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Clutch pedal getting stuck in part way after consecutive quick shifts

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Clutch pedal getting stuck in part way after consecutive quick shifts

Old 02-08-2018, 06:54 PM
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Exclamation Clutch pedal getting stuck in part way after consecutive quick shifts

I own an '07 6MT Type S with just under 122k miles. Lately after going through a couple quick shifts to speed up in traffic or an on ramp or something, I've been noticing the clutch pedal getting stuck part of the way in to where my next shift feels like I'm pushing the clutch a lot shorter distance to the floor. I last had the clutch replaced at 68k miles. A couple months ago I noticed a bit of shudder right at the end of letting out the clutch to engage the next gear and eventually had my mechanic (who only works on Honda's and Acura's and for nearly 30 years now) drive it after a few weeks of it and he said the clutch felt great. I have since made sure I take make foot completely off the pedal (vs even resting it on there slightly in between shifts) and have not noticed the shudder since but am noticing this issue now. My mechanic said he has never heard of that before and eventually I'll probably have him look at it. Any input or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!
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Old 02-08-2018, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by TL-evateYourRide View Post
I own an '07 6MT Type S with just under 122k miles. Lately after going through a couple quick shifts to speed up in traffic or an on ramp or something, I've been noticing the clutch pedal getting stuck part of the way in to where my next shift feels like I'm pushing the clutch a lot shorter distance to the floor. I last had the clutch replaced at 68k miles. A couple months ago I noticed a bit of shudder right at the end of letting out the clutch to engage the next gear and eventually had my mechanic (who only works on Honda's and Acura's and for nearly 30 years now) drive it after a few weeks of it and he said the clutch felt great. I have since made sure I take make foot completely off the pedal (vs even resting it on there slightly in between shifts) and have not noticed the shudder since but am noticing this issue now. My mechanic said he has never heard of that before and eventually I'll probably have him look at it. Any input or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!
did you replace the flywheel along with the clutch at 68k?
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Old 02-08-2018, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by vpasla1 View Post
did you replace the flywheel along with the clutch at 68k?
I'm not sure about flywheel, the invoice show a "clutch set" and labor for clutch disc, pressure plate, release and fluid bearings were replaced.
Also, I just popped the hood to check the alternator because battery light came on, and I'm pretty sure the alternator is bad after checking. However, there is an odd smell coming from the engine bay, reminds me of the smell of an overheating car but all fluids are good as is the temp reading on the temperature gauge of the car so I'm guessing it's something to do with the clutch as well.
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Old 02-08-2018, 10:46 PM
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I too am having an identical clutch pedal issue and just like you it's only after quick, aggressive shifts. For instance I do a spirited 2-3 pull, then leisurely shift 3-4 and I lose about half the pedal travel on BOTH engagement and disengagement. 131K miles on mine, original clutch.

My brother was the previous owner of mine for 100K miles and right before I bought it he was toying with the idea of deleting the clutch delay valve on the slave cylinder. We wound up having a major PITA with I think it was a circlip, so we didn't wind up doing it, but I'm almost positive this is my (and your) problem.
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Old 02-08-2018, 11:21 PM
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Do y'all still have all the hydraulic fluid left in the reservoir? Or is it leaking? Is the fluid old?

It could also be a slave or master cylinder issue.

Worst case scenario....the clutch splines and release bearing were lubed with the wrong grease and/or the release bearing guide is worn out --if the car has a removable one, you're supposed to change it when you do the clutch.
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Old 02-08-2018, 11:51 PM
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I had my Clutch master cylinder (CMC) return spring break. It would sometimes go to the floor and have a shorten travel, I replaced the CMC and dissected the old one and sure enough the spring was broken in multiple places. Maybe it's this? I would definitely check for leaks like Brolando suggests.

Also the CMC on the TL has a check valve, on top of the Slave cylinder check valve. There are 2 check valve in the clutch system
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Old 12-03-2018, 05:10 PM
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Exact same thing just started to happen to me... Bought the car 1.5 years ago and went through it then doing a lot of maintenance including Brake/Clutch Hyd Fluid change
- Bled the system and actually had to take the slave cylinder out to remove the piston as the bleeder valve area was so clogged (nearly black fluid) had to manually use a small drill to get the gunk out. cylinder looked pretty good where the piston seal was
- Need to check fluid level as perhaps it was briefly losing fluid - seal could be going bad
- Thought maybe something was up with the delay valve

6 speed had a good point there with the return spring. THough in my experience, the pressure plate tends to return it back to at least the regular pressure point.

TL-evateYourRide or twokexlv6coupe - did you ever fix yours?
Thanks.
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Old 12-03-2018, 11:38 PM
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I believe it is the self adjusting clutch mechanism causing this. It doesn't mean the clutch needs changing but after all those miles it's at a point where it behaves that way.
Once you do a high rpm shift (6-7k), for whatever reason the next time you push the clutch in it will be halfway or so than nornal. But when you release it, the engagement of the next gear will be almost instant. This definitely helps in 5th and 6th gears on the highway where you don't want to ride the clutch. You can get rid of it by pumping the clutch or double clutching but I would just note it in my head and time the rev match so I can drop the clutch faster. The clutch delay valve seems to make it worse but you can mitigate that by dropping the clutch faster but I still recommend removing the delay valve on your next clutch job.
A New clutch does indeed get rid of that sympton but if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
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Old 12-06-2018, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by racerock View Post
Exact same thing just started to happen to me... Bought the car 1.5 years ago and went through it then doing a lot of maintenance including Brake/Clutch Hyd Fluid change
- Bled the system and actually had to take the slave cylinder out to remove the piston as the bleeder valve area was so clogged (nearly black fluid) had to manually use a small drill to get the gunk out. cylinder looked pretty good where the piston seal was
- Need to check fluid level as perhaps it was briefly losing fluid - seal could be going bad
- Thought maybe something was up with the delay valve

6 speed had a good point there with the return spring. THough in my experience, the pressure plate tends to return it back to at least the regular pressure point.

TL-evateYourRide or twokexlv6coupe - did you ever fix yours?
Thanks.
Originally Posted by WDPanda View Post
I believe it is the self adjusting clutch mechanism causing this. It doesn't mean the clutch needs changing but after all those miles it's at a point where it behaves that way.
Once you do a high rpm shift (6-7k), for whatever reason the next time you push the clutch in it will be halfway or so than nornal. But when you release it, the engagement of the next gear will be almost instant. This definitely helps in 5th and 6th gears on the highway where you don't want to ride the clutch. You can get rid of it by pumping the clutch or double clutching but I would just note it in my head and time the rev match so I can drop the clutch faster. The clutch delay valve seems to make it worse but you can mitigate that by dropping the clutch faster but I still recommend removing the delay valve on your next clutch job.
A New clutch does indeed get rid of that sympton but if it ain't broke, don't fix it.


Yup I did inadvertently fix this issue. I had the engine and tranny out for a completely unrelated reason and before dropping it back in I decided to replace the clutch and flywheel with new LUK OEM units, since everything had 141K miles on them. Even tho there were zero signs of the clutch being on it's last legs. Now I can do quick 2-3 shifts, and have full pedal travel from 3-4. As Panda said, it must be something with the Self Adjusting Clutch.

And here's the kicker; I have a brand new master and slave (with the delay valve deleted) in boxes in my trunk, waiting to be installed. I'm still on the original master and slaves, with 146K on them.

I know it's the exact opposite answer racerock wanted to hear, but the good news is we know what causes it
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Old 12-07-2018, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by twokexlv6coupe View Post
Yup I did inadvertently fix this issue. I had the engine and tranny out for a completely unrelated reason and before dropping it back in I decided to replace the clutch and flywheel with new LUK OEM units, since everything had 141K miles on them. Even tho there were zero signs of the clutch being on it's last legs. Now I can do quick 2-3 shifts, and have full pedal travel from 3-4. As Panda said, it must be something with the Self Adjusting Clutch.
And here's the kicker; I have a brand new master and slave (with the delay valve deleted) in boxes in my trunk, waiting to be installed. I'm still on the original master and slaves, with 146K on them.
I know it's the exact opposite answer racerock wanted to hear, but the good news is we know what causes it
Thank you for the follow up. Get this:
178K Miles and it could be the original Flywheel, Clutch, Pressure Plate, M Cyl and Slave Cylinder...
- One owner had it until about 145K, seemed like all dealer maintained, Aspec installed at the dealer - Check in with the dealer no clutch change
- I have looked all over for evidence of bolt/bracket/wiring R&R to do the clutch and it all appears as from the factory.

Your input helps. I wonder if possibly the pressure plate is getting slow to retract and push the bearing/arm back - as you and Panda wrote - relating to the "Self Adjusting Clutch". I'll read into that in the service manual and Acurazine. I doubt it is losing some fluid through the seal, as normally on a clutch hydraulic system they just blow out and you have nothing - tow it or drive home w/o hydraulics...

I'll keep milking this until the spring or another vehicle is done. Planning on:
Flywheel, Clutch, Pressure Plate
Timing Belt/Water Pump
A few gasket replacements
Front Axles

Had a friend guess how many miles on this one and he thought 80K, it is that clean

Last edited by racerock; 12-07-2018 at 09:20 AM.
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Old 12-07-2018, 09:40 AM
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Just did more reading about the pressure plate self adjusting system - It must be that...
- I'll be taking it very easy on this ride for a while until I get my winter vehicle back on the road
- pulling Navigator body off its frame to do the brake lines. Doing tranny, power steering, head gasket and exhaust while it is easy to access... Big job. Including Core Support and rocker panel replacement due to classic rust...
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