Factory IM Spacer - 17108-RDJ-A00
#761
wham bam thank you ma'am
iTrader: (8)
just sharing my experiance, but ive been screwed over by someone sending money transfers from western union from another country. ive received the money. sent out the stuff. then money was gone a few days later. and i couldnt get a hold of the buyer ever again. so i only do paypal or cash. that was just my experience
#762
7th Gear
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Salalah, Oman
Age: 45
Posts: 7
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just sharing my experiance, but ive been screwed over by someone sending money transfers from western union from another country. ive received the money. sent out the stuff. then money was gone a few days later. and i couldnt get a hold of the buyer ever again. so i only do paypal or cash. that was just my experience
#763
7th Gear
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Salalah, Oman
Age: 45
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Call to any willing to help
Following up on my earlier plea, am requesting anyone willing to get the money off me (parts + shipping to my address I mentioned a few posts back)
I can't get these parts locally, hence asking for your help on the same.
Factory Intake Manifold Spacer (1 Required) - 17108-RDJ-A00
Bolts 8M x 105mm (7 Required) - 95701-08105-08/ BMW part for the 8M x 105mm Bolt 07-11-9-904-532
Studs - 8M x 100mm (2 required) - 92900-08100-1B
Intake Manifold gasket (1 required) - 17105-RCA-A01
Since we're quite limited down here when it comes to banking and other options, the only way I can send the money is via Western Union transfer. For that, I'll need your full name, and/or father's name as it appears on your id (since you need to present your id to get the money)
Pls feel free to collect the money first, then confirm here that u received it, then proceed to send the package to me.
Thanks in advance to anyone willing and able to help.
best regards
I can't get these parts locally, hence asking for your help on the same.
Factory Intake Manifold Spacer (1 Required) - 17108-RDJ-A00
Bolts 8M x 105mm (7 Required) - 95701-08105-08/ BMW part for the 8M x 105mm Bolt 07-11-9-904-532
Studs - 8M x 100mm (2 required) - 92900-08100-1B
Intake Manifold gasket (1 required) - 17105-RCA-A01
Since we're quite limited down here when it comes to banking and other options, the only way I can send the money is via Western Union transfer. For that, I'll need your full name, and/or father's name as it appears on your id (since you need to present your id to get the money)
Pls feel free to collect the money first, then confirm here that u received it, then proceed to send the package to me.
Thanks in advance to anyone willing and able to help.
best regards
#764
TLX-S
iTrader: (8)
Alright. Spacers are installed and I've put a few hundred miles on them. In all honesty, the power (bump in torque) is definitely there. Am I now swatting ferraris left and right? Absolutely...not. I decided NOT to cut the hood, but instead installed a total of 10 washers (split into both sides). One in the front of the latch, and four in the rear. There's a little bit of lift and it doesn't look all that bad...at all! I was relatively surprised to see the outcome. Car does look a tad bit more aggressive, and when driving, it's something that I don't even notice. I'll post pictures tomorrow. Oh and on a side note, everything (hoses, etc) seem to be doing just fine. I adjusted the hoses, lines and my cai. Perfect!
Edit: Spacer installed
Edit: Spacer installed
#766
v 4910shp/19,600ft-lb v
Posted this in the Problems section, no response yet. Looking for some help.
I recently installed the intake manifold spacer. I started and ran the car. It sounded fine. Then, a few days later, I heard a leaking sound from what seems below the actual IM.
What can I do to eliminate this sound/problem? Should I use some gasket sealer?
I can take a video/sound clip if that helps...
Thanks, Ken
I recently installed the intake manifold spacer. I started and ran the car. It sounded fine. Then, a few days later, I heard a leaking sound from what seems below the actual IM.
What can I do to eliminate this sound/problem? Should I use some gasket sealer?
I can take a video/sound clip if that helps...
Thanks, Ken
#768
v 4910shp/19,600ft-lb v
#770
Whatever I do what I want
iTrader: (3)
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/icons/icon7.gif)
Just got all the parts in from Acura including the bolts. Took about a week to come in and runs $44.04 at cost. .I'll be using two P2R thermal gaskets also with a torque wrench. Tonight I just finished cutting the space under my hood for it and hope to install it on my next day off.
#771
takin care of Business in
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
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^^^ you dont need to cut the hood....
i have the spacer installed without cutting my hood....or chopping a piece of the spacer....
i did a couple of different things to avoid any difficulty:
1> i put 2 spacers under each bolt (3 on each side) of the strut bar....this avoided any issues many had with the brake booster line.....instead of going with a 90degree bent or some.....
2> i put 2 spacers under the bottom bolt and 1 under the front bolt of the hood on each side....this made the hood pop but not a lot....enough for the clearance....
also....i have innovative mounts....i dont know if they sit lower than stock....to make sure your MDX spacer fits....keep it on the intake manifold and try closing ur hood (dont slam it).....bring the hood down slowly and see if it will close.....if it will then your GOLDEN.....
btw my hood did close even with the fire/noise/whatever insulation blanket.....
i have the spacer installed without cutting my hood....or chopping a piece of the spacer....
i did a couple of different things to avoid any difficulty:
1> i put 2 spacers under each bolt (3 on each side) of the strut bar....this avoided any issues many had with the brake booster line.....instead of going with a 90degree bent or some.....
2> i put 2 spacers under the bottom bolt and 1 under the front bolt of the hood on each side....this made the hood pop but not a lot....enough for the clearance....
also....i have innovative mounts....i dont know if they sit lower than stock....to make sure your MDX spacer fits....keep it on the intake manifold and try closing ur hood (dont slam it).....bring the hood down slowly and see if it will close.....if it will then your GOLDEN.....
btw my hood did close even with the fire/noise/whatever insulation blanket.....
#772
takin care of Business in
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this is the spacer am talking about....just a little bigger diameter center hole
![](http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31Y901A7N9L._SL500_AA300_.jpg)
#773
Whatever I do what I want
iTrader: (3)
So far everything mounted and is fitting well but, THE PROBLEM is I broke 2 bolts on my manifold.One on the top cover peice below the A of the acura lettering and one that mounts a sensor with 2 tubes(1 brake booster hose i think).It makes a loud whistle and I feel air sucking in from the broken bolt.Should I get a EX-Out bolt remover kit,take it somewhere,or get a new manifold?
__________________
__________________
#774
Three Wheelin'
Just get the bolt taken out, it will cost alot less then replacing the manifold.
Did anyone ever post numbers with milling the spacer to 1 inch? I HATE the look of a hood sticking up. that and i am S/C so i am going to get a more flexable hose to connect to the blower to see if it will work.
Did anyone ever post numbers with milling the spacer to 1 inch? I HATE the look of a hood sticking up. that and i am S/C so i am going to get a more flexable hose to connect to the blower to see if it will work.
#776
takin care of Business in
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i broke 2 of the bolts too and the shops i took em to said it will be expensive to extract them....so i ended up getting ported and polished intake manifold.....the loud whistle was fucking insane.....
#777
Whatever I do what I want
iTrader: (3)
![Thumbs up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/icons/icon14.gif)
I drilled it out and used a cross thread bit the back the bolts out. Here are all my install pictures. Yes I did paint it RED although it looks orange in pictures.
Everything works,my hood closes,no whisling,no CEL and no leaks.
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I had to pull on many sensor wires and hoses to make them reach/fit. My intake had to have the vibration mount relocated.The brake booster tube had to be bent to get the hose back on it. Despite the broken bolts everything went smooth. Please copy a picture in your post if you have question on anything.
p.s. I took so many pictures becasue I had so few reference pictures for this project and hope it helps others.
Everything works,my hood closes,no whisling,no CEL and no leaks.
![](http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j146/steveprotractor/Acura%20TL/IM%20spacer/th_IMspacer1.jpg)
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![2 Cents](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/2cents.gif)
p.s. I took so many pictures becasue I had so few reference pictures for this project and hope it helps others.
#778
Three Wheelin'
This mod is super easy to do, I had my spacer milled to 1 inch think and then tried to use it with the CTE S/C kit... Didnt work out. I may mill it to .5 inches as i think that should work.
One question, i think i read that the torque spec for the upper is 16-18 ft lbs correct?
One question, i think i read that the torque spec for the upper is 16-18 ft lbs correct?
#779
Safety Car
^ Increasing the intake runner length is a mod for a n/a engine, not a FI engine. The increased runner length is meant to tune the resonance waves in the intake track to assist with cylinder filling (VE) within a narrow rpm range.
The overall effect of properly timing the resonance waves is very meager compared to any positive pressure from FI. In other words, the spacer is useless on a s/c engine.
The overall effect of properly timing the resonance waves is very meager compared to any positive pressure from FI. In other words, the spacer is useless on a s/c engine.
Originally Posted by (wikipedia)
Pressurization - A tuned intake path can have a light pressurizing effect similar to a low-pressure supercharger due to Helmholtz resonance. However, this effect occurs only over a narrow engine speed range which is directly influenced by intake length. A variable intake can create two or more pressurized "hot spots." When the intake air speed is higher, the dynamic pressure pushing the air (and/or mixture) inside the engine is increased. The dynamic pressure is proportional to the square of the inlet air speed, so by making the passage narrower or longer the speed/dynamic pressure is increased.
(click here for source)
(click here for source)
#780
Senior Moderator
Just get the bolt taken out, it will cost alot less then replacing the manifold.
Did anyone ever post numbers with milling the spacer to 1 inch? I HATE the look of a hood sticking up. that and i am S/C so i am going to get a more flexable hose to connect to the blower to see if it will work.
Did anyone ever post numbers with milling the spacer to 1 inch? I HATE the look of a hood sticking up. that and i am S/C so i am going to get a more flexable hose to connect to the blower to see if it will work.
#781
Three Wheelin'
The spacer is 40mm thick stock. i had mine milled to 20mm. I used a band saw and cut it in about half (25mm) and then had it milled to the 20mm.
The shop that did my milling said no matter if i am FI or NA the spacer will make a torque difference so i was going to try to use it anyway.
The shop that did my milling said no matter if i am FI or NA the spacer will make a torque difference so i was going to try to use it anyway.
#784
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Come to the meet in Kansas and will install it for you for FREE !!!
#786
Three Wheelin'
#790
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^^^ that looks just gorgeous....dont know how much it will gain over the stock size but damn that looks good
![Big Grin](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#792
The Track Terror
Just installed this yesterday...took all of 20 mins to remove the intake manifold and another 45 to install the spacer and hammer a notch in the strutbar to clear the rubber hose that would hit it...I put nylon spacers on the hood latches to clear the manifold instead of dremeling the center hood rib...but I think I will cut it next week so I don't have the hood pop...
Performance gains are definitely felt throughout the whole rev range and the AEM intake definitely sounds more loud and aggressive...overall this is a great cheap mod that should have been there from the factory...no question about getting it, just buy the spacer, gasket, and 7 bolts for $60ish and enjoy!
Performance gains are definitely felt throughout the whole rev range and the AEM intake definitely sounds more loud and aggressive...overall this is a great cheap mod that should have been there from the factory...no question about getting it, just buy the spacer, gasket, and 7 bolts for $60ish and enjoy!
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^^^ yes....
I asked a shop to split the spacer in 2....so you can use 1 and sell the other one....the shop wanted me to pay ~$300 for the milling....i said "fawk it" and just installed the hood spacers....
I asked a shop to split the spacer in 2....so you can use 1 and sell the other one....the shop wanted me to pay ~$300 for the milling....i said "fawk it" and just installed the hood spacers....
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I think a CNC machine....I wudnt take a dremel or a saw to it LOL....
I added a P2R gasket on both sides to reduce the heat contact points....since the heat travels up from the runners to the manifold to the TB....
after using the MDX spacer sandwiched in 2 P2R gaskets and a Moores Performance Spacer sandwiched in 2 P2R thermal gaskets, my TB stay cold during 100 degree weather....i can seriously stick my tongue on it after driving in the heat....
PS: Dont forget UCM and Coolant Bypass
I added a P2R gasket on both sides to reduce the heat contact points....since the heat travels up from the runners to the manifold to the TB....
after using the MDX spacer sandwiched in 2 P2R gaskets and a Moores Performance Spacer sandwiched in 2 P2R thermal gaskets, my TB stay cold during 100 degree weather....i can seriously stick my tongue on it after driving in the heat....
PS: Dont forget UCM and Coolant Bypass
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GivatiTL (11-27-2011)
#798
just ordered parts last week. going to get milled down, not concerned with diminishing gains as any little bit helps, plus i want to clean out the IM/EGR while in there. going to use one P2R thremal gasket, milled down spacer, oem gasket. i have stock motor mounts. will remove the rug and engine cover but prefer not to cut the hood.
How much should i take off the spacer? hoping to avoid paying the shop twice to cut more off. ive read the thread numerous times and have seen 7mm, 10mm and 20mm, etc. would appreciate any feedback.
How much should i take off the spacer? hoping to avoid paying the shop twice to cut more off. ive read the thread numerous times and have seen 7mm, 10mm and 20mm, etc. would appreciate any feedback.