KN_TL's Rebuild/Turbo Install thread
#401
I'm sad too.
But my commute is longer, is on an interstate in NY and I have to curb my desire to go fast.
If I keep going with this, it will only get worse.
Learned a lot and had a lot of fun so no regrets.
But my commute is longer, is on an interstate in NY and I have to curb my desire to go fast.
If I keep going with this, it will only get worse.
Learned a lot and had a lot of fun so no regrets.
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EvilVirus (09-06-2016)
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yungone501 (08-26-2016)
#406
I've come to learn that the building a big badass engine is no longer needed when the engine is tuned properly and the correct fuel is used to match the power demanded. I know it's often heard and repeated around Internet forums but MAN, no other piece of knowledge could be more useful when it comes down to throwing large amounts of boost to a rinky-dink Honda V6. I've fallen in love with cars all over again since learning how to tune and using e85/WMI.
I see see too many people (myself included) trying to build up these glorious setups and sinking tons of hard earned cash and valuable time into it only to be disappointed by something (or some THINGS) that went wrong. I'm here to tell you, put it all away. I've been beating the holy shit out of my (practically) bone stock motor for quite some time now making some great power and though I have a complete "fully built" engine on standby, I have a newfound faith in these engines again since breaking the two barriers of tuning and fuel. And for those who know me personally (or even through the forum) know that the tune I have for my car is in no means a "conservative" one. It's ran to the ragged edge as much as a tune could be and I'm talking full on flames, bangs, pops and raw carnage coming from this little grocery getter. I've never once been on a dyno for tuning, it's all been tuned on the street. Both fuel and ignition mapping...all the way down to the last 1/4 of a degree of timing I could squeeze from it to make MOAR POWA!
Domt me get me wrong, the forged piston, rods, sleeves, and so on all have their place in the performance engine realm. But too often than not, the two primary staples I've named above are looked at once it's too late or maybe not even at all because the person gave up in his quest for the power that never was. Just saying...
I see see too many people (myself included) trying to build up these glorious setups and sinking tons of hard earned cash and valuable time into it only to be disappointed by something (or some THINGS) that went wrong. I'm here to tell you, put it all away. I've been beating the holy shit out of my (practically) bone stock motor for quite some time now making some great power and though I have a complete "fully built" engine on standby, I have a newfound faith in these engines again since breaking the two barriers of tuning and fuel. And for those who know me personally (or even through the forum) know that the tune I have for my car is in no means a "conservative" one. It's ran to the ragged edge as much as a tune could be and I'm talking full on flames, bangs, pops and raw carnage coming from this little grocery getter. I've never once been on a dyno for tuning, it's all been tuned on the street. Both fuel and ignition mapping...all the way down to the last 1/4 of a degree of timing I could squeeze from it to make MOAR POWA!
Domt me get me wrong, the forged piston, rods, sleeves, and so on all have their place in the performance engine realm. But too often than not, the two primary staples I've named above are looked at once it's too late or maybe not even at all because the person gave up in his quest for the power that never was. Just saying...
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teh CL (08-29-2016)
#408
You actually have a much better advantage than you may think using the j30. It's got lower compression, square engine design (86x86), short stroke, small bore (comparatively speaking), which all combine to give the engine better boost characteristics. The less time (by distance) it takes for the flame to burn and begin piston descent, the less chance there is for the end gases to self-ignite and cause detonation. This was one of the reasons I was originally wanting to build the short stroke motor a few years back but cost of custom parts deterred me.
Btw, I never received that email.
#413
#414
#416
I finally have a whine free transmission but also have a TON of transmission parts laying around. Not sure what I am going to do. I have sellers remorse over getting rid of the M-Factory gears....maybe I will come into a large sum of money to be able to get 10 more made.....dreams.
So with the help of Dom, I am driving it again. I was going to leave it stock or possibly sell it but the idea of at least breaking it in and boosting it before doing anything like that seems like a better idea.
Not sure if it will happen before I have to store it for the winter, but it was good to be able to drive it around (trying to set readiness codes) for 20min without thinking something was going to break.
So with the help of Dom, I am driving it again. I was going to leave it stock or possibly sell it but the idea of at least breaking it in and boosting it before doing anything like that seems like a better idea.
Not sure if it will happen before I have to store it for the winter, but it was good to be able to drive it around (trying to set readiness codes) for 20min without thinking something was going to break.
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KN_TL (11-10-2016)
#420
Boost isn't installed. Running stock precats and 3rd cat with ID1000 injectors and return fuel system with built engine.
Working with Dom to get it inspected and then depending on the weather, will either store it for the winter or get the turbo installed again.
Working with Dom to get it inspected and then depending on the weather, will either store it for the winter or get the turbo installed again.
#421
Time to move down south. I'm unfamiliar with the terms "inspected" and "weather".
Glad you're staying with it. I guarantee the first time you mash the throttle with full boost it'll all be worth it!
Glad you're staying with it. I guarantee the first time you mash the throttle with full boost it'll all be worth it!
#422
I've got 150 miles so far and the engine is running great. 6th iteration with Dom and I did a couple 3rd gear WOT to fuel cutoff with no hiccups.
Valves are a bit noisy but I have them a little on the loose side intentionally. Get a little piston slap when cold but goes away within a couple minutes.
Still can't get catalyst and egr readiness to set but I think it's because LTFT is zero. Still shooting to get inspected before the salt hits the road.
It's been nice to drive it after such a long time.
Valves are a bit noisy but I have them a little on the loose side intentionally. Get a little piston slap when cold but goes away within a couple minutes.
Still can't get catalyst and egr readiness to set but I think it's because LTFT is zero. Still shooting to get inspected before the salt hits the road.
It's been nice to drive it after such a long time.
#423
Winter will not go away. It's not brutal freezing but still to cold for me.......
Still struggling to get readiness codes set with the swapped ECU and Flashpro so I am going to put the stock ECU and injectors back in just to get it inspected. Need to build adapters to go from ID1000's to stock. Also lost a couple injectors in my move so I had to get another set. All parts are due by the weekend.
Still struggling to get readiness codes set with the swapped ECU and Flashpro so I am going to put the stock ECU and injectors back in just to get it inspected. Need to build adapters to go from ID1000's to stock. Also lost a couple injectors in my move so I had to get another set. All parts are due by the weekend.
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KN_TL (03-31-2017)
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KN_TL (03-31-2017)
#426
#428
Inspection went flawlessly.
I've been driving the TL to work for the past 3 days, about 60 miles roundtrip 95% interstate on the stock ECU and injectors.
Running great with about 300 miles on the new engine. Going to do another oil change tonight, check the filter and should have it broken in really soon.
Then start putting the goodies back on.
I've been driving the TL to work for the past 3 days, about 60 miles roundtrip 95% interstate on the stock ECU and injectors.
Running great with about 300 miles on the new engine. Going to do another oil change tonight, check the filter and should have it broken in really soon.
Then start putting the goodies back on.
#431
Have about 700 miles on the new motor and everything looks good. Break in oil drained and conventional oil put in it's place. Gonna put a couple hundred more, switch to synthetic and put the FI back on.
Going to rewrap everything this weekend.
Going to rewrap everything this weekend.
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thisaznboi88 (05-06-2017)
#432
Check out the DEI lava wrap, it both looks and works great. I bought a bunch of SS exhaust wrap ties from summit Racing, used about 18 in all. I think I went thru 2 50 foot rolls of wrap.
#433
Bought 50' and it looks like it's just about right. I still have the small rear bank pipe and if there is any left over, the straight part of the downpipe.
Another question for you. What oil cooler setup did you use? Was it a kit with AN fittings?
Thanks!
#434
I took your lead and used the same stuff. It was much easier and less itchy for sure. I forgot to order the ties but had enough to do what I needed.
Bought 50' and it looks like it's just about right. I still have the small rear bank pipe and if there is any left over, the straight part of the downpipe.
Another question for you. What oil cooler setup did you use? Was it a kit with AN fittings?
Thanks!
Bought 50' and it looks like it's just about right. I still have the small rear bank pipe and if there is any left over, the straight part of the downpipe.
Another question for you. What oil cooler setup did you use? Was it a kit with AN fittings?
Thanks!
I bought a Earls plate style oil cooler (13x8x1 I think), I will measure it. In addition I also bought a oil sandwich adapter with 8-AN fittings and nylon branded 8-AN hose
. It's cheaper than buying an all included kit and since most kits have pre cut hoses with ends attached you can cut your hose to the length that works best for your setup rather than having to route hoses around to take up length. The plate style oil cooler is a more durable setup than the finned style oil cooler and with my location in the bumper I wanted a more durable setup. The cooler I have fits pretty perfectly in the lower bumper with good air exposure.
The only issue is the water meth pump in that area, but I was able to make it fit. if you mount the oil cooler upside down (fittings facing the ground) you can fit the oil cooler up against the bumper bar and have it perfectly in the air stream of the lower bumper.
Last edited by Hi speed; 05-09-2017 at 12:41 AM.
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KN_TL (05-09-2017)
#436
#439
This thread is pretty useless since I killed my photobucket account (forgot all about the pictures I had here).
But the motor is running great after 5000 miles of boost. Only running 12lb's at the moment, using it for my 30 mile one way highway commute and getting close to 23mpg if I can stay out of boost.
I would eventually like to get it dyno'd but there isn't one close by and it's getting close to putting it away for the winter.....
The drivability is the best it has ever been. If anyone needs a tune, contact Dom. He is lightning quick and will help you all along the way.
But the motor is running great after 5000 miles of boost. Only running 12lb's at the moment, using it for my 30 mile one way highway commute and getting close to 23mpg if I can stay out of boost.
I would eventually like to get it dyno'd but there isn't one close by and it's getting close to putting it away for the winter.....
The drivability is the best it has ever been. If anyone needs a tune, contact Dom. He is lightning quick and will help you all along the way.