I've searched through a ton of threads, and really a lot say search, or are outdated. I don't have much experience with processors or line drivers either. I'm looking to install a JL HD900/5, set of Pioneer C172prs components, and a 10w6v2 into my 2006 with navi. Originally I have a p99rs headunit to run in my other car, but I didn't see myself putting it in the TL. Looking to achieve decent sound and not kill my wallet. I don't want to buy a bit one etc. How can I cost effectively install these? I couldn't find diagrams on where to tap, before or after amp etc.

 

you can see what I did with a very similar amp.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/mild-grade-fever-854353/

 

I think Pohljms system is a great model for good sound, output, and bang for the buck. I suggest getting it going on the passive crossovers first with the amp bridged and if you want to add a processor and go active later, unbridge it and run it all separately. You can get carried away easily as I did so a clear goal is a good idea.

About the processor... I could never go back to a non time aligned system. Once you get used to a stage with a center image where the sound no longer sounds like it's coming from the speakers but instead coming from the windshield. You can hear where the singer is standing, where the instruments are. There's depth to the stage, it basically recreates the sound as it was recorded. I would say the processor makes as big of a difference as going from stock to badass equipment. It's a sharp learning curve and it will probably cost you hundreds of hours of tuning to get it where you want it and it's something you never really stop toying with or learning new stuff. Sometimes I wish I didn't have the adjustability.

I really like the W6 but if you haven't bought the 10", I suggest the 12" or 13.5" if you have the space. A 13W6 sounds soooo good when in an infinite baffle configuration and you lose hardly any trunk space. If you go with the 10" you might consider ported. It will give you more output than a sealed 12" and if tuned low it will sound great

Almost forgot, if you were doing just the sub, you could grab the signal from the stock sub plug and run it straight to your amp with no loc or anything else needed. Since you're adding the fronts too you don't want to get the signal after the stock amp or you will have a hiss in the system that will never go away. If you take the front left and right from the headunit, before the stock amp it will give you the full range signal to run the subs and fronts from. The downside is you'll lose the sub level adjustability. You can always run the sub signal as I suggested above and the fronts preamp. It's just a little extra work and the sub could be turned up and down from the stock radio.

 

So basically, if I wanted to I could run the Arc Audio ALD for the front, and run the sub after the amp? Would I just tap those wires after the amp and solder some rca plugs to them basically?

 

It's debatable if you really need a line driver to boost the pre-amp signal for your JL amp. I chose to use one just because it makes it slightly harder to pick up any audible noise on the signal's run to the processor/amps and at the time with my MS8 that was previously installed I requried one so it was already wired into the car.

I'm sure the Arc one is very nice but you might check out the RF BLD as well, I belive it's quite a bit cheaper and I've had good luck with it.

With the subs, you're correct, just tap into or cut off the factory subwoofer plug, soldier some RCAs and plug into the amp. Keep in mind you will be limited by the factory crossover settings going after the stock amp. I believe the lowpass filter is around 80hz or some say anyway It also seems to cut a little of the low-low end of the bass, probably to protect the stock sub. Since you will already be tapping into the pre-amp signal for the fronts and it's a full range signal you can always use that for the subs as well, you just won't have control over the subwoofer level from the factory headunit. I can't remember if the 900/5 will operate with just one set of inputs for everything or if the sub needs it's own RCAs hooked into it. If you need to split the pre-amp signal between two different sets of RCAs then the line driver might not be a bad idea. If I remember right, splitting the signal reduces it's strength but maybe someone can correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Here's what I pulled from the manual. Looks like I can just run the signal directly to the amp off the wire. Since I'm not good with soldering, maybe I'll just buy the speaker wire to rca adapters.

“Input Voltage” Switch

A wide range of signal input voltages can be
accommodated by each of the HD900/5’s differentialbalanced
inputs (200mV – 8V RMS). This wide range
is split up into two sub-ranges, accessible via the

“Input Voltage”

switch selects an input sensitivity range between
200mV and 2V for all the amplifier channels. This
means that the

switch selects an input sensitivity range between
800mV and 8V. This is for use with speaker-level
outputs from source units and small amplifiers
found in many OEM (factory-installed) systems.
To use speaker-level sources, splice the speaker
output wires of the source unit or small amplifier
onto a pair of RCA plugs for each input pair or use
the JL Audio ECS Speaker Wire to RCA adaptor
(XB-CLRAIC2-SW). It is not necessary (or advisable)
to use “Line Output Converters” with

your HD900/5.

 

So in essense I could buy either 2 or 3 of these right?


After reading that, would you suggest before or after amp now? and set to high or low?

 

The fronts must be done before the factory amp.

It's hard to say with the subs. That adaptor would work fine and it would be so easy to do, you might as well run the subs from the stock sub plug and have the sub section set on high level.

You can try the fronts straight from the HU to the amp and it will work but you may or may not get full output from the amp. You can try it that way first and if it doesn't get loud enough for you, install a line driver. From the stock HU, the amp would be set for low level. After installing a line driver it could use either setting. There's a pretty big overlap in acceptable voltages between the high and low settings on the amp.

The only thing I wonder about is the amp. I've currently got 3 JL HD amps in the car and I still own the 900/5. I don't remember the sub section having it's own input sensitivity adjustment but I do believe the amp can be configured to use the rear channel setting as the sub or something to that effect.

 

I just ran front L and R, amp separates the sub. Add the optional remote sub knob and you have control

 

Looks like that's the route I'm going. What would either of you recommend for ipod/iphone on the navi?

 

You don't need a line driver for the HD amps. Or v2 XDs for that matter. They will work fine with the balanced 1V> output. Your gain will be up pretty high, but that is fine b/c you have such a small input.

 

I have no idea what most people use but I need to get familiar with it. What I do know is most say using something that bypasses the iPhone or iPods DAC that uses a better one can substantially improve sound.

 

I am not sure I understand the question, but I am using an iSimple.

 

Ended up getting the isimple. Ideally would've liked something that bypassed dac etc but I feel I have other issues to work out first now. I had someone do the install for me and after looking at wiring diagrams, I realized the guy who did it took the signal after the amp into the line driver. These components sound awful now. I'm assuming it's because of that signal right? Gonna have to redo that. I don't like having the sub after the amp either. Too high for my liking.

 

Pre amp signals please

 

Left you a txt a week ago..... guess you never received it...