Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

As some of you may know I bought Libert's built low compression engine after his accident. Since then I have been gathering the parts needed to for the install over the past year and I am final ready for install. The engine was dropped off at the machine shop today to have the valve seals replaced and the car is headed over on Monday to start the install. I don't have a truck, so I had a flat bed tow truck transport the engine on a stand to the machine shop. This saved me the trouble of renting a truck or damaging the engine and my wife's SUV.

I have gone back and forth over the year as to wether I should replace the clutch discs in Libert's clutch. The discs look pretty new, but I kept thinking they should be replaced while I have the transmission off the car. The problem is, Tilton ( the clutch maker ) no longer makes this style of clutch and the new style is a 4 puck more aggressive disc. After going back and forth with a number of vendors and the custom non returnable nature of the discs if they dont fit, I decided to stick with the discs that Libert was running in this clutch.

I don't have any pics of the engine on the tow truck, but will get some of the install as it progresses. I am really excited to start driving the TL again, the blow by and super poor gas mileage were really taking the fun out of driving.
I am still running the super rich tune (12.1 idle and 11.5 durring normal non boost driving ) that I got when I installed the mega squirt 3 and even freeway mileage is 15 ish. Poor mileage led to driving in boost more often to make the gas usage worth it and that of course lead to even worse mileage. I am looking forward to running a more normal AFR and getting a ton more power while getting better mileage.

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

ETA for project completion?

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I would like to say 2 weeks, but with all the issues that normally come up, it will probably be closer to 4 weeks.

Sonnick

Dope. Are you staying S/C or you bought his entire motor including the turbo?

EvilVirus

iTrader: (8)

Awesome in for the updates

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Gonna be awesome!
1 vote for you to buy a rebuilt S2000 for cheap and jam this in there instead.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I switched to the turbo a few years ago, Libert's turbo kit was in pretty rough shape after the accident.

FamilyGuy

Looking forward to this, and pics

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

From what I read, Tilton discontinued that design because the friction material was being ripped off the plates due to the reduced size of spreading the puck material.

I'm assuming that was happening in hard launches as I have the same discs and I see no indication of that happening.

Be prepared for one stiff pedal. I couldn't believe how hard it was to depress and feather. Getting their HRB made the effort less than stock.

Did you do anything different with the fuel system other than what Anthony was running? I'm going to use the existing hardline to feed and the added line as the return. Did you get the fuel pump basket from him as well?

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I am going the same route as far as feeding from the stock line and using Russell black 6 an hose as the return. I still have my stock fuel pump and basket sitting on the shelf. What modifications are needed to the basket? I thought you were modding the basket to allow using the stock fuel feed line as your return and then making a new feed.

I may need to look into the HRB if pedal pressure is too high, what did it cost you? It makes me feel better to hear you are having good luck with the clutch discs. How is your build coming along ?

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

The HRB I have is

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ti...iew/make/honda

It's very pricey but was worth it IMHO.

I'm still debating on the fuel pump. The output of the pump goes into a chamber that has a felt type material in it. It outlets at the bottom and the FPR is at the bottom as well. The FPR bypass outlet feeds into the bottom of the basket.

I was considering just hacking out the top of the basket and put a line directly to the feed but I am concerned that I may have starvation issues if any of these additional things aid in keeping things primed.

I asked Gerzand about it and he left everything in place including the stock FPR. In that case, all that you'll need is to drill a hole, remove the webbing so the nut sits flush and use it as the return path.

I just got my pistons yesterday so I have 99.9% of what I need to finish.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

In for the pics. Hope all goes well with install and tuning. Will be watching from the side lines.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

Last delivery before install. Got to love Summit Racing, ordered at 6 pm yesterday and shows up at 11 am this morning. It cost me more than I would like to switch over to regular AN fittings from the questionable push- lok, but it had to be done.

More pics forthcoming.

Speeden6

iTrader: (2)

Good luck and i cant wait to see! second summit racing, they are great and have amazing customer service!

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

Install got pushed back a week due to machine shop delays. I will update when the car gets to the shop.

6spd-GERCO

Exciting project

Do you plan on continuing to run the MS3 or switching over to FlashPro?

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I plan to stay with the MS3 for now, mostly to keep cost under control. I will be switching to the FlashPro as my next project. I would love to make the switch now so I can learn to tune on my own, but another $1200 added to the unknown cost of the install is more than I want to take on right now. All of my local Acura dealers are douchey and the programming of the ecu to the car and immobilizer might be more than they are willing to do. So that is slowing the progress as well.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Thankfully the 06 is the easiest to do. You only need to add the CAN bus connections to the DLC. Everything else is disabled via FP. The existing keys/immobilizer was easily paired to the new ECU and all that was needed was the HIM. But you are right, it's still expensive. But you also won't regret it. Drivability is 110% better especially with the idle control.

When you bought this engine, did you get any information on the piston specs? I am curious how they compare to what I bought.

What are you going to use for head gaskets? Can you tell what Rodney used (OEM, Hypersonic all metal, Cometic). Did he use studs vs bolts?

Was there any head or runner work done?

OEM or aftermarket valve springs?

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I didn't get any specs for the pistons since I bought the engine from Ack05, he bought Bert's car and parted it, so he didn't have much info.

I will likely use OEM or possibly a metal gasket for the heads, I figure the engine is already low comp so no need for a cosmetic head gasket. I was told he used ARP head studs and main cap bolts or studs.
As far as I understand, the heads and cams are type-s and Bert replaced all the valves, springs and retainers in the heads. I forget the brand valves and springs he used for the heads.
Bert said the valve stem seals he installed when doing the heads were leaking causing the car to burn oil. This is the reason the engine is at the machine shop having the seals replaced with OEM.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Thanks.

I'm personally going with Cometic head gaskets and ARP head studs. I couldn't find anything for the mains or rods so I just bought new main bolts and the Pauter rods bolts are new.

I may be wrong but even though the compression is reduced, I'm going to be pumping a lot more boost into the engine which will produce a bigger bang. Since I am replacing 3rd/4th with the straight cut gears and performing the 3rd gear TSB, I am going to go full out with the tune.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I don't have a that clear of a picture of what a cosmetic head gasket does. My thinking was that it decreased compression a little and gave a better sealing surface for the head/ block connection, but mostly a little comp decrease.

I would love to have the straight cut gear set, let us know about any extra noise once they are installed. I haven't followed the Honda Racing team, but I know they were using those gears in the Odyssey which even gutted has to weight more than the TL and put quite a bit of strain on the tranny.

6spd-GERCO

Most of the boosted B-Series guys run OEM head gaskets at high hp, if it was me I would stick with the OEM If everything is in proper order and the head bolts or studs are torqued properly the OEM gasket shouldn't be an issue.

Good choice on the ARP head studs

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

In searching around about cosmetic head gaskets, I found most people didn't like them atleast in the Honda community. I will stay will OEM for now.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I read reviews that were all over the place......not having to re-torque was appealing to me.

I've got a new set of OEM as well so I will compare and decide later.

TLOHTL

Hi Speed.
Good luck bud. Keep us posted !!!

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Cometic head gaskets are a lazy and bad way to decrease compression especially for a boosted application where flame propagation is critical to suppressing detonation in a already detonation prone engine such as the j-series. You are effectively adding volume to the chamber however in the wrong way. Think about the dish of a low compression piston. The highest part of the dish smoothly carries the flame front as it ignites towards the bottom center thereby utilizing the added volume by always applying a force until the air/fuel mixture has fully combusted. The thicker gasket is actually moving that force further away from the top of the piston which can definitely lead to a higher disadvantage than the single advantage of lowering compression.

As mentioned, stick with using only oem head gaskets and lower compression ratio using only dished pistons (ideally) or by having a knowledgable person/shop remove material from the chamber. The second being the least desirable approach.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

My intent is not to reduce compression, I am already doing this with dished pistons. I was looking for sealing properties. I am going to get it dyno tuned to it's maximum potential so I am looking for the best options.

From what I read, the main reason for failure is the lack of preparation with the surfaces. Cometic sells a variety of thicknesses and I purchased the thinnest they sell.

We'll see how they compare once I get them and as I said, decide which to use.

EDIT:

Robert, when using OEM gaskets, does it require a re-torque of the head fasteners? Also, if I decide to go Cometic and eat my words if they fail, are the ARP head studs one use or can they be reused?

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

My apologies for addressing the wrong area of your concern. My reading comprehension always gets the best of me.

But in response to your post here, I would've still chosen oem gaskets over the Cometic gaskets any day. Remember, HPD uses stock head gaskets on their 450hp twin turbo race engine as well as their 500hp+ boosted Odyssey.

Lastly, I've never had to retorque ARP studs before (this is using oem gaskets) but may be different using an aftermarket head gasket. Doubt you will experience any issues here. ARP head studs, like any other fastener, do have a stretch limit. You should be able to find these specs on their site or with the paperwork in the box of the studs. You will need a set of calipers to perform this though. Autozone or Oreillys should have a at least one of these on their shelves if needed.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

Car is going to the shop tomorrow morning, if all goes as planned. In the meantime here are some pics of the clutch and flywheel set up.
I heard from the machine shop yesterday and I am happy to say there were no issues with the valve seal replacement, I half expected to hear it was a stock internal block or there was a ton of issues.

Made my last order today for the oil and filter from Jegs, I prefer Summit Racing due to the super quick shipping, but they want a min order of $100 to get free shipping where Jegs ships items of any cost for free.

I went through some water earlier in the year and may have killed the Methanol system as well as the AFR gauge driver and sensor. My hope is that the damage is limited to the sensor for the AFR and a loose connector for the methanol system, so that I don't have to replace all this stuff. My plan is to run the methanol system, but if it really is dead I may have to rethink that.
Here are the pics

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

Update: Car is at the shop and the install has begun. I will try to get some pics once there is some progress.

twigglius

iTrader: (6)

Damn - this will be fun to see.

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

Is it possible to install the rear head with the engine in the car using headstuds or does it require removal? I'm thinking it's not possible, or at least probably not worth the effort.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

I can answer this by saying that I can install a rear cylinder head on a studded block in my 6g Accord. However it's easier, especially if doing it by yourself, if the studs are installed after the head and gasket have been sat down first. This is because the studs are hard to clear at the awkward angle and will increase the likelihood of gouging/scratching the heads gasket surface. That's me though. And it was still easy for me to thread the studs in with the head on the block. Not certain the 3g gives that clearance or not.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

When by the shop to check on progress and found the rear motor mount broke. I toyed with the idea of ordering a new one, but decided to just weld it back together and switch out to innovative mounts further down the road. Here are some pics I took while there.

[IMG]http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll108/acura_photo/imagejpg4.jpg[/IMG]

6spd-GERCO

Awesome update! isn't the rear engine mount a pain to change when the engines in the car?

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

What stiffness do you have for your mounts? I have 75A's right now and was going to change them over to 95's but they are fine for now so I am going to do the same as you.

I think we're both in for new mounts eventually, everyone with these old designs seem to donut them. Hopefully the new design is better.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I have the 75s right now and either the stiffness of the mount or the amount of metal connecting the rear mounts tab to the brace caused it to snap. I don't have any donut issues at the moment, but I am worried about rewelding that mount and how the others will hold up.

Right now I am trying to figure out how to by pass the stock fuel regulator in the pump, to allow me to use the AEM FPR. Not sure how Bert did it.

crazyasiantl

iTrader: (7)

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I think a lot of people are just leaving it as is.
I asked Gerzand and he said the same thing.

I'm not sure if that area the FPR and outlet is connected to has anything to do with starvation prevention. But I am going to bypass all of that completely.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)