Clutch mystery
#1
Clutch mystery
I have recently replaced my clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. However my clutch pedal still feels light. Under acceleration, the let out point for the pedal changes and the pedal feels stiffer. Sometimes after accelerating or coming off the interstate, I have to pump the pedal to get the car out of gear or into gear.
These symptoms occurred before replacing the master and slave cylinder as well. The clutch does not slip under acceleration or going up hills.
Does anyone have an idea on this or experience with this?
These symptoms occurred before replacing the master and slave cylinder as well. The clutch does not slip under acceleration or going up hills.
Does anyone have an idea on this or experience with this?
The following 2 users liked this post by 90foxnotch:
Acura TL Builder (06-06-2019),
Joseph Butts (05-24-2019)
#3
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my anecdotal experience says it's the clutch/pressure plate.
I bought my car at 31k miles at and 35k miles, it exhibited the same exact symptoms..
After a hard RPM run, the clutch pedal would get stiff and get stuck at the bottom of travel and I would have to pump the pedal to get it to unstick.
I tried the following; bleeding, removed slave cylinder check valve, etc. etc. nothing really worked
After driving it like that for some time and it being a new to me car, I wanted to rip it everywhere...and eventually, 5th and 6th gear started to slip.
I had a shop change the clutch and ever since then, it operates as it should
I bought my car at 31k miles at and 35k miles, it exhibited the same exact symptoms..
After a hard RPM run, the clutch pedal would get stiff and get stuck at the bottom of travel and I would have to pump the pedal to get it to unstick.
I tried the following; bleeding, removed slave cylinder check valve, etc. etc. nothing really worked
After driving it like that for some time and it being a new to me car, I wanted to rip it everywhere...and eventually, 5th and 6th gear started to slip.
I had a shop change the clutch and ever since then, it operates as it should
The following users liked this post:
Joseph Butts (05-24-2019)
#4
Burning Brakes
^Well the thing is he said that he just had the slave and master replaced, which means it needed to be bled and sometimes it is hard to get all air out. I guess a better question is why were those parts replaced? OP what symptoms were you having before the replacements
The following users liked this post:
Joseph Butts (05-24-2019)
#5
I had the floating let out point and some sticking of the pedal after merging or giving it the beans. Between my dad and I we figured it was the SC and MC. We replaced it and it felt fine for approximately 1k miles. We bled the system again last night and no air came out but the pedal stuck to the floor. I pulled it a little with my foot and it came back. Still might be some air hiding. This car also has 193k on it so I’m just hoping it’s not time for a clutch just yet. The car shifts fine under normal operation and we couldn’t get the clutch to slip or hear any noise from the clutch which is why we don’t assess the clutch is bad.
#6
Burning Brakes
Ahhhh well now I would have to agree with spaceman and assume it is your clutch then. It is a decent size job but parts are fairly inexpensive. I would buy a new Luk clutch and flywheel from Rockauto. Make sure to buy a new flywheel though.
The following users liked this post:
Joseph Butts (05-24-2019)
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#8
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^Well the thing is he said that he just had the slave and master replaced, which means it needed to be bled and sometimes it is hard to get all air out. I guess a better question is why were those parts replaced? OP what symptoms were you having before the replacements
I had the floating let out point and some sticking of the pedal after merging or giving it the beans. Between my dad and I we figured it was the SC and MC. We replaced it and it felt fine for approximately 1k miles. We bled the system again last night and no air came out but the pedal stuck to the floor. I pulled it a little with my foot and it came back. Still might be some air hiding. This car also has 193k on it so I’m just hoping it’s not time for a clutch just yet. The car shifts fine under normal operation and we couldn’t get the clutch to slip or hear any noise from the clutch which is why we don’t assess the clutch is bad.
yup, I tried everything under the sun short of replacing the MC and SC.
but it's anecdotal at best.
Last edited by justnspace; 05-24-2019 at 09:17 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Joseph Butts (05-24-2019)
#9
Enough anecdotal evidence becomes factual evidence..
The following 2 users liked this post by DMZ:
Joseph Butts (06-04-2019),
justnspace (05-31-2019)
#11
The following users liked this post:
Acura TL Builder (06-06-2019)
#12
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#13
Suzuka Master
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Clutch Case (#17) :
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/auto-p...utch-case-scat
Transmission Case (#22)
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/auto-p...sion-case-scat
#14
I had the same scenario as you. Replaced clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder with check valve delete and stainless steel clutch line. Made the symptoms slightly better. But it all went away after i got a new clutch/flywheel. I bought the luk clutch and flywheel from rockauto as well as an oem rear main seal from an online acura parts vendor
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