FEELER: Plug and play factory amp replacement?
Looking into upgrading my front and rear speaker. What will be the best replacement speakers to go with my PnP amp. It's coming soon (yahoo). Speakers that drop right in not to much modifying.
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,249
Likes: 20,202
both sides of the coin are appreciated, trust me. Like you ni3 said, he has no stake in the game...
just from seeing his other threads/posts...i KNOW he's one of the leading authorities on stereo on the site.
just from seeing his other threads/posts...i KNOW he's one of the leading authorities on stereo on the site.
Hey guys, I registered here just to throw in some info for anyone thinking of doing this. I personally just put this amp in my 08 tl-s. I've worked in one of the nicer stereo shops in the area for about 5 years, so I know my way around the product and wiring.
The amp does fit, it does work. It also makes an amazing difference.
If hooked up to the factory power/ground, it easily blows the (20a radio) fuse. Have your radio code card ready.
Gains must be kept low to prevent bottoming out, the stocks handle the power badly. There is no adjustable highpass, just a switched 80hz.
It does overheat and clip out. I keep pushing the gains lower and lower trying to stop it, all I've been able to do is delay it for about 25-30 mins. I'm probably 1/4 lower than where I could be, 1/8 lower than where I had to be to stop bottoming out. I'm just going to run the wires to the trunk and do a normal install with aftermarket speakers. This half-step upgrade is not good enough for me, but take that with a grain of salt, I've had a lot of high-end setups.
Like mentioned before, you lose the center and sub (but my sub was already upgraded to a nice Boston Acoustics SPG setup so it was a non-issue).
p.s. there is a thread on the forum with all the wire colors to do it yourself.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/details-stock-tl-amp-558485/
post 27/29
The amp does fit, it does work. It also makes an amazing difference.
If hooked up to the factory power/ground, it easily blows the (20a radio) fuse. Have your radio code card ready.
Gains must be kept low to prevent bottoming out, the stocks handle the power badly. There is no adjustable highpass, just a switched 80hz.
It does overheat and clip out. I keep pushing the gains lower and lower trying to stop it, all I've been able to do is delay it for about 25-30 mins. I'm probably 1/4 lower than where I could be, 1/8 lower than where I had to be to stop bottoming out. I'm just going to run the wires to the trunk and do a normal install with aftermarket speakers. This half-step upgrade is not good enough for me, but take that with a grain of salt, I've had a lot of high-end setups.
Like mentioned before, you lose the center and sub (but my sub was already upgraded to a nice Boston Acoustics SPG setup so it was a non-issue).
p.s. there is a thread on the forum with all the wire colors to do it yourself.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/details-stock-tl-amp-558485/
post 27/29
This is one of those cases where everyone is a little right.
Yes, you can plug and play the amp and improve sound. It fits, it works, it doesn't blow up.
To answer THTL question, no, there is no engine noise (signal path is short and pretty good quality in this vehicle). The little "static"/"white noise" you could hear when on AUX with the volume up (or during silence on other inputs) is still there, and amplified, so it is louder. There is noise, but it is not engine noise.
As for niebur3, he's off a bit on what he's saying but has the right idea, but I'm not about to debate acoustic theory. The amp is shutting down from thermal induced clipping. The limited air and low impedance are probably BOTH to blame. The speakers can't handle anywhere near what this amp can put out (even with the built in 80hz x-over), but even at relatively low output there are heat issues. If they could take the full power, I'm sure the amp would be roasting itself up pretty quickly.
Having done this, I would not recommend it for anyone. It works but is definitely not the right way of doing it. I'm changing out all the speakers for good quality 4-ohm aftermarkets and putting the amp in the trunk where it will have airflow.
I don't know which is causing the issue specifically, but I feel like neither is helping. Putting this into audio rookie's rides will be nothing besides trouble.
Yes, you can plug and play the amp and improve sound. It fits, it works, it doesn't blow up.
To answer THTL question, no, there is no engine noise (signal path is short and pretty good quality in this vehicle). The little "static"/"white noise" you could hear when on AUX with the volume up (or during silence on other inputs) is still there, and amplified, so it is louder. There is noise, but it is not engine noise.
As for niebur3, he's off a bit on what he's saying but has the right idea, but I'm not about to debate acoustic theory. The amp is shutting down from thermal induced clipping. The limited air and low impedance are probably BOTH to blame. The speakers can't handle anywhere near what this amp can put out (even with the built in 80hz x-over), but even at relatively low output there are heat issues. If they could take the full power, I'm sure the amp would be roasting itself up pretty quickly.
Having done this, I would not recommend it for anyone. It works but is definitely not the right way of doing it. I'm changing out all the speakers for good quality 4-ohm aftermarkets and putting the amp in the trunk where it will have airflow.
I don't know which is causing the issue specifically, but I feel like neither is helping. Putting this into audio rookie's rides will be nothing besides trouble.
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,249
Likes: 20,202
but if you're going to be running the wiring to the trunk and upgrading speakers...would this particular amp still be your choice? for it's size, it's great...and fits in oem location, but once you take that benefit out of the equation, I think there are many other options for amps out there if you're willing to run a complex (seemingly) more involved system.
It sounds like this is exactly what Jerry was talking about, shutting down due to improper impedance. Impedance is not constant and can change drastically over the frequency range so maybe some other "2ohm" speakers would work, I don't know. It sounds like this amp should be coupled with a component upgrade as well.
I think it fits the bill great for someone who wants a plug and play deal without running a bunch of wires. Once you get away from this plug and play/factory location I'm sure there are many better suited amps.
I think it fits the bill great for someone who wants a plug and play deal without running a bunch of wires. Once you get away from this plug and play/factory location I'm sure there are many better suited amps.
Distortion is what blows speakers. Its always better to get an amp that puts out more power RMS from 20hz-20khz then the speakers can handle. BUT you have to be careful with the volume. I AM VERY interested in an amp. I LOVED the quality of the 5.1 TL system, but definately needed alot more CLEAN watts RMS.
[QUOTE=quakerroatmeal;13301555]Yes you'd just ditch the LOC. And you should be able to still control the sub with the stock head-unit because the rockford aftermarket amp is basically the stock amp with more power. You'll definitely notice a different. Aftermarket speakers don't do justice until you amp them.[/QUOTE
Thats a FACT !!! I put in all new High end POLK AUDIO speakers in my 2006 TL NAV and it didnt do a thing to db gain. Clearer for sure, but lower db inside of car. The OEM TL speakers are very efficient. BUT I always wanted more CLEAN watts for the 4 main speakers. The center has enough power, and I dont use the rear sub--I build my own sub. I am VERY interested IF THE 5.1 Digital surround sound ISNT changed. ALL I want is MORE CLEAN power to the 4 main speakers.
Thats a FACT !!! I put in all new High end POLK AUDIO speakers in my 2006 TL NAV and it didnt do a thing to db gain. Clearer for sure, but lower db inside of car. The OEM TL speakers are very efficient. BUT I always wanted more CLEAN watts for the 4 main speakers. The center has enough power, and I dont use the rear sub--I build my own sub. I am VERY interested IF THE 5.1 Digital surround sound ISNT changed. ALL I want is MORE CLEAN power to the 4 main speakers.
JD TL-S, Of course you saw a DB loss when you switched to Polk's, they're twice the impedance, so half the power.
Heat blows most speakers. Physical destruction from overpowering is the other common way (bottoming out usually, occasionally tearing/triple joint destruction). Speakers turn something like 94% of the energy put through them into heat at a 90db sensitivity. Distortion is a way to lower the cooling efficiency of a speaker.
Rockstar, I doubt a hole will make a difference. My kickpanel is fully off at this point and it made no difference.
And yes, I'm using this cheap, small, effecient amp to power whatever speakers I go with. Have you seen the birthsheets on these things? The frequency response is amazing, and at RMS (84x4 on mine) the THD is only .082%. It's better than the Boston Acoustics 475 I was considering.
Heat blows most speakers. Physical destruction from overpowering is the other common way (bottoming out usually, occasionally tearing/triple joint destruction). Speakers turn something like 94% of the energy put through them into heat at a 90db sensitivity. Distortion is a way to lower the cooling efficiency of a speaker.
Rockstar, I doubt a hole will make a difference. My kickpanel is fully off at this point and it made no difference.
And yes, I'm using this cheap, small, effecient amp to power whatever speakers I go with. Have you seen the birthsheets on these things? The frequency response is amazing, and at RMS (84x4 on mine) the THD is only .082%. It's better than the Boston Acoustics 475 I was considering.
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,249
Likes: 20,202
Thanks Ray...
Actually, I'm the poster that was questioning the point of putting a hole down there.
I think this is a good solution for people that are not looking to get too deep into installing a system but want a little extra kick. To me, if you're going to upgrade, I'd go big.
Actually, I'm the poster that was questioning the point of putting a hole down there.
I think this is a good solution for people that are not looking to get too deep into installing a system but want a little extra kick. To me, if you're going to upgrade, I'd go big.
I'd go big too, but I was hoping for something to hold me over while I save up for some new audio toys. This would be an awesome upgrade if the amp didn't clip out on the 2 ohm load. To prevent it from happening you need to run it at such a low level it almost isn't even worth the hassle and cost.
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,249
Likes: 20,202
So I've read...
but most of the people that are physically ignoring the math and what SHOULD be a weakness seem to be enjoying it plenty. Maybe get it and rock it for a year and when it's time to upgrade, sell it to someone else?
but most of the people that are physically ignoring the math and what SHOULD be a weakness seem to be enjoying it plenty. Maybe get it and rock it for a year and when it's time to upgrade, sell it to someone else?
THANKYOU VERY MUCH !!! So basically it KEEPS the Digital 5.1 OEM system but replaces the LOW power factory anp for the 4 main speakers, and the harness will have RCA phono outs for a center channel amp and a sub amp. Is this correct ??? IF SO, I WANT IT BIG TIME. My last TL Nav had AWESOME sound after I put in a subwoofer, but the OEM power was WEAK on the main speakers. The center should be fine without another amp. And I already have 2 DIAMOND subs, a 1200 watt HIFONICS sub amp and cap. CANT WAIT !!! That way I can add a sub and sub amp without the cheesy high level adapter, CORRECT ??? Thankyou Very much !!!! AWESOME !!!
Thank you rockstar. I have a JL Audio 4 channel and mono block amp installed so had to put my connections back to stock to install and run this setup.
This plug and play setup will power the dash tweeters, front door speakers and rear deck speakers. The pigtails are for sub and center like you said.
DeathMetal... Custom options of this will be available. In most of our personal or demo cars we run a very strong front stage and a nice sub. No rears or low powered rears. However, when your getting into speakers that require bi-amping like that, this is not a proper option. You should really be looking at a bigger trunk mount amp with more power and clarity.
This plug and play setup will power the dash tweeters, front door speakers and rear deck speakers. The pigtails are for sub and center like you said.
DeathMetal... Custom options of this will be available. In most of our personal or demo cars we run a very strong front stage and a nice sub. No rears or low powered rears. However, when your getting into speakers that require bi-amping like that, this is not a proper option. You should really be looking at a bigger trunk mount amp with more power and clarity.
After reading a lot of this thread, I would rather have a 5 channel amp mounted under the passenger seat. Which means I want to just buy the harness for wires, RCA for sub amp, and of course the center speaker. -5 channel amp under seat. Maybe you can offer 2 packages. ???
I guess this little amp could be used for the 4 main interior channels, and buy a small mono amp and mount it under front passenger seat for the center speaker.
You did say the harness has RCA Phono plug outputs for a center and sub amp, Correct ??? Is the center speaker 2 ohms ? Maybe just buy quality 4 ohm Polk Audio component 5.25" 2-ways and be done with this low ohm problem. But still have the center speaker maybe also 2 ohms. Why not offer a 5 channel amp that mounts under the front seat and just replace all speakers with 4 ohm speakers. EASY, SIMPLE. Then choose what sub and sub amp you want in the trunk. I have all this anyway. I want the harness, a 5 channel amp !!! And I will just replace all the speakers with 4 ohm speakers. Problem solved. ??? OR JUST SELL ME THE WIRING HARNESS. I will get my own 5 channel amp and mount it myself. Thanks for all your hard work. This is what I want, I hope you can provide this option. GOD BLESS and have a wonderful weekend
You did say the harness has RCA Phono plug outputs for a center and sub amp, Correct ??? Is the center speaker 2 ohms ? Maybe just buy quality 4 ohm Polk Audio component 5.25" 2-ways and be done with this low ohm problem. But still have the center speaker maybe also 2 ohms. Why not offer a 5 channel amp that mounts under the front seat and just replace all speakers with 4 ohm speakers. EASY, SIMPLE. Then choose what sub and sub amp you want in the trunk. I have all this anyway. I want the harness, a 5 channel amp !!! And I will just replace all the speakers with 4 ohm speakers. Problem solved. ??? OR JUST SELL ME THE WIRING HARNESS. I will get my own 5 channel amp and mount it myself. Thanks for all your hard work. This is what I want, I hope you can provide this option. GOD BLESS and have a wonderful weekend
I am VERY CURIOUS whats going on with this. I really appreciate all the work you have done for us on this issue.
Please let me know what you can do as far as a wire harness from the OEM system so I can mount a 5-channel amp under the passenger seat. I want to KEEP the 5.1 digital surround sound, BUT add clean power.
Thanks Again
GOD BLESS ALL
Please let me know what you can do as far as a wire harness from the OEM system so I can mount a 5-channel amp under the passenger seat. I want to KEEP the 5.1 digital surround sound, BUT add clean power.
Thanks Again

GOD BLESS ALL
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So I would need a 1 channel amp for a center. HMMM ??? I dont want to loose the center and Digital 5.1 OEM surround. I already have 2 subs, a box, and amp/cap. Just the 1 channel amp for the center bothers me. I would rather get a 5 channel amp for the main 5 speakers and add my own sub amp. Will you sell just the wire harness ??? So I can buy a 5 channel amp and just mount it under a seat ??? That sounds better to me. And like others said, I could still get to the amp for adjusting.
After reading a lot of this thread, I would rather have a 5 channel amp mounted under the passenger seat. Which means I want to just buy the harness for wires, RCA for sub amp, and of course the center speaker. -5 channel amp under seat. Maybe you can offer 2 packages. ???
After reading a lot of this thread, I would rather have a 5 channel amp mounted under the passenger seat. Which means I want to just buy the harness for wires, RCA for sub amp, and of course the center speaker. -5 channel amp under seat. Maybe you can offer 2 packages. ???
We will probably make a plug and play amp bypass harness.
I want a replacement amp to keep the OEM system exactly the same. Just more power. Down the road I will replace all the interior speakers and dissconnect the rear OEM sub and run my own subs and amp that I already have.
Please let me know what you will and can do .
Thankyou. Merry Christmas. GOD BLESS ALL
Finally found what I am looking for. a 5-channel amp made for digital surround sound in a car.
Check it out @ www.carstereomall.com
Go to product reviews for ALPINE MRA-F350.
CEA Rated.
50 watts RMS x 5 at 0.08 THD from 20hz-20khz into 4 ohms.
Also checkout MOBILE-ONE AUTO SOUND.
This is what I AM TALKING ABOUT !!!!!
Why take away the AWESOME ELS Digital surround sound ???
Once you have heard a DVD-AUDIO disc you WILL UNDERSTAND
God Bless
Merry Christmas
Jesus is the reason for the season
Hallelujah
Check it out @ www.carstereomall.com
Go to product reviews for ALPINE MRA-F350.
CEA Rated.
50 watts RMS x 5 at 0.08 THD from 20hz-20khz into 4 ohms.
Also checkout MOBILE-ONE AUTO SOUND.
This is what I AM TALKING ABOUT !!!!!
Why take away the AWESOME ELS Digital surround sound ???
Once you have heard a DVD-AUDIO disc you WILL UNDERSTAND
God Bless

Merry Christmas

Jesus is the reason for the season

Hallelujah
Finally found what I am looking for. a 5-channel amp made for digital surround sound in a car.
Check it out @ www.carstereomall.com
Go to product reviews for ALPINE MRA-F350.
CEA Rated.
50 watts RMS x 5 at 0.08 THD from 20hz-20khz into 4 ohms.
Also checkout MOBILE-ONE AUTO SOUND.
This is what I AM TALKING ABOUT !!!!!
Why take away the AWESOME ELS Digital surround sound ???
Once you have heard a DVD-AUDIO disc you WILL UNDERSTAND
God Bless
Merry Christmas
Jesus is the reason for the season
Hallelujah
Check it out @ www.carstereomall.com
Go to product reviews for ALPINE MRA-F350.
CEA Rated.
50 watts RMS x 5 at 0.08 THD from 20hz-20khz into 4 ohms.
Also checkout MOBILE-ONE AUTO SOUND.
This is what I AM TALKING ABOUT !!!!!
Why take away the AWESOME ELS Digital surround sound ???
Once you have heard a DVD-AUDIO disc you WILL UNDERSTAND
God Bless

Merry Christmas

Jesus is the reason for the season

Hallelujah

I decided to take this route because DVD-As are so hard to find and expensive. Otherwise I would've upgraded speakers and added an amp and called it a day.
I agree, if DVD-A were widely available I would never have added a processor. IMO, true 5.1 is better than aftermarket processors.
I decided to take this route because DVD-As are so hard to find and expensive. Otherwise I would've upgraded speakers and added an amp and called it a day.
I decided to take this route because DVD-As are so hard to find and expensive. Otherwise I would've upgraded speakers and added an amp and called it a day.
Its ALWAYS better marketing if you cater to all needs and wants. Maybe most dont want the center channel, thats their choice, but some do, and thats just smart marketing.
Merry Christmas






