FEELER: Plug and play factory amp replacement?
#201
What for? You do know with today's amp, those are useless for the purpose of reserve power and stopping your lights from dimming....right? They are, however, very good at removing noise from the power supply, in your case, not an issue concerning subwoofer frequencies.
#205
Safety Car
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Thanks again
I am having a VERY HARD time finding 5 channel amps with the same watts RMS. Everything I find is 4x___ and 1x___ for a sub.
I also looked for a LOW power mono amp for the center speaker and can't find one
In this DIGITAL world with surround sound, you would think MANY places would offer 5 channel amps of equal power per channel.
Please let me know if you know what else can be done to keep the ELS 5.1 AC3 Digital surround sound. ALL I WANT IS MORE CLEAN POWER. Then I will replace ALL the speakers.
Thanks again
Merry Christ mas
I am having a VERY HARD time finding 5 channel amps with the same watts RMS. Everything I find is 4x___ and 1x___ for a sub.
I also looked for a LOW power mono amp for the center speaker and can't find one
In this DIGITAL world with surround sound, you would think MANY places would offer 5 channel amps of equal power per channel.
Please let me know if you know what else can be done to keep the ELS 5.1 AC3 Digital surround sound. ALL I WANT IS MORE CLEAN POWER. Then I will replace ALL the speakers.
Thanks again
Merry Christ mas
#206
Team Owner
Thanks again
I am having a VERY HARD time finding 5 channel amps with the same watts RMS. Everything I find is 4x___ and 1x___ for a sub.
I also looked for a LOW power mono amp for the center speaker and can't find one
In this DIGITAL world with surround sound, you would think MANY places would offer 5 channel amps of equal power per channel.
Please let me know if you know what else can be done to keep the ELS 5.1 AC3 Digital surround sound. ALL I WANT IS MORE CLEAN POWER. Then I will replace ALL the speakers.
Thanks again
Merry Christ mas
I am having a VERY HARD time finding 5 channel amps with the same watts RMS. Everything I find is 4x___ and 1x___ for a sub.
I also looked for a LOW power mono amp for the center speaker and can't find one
In this DIGITAL world with surround sound, you would think MANY places would offer 5 channel amps of equal power per channel.
Please let me know if you know what else can be done to keep the ELS 5.1 AC3 Digital surround sound. ALL I WANT IS MORE CLEAN POWER. Then I will replace ALL the speakers.
Thanks again
Merry Christ mas
Currently you have 6 channels. The midbass and tweeters are on one channel then the center, each rear, and the sub.
The only way I can see to keep true 5.1 surround is to keep it setup like this, meaning to run your aftermarket speakers on passive crossovers when you get them.
I would look for a Zed leviathan amp. 6 channels, all the same power, a very flexable crossover network, 150wx6@4ohms and 300wx6@2ohms. I had one for a while and it's a very nice amp. The biggest problem I had was it wouldn't fit under the seats.
I know of a guy on DIYMA that probably has one for sale for around $500, just don't get a first generation unless the turn on pop problem has been fixed. It would be a one amp solution for the whole system.
#207
Safety Car
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Thanks " I HATE CARS".
I already have a sub and amp. I will not use the factory sub, just the signal for my sub amp. So I am looking for a 5 channel.
5.1 is like a 6-channel.
Merry Christ mas
I already have a sub and amp. I will not use the factory sub, just the signal for my sub amp. So I am looking for a 5 channel.
5.1 is like a 6-channel.
Merry Christ mas
#209
Banned
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I thought i read somewhere that the stock sub has its own stock amp ?
What I'm wanting to do, is keep the center speaker, and the two tweeters running off of the stock amp (and the stock sub if it runs off of it too). Then add a 4 channel amp for the four 6.5" speakers which i will be upgrading to Polk Db651s's which are 4 ohms. I therefore feel i need more power going to those 4. The stock amp isn't going to be able to supply enough power. Will this work? What all would i have to do? How will i connect to the two amps? I don't know much about audio, so I'll probably have a local shop do it, but i wanna know what to tell them.
#210
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
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I don't think amplifying the front stage by 2 different amps is a good idea.
Also, no, the oem sub doesn't have it's own amp. You'd be better served using the oem amp to power the rear two for fill and do a serious amp for the front stage AND bridged rear channel to push a legit sub.
I am missing the center...but I'm not actually "missing" it. If you know what I mean...
Also, no, the oem sub doesn't have it's own amp. You'd be better served using the oem amp to power the rear two for fill and do a serious amp for the front stage AND bridged rear channel to push a legit sub.
I am missing the center...but I'm not actually "missing" it. If you know what I mean...
#213
So now that I've had this for a few months:
Passenger tweeter, driver side woofers (both) are blown. Amp still cuts out after 15 minutes of play at a level just above what the stock one did anyway. Has blown the radio fuse multiple times (the stock amp harness and radio use the same fuse, hope you didnt lose your code!).
HPF is on, and I've installed 12v electronics professionally for 6 years, I don't know everything, but I'm extremely well versed.
I really cannot recommend this particular mod. I'll be using the amp (mounted in the trunk with it's own wiring) with new speakers, so it's not a total loss, but as a "stock replacement/upgrade" it is does not work well in this vehicle.
You may be able to get away with putting this amp in the stock location with 4 ohm speakers and it's own power/ground wiring, but it's just plain not a great idea with 2ohm stocks and stock amp wiring.
Passenger tweeter, driver side woofers (both) are blown. Amp still cuts out after 15 minutes of play at a level just above what the stock one did anyway. Has blown the radio fuse multiple times (the stock amp harness and radio use the same fuse, hope you didnt lose your code!).
HPF is on, and I've installed 12v electronics professionally for 6 years, I don't know everything, but I'm extremely well versed.
I really cannot recommend this particular mod. I'll be using the amp (mounted in the trunk with it's own wiring) with new speakers, so it's not a total loss, but as a "stock replacement/upgrade" it is does not work well in this vehicle.
You may be able to get away with putting this amp in the stock location with 4 ohm speakers and it's own power/ground wiring, but it's just plain not a great idea with 2ohm stocks and stock amp wiring.
#215
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Is Uncald still on this forum? Seems like he hasn't been on in awhile. Also is there any update on any of this with the amp or fixes to the center speaker sound for Navi cars?
Why was the group buy thread closed?
Why was the group buy thread closed?
#216
Team Owner
He got mad when people asked simple questions like what frequency his ported boxes were tuned to and took his toys and went home. Apparently you're not allowed to question running the wrong impedance on an amp he sells or what the tuning frequency of an enclosure is which is a very common question.
#217
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So I'm guessing the PnP amp/harness is no longer available? It looked like a great thing for people wanting to change to aftermarket 4-ohm speakers and a sub set-up with keeping the stock headunit. Unless there's another viable replacement...
#218
Team Owner
As far as I know he's still making stuff for the Acuras, just not as active around here. You might try PMing him or using his e-mail.
#219
Racer
You could always just buy the amp and hook it up yourself. It's only $150 on amazon. $150 for a wiring harness is a little steep anyway, as I believe he was selling both for $300. It's a pretty decent amp. Its tiny so you can install it almost anywhere and it accepts balanced inputs so you wouldn't have to buy an LOC/Line driver/processor etc.
#220
The amp died =(
Basic mtx amp under the seat, signal/speakers tapped in the kick panel based off of instructions found in the forums, new speakers while I was at it (and 58sq ft of deadener).
Holy shit, what a difference, this amp is rated at 10 watts less, costs less, and is soooooo much louder and cleaner on proper speakers.
I implore all of you to just do it the right way, you wont regret it.
Basic mtx amp under the seat, signal/speakers tapped in the kick panel based off of instructions found in the forums, new speakers while I was at it (and 58sq ft of deadener).
Holy shit, what a difference, this amp is rated at 10 watts less, costs less, and is soooooo much louder and cleaner on proper speakers.
I implore all of you to just do it the right way, you wont regret it.
#222
Correct, this one (under the seat)http://www.mtx.com/mobile/products/s...iers/show.html
We've had quite a few issues with those little rf amps, even in "tame" installs.
P.S. the manual very clearly says you will have issues if there is less than 1 inch of airspace all around it. I certainly did. You cant put anywhere near the power that amp has available on stocks, and the amp doesnt like 2ohms at all
We've had quite a few issues with those little rf amps, even in "tame" installs.
P.S. the manual very clearly says you will have issues if there is less than 1 inch of airspace all around it. I certainly did. You cant put anywhere near the power that amp has available on stocks, and the amp doesnt like 2ohms at all
#224
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ock+amp+signal post 19 has pics and a link to the wire colors. To do an eq, just splice in rca's and run it to the eq, then from the eq to amp. You can buy male or female rca's with speaker wire leads to make life easy, then just install like a normal stereo.
#225
You'll lose the sub so a separate amp is needed if you want some low end. For the sub solution I bought all used stuff - uncald4 sealed enclosure, a JL 10w6 and JL XD600 amp. I had the installer add a remote level control on the steering column so I could play with the level depending on the source (highly recommended BTW).
I'm a home theater nut and I have a pretty nice audio setup for the house. I have a hard time justifying duplicating that level of fidelity in my car (i.e. my wife would kill me). So I wanted a decent, value oriented car audio upgrade. Does my TL system sound phenomenal? Nope. Does it sound really good for the amount of money I have in it? You bet!
I am not nearly as well versed in car audio as others who have weighed in on this PnP amp. And as they have mentioned, there are other avenues to take that can produce better results. But since my quotes for full upgrades that included voice prompts, processing, etc. were anywhere from $3500 - $5500, I decided on my current route. And I'm happy so far
#226
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I contacted Travis via email a couple months ago and got the PnP amp for around $280 (you have to ship the stock amp board to him). It's an easy and decent upgrade for users who have navi because the voice prompts are retained, although they come through the drivers front speaker (center channel is lost, but no biggie.) I ran it on the stock speakers for a few weeks (w/ All Pass on the amp it sounded decent) and then had Hybrid Audio speakers installed (Imagine + Mirus) to match the 4 ohm recommendation in the manual.
You'll lose the sub so a separate amp is needed if you want some low end. For the sub solution I bought all used stuff - uncald4 sealed enclosure, a JL 10w6 and JL XD600 amp. I had the installer add a remote level control on the steering column so I could play with the level depending on the source (highly recommended BTW).
I'm a home theater nut and I have a pretty nice audio setup for the house. I have a hard time justifying duplicating that level of fidelity in my car (i.e. my wife would kill me). So I wanted a decent, value oriented car audio upgrade. Does my TL system sound phenomenal? Nope. Does it sound really good for the amount of money I have in it? You bet!
I am not nearly as well versed in car audio as others who have weighed in on this PnP amp. And as they have mentioned, there are other avenues to take that can produce better results. But since my quotes for full upgrades that included voice prompts, processing, etc. were anywhere from $3500 - $5500, I decided on my current route. And I'm happy so far
You'll lose the sub so a separate amp is needed if you want some low end. For the sub solution I bought all used stuff - uncald4 sealed enclosure, a JL 10w6 and JL XD600 amp. I had the installer add a remote level control on the steering column so I could play with the level depending on the source (highly recommended BTW).
I'm a home theater nut and I have a pretty nice audio setup for the house. I have a hard time justifying duplicating that level of fidelity in my car (i.e. my wife would kill me). So I wanted a decent, value oriented car audio upgrade. Does my TL system sound phenomenal? Nope. Does it sound really good for the amount of money I have in it? You bet!
I am not nearly as well versed in car audio as others who have weighed in on this PnP amp. And as they have mentioned, there are other avenues to take that can produce better results. But since my quotes for full upgrades that included voice prompts, processing, etc. were anywhere from $3500 - $5500, I decided on my current route. And I'm happy so far
The PnP amp is a good idea, but isn't what it was made out to be. Most people that upgrade this will eventually upgrade the sub and then what....another amp. If you're going to have an amp in the trunk or under the seats, then might as well pick up an amp that isn't just barely better than the factory amp. Again...not trying to attack you, but just putting the idea out there for new comers that are looking into upgrading. If you think you'll upgrade down the road, look into a 5-channel. You will be able to retain the nav voice, be able to power a component set or fronts/rears PLUS a sub. Or look into a few smaller amps. I feel like this idea was only geared to space saving, but in todays market there are TONS of amps that can fit under the seats and multiple other places that one would never see.
Any pics TomlinsonJ? How are you liking the Hybrid's?
#227
Good to hear you're happy, but DAMN!...where are you getting $5,500 quotes for a setup that includes processing and retains nav?? I'm at about 1/4th of that and have that + some. And it can be done even cheaper quite easily.
<cut>
Any pics TomlinsonJ? How are you liking the Hybrid's?
<cut>
Any pics TomlinsonJ? How are you liking the Hybrid's?
That $5500 quote was from a pretty nice shop out of town recommended by a friend. After talking about my home listening environment and listening to some speakers, they emailed me a quote. I was shocked. I was hoping that figure would cover my TL and Pilot, but alas no, lol. It included full dynomat, HD900/5, Bit One, Audison Voce, sub enclosure, 13.5" shallow mount sub etc. at full retail plus labor. As for yours being at 1/4 of this cost, I'm guessing you installed all your own gear? I know my limits when it comes to car electronics and the birds nest of wires, trimming and such, plus I don't feel too comfy with pulling off door panels, consoles, etc. Home theater? I'm all DIY for that. Ran 5,000 ft of cable while my house is being built plus A/V distribution, IR repeaters, multi zone audio, etc. But I'll leave the car stuff to the people who do it day in and day out.
No pics yet, but I'll post some soon. I have about $1300 for everything installed. As for the HAT speakers? I'm very pleased with their ipod performance, but XM is only OK - better on some channels so I consider the source content is the issue. Sub with control is great though.
James
#228
Team Owner
I contacted Travis via email a couple months ago and got the PnP amp for around $280 (you have to ship the stock amp board to him). It's an easy and decent upgrade for users who have navi because the voice prompts are retained, although they come through the drivers front speaker (center channel is lost, but no biggie.) I ran it on the stock speakers for a few weeks (w/ All Pass on the amp it sounded decent) and then had Hybrid Audio speakers installed (Imagine + Mirus) to match the 4 ohm recommendation in the manual.
You'll lose the sub so a separate amp is needed if you want some low end. For the sub solution I bought all used stuff - uncald4 sealed enclosure, a JL 10w6 and JL XD600 amp. I had the installer add a remote level control on the steering column so I could play with the level depending on the source (highly recommended BTW).
I'm a home theater nut and I have a pretty nice audio setup for the house. I have a hard time justifying duplicating that level of fidelity in my car (i.e. my wife would kill me). So I wanted a decent, value oriented car audio upgrade. Does my TL system sound phenomenal? Nope. Does it sound really good for the amount of money I have in it? You bet!
I am not nearly as well versed in car audio as others who have weighed in on this PnP amp. And as they have mentioned, there are other avenues to take that can produce better results. But since my quotes for full upgrades that included voice prompts, processing, etc. were anywhere from $3500 - $5500, I decided on my current route. And I'm happy so far
You'll lose the sub so a separate amp is needed if you want some low end. For the sub solution I bought all used stuff - uncald4 sealed enclosure, a JL 10w6 and JL XD600 amp. I had the installer add a remote level control on the steering column so I could play with the level depending on the source (highly recommended BTW).
I'm a home theater nut and I have a pretty nice audio setup for the house. I have a hard time justifying duplicating that level of fidelity in my car (i.e. my wife would kill me). So I wanted a decent, value oriented car audio upgrade. Does my TL system sound phenomenal? Nope. Does it sound really good for the amount of money I have in it? You bet!
I am not nearly as well versed in car audio as others who have weighed in on this PnP amp. And as they have mentioned, there are other avenues to take that can produce better results. But since my quotes for full upgrades that included voice prompts, processing, etc. were anywhere from $3500 - $5500, I decided on my current route. And I'm happy so far
I didn't realize the first time reading this that you had a separate sub amp. You could have gotten the JL XD700/5, powered all aftermarket speakers, and left the stock amp in place for the center. It would have been a one amp solution, sounded better, and cost less.
This isn't a dig at you, it kind of makes me mad that Travis has been on here all this time, charging outrageous prices and IMO sending people down the wrong road. If you have navi and wanted to keep the center, he should have steered you down a different path rather than selling an amp for double it's retail price.
The 10W6 would do great on only 300w if the uncald4 enclosures were not so small.
As for XM, sound quality is awful. No system will sound good on XM, that's why I will never get another subscription. The source material has to be good for a good system to shine. I can't stand overly compressed music. There are some CDs I can't even listen to due to compression. I can listen to old stuff like Eric Clapton that has flaws in the recordings but it sounds very good and dynamic. I can listen to some modern music that's overly compressed and there's no amount of eq or tuning that can ever make it sound good.
#229
This isn't a dig at you, it kind of makes me mad that Travis has been on here all this time, charging outrageous prices and IMO sending people down the wrong road. If you have navi and wanted to keep the center, he should have steered you down a different path rather than selling an amp for double it's retail price.
#230
OMGWTF4THGENTL
iTrader: (2)
Anyone else having trouble with thier PnP amp...?
I purchased one of those Rockford amps for my 2006 TL a few months back.
It's been sitting in the garage, just got around to installing it today.
So... after fighting the old amp out (that top bolt is a muther)... I
plugged it up. Spliced the red turn on wire to the yellow wire - and
fired it up. It worked great... I messed with the gain a little, rocked out for a few songs, then went to mount it in place.
Powered down, mounted it up, put everything back together and opened a beer.
Sat down in the drivers seat to demo my handiwork... no sound.
no sound on any input...
fack...
Tear it back apart again... first thing i note is there is no blue light on (no amp power).
unplug and replug everything and try again, no success. tear tape off
turn on wire, inspect... no way it's that as I spliced and soldered it
in.
remove amp, reinstall stock amp... sound works. I can deduce no fuse issues.
Therefore something must have happened to the amp in the 30 minutes it
was plugged in.
Really frustrated.
Any ideas for other ways to op test?
There's nothing really special about my setup either. All speaker
replaced with simple infinity kappa series... that's it.
I sent an email to Travis, sure hope he stands behind it.
I purchased one of those Rockford amps for my 2006 TL a few months back.
It's been sitting in the garage, just got around to installing it today.
So... after fighting the old amp out (that top bolt is a muther)... I
plugged it up. Spliced the red turn on wire to the yellow wire - and
fired it up. It worked great... I messed with the gain a little, rocked out for a few songs, then went to mount it in place.
Powered down, mounted it up, put everything back together and opened a beer.
Sat down in the drivers seat to demo my handiwork... no sound.
no sound on any input...
fack...
Tear it back apart again... first thing i note is there is no blue light on (no amp power).
unplug and replug everything and try again, no success. tear tape off
turn on wire, inspect... no way it's that as I spliced and soldered it
in.
remove amp, reinstall stock amp... sound works. I can deduce no fuse issues.
Therefore something must have happened to the amp in the 30 minutes it
was plugged in.
Really frustrated.
Any ideas for other ways to op test?
There's nothing really special about my setup either. All speaker
replaced with simple infinity kappa series... that's it.
I sent an email to Travis, sure hope he stands behind it.
#234
takin care of Business in
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aaah Jer beat me to it....
i would start with the internal fuse....seems like there is an issue with the amp as the stock amp is working with the same connectors....
so i would start up with the fuses and then make sure all the connectors are properly connected....
i would start with the internal fuse....seems like there is an issue with the amp as the stock amp is working with the same connectors....
so i would start up with the fuses and then make sure all the connectors are properly connected....
#235
Drifting
iTrader: (13)
The splice to the yellow wire may be your problem. Mine still works fine with that power tap, but there may be issues with using that method. Try tapping fuse #32 on the drivers footwell fusebox for your power (Check all fuses there, too). You have to run a wire across the car, but it may be a better source.
I hope you get it working. We are not that far from each other, if you need assistance.
I hope you get it working. We are not that far from each other, if you need assistance.
Last edited by dwb993; 05-29-2012 at 12:32 PM.
#236
Coolest A-zine Member
iTrader: (1)
There are still amps that are extremely small & easy to hide, don't really require that much more work, 4 or 5 channels and will give you 3x the power... PLUS be able to run at multiple impedance's. I do understand if your amp went dead, etc but for power or any sort of gain...I just dont see if happening and I'm not sure how it has been lately, but at first everyone was in for "more power".
#238
Three Wheelin'