if it makes a big difference Im definitely in...

 

^ It should make a noticeable difference. "BIG"...is up to you and your ears ya know. I'm just wondering how you take care of the center and sub..

 

Very interesting. I can't take how weak my stock system sounds with Isimple installed. How there can be that much of a difference from dvd-a to ipod is beyond me, then again I'm no audiophile.

 

I think an aftermarket sub amp is a must. Too tired to back and read it but I think he mentioned this is for people that have upgraded subs and have a weak stock front end.

 

Yeah true. This would be a nice little upgrade with a small 10" in the trunk or something. Maybe he could do his corner loaded box with this amp. Full setup with basically no space loss. I'm sure a TON of people would just on that for $450 or so Uncald4. Just sayin...

 

That would work but you would have to lose the rear speakers to run off of this single amp. Or you could throw a 15" IB and have some serious output with the rear channels bridged lol.

 

I just meant he could do a package deal and the buyer would still buy a sub amp for whatever sub he puts In there. You'd basically only have 1 visible thing and you could mount that in multiple places w/o it being seen

 

I wish you could replace the stock amp with this and this covers the center and the sub....but still its a great deal....

 

Having dove headfirst into our sound system, I'd be curious about a few things. 1st, the factory amp gave me horrible noise when I took signal after it, so I had to bypass.

BUT, my other questions would be:

Factory amp coming out would mean no signal being provided for center/sub/rear speakers, right? I guess this would give the option of the RCA from the rockford to piggy back to a rear amp (4 channel you could run 2 channels for rear and bridge final 2 for sub).

BUT, when I tried to take signal direct from headunit, signal was way too weak for the amp. I needed to run to a line driver first. How does this amp get usable signal since oem amp is gone?

That said, direct plug and play replacement with some good wattage would be awesome for those looking to run a decent front set with a sub.. Nicely done!

 

Good point, I'm not sure of this amp can accept a balanced signal. If not, you'd need an Audiocontrol Matrix or something to convert and act as line driver.

As far as your other questions, 4-channels would likely handle the fronts ad rears, leaving the user to take care of center (if you have nav.) and sub

 

Or ditch the rears and use one channel for the center and one for an efficient sub. 75w on a 15" sub infinite baffle will make a lot of noise.

 

^^^coming form someone pushing 1500 rms to 2 subs, that blows my mind.

Trunk, but the whole point of what he's saying he may sell is to put in a 2 channel that will take the space and place of the oem amp. I mean, if all you care about is the size that's fine, but seems like it ends up eliminating a lot of other things we need to get a 2 channel amp in the footwell.

I could see this being a better location for a prewired/plug and play unit that allows some tuning ability, and signal boosting to send some nice clean, boosted and usable signal to the rear to use your own aftermarket amps. Then it'd be your choice if you do a 4, 5 or 6 channel to have all the speakers you want.

 

You should hear what 150w to each 15 sounds like. It flexes the roof and makes your hair move. Efficiency is great.

 

Tell me about it...
Maybe one day I'll go that route, if my Audiobahns were meant for an IB application, this would be done already.

 

Interested.

 

Very interested in this. Any combo deal for this and the sub enclosure?

 

Unfortunately after checking Rockford's website they list this amp as not being bridgeable. I thought about bridging it for the front end but no dice..

 

Stay tuned! I'll have more info very shortly.

We've brought in our test vehicles and they are performing very well. And the drivers are very pleased with the volume and sound quality. No noise and no issues.

I'm pulling in my 2007 TL-S in the next few minutes as a final test to see if we can force it to fail.

 

interested

 

why is the price so high? online they are $179 shipped... $100 more just for custom connections?

 

$100 for a bolt in system is not a bad price. I have no idea if it's "just custom connections" or if the prices you're seeing are authorized or not but $100 is not bad for a plug and play deal.

 

I concur^^^

 

subscribed

 

Also in and subscribed.

 

Thank you everyone for your input. I've received a pile of email, PM's and phone calls about this. Thank you for your patience as well. I've got a lot of time and money in getting this right.

This amp has proven to be a huge hit and works wonders in this car. The sound difference in both clarity and volume is better than expected. There is no whine or other noise. There are no issues with low impedance shut-down.

I've got this amp in my TL right now. I'll put a beat down on it for a few days. In the mean time we are discussing the connectors in the plug and play harness. Looks like we'll ditch the amp core return idea as it's a PITA to reuse those female plugs.

Things to mention on the plug and play harness....

• RCA pigtail for subwoofer option
• RCA pigtail for center channel option
• Power lead pigtail for remote turn on output

I have pics of the amp with plug and play harness. Will post in the AM. Gotta get back to MNF!

 

Id be all in if I could get a solution with center and sub as well.

 

me too.

 

wasnt it posted for $297 or something like that earlier in the thread??

 

subscribed

 

I don't know much about audio... but if this improves the sound of the factory system then I'm all for it.

But if I wanted an extra 10 or 12" sub in the future, what else would be required to run the sub?

 

^ processor or audiocontrol unit (unless you want post amp but thats just bleh). Plus another amp. Plus amp kit

 

You don't need a processor, an LOC will suffice.

 

Subscribed. $300 is a bit steep, IMHO, but if it's truly worth it, I'd be in.

Not digging the loss of center channel, though.

 

With this harness you won't need an LOC. You would plug your RCA and remote turn on right in. To add a subwoofer amp I mean.


New pics....

 

butt connectors in picture are from where you had cut it previously and reconnected the wires, right?

If so...looks pretty clean. I'm still not sure I understand how this will work with the signal coming straight from the radio (since it's pretty low).

Also ,would the plan be to run just the front 2 speakers? Or will this provide sound to all 4 interior speakers? If so, if all you're losing is center channel and you end up with 2 RCA's to piggy back to a rear amp for a sub.

This is definitely a VIABLE option. The OEM amp runs about $230 IIRC at the 20% markup at the dealer. So for 70 more, to have that much more power and that much cleaner install and sound and SPACE!!! I can dig it.

 

Let's play 'nutty' for a moment.

Any chance there'd be an option that the 4 channels power the tweets and mids for the front independently? I'd LOVE to juice the shit out of my FS and kill the rearfill.

 

I'm sure...the front tweets/door all run off 1 channel each from factory. It's definitely doable.

 

There is. The connection is behind the glovebox.

 

Oh, I know it's DO-ABLE, but if we're paying for a PnP harness (which we would be), I'd like to know if this would be a possible configuration we could choose from...

Curious to see how this pans out, I'm on the trigger for some Ultimate Pedals right now, might have to hold off on that...

 

Thank you rockstar. I have a JL Audio 4 channel and mono block amp installed so had to put my connections back to stock to install and run this setup.

This plug and play setup will power the dash tweeters, front door speakers and rear deck speakers. The pigtails are for sub and center like you said.

DeathMetal... Custom options of this will be available. In most of our personal or demo cars we run a very strong front stage and a nice sub. No rears or low powered rears. However, when your getting into speakers that require bi-amping like that, this is not a proper option. You should really be looking at a bigger trunk mount amp with more power and clarity.