It's now the "Official" Slammed Thread-3G TL's.
05-23-2012, 09:40 AM
#1081
2014 Jeep SRT
Well I'm thinking the hole you'd have to drill would have to be fairly large. I seriously doubt you could drill a dime-sized hole and be done with it. The top nut from the camber kit will probably just travel farther up and hit around the hole you just made. 
I see these holes and it makes me wonder how far the arms will actually travel when you hit a large bump:
I see these holes and it makes me wonder how far the arms will actually travel when you hit a large bump:
05-23-2012, 09:42 AM
#1082
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
^one way to find out right? 
05-23-2012, 09:55 AM
#1083
2014 Jeep SRT
Do it!
05-23-2012, 09:58 AM
#1084
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
^nahhhh i'll wait for you to do it first.
k? cool.
k? cool.
05-23-2012, 10:05 AM
#1085
2014 Jeep SRT
You're better at irreversible mods than I am (V1 CD, grill, etc.)...I'm sure you'll change your mind in a few days lol
05-23-2012, 10:07 AM
#1086
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
^damn. you're right. i'll get to it at some point soon i guess. 
05-23-2012, 10:47 AM
#1087
just do it already...you know you're going to.
drill a pilot for the center from below...then use a ginder to cut a square out...then put touch up paint to keep from rust...then line it with some rubber weatherstrip to make it look OEM.
drill a pilot for the center from below...then use a ginder to cut a square out...then put touch up paint to keep from rust...then line it with some rubber weatherstrip to make it look OEM.
05-23-2012, 10:47 AM
#1088
just do it already...you know you're going to.
drill a pilot for the center from below...then use a ginder to cut a square out...then put touch up paint to keep from rust...then line it with some rubber weatherstrip to make it look OEM.
drill a pilot for the center from below...then use a ginder to cut a square out...then put touch up paint to keep from rust...then line it with some rubber weatherstrip to make it look OEM.
05-23-2012, 10:48 AM
#1089
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
^yeah i'll do it clean for sure. OEMish...
think a dremel will cut through ok? circular cutting wheel and then grinder?
think a dremel will cut through ok? circular cutting wheel and then grinder?
05-23-2012, 10:55 AM
#1090
2014 Jeep SRT
I would use a step drill bit first and then go at it with a grinder to expand the hole further.....not sure if your typical Dremel will have the balls to cut through the shock towers.
The following users liked this post:
SharksBreath (05-23-2012)
05-23-2012, 01:44 PM
#1092
guys, its really not that serious of a mod, a TON of people do it. just make sure not to cut anything by accident (Friend of mine cut through his wire harness LOL) who knows how big youll need, ive seen tiny 1/2" diameter circles and 4x4 squares haha
05-23-2012, 01:48 PM
#1093
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
^i hear ya.
i just want to take out as little as possible to get the job done. and make it look clean...not like that picture above.
i just want to take out as little as possible to get the job done. and make it look clean...not like that picture above.
05-23-2012, 02:31 PM
#1094
2014 Jeep SRT
^Pretty sure the holes in the above pic will hold a beer can/bottle perfectly. Find another mod with that kind of versatility. 
05-23-2012, 07:02 PM
#1096
2014 Jeep SRT
05-23-2012, 09:13 PM
#1097
Interesting...I'm guessing you can look up into above your control arm and see where it's hitting and start drilling, go up to a 1/2" in hole where the mark is...drive around and see if it still hits and keep increasing the size from there.
I BET that's why the car get so brutal over bumps at full low on my teins...although full low on my teins is like the highest setting for yallz...
J.
I BET that's why the car get so brutal over bumps at full low on my teins...although full low on my teins is like the highest setting for yallz...
J.
05-24-2012, 02:07 AM
#1098
only drill a tiny hole from teh bottom so that you know where to cut out the circle, but the cut the circle from above so that you dont have any accidents.
to keep on this thread on topic since this entire page has no pics
to keep on this thread on topic since this entire page has no pics
05-24-2012, 07:52 AM
#1099
Instructor
Well I'm thinking the hole you'd have to drill would have to be fairly large. I seriously doubt you could drill a dime-sized hole and be done with it. The top nut from the camber kit will probably just travel farther up and hit around the hole you just made.
I see these holes and it makes me wonder how far the arms will actually travel when you hit a large bump
I see these holes and it makes me wonder how far the arms will actually travel when you hit a large bump
the integra is still rolling around and last time I saw it at a carlot, I popped the hood to see if any cracks or anything had devoloped, and nothing, looks exactly like it did when I first modded it. car has had the hole mod for over 10 years now. I autoxed it for 3-4 seasons that way along with dd duty before I sold it.
what I dont like about that mod is the bay filling full of crap and just all around getting dirty, but the extra travel on the integra was awesome. the car was lowered 5.5" for many years and rode incredibly well.
I personally havent been under my tl yet to see if this would help. hell my tl isnt even lowered yet (lol, havent even had a wheel off it), but when I do get my coilovers here in the next few weeks, Ill be checking to see if the "hole mod" is actually worth doing on this chassis.
The following users liked this post:
ebelp (05-24-2012)
The following users liked this post:
shenrie (05-24-2012)
05-24-2012, 10:49 AM
#1101
Those holes dont help that car much at all. all that really enters them is the top nuts on the camber kits. However on my db1 integra, I made them bigger so the end of the arm could extend into the bay and it helped a ton. with the civic above, the arm actually lays flat on the tower when it reaches that point. on the integra, the arm didnt lay on the tower fully extended till it was through the hole 2-3". I think the hole ended up being 3" diameter.
the integra is still rolling around and last time I saw it at a carlot, I popped the hood to see if any cracks or anything had devoloped, and nothing, looks exactly like it did when I first modded it. car has had the hole mod for over 10 years now. I autoxed it for 3-4 seasons that way along with dd duty before I sold it.
what I dont like about that mod is the bay filling full of crap and just all around getting dirty, but the extra travel on the integra was awesome. the car was lowered 5.5" for many years and rode incredibly well.
I personally havent been under my tl yet to see if this would help. hell my tl isnt even lowered yet (lol, havent even had a wheel off it), but when I do get my coilovers here in the next few weeks, Ill be checking to see if the "hole mod" is actually worth doing on this chassis.
the integra is still rolling around and last time I saw it at a carlot, I popped the hood to see if any cracks or anything had devoloped, and nothing, looks exactly like it did when I first modded it. car has had the hole mod for over 10 years now. I autoxed it for 3-4 seasons that way along with dd duty before I sold it.
what I dont like about that mod is the bay filling full of crap and just all around getting dirty, but the extra travel on the integra was awesome. the car was lowered 5.5" for many years and rode incredibly well.
I personally havent been under my tl yet to see if this would help. hell my tl isnt even lowered yet (lol, havent even had a wheel off it), but when I do get my coilovers here in the next few weeks, Ill be checking to see if the "hole mod" is actually worth doing on this chassis.
05-24-2012, 12:06 PM
#1102
Instructor
^^^ I highly doubt it will be an issue for me anyway. I dont see myself going to the level that you guys have, but you never know, Ive had teh sickness in the past, lol.
the skunk2 arm does look like a great alternative. never realized how much bulk the ingalls and spc balljoints added to the equasion. no wonder they have been found to bind up the end of their range.
and for people cutting the hole, you might avoid a square hole. according to one of the machinists I used to work with, when you have a square edge it leaves an "easy" way for a stresscrack to start. he said to stick to the smallest round hole you can get away with. dunno how much merit there is to that, but I thought Id mention it.
the skunk2 arm does look like a great alternative. never realized how much bulk the ingalls and spc balljoints added to the equasion. no wonder they have been found to bind up the end of their range.
and for people cutting the hole, you might avoid a square hole. according to one of the machinists I used to work with, when you have a square edge it leaves an "easy" way for a stresscrack to start. he said to stick to the smallest round hole you can get away with. dunno how much merit there is to that, but I thought Id mention it.
05-24-2012, 12:20 PM
#1103
^^^ I highly doubt it will be an issue for me anyway. I dont see myself going to the level that you guys have, but you never know, Ive had teh sickness in the past, lol.
the skunk2 arm does look like a great alternative. never realized how much bulk the ingalls and spc balljoints added to the equasion. no wonder they have been found to bind up the end of their range.
and for people cutting the hole, you might avoid a square hole. according to one of the machinists I used to work with, when you have a square edge it leaves an "easy" way for a stresscrack to start. he said to stick to the smallest round hole you can get away with. dunno how much merit there is to that, but I thought Id mention it.
the skunk2 arm does look like a great alternative. never realized how much bulk the ingalls and spc balljoints added to the equasion. no wonder they have been found to bind up the end of their range.
and for people cutting the hole, you might avoid a square hole. according to one of the machinists I used to work with, when you have a square edge it leaves an "easy" way for a stresscrack to start. he said to stick to the smallest round hole you can get away with. dunno how much merit there is to that, but I thought Id mention it.
05-24-2012, 02:57 PM
#1105
05-24-2012, 06:54 PM
#1107
making 10.5 +15 look easy!
enjoy my full shoot at this link!
http://googtl.acurazine.com/forums/s...7#post13797847
Thanks alot man, i love your whip just as much ahah! My interior is grey/black i just have bride front seats.
enjoy my full shoot at this link!
http://googtl.acurazine.com/forums/s...7#post13797847
Thanks alot man, i love your whip just as much ahah! My interior is grey/black i just have bride front seats.
Last edited by k.r.e.a.m.; 05-24-2012 at 07:03 PM.
05-27-2012, 08:29 AM
#1115
2014 Jeep SRT
Yeah that last pic is a different car than the others...
05-28-2012, 02:35 AM
#1116
Instructor
05-28-2012, 04:15 PM
#1117
Damn Russian...you are such a wannabe.
OH, and FYI since we discussed in this thread, ended up tackling the access hole for the balljoint bolt for slammage on Saturday morning.
J.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/diy-upper-adjustable-balljoint-bolt-clearance-opening-858543/
OH, and FYI since we discussed in this thread, ended up tackling the access hole for the balljoint bolt for slammage on Saturday morning.
J.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/diy-upper-adjustable-balljoint-bolt-clearance-opening-858543/
The following users liked this post:
The Russian (05-29-2012)
05-29-2012, 02:54 AM
#1118
Instructor
I wish I had a Type-S ha...but my car still turns heads 
