Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

Found some pics from Libert's build. Maybe I'm wrong, I thought the pistons would be dished. Also with 9:1 comp it seems like it would be pretty apparent looking at the piston head.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I came home and checked out the stock pistons. The middle portion of the OEM piston is much larger / higher and protrudes past the top of the piston. The pistons in the new engine looked almost flush with the piston top. I am waiting on a P2R IM spacer to arrive to allow a little more room for the fittings going to the fuel rails and then I will have the car tuned.

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

tony the tiger used wiseco pistons in this build:

https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...00-whp-901774/

those actually look a little similar to the ones he used with less of a dome though and different valve reliefs any serial number or part number on them like in the pics in the other thread?

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

Tony was doing a high comp build, so his pistons would look different. I couldn't find any serial numbers on the pistons but, did find a pic Libert posted of his pistons and they look identical to the ones in the new engine. The shock of not seeing dished pistons was what scared me. Once I was able to get home and check out the stock pistons and found the pic, it eased my concerns. Looking at the stock pistons or in pics, it's hard to see how tall the dome is.

Thanks for the help, I expected to be excited after my shop visit and was throw for a loop by the pistons and everyone saying "yup those don't look low comp " dispite knowing this is a low comp build.

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

If you do the math of how many CC's are actually needed comprised between the valve reliefs and deck height of a flat top piston to significantly lower the compression ratio, it's not much. I have custom wiseco flat top pistons for my application that sit .005" below below the block's deck height and it got me to 9.5:1cr rather quickly. This appears normal by the pics you've taken.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Here are some pics of my off the shelf Wiseco pistons with a -9 dish and according to the catalog is a 9.3:1 C/R. In their catalog it's listed as a K568M89 for a K20 RSX-S. Could be the combustion chamber on the K20 is a lot smaller but I am going to measure my results and will let you know what I actually get.

http://www.wiseco.com/Catalogs/Sport...eteCatalog.pdf

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

K20 is 50.5 (listed) and using the calculator that Gerzand posted in a different thread, and to get numbers matching Wiseco's CR, I used a .1 deck clearance. With a 5 cc dome, that gives the 11.62 listed on Wiseco. With the -9cc dome of the pistons you have, it shows as 9.31.

For the increased combustion chamber of the J32, (52.5cc chamber I presume) it shows CR at 8.94.

They don't have anything in between that size - you have to jump to the 5cc positive dome which puts CR at 11:1.

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

I see based on your calculator results that you used 53.5cc for the jseries head combustion chamber volume (which is correct) but then accidentally typed 52.5 on your post above. I'm just making this post to inform folks so it doesn't confuse anyone when they try the same math themselves.

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

Thanks - totally fat fingered that.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Fat fingers are Andy's specialty.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

Update:
Did a little tuning yesterday. I couldn't stay for the whole dyno session but, did get some pics of the progress. I planed to tune to 600 WHP but, after a lot of thought I decided to limit the power to 450 WHP. The car has been down for a long time and I don't want to risk the transmission. You have to love how turbos TQ and HP numbers are almost identical.
I don't have the final dyno charts but, I was told we made the target numbers. The lower dyno chart is from running the AEM Fic when I first had the turbo installed.

UTAH TSX

Nice curious how much boost it took to get over the 400 mark, I was surprised that we got 400 with our boost falling to 5 PSI. Have fun driving bet you've been missing the surge of power

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I think the 405 WHP run was 8 psi. I haven't looked into you setup but, if you have a ball bearing turbo combined with the extra displacement and high comp you might be making 400 WHP at a lower psi. Are you going to dyno the car once your done tuning? I really do miss the power, my commute car has about 70 WHP (civic HX ).

UTAH TSX

Yeah we will put it on a dyno when the tuning is done, it's taking a bit trying to get the boost stable and not spike, the broken piston story's has us a little nervous

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Are you running meth injection on your setup?

UTAH TSX

No meth just careful tuning, we have pee water 91 octane

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Why not use it then? It will help the IATs, the combustion temps, EGTs, knock suppression, etc...just curious. Especially since you fear breaking things internally on your stock motor.

UTAH TSX

#1 I hate it to much crap pumps tanks controller lines #2 It's a DD #3 I think we can make plenty of power without it #4 refer to #1, My kid want's it but I'm fighting it

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I'm using the windshield washer tank to hold the methanol/water mix and there is a nice mounting spot for the pump right below the tank. The AEM controller is pretty easy to use as well if you guys change your mind. I don't use or have the windshield sprayers connected anyway, since I have removed the cowl below the windshield to aid in ventilation of the engine compartment.

My methanol injection system was damaged in a rain storm, so it not working. The plan was to tune without it and just run it as a safe guard, so I will fix it at some point. I welded a bung for the methanol nozzle about 2 feet from the TB and seem to be working pretty well. I also have only gone thru 1 gal of "boost juice " in 10k+ miles, so even with the larger jet installed and a good bit of driving in boost I didn't go thru much.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

The size of the windshield washer tank is massive. The oil cooler has also helped a lot to keep temps in check and it adds another quart to the oil system. I have been running this plate style Earls oil cooler on older mustangs for a long time and they are very durable even when mounted in a area hit by debris.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Hi Speed is right. Its a much simpler system than most imagine it to be and other than the need to add fluid, its relatively a maintenance free/automated setup. Its simplicity (not to mention recently improved technology for increased reliability) and cost makes it almost a necessity for anyone running boost. It will give knock resistance comparable to race fuel. I know admitting your son is right isn't very easy to do (mine is 12 and thinks he's an adult) but you should reconsider the decision against using it. Just saying...

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I agree with the meth injection addition as well but you both live in sunny warm areas.

I had initially used my windshield washer bottle as my tank but found I needed my washer sprayers being in a 4 season state.

I was able to fit another bottle next to the washer bottle but it isn't as big so I also installed a float switch. I still need to wire it into my boost controller as a failsafe when the bottle is empty.

Yes, more work but worth it.

I would also recommend Alky over AEM. Julio is awesome to work with.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I run this

Aquamist direct

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Those are extremely nice systems.....

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

Update on head damage:
I picked up Bert's heads today from the shop and pulled the cams out of both the damaged and non damaged head. What I found seemed to warrant my recent head swap. Both cams had some gaulding on the retaining lobes, with what I think is the damaged heads cam being the worst. Both cams also had a good bit of rust on the lobes and retaining surfaces. The engine sat for a long time before install and I think that let enough moisture in to damage the cams. Here are some pics I took of both cams.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

good call on the swap

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

The car has been home now for a few days and I finally had a chance to drive around a little bit. The extra power combined with it coming in much more quickly has been fun. The twin disk clutch is definitely a challenge to drive,with the instant grab and lightweight flywheel starting from a stop has resulted in quite a few stalls. Once the car is moving there is no problem but, starting from a stop is taking some getting use to. I have always driven the car pretty gently so riding the clutch and launching at a higher rpm is difficult to get use to.

Now I'm on to fixing the Methanol system and replacing the o2 sensor. I hope the Inovate AFR controller is not damaged from the water I stupidly drove thru. With the car running as rich as it was, I fouled 2 o2 sensors since the turbo was installed but, it did die around the time of the puddle incident. Here's a pic of the car resting with its friend the Mustang.

6spd-GERCO

Very nice Hi Speed! Why did you go with a lightweight flywheel? Just curious.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Sup buddy! Amazing work man! Glad to see you're still in the game. I remember before supercharging my TL how many threads I read and read almost every single post you made about supercharging the TL. Other than power, which would you have liked better the Turbo or the supercharger?

I can't pull away from the whine, sounds so awesome.

UTAH TSX

Looks good but you're left leg is going to be all beefy if you drive it to much LOL I see you have the cowl off to let the heat out we are messing with that now that it's warming up here in Utah

Cj002

This build sounds awesome! I am fairly new to this forum. Anyone hear word on the CT supercharger? Is it worth the money? Or would it be better to just go with a Turbo? Also, the S2000 motor swap...would that fit in a 3rd gen TL? I have an 04 TL and I am starting to price upgrades and thangs, so any input ya'll could throw my way is greatly appreciated.
Thank you,

Chris

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

The stock flywheel is a two piece dampened flywheel to absorb the shock of shifting, the new flywheel is the more traditional solid flywheel. The aluminum flywheel used for the twin disc clutch is quite a bit lighter.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I really loved the SC whine but, the way power comes in with the turbo I'm happier with the turbo. For someone starting or staying with a stock car the SC would be the best bet, the whine and power increase from stock with free flowing exhaust is the best bang for the buck.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

See if you can find the blackmarket section (for sale parts section ) There is a SC available, other wise check with one of our vendors. The s2000 engine idea is not worth it.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I was amazed how much pedal effort there was with the Tilton twin disc. My typical driving is around town so I invested in the hydraulic release setup.

Mystralhawk

Hey there, I bought a B&M trans cooler (for my AT) but realized I liked the mounting design of your Earls cooler much better. Can you tell me which one you ordered or the size?

One of the issues I've seen with plate coolers is that they want you to use the straws to poke through your radiator or you have to find a weird way to mount them.

Thanks!

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

The cooler I used was 4 inch tall by 12 inches long and 2 inches thick using -8 AN lines. That said I was trying to look up the part # for you and I looks like its not offered any more in -8 AN fittings. The replacement part uses -10 AN fittings and is 13 inches long. Your using it to cool you tranny so the larger lines should be ok. I would get the black version since it hides it the cooler better. Check this one out.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ea...aerl/overview/

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

I know all about that whine. I love it! Keep up the great work on your TL buddy!

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

That looks sweet, I badly want to do a polished intake. I bought a used IM a while back and haven't got around to polishing it. Also trying to decide on black or blue power coating for the valve cover.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

It wasn't all that terrible. If you have a hand sander start with 80 and work your way to wet sanding 1000 to 4000 grit. Use mothers aluminum polish and put in a lot of elbow grease. It took me about 3 solid days (Friday-Sunday) to do the intake. The blower was a few hours. I spray painted my valve covers, totally regret it now. Powder coating is a MUST. I would do something nice with pearl in it. Everything else is black under the hood. I got my wheels powder coated. I was in this guys office for 3 hours picking colors because everything looks great! If you need any help let me know.