Amp Wiring thru Firewall

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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 08:17 AM
  #1  
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Amp Wiring thru Firewall

Where is the best spot to get a power wire throuth the firewall. I am installing two MB Quart 12 inch subs in my trunk.
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 08:46 AM
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The same spot I did my 03 Accord, 04 Accord, 05 TL and now 06 TL... hehe

If you look on driver side inside the car, and look up, you see a rubber spot that a thick wire comes in... (You have to remove the plastic thing under the dash as it will be blocking your view...) But after that if you look up to the left a little you should see it... It will have some of the firewall stuff around it you may have to remove but I just punched a small hole in it and let the wire strech it the reset of the size so it was nice and tight... And it comes out under the hood under the strut on driver side...

Dont have any pics, sorry, but you will see. Its easy to get too on both side... I pushed my wire from the inside out once I had a small hole started, than went under hood and reached down and grabbed.


Hope that helps.
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 11:51 PM
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If you look on driver side inside the car, and look up, you see a rubber spot that a thick wire comes in... (You have to remove the plastic thing under the dash as it will be blocking your view...) But after that if you look up to the left a little you should see it..

Can you elaborate a little on this, it just doesn't seem clear. Do you mean we have to take out the panel below the steering column? Or the whole panel below the dash? (The panel that houses the power mirror/VSA switch) Is it maybe easier to find tracing back from the engine bay? What other wires travel through that rubebr spot? I'm thinking maybe wires to the fusebox?-
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 08:17 AM
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It sounds like all you need to remove is enough to get a look at the firewall. From there, you should be able to see it.
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 10:20 AM
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Not the panel that powers mirror but the panel below that. It should have a black piece that goes to the front of the car to the panel with the VSA switch.
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 11:19 AM
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 01:27 PM
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Refer to this thread...


https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/questions-adding-sub-amp-120614/

Deathtotoasters
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 12:41 AM
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I can't see where you're pointing......can you use some arrows maybe?
Jkidding! Thanks for the pic, now I know I can find it.
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 01:35 AM
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PPLAPW

Same pic I was thinking about when I read this thread.
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Old Nov 22, 2006 | 06:51 PM
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From: Wilmington, NC
Thanks for the info

Thanks for the info. I plan on pulling the existing sub and running the speaker wires through a loc. Can I use the remote lead from the existing sub amp? I'll use a 400x2 Quart amp. Can't wait!
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Old Nov 22, 2006 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by mmasongo
Thanks for the info. I plan on pulling the existing sub and running the speaker wires through a loc. Can I use the remote lead from the existing sub amp? I'll use a 400x2 Quart amp. Can't wait!
The stock remote turn on is only 9v if you need 12v it will not work
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 03:57 PM
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If you have TL with navi, use the power lead in the wiring harness for the navi-DVD unit in the trunk.
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Old Dec 3, 2006 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by mmasongo
Where is the best spot to get a power wire throuth the firewall. I am installing two MB Quart 12 inch subs in my trunk.
I couldn't find an easy way, so I drilled a hole. I measured from many different reference points and found an ideal spot. I inserted a small grommet and it is as tight as the factory wiring looms.

If anyone needs to do the same, if you drill exactly above the top left corner of the plastic housing over the steering column where it goes into the firewall, you won't hit anything.

Just be careful not to go too far through with the drill bit because you may hit the backside of the brake booster. There's about 2" of clearance.
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Old Dec 3, 2006 | 06:14 PM
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I used this thread to pull a 0/1 gauge wire through today. The factory grommet that is referenced is a little hard to see and I wouldn't consider it a 2 minute job at all. I took all the panels off the engine, including the top of the engine which gave me a little more room. There is also a wire harness that is on a metal clip right in front of the factory grommet. If you unclip it, it makes it easier to get to. Then I used a long flat head and worked at the plug for a couple of minutes and finally got it off.

The 0/1 gauge works fine through that hole. I pushed it through the hole, it pushed the insulation out of the way and went down. After a couple of attempts, I saw it under the center console and was able to pull the rest through.

The hardest part was running it over the top fo the pedals. The gauge is so large that if it fell down between the gas pedal cable and where it connects, it would be bad (i.e. the throttle would stick). I spent about 30 minutes fighting with zip ties and zip tied it to the factory wire harness running above the pedals. I have big hands so it was a pain in the ass. I ran it along side the stock harness all the way to the fuse box. Then I ran it down the right side of the fuse box just under where it clips in. It was a tight squeeze to put the panel back on but I managed.

It barely fit under the door runners too. I mean barely. A 4 gauge would have done much better under the door runners because there would have been enough room to slide it next to the factory harness. I had to run it sorta on top.

I haven't completed the run yet because I want to take the rear seat out to install the speakers and I am going to wait until then to run the rest 0/1 to the trunk. For now it just sits on the rear seats floor. Its not hooked up to the battery yet.

I hope this helps anyone that was considering 0/1 gauge. It is doable, just not as easy as a 4gauge.
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