Rust
Racer
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 433
Likes: 1
From: SE Wash. State
Well, you could paint your rotors, and that would stop it.
This is NORMAL. If you live in a humid area, this is going to happen. (Not necessarily to this degree each time, but if the car sits, and the rotors have water on them, they will get surface rust). If you wash your car, this is going to happen. Rotors are uncoated steel. This happens to ALL cars and trucks with disk brakes. Where it matters, the rust comes off the first times you brake when driving the car.
This is NORMAL. If you live in a humid area, this is going to happen. (Not necessarily to this degree each time, but if the car sits, and the rotors have water on them, they will get surface rust). If you wash your car, this is going to happen. Rotors are uncoated steel. This happens to ALL cars and trucks with disk brakes. Where it matters, the rust comes off the first times you brake when driving the car.
Yeah I was talking to a mechanic whose been a friend of my dad's for a long long time and he told me that you could put new rotors on a car, and as long as there is some humidity in the air, they'd start rusting immediately.
This even happens on the S2000, and my old NSX-T.
The oxygen that keeps you alive is one of the most reactive elements in the universe - you are seeing it react with cast iron in one of its most common displays of O2's power.
You can buy cadmium or zinch dichromate treated rotors for just a few bucks more than Acura's - that is what I will do when the time comes. It eliminates this cosmetic issue, and that is all it is - cosmetic.
I always remove my wheels on a new car and apply some marine anti-seize to the wheel contact area with the hub - this reduces the oxidation and makes it easy to change a tire - no molecule exchange causing galling.
The oxygen that keeps you alive is one of the most reactive elements in the universe - you are seeing it react with cast iron in one of its most common displays of O2's power.
You can buy cadmium or zinch dichromate treated rotors for just a few bucks more than Acura's - that is what I will do when the time comes. It eliminates this cosmetic issue, and that is all it is - cosmetic.
I always remove my wheels on a new car and apply some marine anti-seize to the wheel contact area with the hub - this reduces the oxidation and makes it easy to change a tire - no molecule exchange causing galling.
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nothing you can do about the rotor face, that rust should come off anyways with a few miles of braking.... as for where the wheel meets the rotor, you can paint that (with high temp paint, or caliper paint) and it should be free of rust then
I had the same problem so I painted them with Engine enamel. I first sprayed the hubs with rust converter (converts rust to primer) and wiped them clean.
http://img54.exs.cx/img54/2295/closeup1.jpg
http://img54.exs.cx/img54/2295/closeup1.jpg
When I bought my 2000 SVT Contour, I had already done quite a bit of research on the car and its components. Interesting things were done by the SVT guys at Ford for this little baby. One of the things they did was to treat the rotors with some kind of stuff that largely eliminated this problem. And by God it worked!
Now as for my TL, the rear rotors "appear" to have something on them as they never show any surface rust whereas my fronts do. Good example is after I wash my TL, the front rotors are glazed with a little rust while the rears are just as silver as can be.
Here's a good tip for y'all. After washing your car, drive it for about a 1/4 mile, dragging the brakes lightly a little as you drive. This will remove the rust sheen before you park it for the night.
Now as for my TL, the rear rotors "appear" to have something on them as they never show any surface rust whereas my fronts do. Good example is after I wash my TL, the front rotors are glazed with a little rust while the rears are just as silver as can be.
Here's a good tip for y'all. After washing your car, drive it for about a 1/4 mile, dragging the brakes lightly a little as you drive. This will remove the rust sheen before you park it for the night.
Originally Posted by Pro Street
"no molecule exchange causing galling"
Please explain "galling"
Please explain "galling"
But what I meant was galvanic corrosion as it is more commonly known - remember your high school chemistry/physics? Dissimilar metals can actually exchange atoms, so they form a molecular "corrosion" that can make it hard to separate the wheel (aluminum) from the hub (metal). I have once or twice in my life helped a roadside warrior scratching his head as he yanked on a flat tire's wheel, with all the nuts removed. The trick (from my youth when i worked for an ace mechanic for a pit crew at Lime Rock, CT) is to slightly loosen the lugnuts, drive forward about 5MPH, and jam on the brakes - the small movement of the wheel will break the bond with the hub. Saved you a tow!

He also had a huge bottle of aspirin, grease covered, and it smelled of acid - not for headaches - care to guess what for?
http://www.engineersedge.com/corrosi..._corrosion.htm
[QUOTE=Road Rage]Well, galling (in metals) is frictional rub at the micro-tribologic level that temps get high enough to melt the high points, and the parts can become difficult to separate.
But what I meant was galvanic corrosion as it is more commonly known - remember your high school chemistry/physics?
Well,,,,,, No..... That was over 23 years ago....
But what I meant was galvanic corrosion as it is more commonly known - remember your high school chemistry/physics?
Well,,,,,, No..... That was over 23 years ago....
Originally Posted by donkeykang
Oh I know it's normal, I just want to know how to take it out and clean it and treat it so it doesn't happen again. It looks quite ugly afterall haha
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