Hi-Speed's race engine swap
07-17-2016, 05:16 PM
#281
Safety Car
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Jose, CA/ Charleston, WV
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I have been playing with the car this week trying get the boost under control and discovered the boost solenoid is not working properly causing the car to behave strangely at low throttle positions. I turned the boost controller all the way off to see much much boost I could make on the spring alone, which was 3.5 psi. I decided to change out the solenoid and turning down the duty cycle on the boost controller so I could finally get the boost under control. At 50% DC I was still hitting the 16 psi boost cut, so I adjusted it to 45% DC and am able to hold 14 psi. The 90% DC setting I was using had the turbo spool extreamly fast, so the new setting is not as aggressive in terms how fast it makes boost. The high duty cycle settings combined with the failing solenoid made part throttle more rough than I was comfortable with. The new setting will be easier on the engine and the car at the expense of some spool speed, but the build is becoming more and more refined.
07-18-2016, 07:57 PM
#284
Are you setting the spring setting on your True Boost controller ? this should be set about one pound lower than you want the max boost to be, if it spikes on spool up over what you want the max boost to be then bring the spring setting down until it no longer spikes, this makes it spool up faster especially if you have a weak spring, it holds the gate closed with the boost pressure until it gets to the spring setting, it makes a HUGE differece
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Hi speed (07-18-2016)
07-18-2016, 10:47 PM
#285
Are you setting the spring setting on your True Boost controller ? this should be set about one pound lower than you want the max boost to be, if it spikes on spool up over what you want the max boost to be then bring the spring setting down until it no longer spikes, this makes it spool up faster especially if you have a weak spring, it holds the gate closed with the boost pressure until it gets to the spring setting, it makes a HUGE differece
Thanks I will change the settings and see if it brings back some of the spool. I can't amagine the WG spring is anything less than 7 Psi, not sure if turning the boost controller off gives an accurate idea of WG Spring pressure.
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Hi speed (07-19-2016)
07-19-2016, 08:33 AM
#287
It won't tell you what spring because it is dependent on back pressure in the turbine side, a 7 PSI spring in a high back pressure system will start to open way before 7 PSI this is were the crack setting (spring) on the boost controller comes into play.
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Hi speed (07-19-2016)
07-20-2016, 10:28 AM
#288
I changed the spring setting yesterday and the difference in spool is big, the car is back to very quick spool and 14-15 psi.. The spring pressure was set at 4 psi and I adjusted it up to 10 psi. The original idea was to set it at 14 psi since my target boost is 15 psi but, I didn't want to change things too fast. I still need to make some adjustments but, I'm getting closer to where I want the car to be. I can't believe how well that spring setting works, car feels great and so responsive.
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screaminz28 (07-20-2016)
07-20-2016, 10:40 PM
#289
Just keep setting it higher until it spikes over max boost wanted then bring it back down one PSI, you don't want Dom to waste his time getting the fuel right on spool up then change it again, it takes a lot of fuel on spool up and where it has the most torque and the timing must drop down with the building pressure and the spring setting changes the torque curve a tone
Last edited by UTAH TSX; 07-20-2016 at 10:43 PM.
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yungone501 (09-04-2016)
07-21-2016, 01:59 PM
#290
I'm doing some experimenting with Carbon fiber to cover my HVAC intake on my car since I did the ultimate cooling mod and the intake would be exposed to air from the engine. I have been looking for a Tupperware cover that was the right size to just fit over the opening and seal it without being too permanent but, haven't been able to find one. I have been using a metal air duct tape to cover the opening for the last few years and want a more durable solution. Last week I decided to try some disposable Tupperware containers on the HVAC intake to see if they will cover and I found one that did. I wanted to try out laying some carbon fiber and thought this would be the perfect piece to start other since its mostly hidden. I was only going to do one layer of CF so I laid fiber glass over the container first to give it more rigidity That went well so I cut and laid out the CF and cut it the bast I could to get complete coverage.
The CF kit I bought was $25 shipped from EBay and included a 4 oz bottle of epoxy resin and a 2 oz bottle of the hardener and a 6x36 piece of CF cloth, the CF was closer to 8x42 in the end and I think there was more epoxy and hardener than claimed, so good deal. I used fiber glass resin to stick the CF to the container, thinking there wouldn't be enough epoxy for a full stick and do two coats to get the gloss. I don't think this caused an issue but, the epoxy needed to adhere the CF cloth to the container was so little I would have been fine to use the resin that came with the kit.
Once the fiber glass resin was dry I measued out 2 oz of epoxy and 1 oz of hardener and coated the CF cloth as much as I could, letting it dry for 24 hrs. The final product is kind of rough, in terms of the coverage on one corner and I plan to do another coat of epoxy to gloss up the whole thing
. Here are some pics of the process.
The CF kit I bought was $25 shipped from EBay and included a 4 oz bottle of epoxy resin and a 2 oz bottle of the hardener and a 6x36 piece of CF cloth, the CF was closer to 8x42 in the end and I think there was more epoxy and hardener than claimed, so good deal. I used fiber glass resin to stick the CF to the container, thinking there wouldn't be enough epoxy for a full stick and do two coats to get the gloss. I don't think this caused an issue but, the epoxy needed to adhere the CF cloth to the container was so little I would have been fine to use the resin that came with the kit.
Once the fiber glass resin was dry I measued out 2 oz of epoxy and 1 oz of hardener and coated the CF cloth as much as I could, letting it dry for 24 hrs. The final product is kind of rough, in terms of the coverage on one corner and I plan to do another coat of epoxy to gloss up the whole thing
. Here are some pics of the process.
Last edited by Hi speed; 07-21-2016 at 02:09 PM.
07-28-2016, 10:51 PM
#291
I have been working on my camera mount to get some videos going and here is the first version. I did a test video today but, too much traffic to flex the muscles. My gauges block most of the tachometer from the camera's view but, speedometer is pretty visible and so are both the boost and wideband gauges. Car spools great, I have been playing with the spring pressure setting and duty cycle all week and think I have it where I want it.
Too high of a duty cycle seems to mess with drivability when the car is cold, once it warms up everything gets better. I retained the Knock Box knock indicator led from the MS3 and was seeing some knock again with high speed tire spin and 90 degree weather. I bought a cheap ($4) suction cup camera mount from eBay and used some of the parts for my custom camera mount. I decided to use a 1 inch dowel with two bendable clips at each end that attach to one post of each headrest. Here is a pic, I may wrap it in carbon fiber to finish it off.
Too high of a duty cycle seems to mess with drivability when the car is cold, once it warms up everything gets better. I retained the Knock Box knock indicator led from the MS3 and was seeing some knock again with high speed tire spin and 90 degree weather. I bought a cheap ($4) suction cup camera mount from eBay and used some of the parts for my custom camera mount. I decided to use a 1 inch dowel with two bendable clips at each end that attach to one post of each headrest. Here is a pic, I may wrap it in carbon fiber to finish it off.
Last edited by Hi speed; 07-28-2016 at 10:54 PM.
09-03-2016, 01:14 AM
#292
Took the car out today for a little ride! the boost controller settings are still too aggressive and I'm over boosting. The car feels great, I just need to back down the duty cycle a little. I'm still getting tire spin in 4th and the car is going into boost so fast. I am losing some oil thru the exhaust side of the turbo and am looking at rebuilding and upgrading to a water cooled center section. A ball bearing turbo is tempting, $1200 cost not so much, just wish I could upgrade the 6262 to BB. I made some videos that sucked due to not being able to see the gauges and erased them by mistake. I need to dial in my camera mount, how are people getting such clear videos of the gauges? Also need to roll down the windows to let more sound in, what I hear and what is being picked up by the video is pretty different. The CF piece didn't come out the way I wanted, but it was fun and educational to do. I might wrap some pieces if I get the time and find some better CF cloth.
Last edited by Hi speed; 09-03-2016 at 01:17 AM.
09-04-2016, 12:46 PM
#293
Good advice from Utah above on the tune up during spool.
I'm at 16lbs running e85 and meth injection on a 5AT and have some very slight wheel spin at the top of 3rd. I actually used timing to help control power thus eliminate spin in 4th. I don't run a EBC so I have to get creative with spool and power transitioning. But as Utah said, you can use both fuel/timing to control spool and do it with great success.
I'm at 16lbs running e85 and meth injection on a 5AT and have some very slight wheel spin at the top of 3rd. I actually used timing to help control power thus eliminate spin in 4th. I don't run a EBC so I have to get creative with spool and power transitioning. But as Utah said, you can use both fuel/timing to control spool and do it with great success.
09-04-2016, 08:17 PM
#295
My wastegate spring is the boost controller.
I purchased a Turbosmart MBC on eBay not too long ago but decided it was too tiny (has 1/4" ID lines) to control both of my Tial's off of. As a matter of fact, I can't find a worthy one to use that I would trust to use with my dual wastegate setup and just haven't put in the time to research a proper EBC to purchase/use. I do like the features you get with them. Especially the more advanced ones that utilize an rpm, map and tps input to maximize its purpose.
09-04-2016, 08:36 PM
#296
Going to take the car out this week to test out some more EBC settings. I think the wind resistance of higher speeds is applying load the engine has not seen before and allowing it to build more boost. It sucks trying to modulate the throttle to keep it under boost cut level. The spring crack setting has made a huge difference, I'm at the 8 psi setting and blowing past 16 psi very quickly once I have enough load or speed/ wind resistance. My plan is to lower the duty cycle from 40-35 and leave the spring crack pressure at 8 psi. If that doesn't fix it I will start to lower the spring crack level. The responsiveness of the turbo is where I want it, it just won't stay in the Psi range I want. I wish we had boost by gear in the Flash Pro. There is a roll race event being held at an airport in Coalinga, Cali, that would be a nice place to show what the TL can do.
Load is a tricky thing, once the car is in boost the load drops and you need to get more into the throttle to keep the same boost level. It kind of like running and someone running faster push you forward from behind, all of a sudden your running faster and the load in your body is less since the push accelerated you. If you want to get back to the same level of load on your body you have to push yourself even harder since your already moving faster. Prior to using an EBC I thought you entered the desired max psi and the controller did the rest. I had a manual boost controller on the car for the first build, that was pick a psi level and leave it.
Load is a tricky thing, once the car is in boost the load drops and you need to get more into the throttle to keep the same boost level. It kind of like running and someone running faster push you forward from behind, all of a sudden your running faster and the load in your body is less since the push accelerated you. If you want to get back to the same level of load on your body you have to push yourself even harder since your already moving faster. Prior to using an EBC I thought you entered the desired max psi and the controller did the rest. I had a manual boost controller on the car for the first build, that was pick a psi level and leave it.
09-04-2016, 10:21 PM
#297
Going to take the car out this week to test out some more EBC settings. I think the wind resistance of higher speeds is applying load the engine has not seen before and allowing it to build more boost. It sucks trying to modulate the throttle to keep it under boost cut level. The spring crack setting has made a huge difference, I'm at the 8 psi setting and blowing past 16 psi very quickly once I have enough load or speed/ wind resistance. My plan is to lower the duty cycle from 40-35 and leave the spring crack pressure at 8 psi. If that doesn't fix it I will start to lower the spring crack level. The responsiveness of the turbo is where I want it, it just won't stay in the Psi range I want. I wish we had boost by gear in the Flash Pro. There is a roll race event being held at an airport in Coalinga, Cali, that would be a nice place to show what the TL can do.
Load is a tricky thing, once the car is in boost the load drops and you need to get more into the throttle to keep the same boost level. It kind of like running and someone running faster push you forward from behind, all of a sudden your running faster and the load in your body is less since the push accelerated you. If you want to get back to the same level of load on your body you have to push yourself even harder since your already moving faster. Prior to using an EBC I thought you entered the desired max psi and the controller did the rest. I had a manual boost controller on the car for the first build, that was pick a psi level and leave it.
Load is a tricky thing, once the car is in boost the load drops and you need to get more into the throttle to keep the same boost level. It kind of like running and someone running faster push you forward from behind, all of a sudden your running faster and the load in your body is less since the push accelerated you. If you want to get back to the same level of load on your body you have to push yourself even harder since your already moving faster. Prior to using an EBC I thought you entered the desired max psi and the controller did the rest. I had a manual boost controller on the car for the first build, that was pick a psi level and leave it.
Im not very sure as to what your problem is (didn't have time to go back and read) but keeping things simple with using the wastegate springs only is another advantage I adore. It's easy to get caught up in the simple complexity of a subsystem. Lol
09-04-2016, 10:28 PM
#298
09-04-2016, 10:53 PM
#299
I think my issue is agressive EBC settings and a tune that was done while it was very hot. Now it's cooler and the addition of added load have my settings making more boost that I tuned for. I have been very busy and haven't driven the car as much as I would like, this would have been solved long ago with more time spent. I am not complaining about the lower gear tire spin, it's fun and allows me to show the power of the car without doing a high speed run. It's pretty easy to not smoke the tires and still accelerate very hard, by waiting to go WOT until 5th.
09-04-2016, 11:15 PM
#300
My advise is just not to stay in boost for very long, that prolonged extra heat is what hurts OEM pistons. That said one of favorite things was high speed pulls up the Sunol grade with the SC, staying in boost for a minute or more on my stock engine. I then ran that engine for almost 100k of boosted life, so these engines can tolerate making much more than stock HP and a far amount of boost. Trying not to shock the system helps as well, I try not to shift hard to limit stress on the car. People were going thru transmissions with SC power levels (320 WHP)due to abuse while we are running at the 500+ level with no issues.
09-05-2016, 12:35 AM
#301
My advise is just not to stay in boost for very long, that prolonged extra heat is what hurts OEM pistons. That said one of favorite things was high speed pulls up the Sunol grade with the SC, staying in boost for a minute or more on my stock engine. I then ran that engine for almost 100k of boosted life, so these engines can tolerate making much more than stock HP and a far amount of boost. Trying not to shock the system helps as well, I try not to shift hard to limit stress on the car. People were going thru transmissions with SC power levels (320 WHP)due to abuse while we are running at the 500+ level with no issues.
It's all about the tune. Running higher octane fuels or even supplementary octane enhancers (i.e. WMI) will also aid in the ability to do extended boost runs. When I had my EGT sensors hooked up on both front and rear manifolds, I would see upwards of around 1475F when running only 93 pump. I added WMI and knocked it down to around 1215F (going off memory but numbers are close). That's also the point at which I noticed knock counts basically vanish from datalogs and haven't seen another one at all since running e85/WMI. I have yet to measure EGT's with the current setup but I'm confident I'm doing ok. It was funny because 93 pump (without WMI) almost always gave me high EGT's even at lower boost numbers. It was around 5lbs or so I began recording 1375F+ and knew it was time to do something or else things wouldn't be lasting long.
As for drivetrain shock, I myself almost always keep the transmission in manual mode (I'm 5AT) and lift before every shift even when in part throttle. I've noticed through datalogging that the factory ecu will retard ignition and even partially close the throttle body to reduce engine torque between shift points but this also will bring about a long period of ignition/boost pressure recovery once the shift has completed that seems to be much longer than when a rapidly lift during the shift. Even with me lifting during the shift, I still maintain a majority of my boost pressure and ignition will not crash hard thus keeping my power high.
10-23-2016, 01:03 PM
#303
Hey Ken,
The car is running fantastic, unfortunately I have been too busy to take it out much. The plan is to get the methanol kit re installed once all the EBC settings are right. My shop removed the meth system during the engine install and I haven't had time to put it back together. On my last engine the kit was malfunctioning and going full pressure at 1-2 psi causing issues with tuning so I shut the system off. I am waiting for KN_TL to
part out his set up to see what he wants for the Methanol system or to troubleshoot my AEM system. Hope your car is working well for you and your move to Cali is going smoothly.
The car is running fantastic, unfortunately I have been too busy to take it out much. The plan is to get the methanol kit re installed once all the EBC settings are right. My shop removed the meth system during the engine install and I haven't had time to put it back together. On my last engine the kit was malfunctioning and going full pressure at 1-2 psi causing issues with tuning so I shut the system off. I am waiting for KN_TL to
part out his set up to see what he wants for the Methanol system or to troubleshoot my AEM system. Hope your car is working well for you and your move to Cali is going smoothly.
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thisaznboi88 (10-23-2016)
10-23-2016, 02:43 PM
#304
10-26-2016, 06:02 PM
#305
Sure is nice to see a handful of reliable turbo j-series in this forum instead of the ticking time bombs they usually are. Putting new tires on mine as I type this as its went through the first set with hardly anything left on them. Boost pressures still at 16-18lbs on stock motor.
Btw, can we PLEASE get some more activity in here! Lol
PS- Just got my Boomslang jump harness in the mail (ebay $100) so it's time to start playing with the AEM FIC6 and see what can be done in regards to an antilag. Wait for them videos to be posted.
Btw, can we PLEASE get some more activity in here! Lol
PS- Just got my Boomslang jump harness in the mail (ebay $100) so it's time to start playing with the AEM FIC6 and see what can be done in regards to an antilag. Wait for them videos to be posted.
Last edited by yungone501; 10-26-2016 at 06:04 PM.
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teh CL (10-28-2016)
10-27-2016, 04:16 PM
#308
Exact opposite for me. I'm f*cked with by anyone that sees my intercooler or hears my loud ass rally style tune. Lol. Last night while on my way home from the shop, I was pulled over (with my son in the car) doing nothing wrong. When the officer approached my window, I was expecting him to give me a reason why he stopped me but instead he began bombarding me with all sorts of questions about the car. Ended up conversing with the officer about 10 minutes on the side of the road. Must say, that was the first. Even my son was awestruck.
10-28-2016, 06:17 AM
#310
I did sell the straight cut gears as I needed the funds immediately. But everything else is still in the car (fuel system, gauges and ebc).
Can't find anything to occupy my mind that drew me in like this has.
The first snow has dropped so I'll possibly be getting the transmissions issues resolved (works great but has a slight whine) and inspected before putting under the portable garage, winterized and there for the next 5-6 months.
Bottom line. Don't wait on me.
10-28-2016, 09:29 AM
#311
Yeah....Well....About that. Intercooler, WMI under the fender is all out. Staring at me.....telling me to put it all back.
I did sell the straight cut gears as I needed the funds immediately. But everything else is still in the car (fuel system, gauges and ebc).
Can't find anything to occupy my mind that drew me in like this has.
The first snow has dropped so I'll possibly be getting the transmissions issues resolved (works great but has a slight whine) and inspected before putting under the portable garage, winterized and there for the next 5-6 months.
Bottom line. Don't wait on me.
I did sell the straight cut gears as I needed the funds immediately. But everything else is still in the car (fuel system, gauges and ebc).
Can't find anything to occupy my mind that drew me in like this has.
The first snow has dropped so I'll possibly be getting the transmissions issues resolved (works great but has a slight whine) and inspected before putting under the portable garage, winterized and there for the next 5-6 months.
Bottom line. Don't wait on me.
10-28-2016, 09:38 AM
#312
Safety Car
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Jose, CA/ Charleston, WV
Posts: 4,045
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^ I think once you start to drive it you really appreciate the work that was put into it. Nothing feels better then the turn of the key and just being to reap the fruits of your labor.
10-29-2016, 07:14 AM
#313
Yeah....Well....About that. Intercooler, WMI under the fender is all out. Staring at me.....telling me to put it all back.
I did sell the straight cut gears as I needed the funds immediately. But everything else is still in the car (fuel system, gauges and ebc).
Can't find anything to occupy my mind that drew me in like this has.
The first snow has dropped so I'll possibly be getting the transmissions issues resolved (works great but has a slight whine) and inspected before putting under the portable garage, winterized and there for the next 5-6 months.
Bottom line. Don't wait on me.
I did sell the straight cut gears as I needed the funds immediately. But everything else is still in the car (fuel system, gauges and ebc).
Can't find anything to occupy my mind that drew me in like this has.
The first snow has dropped so I'll possibly be getting the transmissions issues resolved (works great but has a slight whine) and inspected before putting under the portable garage, winterized and there for the next 5-6 months.
Bottom line. Don't wait on me.
10-29-2016, 09:51 PM
#314
Good to hear KN_TL you have put so much work into this it would be sad to not see you enjoy that fine machine you have built
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