All of these fluids have a full add pack. Seal swell agents, detergents, everything any other fluid has. They just use a much better base stock and do not have friction modifiers which is a good thing. They won't hurt a thing, should increase trans life, and you can go longer on a fluid change.

 

Thanks IHC.

Does AZine pay you?

 

LOL. No, I just have too much free time on my hands.

 

IHC <- don't get paid...just a car knowledge charity. knows his sh*t !

 

Why yes he does...

 

Does "ATF" in Redline products, mean it is Type F?
For example, Light Weight Racing ATF and High Temp ATF.

Also, how can you tell if one is synthetic?



-Kevin

 

ATF= auto tranny fluid. I think the racing fluid is type F.

 

That's what I originally thought but Inaccurate's thread made me second guess that.
Guess I am just reading what I want to read.

On their website, it only parenthesis Racing ATF as (Type F).
But in Inaccurate's thread he states Light Weight Racing is Type F.

Is the keyword "Racing" = Type F?
Am I making mountains out of mole-hills here?

 

Type F is an old fluid that Ford used way back from the '40s up till the '60s and a few oddball cars till the '80s. It used to be a specific fluid with a specific add pack and no FM.

Nowdays "typeF" basically means a non FM fluid. It can be synthetic or dino. It can be a race only fluid or a street fluid with no FM. It's a pretty generic term now.

Since this fluid gives a harder shift and better holding power and durability, many manufacturers label it a "racing" fluid.

Redline racing happens to be a good synthetic Type F. They have a couple different versions. The lightweight "racing" fluid and a normal weight racing fluid. Either will work but don't run the light stuff straight. I would personally would not use the light weight stuff or at least no in a straight mixture. Our TLs share oil with the differential and we need that extra thickness.

When looking at which one to buy, the number one spec is that it's a TypeF non FM fluid. After that, pick which one suits your needs like dino or synthetic or desired viscosity.

Hope this makes sense, I'm about to fall asleep.

 

RedLine has two Type F fluids.

1) "RedLine Racing ATF"
2) "RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF"

And yes, the keyword "Racing" = Type F. Well, at least for the RedLine and Amsoil brands.

All RedLine and Amsoil "Racing" ATF's are 100% synthetic.

For clarity. I do not recommend for anyone to use plain'o dino "Type F" ATF found at your local auto parts store. The plain'o dino "Type F" ATF is not synthetic and probably lacks modern additives.



Agreed.

For boosted TL's, I would recommend the following mixture per every drain.

2 qts "RedLine Racing ATF"
1 qt "RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF"

or

3 qts "RedLine Racing ATF"



Compared to typical ATF, the "RedLine Racing ATF" is thick. But in my opinion, the "RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF" is too thin. I am aiming for an overall viscosity of 6.0. To accomplish an overall viscosity of 6.0, I mix the "RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF" with the "RedLine Racing ATF".


In case any readers are wondering, here is the link to the racing atf thread.

Racing ATF (click here)

 

Thanks team!
Before I purchase 6 quarts of Redline Racing ATF, does anyone know a Promo Code?

 

Man o man 92 degrees today and the SC was surging alll day!

was it just the heat soak?

 

My NA car surges when its hot out. 92 is hot and did you have the A/C on?

 

i did at one point when i was on the phone at stop and i closed the windows and turned it on for a sec and i thought it was gonna stall lol

A/C + S/C + 90 degree days your going no where fast

Im prob gonna do the cool air mod that innacurate did cuz i know its a oven in the bay.

Also i try not to run hard when its hot outside until i get the meth injection

 

The surging is the computer pulling timing due to detonation. I urge you to not run it hard until you get the meth injection. If you have a few extra bucks laying around throw some 100 or 109 octane unleaded in the tank to get an idea of what it should feel like without the surging.

This is what blows engines so either run it easy or add some extra octane. It's not *that* expensive when you figure it only takes 5 gallons of 109 per tank full to get rid of the detonation and protect your engine. It's cheap insurance and you'll pick up a good 40hp if it's already surging.

 

^ ok ill remember that. Dont have any gas stations around here that go higher than 93 octane. Are you talking about a booster (bottle) ?

 

Meth kit is $300 and your tank will be good for a month on the lowest spray nozzle. I would also like IHC says to stay away from beating on it when its hot/muggy out or put some 109 octane in the tank.

Hey, with a good tune for timing that $300 meth kit can add up to 20 hp which is a EXCELLENT price to HP ratio.

 

o yeah forgot to mention but when it surges my A/F is 10.0

 

Def not the booster bottles. They only boost if a few points like 91 to 91.4, not full numbers.

You can run a couple gallons of tolulene or xylene from Home Depot or a paint store. But I would try and find actual unleaded racing gas usually from an off road bike shop. It's usually sold in 5 gallon drums. Not something you would want to do all the time due to the cost but I think it will put a smile on your face.

As for that 10.0 AF, that by itself can cause a surge. It may be truly running super rich.

When the computer pulls a ton of timing it can cause the AF to read artificially rich because the AF is still burning as it comes out of the engine. I've seen it with open exhaust throwing a blue flame 3' long when it's really retarded.

Again, adding octane is the easiest way to troubleshoot it. Bring it up to 98+ octane and if the surging goes away and the car pulls harder you know what the problem was. If it continues to surge it's a true AF issue.

 

Had some highway fun today on the way to work today. I was at a light before the interstate on ramp and there was a SRT-4 and a SRT-8 (300) behind me. I took off and merged quickly to get on the lane to the on ramp and the SRT-4 started to push on my bumper and i

Not sure but if i was near the SRT-4 im sure he has this puzzled look on why this TL is leaving him but I guess that made the guy in the SRT-8 wanna play.

The SRT-4 didnt go on the interstate, so it was the SRT-8 and Me. I made it to the on ramp (S-style) first and there was no escape from the SRT-8 that bitch is fast.

We were side by side about 65 and we went and he jumped 1/2 car immediatly but i started to pull slightly at the end of 3rd and when i shifted into 4th it slipped slightlly and he WAS GONE lol

Pulled up to him later and gave him the and i got one back. he was on the phone prob telling his buddy about his kill story but im sure the SC was a little surprise for him. GOD I LOVE THIS THING!!!!

I have seen the 300 around my area before cuz his license plate says SRT-8 FTW lol

 

Wait till you see the cocky STI guys as I once saw. Man did I piss him off when I pulled away all three times. He gave me the ricer fly by hahaha. Not only was I laughing about how pissed off he was, but it was even funnier for him to pull up shoot his BOV and fly away into traffic...cool guy.

 

I'll bet you hanging with him while he was pushing it had to scare him pretty good. I sure he thought me was going to smoke you and the whine is hard to miss.

 

i know we talked about this 100 times before but im getting ready to change the OEM tranny fluid cuz i know it needs it. Redline as stated above or GM syncromesh?

 

^^GM Synchromesh.....nothing else

 

OEM is just fine.

 

Why waste your money just buy the gm fluid and call it a day. The stuff works so good there is no reason to stick with oem. $13 a quart is a lot but good things don't come cheap and you only need 3 quarts.

 

i would need 9 for the 3x3 method correct?

 

Not in the manual...... I can't tell if you're joking or not.

 

im sure the means he is joking.....i hope

 

I wasnt but i knew i might have been asking a question i should have known. I havent done this before. So its just a drain and fill 3qts.

 

Yep. Just a single drain and fill to get 99% of the fluid. In the auto you have half of the fluid trapped in the torque convertor so a drain and fill only gets half out at a time. In the manual, 99% of the fluid comes out on the first drain so no need to do it more than once.

 

I think it's 2.4 quarts, look at the DIY it will say. I do remember having to measure the fluid out to make sure it was right.

 

To be a little off or a little more isn't bad. Its defiantly not three. I put in two and a little more than a half is left in the third bottle.

 

 

Just fill it till the oil overflows from the fill hole.

 

I just checked and I put in 2 bottles and the third one is left at the "600" fill point and that is perfect. The manual actually calls for 2.3 so if you leave the bottle at the 600 fill line it is 33ML more then asked which is perfect.

 

Good shit

 

you guys are making to big a deal. just put in 3 quarts and you'll be fine..

 

Hey quick question... I was driving thru some pretty heavy rain the other day and since I've had the CAI from the beginning I always been a bit cautious about sucking up water into the TB. Buuut now since i have the SC would you say that I have eliminated or reduced the chances of sucking up water? Or increased for that matter?

 

I would say increased to chance due to the extra suction of boost but like without the blower, it's all about the puddle size and height of the intake from the ground.