It's now the "Official" Slammed Thread-3G TL's.
05-31-2012, 08:42 AM
#1124
2014 Jeep SRT
Need more pics, phatrick....that rear fitment looks spot on. 
05-31-2012, 07:27 PM
#1126
Since we are on the topic of slammedness.
When I got the car the previous owner gave me all the extra parts he had lying around the house. One of them was the front upper strut bar. he said that it was not installed due to the coilovers he installed? Is there a reason why he would do this? I also read about windshields cracking due to flex without the bars?
Any light on the topic would be appreciated. Thats in advance to the vertically challenged gurus.
When I got the car the previous owner gave me all the extra parts he had lying around the house. One of them was the front upper strut bar. he said that it was not installed due to the coilovers he installed? Is there a reason why he would do this? I also read about windshields cracking due to flex without the bars?
Any light on the topic would be appreciated. Thats in advance to the vertically challenged gurus.
05-31-2012, 08:01 PM
#1127
Since we are on the topic of slammedness.
When I got the car the previous owner gave me all the extra parts he had lying around the house. One of them was the front upper strut bar. he said that it was not installed due to the coilovers he installed? Is there a reason why he would do this? I also read about windshields cracking due to flex without the bars?
Any light on the topic would be appreciated. Thats in advance to the vertically challenged gurus.
When I got the car the previous owner gave me all the extra parts he had lying around the house. One of them was the front upper strut bar. he said that it was not installed due to the coilovers he installed? Is there a reason why he would do this? I also read about windshields cracking due to flex without the bars?
Any light on the topic would be appreciated. Thats in advance to the vertically challenged gurus.
05-31-2012, 08:08 PM
#1129
How was bad is your tire wear?!? Natural camber horrible? ^^ Looks great!
Very nice, the neon green too, not my style, but those S2K wheels look better than I would have expected...some spacers and you'd be money!
For the guy asking about the factory strut bar, you can normally put them back on with coilovers but then you can't access the dampening adjustment knob. I'd DEFINITELY put it back on if you can, if not, look for an RV6 one that will clear any coilover top. If you are happy with how the car rides though, you could not worry about accessing the knob, plus, you can drill a hole in the strut tower bar if you wanted to. I did.
Very nice, the neon green too, not my style, but those S2K wheels look better than I would have expected...some spacers and you'd be money!
For the guy asking about the factory strut bar, you can normally put them back on with coilovers but then you can't access the dampening adjustment knob. I'd DEFINITELY put it back on if you can, if not, look for an RV6 one that will clear any coilover top. If you are happy with how the car rides though, you could not worry about accessing the knob, plus, you can drill a hole in the strut tower bar if you wanted to. I did.
05-31-2012, 08:13 PM
#1130
^ the tire wear isn't that bad i had the toe adjusted to 0.. I'm just waiting on my skunk2s and ingalls so i can have more negative camber..its rubbing pretty crazy tho so i lifted it 1/2 inch..but will lower and adjust camber sometime next week. thanks man.
05-31-2012, 08:18 PM
#1131
Im the same guy with the camber issue and strut bar question.
The ride is ass right now. Previous owner did a motor swap and did not do an alignment afterwards. Then he out the car away after he lost his license. Its definitely all over the road right now. Need to get a serious alignment on it and I was told that with the rear wheels I better have adjustable camber and toe or else Ill be chewing tires like mad.
As for the bars, I really want to put the bar back on and still make adjustments. It does have dampening adjust so Ill take your advice and cut a hole. Still better than not having the bar at all.
Thanks for the advice.
The ride is ass right now. Previous owner did a motor swap and did not do an alignment afterwards. Then he out the car away after he lost his license. Its definitely all over the road right now. Need to get a serious alignment on it and I was told that with the rear wheels I better have adjustable camber and toe or else Ill be chewing tires like mad.
As for the bars, I really want to put the bar back on and still make adjustments. It does have dampening adjust so Ill take your advice and cut a hole. Still better than not having the bar at all.
Thanks for the advice.
05-31-2012, 08:25 PM
#1133
No problem, man...you'd be amazed at how much you can clear with just natural camber, rolled fenders and or slightly stretched tires.
Last weekend, I did this...to allow the ingalls upper adjustable balljoint (camber bolt) to NOT slap the top of the metal. Gave me a nice access hole to the bolt too.
Get that strut bar back on though, I'm sure you'll be much happier with how it'll drive!
Skunk 2's give you much more clearance as they're not any taller than oem balljoint, but they're PRICEY!!!
Kix, you already know...TOE is everything!
J.
Last weekend, I did this...to allow the ingalls upper adjustable balljoint (camber bolt) to NOT slap the top of the metal. Gave me a nice access hole to the bolt too.
Get that strut bar back on though, I'm sure you'll be much happier with how it'll drive!
Skunk 2's give you much more clearance as they're not any taller than oem balljoint, but they're PRICEY!!!
Kix, you already know...TOE is everything!
J.
05-31-2012, 09:34 PM
#1134
HE>i
iTrader: (1)
^Rockstar...just to let you know i DO still hit the upper shock tower even with the skunk2 arms. might try to do a slight modification to fix some of this. It's not bad like yours were, but it does happen on big dips.
my solution will be trimming that metal tab underside of the shock tower. its the round factory mold/weld that has a lip that sticks down. since i lowered my car another 1/2" it happens alot more with passengers(only passengers are the wifey and kid).
my solution will be trimming that metal tab underside of the shock tower. its the round factory mold/weld that has a lip that sticks down. since i lowered my car another 1/2" it happens alot more with passengers(only passengers are the wifey and kid).
05-31-2012, 10:38 PM
#1135
im maxed out on tein sa before but i raised it. my modifications are shaved rear fenders. I'm gonna maxed it out next week again but I'm join to install my skunk2s hellaflush fronts ingalls rear and spc camber arms and run negative camber maybe -2 front and -3 or 3.5 rears. thanks for the compliment man
06-01-2012, 06:51 AM
#1140
Clean, I agree with above, you got a nice azz!
Kix, yeah, man...I feel ya. Well, if you're on tein, you could have gotten away with just the hole I drilled, I'm maxed now and it rides just fine.
05 NBP, funny, I was looking at that tab thinking, "is that what's hitting"??! but no, only if i were able to go lower would that be able to hit. What happened to me, I was never a as low as I can go kinda dude...I used to be happy with just no wheel gap.
Kix, yeah, man...I feel ya. Well, if you're on tein, you could have gotten away with just the hole I drilled, I'm maxed now and it rides just fine.
05 NBP, funny, I was looking at that tab thinking, "is that what's hitting"??! but no, only if i were able to go lower would that be able to hit. What happened to me, I was never a as low as I can go kinda dude...I used to be happy with just no wheel gap.
06-01-2012, 01:51 PM
#1142
2014 Jeep SRT
Raised the front 1/4"...no more clunking/rubbing. Not adjusting again.....until my skunk2 kit comes in and I mount the 215's in the front. Then I go max camber and drop it again lol
The following users liked this post:
ebelp (06-01-2012)
06-01-2012, 03:43 PM
#1144
2014 Jeep SRT
J, are your rear Teins maxed out also?
06-01-2012, 07:45 PM
#1145
Thanks man! Yeah I'll def take some more, the rear is actually a mm away from the fender
The quarter panel doesn't like to be rolled as easily too for some reason, so i can't get it to tuck in anymore.
06-01-2012, 08:21 PM
#1146
I got you, man...
John...no sir, in that pic, it wasn't maxed yet.
Here it is ALL maxed. (from the last time I maxed it)...I also realized with teh tein, when maxed you have to make sure the spring goes back in it's perch when lowering the jack
John...no sir, in that pic, it wasn't maxed yet.
Here it is ALL maxed. (from the last time I maxed it)...I also realized with teh tein, when maxed you have to make sure the spring goes back in it's perch when lowering the jack
06-01-2012, 11:24 PM
#1150
2014 Jeep SRT
Jeremy, your car is sexier than ever...I love the new stance. That 1/4" or so made a huge difference!
But your car is always looking sick! Are you gonna be at Wekfest by any chance?
06-02-2012, 12:00 PM
#1152
Thank you John, very much, man...it's all the stance I got though...since that's as low as I can go. I reconfirmed yesterday...24", fender to ground...I think it's cause my camber is almost straight and I'm on 19's though.
OH, and posted from my build thread, figured it was pertinent to share here for the performance and lowered crowd/
On to my skid guards...I realized that now that I've maxed the coilovers...the flex section of the jpipe is what hits first...looked into atlp V2 pipe...but that doesn't allow me to use my high flow rear cat and has same design as RV6 pipe I already have...why reinvent the wheel for a LITTLE clearance. I got the idea from another forum member that I googled when researching the V1 ATLP pipe...so props to him.
Here was the header wrap that had been scraped from the flex section
I took a piece of scrap steel home from work...wanted some that wasn't too thick, but hearty enough to take scraping and keep integrity.
cut using my grinder and hammered slightly into shape to give it a sled like effect, bottom line, you don't want anything "catching" on whatever you scrape on.
cut tabs for the stainless steel hose clamps to sit in (had to use 2 together to be big enough for this portion) and bent everything slightly upward
and here they are installed...no rocket science and hope they get the job done.
OH, and posted from my build thread, figured it was pertinent to share here for the performance and lowered crowd/
On to my skid guards...I realized that now that I've maxed the coilovers...the flex section of the jpipe is what hits first...looked into atlp V2 pipe...but that doesn't allow me to use my high flow rear cat and has same design as RV6 pipe I already have...why reinvent the wheel for a LITTLE clearance. I got the idea from another forum member that I googled when researching the V1 ATLP pipe...so props to him.
Here was the header wrap that had been scraped from the flex section
I took a piece of scrap steel home from work...wanted some that wasn't too thick, but hearty enough to take scraping and keep integrity.
cut using my grinder and hammered slightly into shape to give it a sled like effect, bottom line, you don't want anything "catching" on whatever you scrape on.
cut tabs for the stainless steel hose clamps to sit in (had to use 2 together to be big enough for this portion) and bent everything slightly upward
and here they are installed...no rocket science and hope they get the job done.
The following users liked this post:
rockstar143 (06-02-2012)
06-02-2012, 02:04 PM
#1154
Racer
old pic. when i first got my teins, and quads.
Then when i got my CE's (yeah, thats a home depot lip in 2nd pic [pamltoface])
and then the Varrstoen 2.2.2, i think my tiens were maked here also.
and just for shits my buddy slammed s2....
Then when i got my CE's (yeah, thats a home depot lip in 2nd pic [pamltoface])
and then the Varrstoen 2.2.2, i think my tiens were maked here also.
and just for shits my buddy slammed s2....
06-02-2012, 03:57 PM
#1155
Thanks Kix...now you see why I have the hobbyist mechanical engineer! I like to tinker and figure shit out...I'm not sure it'll work, but in theory, it SHOULD protect my jpipe! LOL
my fingers are SORE!!!
odishaw, great pics man...my fav is actually the pic with your stockies, ironically.
I like to tinker and figure shit out...I'm not sure it'll work, but in theory, it SHOULD protect my jpipe! LOLmy fingers are SORE!!!
odishaw, great pics man...my fav is actually the pic with your stockies, ironically.
06-02-2012, 05:19 PM
#1156
The pic on the stockies def looks the best!
Most any aftermarket bar will clear them without cutting. I personally have this one; http://www.heeltoeauto.com/fastline-...ompatible.html
Im the same guy with the camber issue and strut bar question.
The ride is ass right now. Previous owner did a motor swap and did not do an alignment afterwards. Then he out the car away after he lost his license. Its definitely all over the road right now. Need to get a serious alignment on it and I was told that with the rear wheels I better have adjustable camber and toe or else Ill be chewing tires like mad.
As for the bars, I really want to put the bar back on and still make adjustments. It does have dampening adjust so Ill take your advice and cut a hole. Still better than not having the bar at all.
Thanks for the advice.
The ride is ass right now. Previous owner did a motor swap and did not do an alignment afterwards. Then he out the car away after he lost his license. Its definitely all over the road right now. Need to get a serious alignment on it and I was told that with the rear wheels I better have adjustable camber and toe or else Ill be chewing tires like mad.
As for the bars, I really want to put the bar back on and still make adjustments. It does have dampening adjust so Ill take your advice and cut a hole. Still better than not having the bar at all.
Thanks for the advice.
06-04-2012, 12:16 AM
#1160