does that mean that adding the Skunk2 kit will not change my current camber, or will the Skunk2 kit add another -1.5 degrees to my camber?

 

Bada$$VTEC, that is SLAMMED!

What wheels are those?