Clutch Pedal Assembly Replacement 07 TL Type S

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Sep 27, 2022 | 07:50 PM
  #1  
Just thought I’d share my experience so far just in case it helps anyone. I’ve been having clutch engagement issues. Replaced the clutch, flywheel, CMC, and CSC. After about 60 miles of driving everything suddenly changed. Literally, I was at a stoplight and it all happened at once. I was getting locked out of gear, notchy shifting, etc. So I think the CMC rod needs to be adjusted. Thought it just came out of adjustment since I found locknut loose. I kept adjusting this rod because shifting would start to get rough again and every time I did, shifting would return to normal.

The other day, the rod fell out of the bracket because I ran out of adjustment on the rod. Every time I get it to a point where I can shift, it’s at the very end of the rod. I knew this wasn’t right so I think…maybe there’s air in the line from a faulty hydraulic part. So I bleed the system yesterday and today. No air (except what I let in accidentally by letting the reservoir get too low. Had to bleed it for awhile to make sure it was out. As I’m getting ready to test drive, the pedal comes out of adjustment again. Except this time it’s different.

To make an already long story short, I found my clutch pedal bracket is broken. I believe the broken bracket was causing the pedal to not completely depress the CMC in thus creating my shifting issues. I believe this has been my issue this entire time and I just never noticed it was broken until today.

I wanted to post this because I didn’t see any threads on it. I found one video on YouTube with someone explaining this problem on their 8th gen Si but that was pretty much it.

Acura doesn’t sell the bracket separately. I had to buy a whole new pedal assembly. I will post an update once I get that installed. Should be Thursday night. It’s about $200.

Part number just in case: 46910SEPA01

If you look at the top of the picture you’ll see the broken part. Initially, that return spring came out on one side. So I was trying to put it back in when someone gently pointed out to me the bracket was broken…which is probably why it came out.
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Sep 29, 2022 | 09:11 PM
  #2  
Finished the job tonight.

This is the good one. Note the left side of it in comparison to the broken one. It was worse then I realized until I took it out.

Just in case anyone is wondering. It wasn’t super hard, but you will 100% need a swivel socket or swivel adapter. I don’t have power tools so it took me a long time to get the bolt on the fuse box side out. Very awkward positioning of your body is needed.

There’s just one 12mm bolt at the top of the assembly and then the two 12mm bolts on the clutch master cylinder. I also took extra time to measure clutch pedal height and freeplay to make sure everything was the way it’s supposed to be.
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Oct 3, 2022 | 09:38 AM
  #3  
Yikess, looks like the plate failed around the bottom spot-weld?
Got any head-on pics?
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Oct 3, 2022 | 09:43 AM
  #4  
Quote: Yikess, looks like the plate failed around the bottom spot-weld?
Got any head-on pics?
I didn't take any but I still have the pedal. I'll post one a little later. It was dark and I was tired so I was trying to just get the pedal in so I could drive it. It was cracked on one side and that spot weld did fail. The whole pedal was basically moving when pressing down and it wasn't pushing the CMC enough. It feels so different now that I'm learning how to drive the car again lol. I have literally never heard of this happening, but my friend did say it happened to him on his accord.
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