UTAH TSX

I use the thickest oil I have laying around so it stays on the rings, I put it in a can or bowl and dip the piston in it then stick it right in, the oil ring will hold a lot of oil,
THOSE RODS ARE SWEET I'M JEALOUS

I hate cars

Fully agreed!

ATF is bad. It was used years ago because people thought it had more detergents than motor oil but that's not the case. It's about 20wt for what it's worth.
I do the same. Some people disagree because it can foul the plugs slightly on startup but I would rather be sure everything is lubed well. Plus, a little boost is a good defouling method lol.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Would you all do anything different if the engine will sit for a while before being started?

It's winter and COLD here plus I am only able to work on it on the weekends. So it could be months before it's back in the car.

Thanks for all the input!

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I just found a stock rod, what a difference!

UTAH TSX

With those rods Im thinking 25 LBS some heavy meth injection OOOOHHHH yeah

flexer

I don't like the idea of the atf.

Here is what I do:

I take a clean lint free rag and soak in ATF. I then go up and down every cylinder after I get back from the machine shop with the atf. I keep doing this until I don't get one spec of dirt on the rag. It usually takes 2-3 passes till I make this happen. I know now that I have gotten all the crap off the cylinder walls, because people think when they get it back from the machine shop its clean and ready to go but usually not.

I then bath the piston and rings in the motor oil I am going to use for start up. I take my hand and apply liberally to the cylinder walls, then once all the piston and rings are assembled I bath them in the oil I am going to use at start up.

Hope that helps

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Thanks everyone.

The block I have is from the factory and while doing the pressure wash I used scotch brite pads on the cylinder walls with dawn/water then did it again with wd40. I was surprised how much black came off (mixed with the red of my blood from butchering my hands).

After bringing it back inside, wiped it again with 100% IPA lint free wipes and it still came up with lots of black crap. After about 3 wipes per cylinder they were clean.

I've moved on to my heads. Going to clean them all up, knock of the casting marks and lap the valves. Seats and valves look good except for some carbon.

I hate cars

The oil will stay in the bearings plus you can prime the system before startup so any pressure lubed areas are ok for sitting. I would be most concerned with the rings and cam lobes even though it's a roller valve train. Dipping the Pistons in oil as i think you're going to do that is good for this. You may use a 60wt if it's going to sit or make sure to squirt oil in each cylinder before firing. The cylinders are lubed by oil flung off the rod bearings so as long as the system is primed you should be good.

I don't suggest assembly lube on the cam lobes because you can end up with the rocker arm roller sliding on the lobe instead of rolling. Just dump whatever oil you're going to use to fill up the little "pools" of oil in the heads and the lobes will have instant lube when they turn.

I've opened up engines that have sat for a couple years and theres never been a case where the cylinders or cam were lacking oil. The only reason I would take special precaution is because the first strokes are so important for proper break-in.

I hate cars

I'm really glad you cleaned it thoroughly. That black crap is incredibly important to remove completely for a good break-in and long life.

Ironically perfectly smooth cylinders seal better but the honing is necessary with the imperfect machining we have today. I have a feeling the crosshatching is going to get finer and shallower as time goes on.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Honda has started using plateau honing on their cylinder along with frictionless rings. Supposedly there is no seating that takes place between the rings and cylinders. This was all done for reduced parasitic energy loss and increased performance. It's just a matter of time before today's standard production engines use performance coatings as seen in race bred engines such as NASCAR and Formula 1.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I would assume this applies to recent Earth Dream engines and not a 2006 J32A3 block?

According to the factory, the block I got was ready to use aside from the cleaning.

What did you do for prep on the shortblock you recently purchased?

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

bold

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Robert.

I checked everything before assembly and as you said, everything was perfect.

Is the grease that is applied not an issue? When I saw that your shortblock had the same application as my bare block for I assume rust prevention.

I'm glad I went ahead with a cleaning (by hand). I found lots of stuff not visible to the naked eye.

Heading home tonight, going to re-install the valves into the heads and do some measurements to determine my actual compression ratio after machining and just to know for sure what it is.

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

The grease is only there to protect the iron cylinders from rust after machining. It's ideal to rid the engine of all you can. With a bare block, this is easy. But a shortblock gives substantially more difficulty in doing so. Though its a mineral based grease, it will cause the rings to stick and become gummed up which isn't optimal for ring seating.

Easiest way to clean out a shortblock is by rinsing the cylinders out using acetone or brake cleaner with the deck facing down and whichever cylinder you're targeting at TDC. Then coat them immediately after using regular 30W to keep the machined surfaces protected.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the info..

Checked my heads and I am right at the factory service limit of 120.8mm.

Off to install some valves and measure my combustion chamber....

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

120mm?!?! How much material did u take off?

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

The new standard is 121mm. That puts you under service limit which is 120.95mm. Perhaps someone made a mistake in machining or measuring?

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Like I said in my other thread, these came from someone here so I have no idea what happened before I got them. My shop removed 7 thousandths.

I guess I am over the limit but I don't think I am in danger of valve contact based on the fact that ILC milled 40 thousandths off his heads to increase the CR. I'm pretty sure the J32A3 and J32A8 head spec is the same, right?

But now, is there anything I should be concerned with other than valve clearance?

EDIT:

I checked the manual again and it says that the resurface limit is .2mm based on the new spec of 121mm......that's what I based my statement on. It says the new range is 120.95-121.05. At least that's how I read it.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

I don't see any concern for valve contact, no. My biggest worry with going over service limit on head resurfacing is strictly with the timing belt in regards to cam pulley synchronization. The more material removed from the head, the closer the cams are to the deck. This means that the distance between the two become slightly closer which will cause the pulleys to no longer be synced during engine operation which COULD require using adjustable camshaft pulleys to correct any unwanted geometry issues. Not saying that this will warrant the adjustable cam pulleys or even throw them out of sync, but you should definitely buy a degree wheel and check camshaft timing after installing the heads just to be safe. You can never be too safe in a forced induction build.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Thanks!!!

I just came up from looking at things then it dawned on me that these are interference based engines anyway.

So I was just going to see what the implications were and thankfully, you replied.

I'll have to start looking into cam timing a little more closely.

If it does involve adjustable pulleys, do you have any idea who would do something like that?

Thanks again!

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

J Series - My Site

You could use these but will have to modify them.

Any more update pics?

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

That's good to know. What mods would be needed?

Nothing new yet. I'm planning on installing the pistons tomorrow and just ordered a degree wheel and will check TDC next weekend. I'm limited to just doing this on Sat/Sun with the new job taking me out of town during the week. I'm also going to reassemble the heads and get them ready, maybe start that tomorrow as well.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

wow they jacked up those gates racing belt price. I bought mine for 40 bucks 2 years ago..

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

There are no issues with your head milling specs, especially with stock cams. As long as you confirm that your piston meets the stock valve relief position and depth you'll be fine...though you'll probably (and should) clay them anyhow. Go ahead and use the heads though in my general opinion. I DO speak from experience in this regard.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Andy,

Do you know where I can get the stock piston specs for the valve relief.

Also, how do I check the clearance without having to put the whole timing belt system together?

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

I can find out from my machinist who modified my pistons. All I know is that he went .040" deeper to match the j35a8 OEM piston, as my custom wiseco's weren't deep enough.

Yes, you'll need to do assembly (no gasket required) to clay.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Andy

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

You would need to remove one and add two triggers points on the cam gear as the j32a3/j35a8 cam sensor uses only three...the j32a2 uses four. There are a total of six spokes on the cam sprockets and if the key way is lined straight up towards the 12 o'clock position, you would need to remove the 12 o'clock point then add a 4 and 8 o'clock points to make it compatible with your ECM.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Robert.

I didn't do anything else this past weekend except order some stuff to check things more thoroughly and lots of reading so I'll get right on it when I get home on Friday.

Hoping to close on the house soon so I can bring the majority of the engine parts/tools to the new place and be able to work on it during the week.

RD_04TL

KN, did you end up going with OEM bearings? I recently notice that King add J series to there catalog, any advice on them vs OEM

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I used OEM and went one color (approx 1-2 ten thou) more clearance than stock.

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

As promised, here is the result for OEM depth that was verified with a CNC to prove it to myself before re-cutting my own wiseco pistons.

j35a8 OEM valve relief pocket depth: .1670" (intake AND exhaust)

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Thanks!

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Made some progress today. Pistons installed.

Going to try and get the front of the engine together tomorrow and clay the valve clearances.







CR also measured

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I'm looking at the price of this belt and it's right $99 is in the price range for a T329RB which is what Gates says we need.

There were some other part numbers that were cheaper with the same specs. Not sure what the difference is.

RD_04TL

Looking good man, almost there, are you planning on using a block guard?

UTAH TSX

I have never seen a factory j series belt fail ever even at 200k plus miles and I work at one of the biggest Honda dealers in the country, the only time I have seen them fail is from running out of oil and the cams seize and strip the belt on the crank pulley. or someone changing the belt with aftermarket tensioner and it fails, there is no need to use that pricey belt IMO just get the factory belt not one from a parts store Honda dealer only I have seen to many OE belts bought online, autozone, ETC. that are the junk $20 belts

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I'm not. Many mixed reviews so I decided to go without. I doubt I will go to extremes, just want a really reliable ride.

The only thing that would push me to spend this money is the fact that I am running heavier valve springs......Still deciding.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

I concur with this however I have only seen this in the later generations of the j-series engines...mostly j32a3 and beyond. The j32a2 (or any multiport exhaust headed engine) has shown some failures with the timing belts and without any additional failures involved such as tensioners or idler pulleys seizing.

Don't forget the fact that higher horsepower (specifically forced induction) applications put much more stress on timing belts due to increased chamber pressures. This mechanically translates into a greater force being required to open the intake and exhaust valves. Not that this would REQUIRE the use of a heavy duty timing belt but would definitely reclassify the replacement interval of the belt into a "severe service" category which would be 60,000 miles (normal service is 105,000).