Good day folks. If you want the backstory, I gave it below. If you want to know the problem before you read further, here it is. Alarm goes off when I start the car. Not when I open the door, when I start the car. I can let it do it's thing for about 80 seconds and it quits. The car then operates as normal with no other issues. The alarm won't disarm if I get out, close the door then lock/unlock with the key. All door switches and the trunk switch show open on the display when open and show closed when closed. I took the front bumper off just to check the hood latch switch. It shows continuity when the switch is not depressed and shows no continuity when the switch is depressed. (Switch is open when the hood is closed, closed when the hood is open). Batteries in the key FOBs are not dead. I must mention that while I am testing, the inner driver door panel is removed and none of the window or other switches are connected. Here is the backstory:

About 6 years ago I bought an 07 Type S in Florida. I drove it about 200 miles home. Horrible ride, shook me to hades and back, find out it has two bent rims. I ordered the rims then life got in the way. The car ended up sitting in my back yard until last week. Well, I never opened the doors with the keys and it turns out that the battery was dead (of course) and neither key would work in the lock. Lucky for me, the passenger door was not locked the whole time it was sitting so I was able to get in. I didn't know what else to do but to take out the only door lock (passenger door) and take it to a locksmith who gladly explained the problem, told me what he did to fix it and told me to expect it to happen again because of Honda's crappy key design.

Putting the lock back in was a bit of a trick. There's a round, blue rotary switch on the inside of the door (right behind the window slide wouldn't you know) that has to mesh correctly to the back of the lock while you are installing the securing screw. I'm 95% sure that I got it reinstalled correctly. Lock works manually but the electric actuation does not work (I'm assuming because the interior panel is off and none of the switches are hooked up). When replacing the battery, of course the alarm went off. I couldn't get it to disarm so all I could do was to disconnect the battery. I did some research and found out which fuse to pull to kill the horn and drove the car in to my shop where I reconnected the battery and let the alarm run until it timed out and shut off. Further research showed that I probably have a faulty door or hood/trunk switch. As I said in the description of the problem, the trunk showed open and closed on the display. I took the bumper cover off to access the hood latch switch, which also checked out OK as described above.

I really don't know what to check next. This is a very pretty car with a few fixable issues that I got for a steal, but obviously I can't drive it with the horn disconnected or having the alarm go off every time I start it up. This forum has helped me fix problems on all 4 of my TLs and my CL and I'm hoping the same will be true again. Please contribute if you can help. I'm am a skilled mechanic with my own personal tools to include a lift with about 25 years experience gathered on the long road of hard knocks. Please keep this in mind...I'm not likely to miss the simple stuff, but I am not infallable, being human and all!

Thanks folks! When I frequented this site years ago there were some great people here. I'm sure there still are...maybe not the same ones but nonetheless! Cheers!

 

try unlocking the car with the driver door cylinder and it should solve the issue...

 

Not to be rude, but with all the detailed information I gave in my post, you don't think I tried unlocking the door with the driver's side lock cylinder...before anything else? There aren't going to be any "pat" answers to this situation dude. I WISH it were going to be that easy.

 

Hard to diagnose problems like these over the Internet despite the very in-depth post, it could be some crappy aftermarket alarm that the previous owner installed/uninstalled prior to selling, it could be the immobolizer, Have you tried taking it to the locksmith to try and re-pair all sets of keys? Does the car still run despite the alarm blaring away or it won't it won't start and the alarm goes off while cranking?

 

I don't know what's up with the quotes you posted with your reply. I get the same thing with many of the boards I visit. I ask a question providing detailed information (that should suggest that I have indeed tried all the normal simple stuff) and I get replies like "have you made sure you plugged it in?". You know what I mean. I'm not ungrateful, just a bit peeved that my intelligence is being insulted. Maybe you get my point...maybe not. I would have thought that a moderator would have known better than to reply as they did. I'm not trying to be ungrateful or disrespectful and I've seen many of the posts...Blah, blah, blah is wrong with my car, tell me how to fix it. Real winners, I get it, but...oh well.

As for your reply, first, thank you. Second, I realize that these types of issues are hard to diagnose over the internet, actually hard to diagnose in person. I just figured that folks who love these cars (as I do) who frequent this board might indeed have come across a situation identical to mine and might be able to help out, and if you didn't know the answer, you just move on. I realize that after this post I probably won't get any help at all, which is fine. I figured I'd have to go it alone anyway. I know I sound like an arrogant, pompous ass...I probably am, but I don't intend to be. But the moderator who answered my post first...really? In my opinion they should have known better. I used to be fairly active on this board and have helped at least a few people out with what I know. When I get this issue fixed, (I don't know when but I WILL fix it) I'll be sure to come back here and update this post, hoping that I might help somebody else out.

Again, thanks for your reply...

 

I think you're reading way too much into his initial reply. Additionally, unless my reading comprehension escapes me, never in your Original Post did you mention trying this.. I understand your frustration but "YOU DIDN'T THINK I TRIED THAT" is not a respectful response either, how the heck do we know what you did or did not try if you didn't tell us. Cutting the key to fix the manual lock is one piece, now ensuring the keys are properly paired with the ECU is another. A reputable locksmith should be able to perform both for you.

 

We are only trying to help you my guy. Deducing what it may be starting from simple things is a good way to help you.

On this forum, many including myself would drone on about an intricate issue, which people assuming I checked the simple and obvious things, asked more in depth questions. Then I looked silly for not catching an easy problem.

We are all here to help.

 

This is very obviously an electrical problem that will never be diagnosed here. The car sat for 6 years in a humid climate. C'mon man.

 

if the rear door panel are removed from rear doors, The door switch/plunger mechanism WILL NOT press plunger in the door jam! It will drain your battery overnight. Ask me how I know.. haha it needs the panel installed. And closing the door Without the door panel on still WILL NOT press that door plunger in the door jam.. So it will look open without the door panel installed even if the door is closed..

And you need to have all the power window and door lock connectors plugged into the switches.

 

Many folks leave out crucial information and it's best to start from the top. FYI you posted incorrectly as there is no passenger door lock that you can take to the locksmith. Glovebox has different pins than ignition and driver door. Same with the rear trunk access inside.

Good luck on the search with that attitude, my time to bow out.

 

FYI those quotes are his signature, not directed at you at all, but related to very funny threads that have happened here.