Kicker 08ZX7005 amp, and new system. Go before stock amp or after? Noob questions.
#1
Kicker 08ZX7005 amp, and new system. Go before stock amp or after? Noob questions.
Sorry for these redundant questions, I searched quite a few threads but couldn't seem to get an explicit answer.
My buddy and I are going to do an install on his 07 TL. He bought the Kicker 08ZX7005 amp (it's discontinued) but it has balanced differential inputs.
Can be found: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...08ZX700.5.html
We're putting in new components and new rears, and then running a sub into the trunk.
Here's my questions:
1.) Is it best to go before the stock amp for the signal or after. If we go before to we retain the stock amp in place and just pull the signal? (I guess in both cases we would retain the amp in there?)
2.) Do we keep the center channel speaker connected for voice prompts? And will doing this install kill the bluetooth for the phone?
3.) Is there anything else we need besides the amp to make this work (I guess it depends on pre or post stock amp).
Any help you could give would be most appreciated before we dig in here.
FYI: The speakers are just Polk DB's and a power punch RF 10" sub. He didn't have an enormous budget for this project.
My buddy and I are going to do an install on his 07 TL. He bought the Kicker 08ZX7005 amp (it's discontinued) but it has balanced differential inputs.
Can be found: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...08ZX700.5.html
We're putting in new components and new rears, and then running a sub into the trunk.
Here's my questions:
1.) Is it best to go before the stock amp for the signal or after. If we go before to we retain the stock amp in place and just pull the signal? (I guess in both cases we would retain the amp in there?)
2.) Do we keep the center channel speaker connected for voice prompts? And will doing this install kill the bluetooth for the phone?
3.) Is there anything else we need besides the amp to make this work (I guess it depends on pre or post stock amp).
Any help you could give would be most appreciated before we dig in here.
FYI: The speakers are just Polk DB's and a power punch RF 10" sub. He didn't have an enormous budget for this project.
#2
1) I'm going pre amp and I'm just going to cut the wires I need for signal
3) Pre amp might need a line driver, post amp loc.
Check out my thread. I've gotten a few detailed responses covering some of the things you asked about.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/possible-856188/
3) Pre amp might need a line driver, post amp loc.
Check out my thread. I've gotten a few detailed responses covering some of the things you asked about.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/possible-856188/
#3
^ Thanks! I actually read through that thread earlier but still confused me on if it's "better" to take pre or post. Especially since we're doing all the speakers.
Also still trying to figure out the bluetooth for the phone, and if we keep the factory amp installed or just tap the signals whether we do pre or post amp.
Edit: Would something like this work? Sending the signal from the H/U to this:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...SL-09ZISL.html
And then from there to the new amp bypassing the stock amp altogether?
Also still trying to figure out the bluetooth for the phone, and if we keep the factory amp installed or just tap the signals whether we do pre or post amp.
Edit: Would something like this work? Sending the signal from the H/U to this:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...SL-09ZISL.html
And then from there to the new amp bypassing the stock amp altogether?
Last edited by cacicgt7; 05-18-2012 at 07:44 AM.
#5
^ Thanks! I actually read through that thread earlier but still confused me on if it's "better" to take pre or post. Especially since we're doing all the speakers.
Also still trying to figure out the bluetooth for the phone, and if we keep the factory amp installed or just tap the signals whether we do pre or post amp.
Edit: Would something like this work? Sending the signal from the H/U to this:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...SL-09ZISL.html
And then from there to the new amp bypassing the stock amp altogether?
Also still trying to figure out the bluetooth for the phone, and if we keep the factory amp installed or just tap the signals whether we do pre or post amp.
Edit: Would something like this work? Sending the signal from the H/U to this:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...SL-09ZISL.html
And then from there to the new amp bypassing the stock amp altogether?
#6
^ Thanks! I actually read through that thread earlier but still confused me on if it's "better" to take pre or post. Especially since we're doing all the speakers.
Also still trying to figure out the bluetooth for the phone, and if we keep the factory amp installed or just tap the signals whether we do pre or post amp.
Edit: Would something like this work? Sending the signal from the H/U to this:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...SL-09ZISL.html
And then from there to the new amp bypassing the stock amp altogether?
Also still trying to figure out the bluetooth for the phone, and if we keep the factory amp installed or just tap the signals whether we do pre or post amp.
Edit: Would something like this work? Sending the signal from the H/U to this:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...SL-09ZISL.html
And then from there to the new amp bypassing the stock amp altogether?
Maybe I'll sell you my RF 3sixty.2
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cacicgt7 (05-18-2012)
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#8
That will work to convert speaker wire to RCA's and you can then run that into your amp if you'd like. If you're feeling lazy then you can run it into your amp like that (without a line driver) and see how your gains turn out. Line drivers are inexpensive so I'd just pick one up
Maybe I'll sell you my RF 3sixty.2
All good information OP. You might not need a line driver per say, but it'd help. They aren't that expensive and will really help your amps.
Maybe I'll sell you my RF 3sixty.2
All good information OP. You might not need a line driver per say, but it'd help. They aren't that expensive and will really help your amps.
Thanks for all this info. I told him to forget about the rears, but he takes people in the back of the car and wants to do the speakers back there since it's not just him driving all the time.
So just to recap what I've learned here:
Take signal from H/U to line drivers, from line drivers to new amp (new amp to speakers).
Keep center attached to stock amp, but disconnect rear speakers and sub from stock amp.
For a line driver I was looking at this:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...te-RF-BLD.html
I'll need two correct? One for the front componenets, and one for the rears. I DON'T need one for the sub do I? Or should I get one anyway. (so three? that's getting $$$$)
Also with this line driver does he not need an amp that has balanced differential inputs anymore? Or should he still go with that kicker.
Thanks again for answering all this. I figure it's a pretty straight forwrd install, but the TL makes it not quite straight forward!
Last edited by cacicgt7; 05-18-2012 at 09:59 AM.
#9
I also found this, which might be the all-in-one line driver solution for all the channels.... (At least I'm hoping)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC6I...3#overview-tab
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC6I...3#overview-tab
#10
Thanks for all this info. I told him to forget about the rears, but he takes people in the back of the car and wants to do the speakers back there since it's not just him driving all the time.
So just to recap what I've learned here:
Take signal from H/U to line drivers, from line drivers to new amp (new amp to speakers).
Keep center attached to stock amp, but disconnect rear speakers and sub from stock amp.
For a line driver I was looking at this:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...te-RF-BLD.html
I'll need two correct? One for the front componenets, and one for the rears. I DON'T need one for the sub do I? Or should I get one anyway. (so three? that's getting $$$$)
Also with this line driver does he not need an amp that has balanced differential inputs anymore? Or should he still go with that kicker.
Thanks again for answering all this. I figure it's a pretty straight forwrd install, but the TL makes it not quite straight forward!
So just to recap what I've learned here:
Take signal from H/U to line drivers, from line drivers to new amp (new amp to speakers).
Keep center attached to stock amp, but disconnect rear speakers and sub from stock amp.
For a line driver I was looking at this:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...te-RF-BLD.html
I'll need two correct? One for the front componenets, and one for the rears. I DON'T need one for the sub do I? Or should I get one anyway. (so three? that's getting $$$$)
Also with this line driver does he not need an amp that has balanced differential inputs anymore? Or should he still go with that kicker.
Thanks again for answering all this. I figure it's a pretty straight forwrd install, but the TL makes it not quite straight forward!
Yes - With a line driver you won't need an amp that accepts balanced differential inputs, but since he has the Kicker amp already he might as well use it.
Last edited by rich20730; 05-18-2012 at 10:33 AM. Reason: typo
#11
I also found this, which might be the all-in-one line driver solution for all the channels.... (At least I'm hoping)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC6I...3#overview-tab
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC6I...3#overview-tab
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cacicgt7 (05-18-2012)
#12
Thanks for all this info. I told him to forget about the rears, but he takes people in the back of the car and wants to do the speakers back there since it's not just him driving all the time.
Even then...the stock rears on the factory amp will be plenty for rear fill.
So just to recap what I've learned here:
Take signal from H/U to line drivers, from line drivers to new amp (new amp to speakers).
Yes
Keep center attached to stock amp, but disconnect rear speakers and sub from stock amp.
For a line driver I was looking at this:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...te-RF-BLD.html
I'll need two correct? One for the front componenets, and one for the rears. I DON'T need one for the sub do I? Or should I get one anyway. (so three? that's getting $$$$)
The BLD is good, but I would try to hunt down an Audiocontrol Matrix or something like that. You can use the Front Left and Front Right signal and have that full range signal sent to all your outputs on the line driver. Much more simple than cutting up FR/FL, Sub, RR/RL or whatever.
Also with this line driver does he not need an amp that has balanced differential inputs anymore? Or should he still go with that kicker.
It's been said that if you're signal is strong enough (line-driver) then you wont pick up noise. I can't say for sure as I've never tried it, but a few of the regulars have said it works. The Kicker will be fine if he already has it, but if he'd just amp the fronts and sub and leave the rears alone...he could do a nicer 4-channel with more power. You can put all the power you want on the factory speakers...and they might sound a little better....but they won't get a ton louder or sound better like replacements. Their efficiency is already good.
Even then...the stock rears on the factory amp will be plenty for rear fill.
So just to recap what I've learned here:
Take signal from H/U to line drivers, from line drivers to new amp (new amp to speakers).
Yes
Keep center attached to stock amp, but disconnect rear speakers and sub from stock amp.
For a line driver I was looking at this:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...te-RF-BLD.html
I'll need two correct? One for the front componenets, and one for the rears. I DON'T need one for the sub do I? Or should I get one anyway. (so three? that's getting $$$$)
The BLD is good, but I would try to hunt down an Audiocontrol Matrix or something like that. You can use the Front Left and Front Right signal and have that full range signal sent to all your outputs on the line driver. Much more simple than cutting up FR/FL, Sub, RR/RL or whatever.
Also with this line driver does he not need an amp that has balanced differential inputs anymore? Or should he still go with that kicker.
It's been said that if you're signal is strong enough (line-driver) then you wont pick up noise. I can't say for sure as I've never tried it, but a few of the regulars have said it works. The Kicker will be fine if he already has it, but if he'd just amp the fronts and sub and leave the rears alone...he could do a nicer 4-channel with more power. You can put all the power you want on the factory speakers...and they might sound a little better....but they won't get a ton louder or sound better like replacements. Their efficiency is already good.
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cacicgt7 (05-18-2012)
#13
Thanks so much guys! This has been a TON of help. I'll try to hunt down this Audiocontrol Matrix (is there another option if I can't find one of these)
He already has the kicker amp, so I'm just going to tell him to use it instead of returning it to be on the safe side.
BTW: Is there ANY point to upgrading the center speaker, or is he better off just turning it real low on the TL headunit and forgetting about it. Obviously we don't want it to cause a problem to anything else.
He already has the kicker amp, so I'm just going to tell him to use it instead of returning it to be on the safe side.
BTW: Is there ANY point to upgrading the center speaker, or is he better off just turning it real low on the TL headunit and forgetting about it. Obviously we don't want it to cause a problem to anything else.
#14
Edit: Would something like this work? Sending the signal from the H/U to this:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...SL-09ZISL.html
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