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Old 07-16-2012, 12:14 AM
  #5481  
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No.. Let's just say what happens in Vegas sometimes gets posted in Azine.




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Old 07-16-2012, 12:29 AM
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:33 AM
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this page(40post)has almost only been you and I

in the last 30 posts, all but 4 are us
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:43 AM
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I finally did it, 6 1/2 years later.
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Old 07-16-2012, 06:27 AM
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Another pending heatwave in the Boston area
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Old 07-16-2012, 07:04 AM
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I'm in zombie mode today.. hope you guys had a good weekend!
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Old 07-16-2012, 08:12 AM
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yay!! 300 is ALIVEEEEE!!!
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Old 07-16-2012, 10:20 AM
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Pics or you lie
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:05 PM
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time to sell it quick
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:24 PM
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looks exactly like it did when it was being pulled but here you go! lol







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Old 07-16-2012, 12:28 PM
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So did it work out to be the money maker you thought it would, or are you gonna keep it for a while now?
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:34 PM
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better... .didnt need to put any money into it almost at all... got to get a transmission pan gasket, oil, transmission ATF+4, coolant and donezo... 149.35 plus 2350 for the motor and 500 for the car. Sitting right at 3k and i can sell it for 10k+. all i need to do it love on the interior, paint, and wheels and this baby will be good to go!
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:38 PM
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holy hell!!
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:38 PM
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sick, wanna help me flip my truck?! lol
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:38 PM
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lol i got lucky...what can i say
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:38 PM
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whats wrong with it?
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:44 PM
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i'm not sure.. it runs fine but idles like shit. i've changed the fuel filter, air filter, plugs, and the by pass valve on the intake. Replacing the valve got rid of the code it was throwing on the machine at auto zone. it idled good for about a day, but once i got stuck in traffic it got worse.
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by TheLowLife
i'm not sure.. it runs fine but idles like shit. i've changed the fuel filter, air filter, plugs, and the by pass valve on the intake. Replacing the valve got rid of the code it was throwing on the machine at auto zone. it idled good for about a day, but once i got stuck in traffic it got worse.
What code did it throw?

Originally Posted by TheLowLife
sick, wanna help me flip my truck?! lol
If you do this literally, I'll help
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:27 PM
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hahah might be fun... but no really let us know what the code is and ill see what i can dig up. also year make and model will help
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:29 PM
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I'll flip your truck as well.
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:32 PM
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Check for vacuum leak, valve clearances and throttle cable adjustment. Is the idle rpm within spec?
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:53 PM
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vacuum leak is the most likely cause of rough/sparatic idle. if its a ford 4.0 it could be the intake manifold gasket. i had an explorer with sparatic idle and it would only do it when the engine was cold. Turned out the intake manifold gasket wouldnt seal cold, but as soon as it warmed up and the gasket expanded, it ran fine. im sure other ford motors had the same problem.
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:01 PM
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it's a 98 f150 4.2 v6 - the code was "Idle Air Cntrl Overspeed Error"
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:02 PM
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I noticed the other day there is a slight hiss when the hood is popped. I'm thinking it may be a pulley or belt.. if not, there has to be a leak somewhere. I'm not sure how to trace down the sound with the engine running.
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:03 PM
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thats the exact code mine threw for that explorer
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Sick TLS
vacuum leak is the most likely cause of rough/sparatic idle. if its a ford 4.0 it could be the intake manifold gasket. i had an explorer with sparatic idle and it would only do it when the engine was cold. Turned out the intake manifold gasket wouldnt seal cold, but as soon as it warmed up and the gasket expanded, it ran fine. im sure other ford motors had the same problem.


Fucking 4.0 / 4.2 V6
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by TheLowLife
I noticed the other day there is a slight hiss when the hood is popped. I'm thinking it may be a pulley or belt.. if not, there has to be a leak somewhere. I'm not sure how to trace down the sound with the engine running.
hiss is going to absolutely be a vacuum leak. I would put money on a hole in the intake manifold gasket. You have the plastic upper plenum?
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:04 PM
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You can take a long rubber tube (not graphite) and stick one end in your ear and the other end around the manifold.. you should be able to hear the leak. Or soapy water. Or screw all that and get new gaskets.
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:05 PM
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i thought mine was the problem with the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. turned out it was small cracks in the upper plenum, i was able to repair, and a bad intake gasket
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:05 PM
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yea it is weird. sometimes is idles descent, others it can't keep itself cranked. before i changed the valve, when i would get in the gas from idle, it would bog down. now, it picks up like it should, just doesn't idle.
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:06 PM
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intake manifold gasket or manifold itself. Theyre plastic and dont cost much. like i said, id put money on it lol

edit: maybe ill earn that beer back that i owe you
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:07 PM
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my dad bought the truck brand new in 98.. he just wanted something to drive around town. i dunno why he chose such a pussy size motor.. but it was given to me for free a couple years ago. i'd like to get it running and use it as my DD to keep miles off the TL.
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:07 PM
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how in depth would it be to change that gasket?

i may have to fedex you a 6pack lol
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:13 PM
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oh, i also need to replace the heater core.. but f that noise. i don't think i should mess with taking out the airbag..
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:17 PM
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hahahaahahahaah let me guess... the blend door actuator broke?
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:19 PM
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taking out the airbag is cake as long as you disconnect the battery first. No big deal.

As far as the intake manifold is concerned, took me about an hour to take it apart and get to everything and then like 30 minutes to get it back together. doesnt take too long at all. The hardest part is trying to get to the back allen bolts that hold the intake manifold on with any kind of tool. its such a tight and bad angle that its hard to get down in there with anything including a universal joint. but its absolutely do-able.
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:19 PM
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i dunno what the hell that is.. i just know that one day i was trying to run the defrost.. came out after work to a wet green tinted windshield.
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Sick TLS
taking out the airbag is cake as long as you disconnect the battery first. No big deal.

As far as the intake manifold is concerned, took me about an hour to take it apart and get to everything and then like 30 minutes to get it back together. doesnt take too long at all. The hardest part is trying to get to the back allen bolts that hold the intake manifold on with any kind of tool. its such a tight and bad angle that its hard to get down in there with anything including a universal joint. but its absolutely do-able.
all of this coming from a man who can do a motor swap..
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:23 PM
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dont underestimate yourself man. i learned by just tearing shit apart and piecing it back together. zip lock bags are a must though. Every piece you take off, put them in a bag and label them!!! i skipped that step with the 300 and it took me twice as long to get the motor back in lol.

green wet tinted windshield... wow. coolant got into the blower motor from the heater core lol would hate to see that
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:36 PM
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Fuck yes.. zip lock bags, sharpie and pics if you can, even though it takes twice as long by documenting it.

You might think your mind is sharp enough to remember where every nut bolt and wire went.. until you come to a point where you say fuck!!!!!.. and end up tear it down again for something simple you forgot to replace.
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