ben07tl

Ok so i'm new to acurazine and to the to the tl, i recently purchased a 2007 TL type s 6 speed with 80k on it. I can tell the car my have had a past life due to the huge stereo i ripped out of when i got it and the fact of having to replace the factory navi. No problem i got a good deal the car and don't mind a little project. On to my problem. The clutch began to stick to the floor in between shifts and be very very firm after a high rpm drive. Agfter many nights of searching on the forums i seemed to believe that the clutch was the culprit, so i ordered a new one with all bearing from acura and went ahead and got a new flywheel while i was at it. Now I have very little time to work on this car myself so i had a reputable shop that i have trusted with my other vehicles in the past replace the clutch. Shortly after picking the car up, which drove great, the clutch began to act up again, sticking to the floor after a shift at abour 3000 rpms. At that point i had merged onto the highway and just kinda shrugged it off, but when i went to get off the highway i couldn't get the clutch to depress at all, it was like pushing against a wall. I can't seem to find much information on this problem and the car is back down again as i just dropped it off, the shop wasn't sure what the problem was and said they were going to do some research. Any ideas on what would be causing this problem? The new unti has around 30 miles on it.

Thanks
Ben

Vlad_Type_S

iTrader: (3)

Congrats on the TL-S and welcome to AZ! Sucks to hear that you're already having problems!

Well... you replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and flywheel so those can't be the problem assuming they were installed properly. However, a quick Google search told me that a throwout bearing failure may cause the symptoms you've described. Here is a link to the hydraulic clutch system in your car as well as pricing for all the parts. http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

Based on this, here are some various scenarios:

1) The slave cylinder is defective. If the cylinder got stuck, you would feel as if you were pressing against a wall.
2) The master cylinder is defective. Same thing: if it's stuck, you wouldn't be able to depress the clutch.
3) An issue with the pedal itself. They need to be adjusted after a clutch is installed. Maybe this wasn't done properly? Acura sets their own specs on the clutch pedal.
4) Other: debris in clutch line, old fluid, or even damaged lines. These are unlikely since they almost certainly changed the fluid when installing the new clutch.

If it ends up being any these, it sounds like you would be able to do it yourself: all of these components are easily accessible in the engine bay (except the pedal of course).

Good luck Ben, let us know how it turns out!

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

T/O bearing would have no effect on the issue, but have seen mechanical systems exhibit the same problem when the PP failed, but in the TL with a new clutch assembly and hydraulic system, I'd check the hydraulic system.

DefkevsAU7

Hi Ben, I'm currently dealing with the same crap as you. I took it to the dealer to have it looked at yesterday and their response was "it's just pressure in the vacuum and it's normal"??? Does that make sense to anyone? I bought my 08 tls with 95000kms on it and started experiencing this around 115000. If it was normal, you'd think it would have been doing this from the get go and not 20K's later. I just want my clutch to the way it was...I love keeping those G35's in check! Are you still having issues with yours? I'm picking up my car today and will have a face to face on what the hell they're talking about.

m&b6speed

Same issues happening on my wifes 06 tl 6-speed. stop and go traffic where you're on and off the clutch builds up pressure in the pedal and makes it almost impossible to drive. Same things happens if you drive it a little hard inbetween shifts.

Had a few friends who are knowledgeable about cars say it was probably the slave cylinder. Anyone way to pin point that or rule it out?

Vlad_Type_S

iTrader: (3)

Well so far everyone seems to think that it's an issue with something in the hydraulic system. Try the following:

1) Check the entire system for any leaks. All hoses and seals on all of the hydraulic parts.

2) Bleed the hydraulic system.

3) Ensure that the clutch pedal is not damaged and is greased up properly on all moving/friction parts.

4) Troubleshoot the master cylinder. Depress the clutch pedal while someone watches the clutch fluid reservoir level. If the level rises while the clutch pedal is being depressed, the clutch master cylinder is bad and should be rebuilt or replaced. If it does not, then the problem may be the slave cylinder.

DefkevsAU7

Have you taken yours in yet? They say they couldn't recreate the problem on their road test and checked fluid levels and for leaks and nothing. They said if it continues then come back...???...so I should of went there the second time first?

DefkevsAU7

I'm thinking pressure plate...everything above I have done and works great for a day or so then back to the same old.

m&b6speed

I won't take it to the dealer. If I can figure out what is causing it I'll fix it myself or go to a local shop. I'm going to try Vlad's steps and see what I find.

DefkevsAU7

I don't blame you for not taking it there...I just decided to do it the hard way. Drive it for about 60 miles or when you start to lose pressure again (hopefully not) before you post again...Thanks.

Vlad_Type_S

iTrader: (3)

Ah I should clarify. OP said they got a new clutch kit and flywheel, so I am focusing in on the hydraulic system for that reason. If you're still on the original clutch kit, it's quite possible for a defective PP to cause this issue. It's easiest to check the hydraulics first anyway before spending big bucks installing a clutch, so I would still start there. It sounds like you already have, so I would say it's time to either pay for a diagnosis ($80 over by me), or just get the thing replaced. Just make sure you very highly scrutinized the hydraulic system before dropping over $1k on a clutch kit that might not even be the problem.

If you do end up taking it to a dealer, there is no shame in asking them to physically show you the problem when they claim they've figured it out. It helps me feel more comfortable that they aren't ripping me off. And don't forget to haggle...

DefkevsAU7

Honestly...I'm at that point. I already bought the LUK clutch kit ($260 on ebay) but waited to see what Honda had to say first before I take that route...I was thinking hydraulic system too but obviously (in my situation) it's not. I just want to see how it plays out with him first.

SurfingScotty

Guys, having a similar issue:

6 weeks ago was driving and the pressure was building in the clutch line, requiring a lot of force to depress the clutch. After about 10-15 gear changes, the pressure suddenly and sharply released. Has driven like new for the past 6 weeks.

Yesterday, a lot of play in the top half of the pedal. This AM, started the car in 1st, clutch pressed to the floor and the car pulled forward. Started the car in neutral and tried to put into 1st...no go.

Clutch, throw out bearing, and new flywheel installed about 18 months ago. New slave purchased and installed after check valve delete mod done.

Here's a pic of the slave, no leaks detected. reservoir is full with 18 month old fluid.

Suggestions???

Vlad_Type_S

iTrader: (3)

Clutch pedal adjustment?

Could be the MC as well.

Also, (probably not after 18 months) maybe the pressure plate was installed incorrectly. I read on another thread that if the springs aren't properly set, you would see symptoms like the ones you describe.

Good luck dude.

SurfingScotty

It was the clutch master cylinder. Drives like new again.

Vlad_Type_S

iTrader: (3)

Sweet dude. Thanks for closing the loop! It might help someone out in the future.

chad1989

Hi all. I hope to re open this issue because I have had my clutch master cylinder replaced and I still have issues with my clutch pedal becoming stiff.
Any other suggestions would be great!

Vlad_Type_S

iTrader: (3)

Stiff as in it doesn't return to the top? Or it's really difficult to depress?

chad1989

reply to Vlad_Type_S

it does both...but only when i get aggressive with the car. I run the engine through the gears up between 5K-6K RPM and the clutch pedal becomes really stiff and seems to not return to the "fully up" position. If I pump the clutch pedal 6-8 times right after it goes back to normal. I have had the clutch master cylinder replaced and it did NOT fix the issue. I had an Acura tech ride wit me and drive the car and he could not figure out the issue. This is very aggravating and I wish there was a solution

Vlad_Type_S

iTrader: (3)

I would first verify that the slave cylinder is working normally and that everything on the pedal (springs, stops, etc.) is copacetic. It could be an issue with the pressure plate/throwout bearing. How many miles on the clock? Previous owners? Any other signs of careless driving?